Francatelli Recipes for Removes, Chapter 7
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Francatelli Recipes for Removes — This page gives you the entire contents of the Seventh Chapter: Removes in General from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
For the unfamiliar, removes are typically the main meat part of the main course, typically large dishes with garnishes that are palced at the top or bottom end of a dinner table for carving or serving (or which, in Victorian times, might be presented and served on a side-table).
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
CHAPTER VII.
No. 381.—ROAST SIRLOIN OF BEEF.
A piece of sirloin of beef, in order to have any chance of perfection when cooked, should not weigh less than sixteen pounds ; it will take about two hours and a half to roast it, before a good fire : it must be kept at a distance of eighteen inches from the grate. Baste frequently, with the fat placed in the dripping-pan ; and a quarter of an hour before it is done, shake a little salt and some flour all over it ; and when it is removed from the spit, and placed upon its dish, pour over some good gravy, or hot water and a little brown colouring ; serve separately, some scraped horseradish, or else some horseradish sauce, No. 78 ; and in a separate dish, a piece of Yorkshire pudding, No. 298.
No. 382.—ROAST RIBS OF BEEF.
A piece of ribs of beef intended for roasting should consist of not less than three or four ribs ; the chine bone and also the upper part of the rib-bones should be removed by sawing them off ; the flap-ends fastened under neatly with wooden skewers, and equally balanced on the spit. The ribs of beef should then be roasted in much the same manner as indicated for the treatment of sirloin of beef.
No. 383.—BOILED ROUND OF BEEF.
A round of beef being a large joint, it necessarily follows that it is seldom dressed in small families, where it would be considered an extravagance ; although, when due regard is had to practical economy, by using thriftiness and care in turning to account the remains of this or any other large joint, by referring to the almost innumerable forms of made-dishes contained in this work, the amount of extravagance incurred becomes very sensibly diminished ; and, as moreover it is a fact, that a small round out from a well-fed Scot, or a Durham ox is, occasionally, a most desirable thing, it is essential that it should be well dressed : pray remember, that this requires great care. Procure a round of beef well furnished with rich delicate-looking fat; take out the kernels, and salt it in the usual manner : that is, with clean, cold hands rub in and all over it about four pounds of salt, turning it over in the brine, and rubbing it well with the salt every morning for about ten days : by this time, the round of beef will be ready for use. Next, after removing the round from the brine, fold it into shape by pulling the flap-piece close to the buttock; well fasten it with skewers, and in order to maintain it in proper shape while it is boiling, bind it neatly and tightly all round with a piece of tape called webbing, put it on in a sufficiently large pot in cold water, bearing in mind that it must never be allowed to boil fast, as that always spoils the best salt meat, by rendering it hard and stringy : when the round has boiled very gently for about five hours (according to the weight), take it up, trim away the soiled parts of the fat, stick in four silver skewers to keep it in shape, cut off the first slice, garnish it round the base with well-shaped boiled carrots and parsnips; pour some of its liquor coloured with a little browning over it, and serve a suet pudding, No. 299, or dumpling and summer cabbages in separate dishes. A sauce-boat filled with sauce piquante would prove rather a pleasant accompaniment to this brave old English solidity.
No. 384.—BOILED AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.
Salt the aitch-bone, and boil it with care as directed for the round; and garnish it in the same manner. All other joints of salt beef are to be treated similarly.
No. 385.—BOLLED THIN FLANK OF BEEF.
Take a piece of thin flank, weighing about eight pounds,—it should be cut as nearly square as posse; let it be cured in the same manner as pressed beef, No. 393, for three days only ; it is then to be removed from the brine, washed and wiped dry, and spread out square and flat by striking it all over with a cutlet-bat, (see Adamsʼ Illustrations). Next, place a pudding of highly-seasoned veal stuffing, No. 294, or Godiveau, No. 190, in the centre, and roll it up tightly in the beef ; sew up the side and ends with trussing-needle and string, to keep it in a bolster-like form, while barizing. Place the roll in a brazing-pan (see Adamsʼ Illustrations), with carrot, onions, celery, a bunch made with parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, six cloves, a bit of mace, and stock, or water sufficient to cover the beef ; simmer gently over a slow fire for about four hours ; and when done tender, take it up without undoing the string, and put the roll of beef in press between two dishes, with a fourteen-pound weight on the top. When the beef is nearly cold, remove the string, trim it free from any rough or discoloured parts, and set it to warm in a baking-dish with a little of its own stock, the greater part of which, after being freed from all grease, and thickened with either a large spoonful of flour or some brown thickening, No. 9, worked smooth, boiled, skimmed, and finished by adding a glass of wine and a small pinch of cayenne, will serve to pour over the roll of beef, garnished, when sent to table, round the base with glazed carrots and onions,—see Nos. 107 and 108.
No. 386.—BRAIZED ROLL OF BEEF A LA BEARNAISE.
Prepare the roll of beef as indicated in the foregoing number, and when dished up, garnish round the base with tomatas au gratin (see dressed vegetables) ; pour some tomata sauce, or else its own gravy—clarified and boiled down to the consistency of half glaze,—round, glaze the beef, and send to table.
No. 387.—STEWED RUMP OF BEEF.
This piece of beef is considered the best for stewing, or braizing, and should be chosen of fine quality for the purpose, of a deep bright·red colour, rich grained, and well covered with a thick coating of delicate fat. Bone the beef, and after having trimmed it, secure its shape with string, and braize or stew it as directed for rolls of beef ; when done and trimmed, garnish it with a Jardinière, or with dressed macaroni, or raviolis, or dressed Brussels sprouts, or glazed onions and carrots; pour either piquante sauce, poivrade, or tomata, round its base; glaze the beef, and serve.
No. 388.—RIBS OF BEEF A LA MODE.
Trim and prepare three short ribs of beef, by inserting in the round fleshy part, long square strippets of bacon seasoned with spice and herbs; and braize them with their trimmings, and carrot, celery, garnished bouquet of parsley, thyme and bay-leaf, salt, an onion stuck with a a dozen cloves, and enough stock or water to cover the beef. Set the beef to boil very gently over a slow fire, with live embers on the lid of the braizing-pan ; and when it has stewed in this manner for about four hours, take it up and trim it neatly without waste, and place it on its dish in the hot closet. Next, free the stock from all grease, strain and clarify it, and having boiled it down to the consistency of half glaze, use this, after garnishing the ramp as indicated in No. 385, to pour over it :—it may also be sauced with poivrade, tomata, or piquante sauce.
No. 389.—FILLET OF BEEF LARDED.
Procure a piece of fillet of beef, such as might be removed for the purpose from a piece of sirloin which would serve very well the next day for roasting, and with a sharp knife pare off the sinewy covering of the fillet, and lard the smooth surface with small shreds of fat bacon an inch and a quarter long, and about the six-teenth part of an inch square ; these are to be inserted in straight rows, across the fillet, and arranged so that each row dovetails into the other, thus forming a correct series of rows representing raised basket-work. The fillet should now be placed in the braizing-pan upon its drainer, garnished with the trimmings, carrot, celery, garnished bouquet, two onions with three cloves in each, a blade of mace, and a good spoonful of salt, moistened with sufficient stock or water to just barely reach up to the commencement of the larding, and set to braise, either in a brisk oven or over a slow fire with live embers on the lid of the pan ; it will take about two hours’ very gentle stewing to cook it quite mellow and tender. When the fillet is done, remove it on to a dish, and set it in the oven to dry the larding ; glaze it over and dish it up. Strain the liquor, free it from grease, clarify and reduce it to half-glaze, to be served as a sauce ; or else incorporate it with any sauce fitted for braized meats ; garnish the fillet round the base with potatoes cut in the form of walnuts or large olives, and fried in butter, alternately placed with groups of green peas, cauliflower, French beans, or else with a Jardinière, or Macédoine of vegetables; pour the sauce round, and serve.
No. 390.—FILLET OF BEEF A LA NAPOLITAINE.
Prepare the fillet as in the foregoing number, and when dished up, garnish it at each end with groups of raviolis No. 167; in each flank or side of the dish place a vase or cup, formed of turnip, and just scalded in salt and water coloured with a few drops of cochineal ; these are to be filled with white, fresh-scraped horse-radish; our some Neapolitan sauce, No. 59, over the fillet, and serve.
No. 391.—FILLET OF BEEF A LA RICHELIEU.
Trim the fillet as for larding, but instead of larding the smooth surface as in the former case, it is to be neatly covered with a thin layer of beef-suet, about a quarter of an inch thick, fastened on with string tied all along the fillet at distances of an inch from each other. The fillet is to be braized in all respects as in the foregoing cases, excepting that a glass of wine or brandy should be added. When done, clarify, reduce, and incorporate the stock with some Richelieu sauce No. 63; garnish round the base with quenelles, truffles, mushrooms ; pour the sauce over all, and serve quite hot.
No. 392.—BRAISED FILLET OF BEEF A LA MILTON.
Braise either a fillet or a rolled piece of thin end of sirloin of beef (previously boned) in the usual manner, and when done, mask the whole of the upper part with a thin coating of very finely-chopped green gherkins which have been mixed into the consistency of a paste by the addition of a piece of good glaze and four raw yolks of eggs : this must be stirred over the fire for a few minutes to partially set the eggs without curdling them, as that would make the preparation crumble, and thus prevent it from adhering to the meat. The surface being smoothed over with a knife dipped in hot water, place on it a neatly-composed design, representing a large star, a basket of fruits, &c., consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans, peas, heads of asparagus, &c., previously shaped and boiled for the purpose ; garnish the beef round the base with a varied Jardinière, and a border of dessert-spoon quenelles decorated with truffle and tongue ; serve poivrade sauce separately in a sauce boat.
Note.—Rumps, rolls, and fillets of beef may also be finished, and served in a greater variety of ways, by substituting any other appropriate garnish or sauce instead of those herein indicated. If preferred, the fillets may be roasted and served with the same garnishes and sauces.
No. 393.—PRESSED BEEF.
Pressed beef may be prepared with either briskets, or thick or thin flank of beef : the beef must first undergo curing in manner following: viz.,—to six pounds of common salt, add six ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of moist sugar, some bruised bay-leaves, thyme, basil, marjoram, winter savory, half an ounce of cloves, ditto of mace and of peppercorns, and three cloves of garlic ; mix this well together by pounding it in a mortar, and rub it well into the piece of beef intended to be cured or pickled : the beef must remain in the brine or pickle for about twelve days, when it will be ready for use.
When about to cook the beef, let it be rolled up and fastened in a cloth by sewing up the opening and otherwise cording it with twine, in the form of a bolster ; put it in a large pot with cold water to boil very gently for about four or five hours—according to weight and thickness ; and when the beef is done, let it be put in press between two dishes with heavy weights on the top. When the beef has become perfectly cold, take it out of the cloth, trim and glaze it over, garnish with aspic jelly, or merely with picked parsley ; and serve either for breakfast, luncheon, dinner; or supper.
No. 394.—OX-TONGUE.
Ox-tongues being sold ready pickled or smoked, it becomes almost needless to give instructions for that part of their preparation; it will suffice to say, that to effect the curing of tongues, it will be only necessary to refer to the instructions for pickling pressed beef.
The tongue should be boiled very slowly for about two hours and a half ; and when done, plunged into cold water to enable you to remove the furred coating or skin ; it should then be placed with the root end up against a piece of board set close to the wall by the dresser ; and by sticking a strong fork in the top of the tongue, it will by this means be curbed and held in an erect and elegant form, until set quite cold. The tongue must then be trimmed and glazed, if intended to be eaten cold ; and if it is to be served hot, should be wrapped up in a sheet of greased paper and warmed in hot water for a quarter of an hour previously to its being garnished, either with dressed spinach, sprouts, cauliflowers, brocoli, Jardinière, Macédoine, &c.; and served either as a small remove, or flank dish, or even as an entrée ; in which case it may also be garnished with macaroni, braised cabbage, sauce tomata, piquante, poivrade, &c.
No. 395.—BRAIZED OX-CHEEK.
Braise and press an ox-cheek as directed in No. 143; then cut it into oblong pieces measuring about two and half inches long by one inch and a half wide, trim away the corners and asperities so as to shape them neatly, and place them in order in a saucepan, with some of the stock they have been braized in, and which has been clarified, and boiled down to the consistency of half-glaze; use the remainder of this half-glaze either as a sauce for the entrée, or else let it be incorporated with the sauce intended for the dish, such as piquante, poivrade, tomata, Financière, &c. The pieces of ox-cheek, when hot, are to be dished up similarly to cutlets, the centre garnished with one of the variety of dressed vegetables recommended to be served with ox-tongues ; the sauce poured over and round the scollops, and served either as a remove dish or an entrée, as may best suit convenience.
No. 396.—HUNTING BEEF.
A round of beef is mostly used for this purpose, and should be cured according to the directions given for curing pressed beef, No 393 : the round should remain in the pickle for a fortnight, in order that it may become thoroughly flavoured with the spices, &c. When the round of beef is sufficiently saturated, tie it up to secure its shape, in the manner directed in No. 383; and boil it either in small beer or ale; or, if this is considered too extravagant, in water, remembering that it must boil slowly. It will take about five hours’ cooking ; but the length of time necessarily very much depends on its size and weight. When done, dish up the round with alternate groups of boiled carrots, parsnips, greens, and small dumplings.
Note.—Rounds, or any other joint of beef, prepared in the foregoing manner, are more frequently sent to table cold, for breakfast or luncheon, especially at Christmas time, when they are considered a desirable feature on the side-board.
No. 397.—ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.
Veal, to be in perfection, should if possible be procured fresh killed, as it does not improve by being kept. Take out the bone from a good fat fillet of veal, and with the bat flatten the udder; make a deep incision between the udder and the fillet with a knife, and fill it with veal-stuffing, No. 294 ; sew it up with small twine, wrap the udder tightly round the fillet, and secure its shape with skewers and twine : spit the fillet in the usual manner, cover it with buttered paper, roast it for about two hours and a half : just before it is done, take off the paper, and after shaking some flour over it from a dredger, baste the fillet with a little fresh butter, and froth it, then dish it up, pour round it some melted butter coloured with a little browning and lemon-juice; garnish round with potato croquets, and serve some boiled bacon with greens, separately.
Note.—Fillets of veal roasted, as shown in the foregoing instructions, and dished up, may also be garnished with Jardinières or Macédoines, or a Financière or Toulouse ragout. Fillets of veal may also be braised after the manner indicated for braising necks or breasts of veal, and garnished similarly.
No. 398.—ROAST NECK OF VEAL.
Saw of the scrag end and spine-bone from a neck of veal, shorten the ribs to four inches in length, run a stout iron skewer through the neck of veal lengthwise, and secure it on the spit by tying it with string at each end ; roast it before a clear fire for about an hour and a quarter, basting it frequently with dripping from the pan; and when nearly done, froth it over by shaking some flour upon it, and then baste it with a little butter dissolved for the purpose in a spoon ; in about ten minutes it must be removed from the fire and dished up ; pour some white sauce round it and serve.
Note.—Roast neck of veal may also be served in all respects as directed for fillet of veal.
No. 399.—BRAIZED NECK OF VEAL.
Trim a neck of veal as in the preceding number, place it in a brazing-pan on a bed of sliced carrot, onions, celery, and a garnished bouquet ; moisten with enough stock or water, just barely to cover the veal, and set it to stew or braize over a slow fire for about an hour and three-quarters; then remove the neck of veal on to a dish ; strain and free its stock from all grease, boil it down to half-glaze, and use this to baste the veal in the oven until it assumes a bright glossy surface. The neck of veal must now be dished up and garnished with stewed peas, or with glazed onions and carrots ; and the remainder of its glaze must be mixed with some brown sauce, and poured neatly round the base.
Note.—A braised neck of veal may also be garnished with cauliflowers or brocoli, or with asparagus, peas, with Jardinière or Macédoine, and sauced round with Béchamel ; it may be garnished with plain boiled rice, and some curry sauce poured over it.
No. 400.—NECK OF VEAL LARDED.
Trim a neck of veal after the manner indicated in the foregoing articles ; then with a sharp knife pare off the skin and sinew which cover the fillet part of the neck, leaving the ribs well and straightly covered with their fat ; the bared fillet must then be closely larded, and braised according to the precepts for the treatment of a fricandeau ; when done, remove the neck of veal from the brazing-pan on a baking-dish or saucepan, and after having first strained its liquor or stock, freed it from grease, and boiled it down to half-glaze, pour it over the veal, and use it to baste it frequently in the oven in order to give the larding a bright golden aspect, and also to cause it to absorb the whole of the stock, which will tend to give it savour and mellownes : it must now be dished up, and garnished with any of the dressed vegetables or ragouts recommended in the preceding case.
No. 401.—NOIX OR CUSHION OF VEAL.
The noix or cushion of veal is that part of the leg to which the udder adheres. In order to separate it from the round or fillet, the leg should be placed on the table with the knuckle from you, then with the left hand take hold of the upper part of the fillet of veal, while with the right hand insert the point of a knife into the separation which divides the noix or cushion from the under part of the fillet; cut the noix away, following the separation right through round to the knuckle, terminating at the left under the udder, which must be allowed to remain in its close adherence to the cushion. Pare off the sinewy parts from that of the cushion which is covered with skin, leaving the udder whole ; and when the fleshy part is laid bare, in a semicircular form, lard this part neatly and closely with fat bacon in the usual way ; and braize the cushion in exactly the same manner as described for fricandeau. When done, dish it up with any of the garnishes prescribed in the preceding cases.
No. 402.—CUSHION OF VEAL A LA ST. GEORGE.
Prepare a noix or cushion of veal as directed in the foregoing number, and when done, and brightly glazed in the oven, let it be dished up, and garnished with alternate groups of mushrooms, truffles, and small quenelles made from the trimmings of the veal; pour some Financière sauce over and round, and serve hot.
No. 403.—CUSHION OF VEAL A LA ST. CLOUD.
Trim a cushion of veal, and instead of larding it, as recommended in the foregoing numbers, make indentures with a wooden skewer over the trimmed surface of the cushion, and into these holes insert hobnail-like-shaped pieces of black truffle, or red tongue,—or of both alternated : cover the cushion with very thin layers of fat bacon, and placed it in a fricandeau-pan upon a bed of sliced carrot, onions, celery, and garnished bouquet or faggot of herbs, moisten with white stock or water, and braize it gently for about three hours; when done, remove the thin layers of fat bacon, dish it up, garnish with decorated quenelles, and white cocks' combs ; pour some Allemande sauce over and round the base, and serve.
No. 404.—ROAST LOIN OF VEAL.
Order a best end loin of veal, weighing about eight pounds, with a fair proportion of the skirt on; trim it square, and placing some veal-stuffing in an incision made for that purpose in the flap or skirt, wrap it round the kidney fat so as to secure it tightly with skewers and string; envelope the loin in well-greased sheets of clean paper secured with string; spit it, and roast it before a moderate fire for about two hours; when done, dish it up, and pour either some clear brown gravy, or some melted butter sauce coloured with a few spoonfuls of mushroom catsup over it, and serve separate1y—either a ham, or tongue, Bath chap, or some bacon garnished with some sort of vegetable.
No. 405.—LOIN OF VEAL BRAIZED.
Trim, stuff, and truss a loin of veal as described in the foregoing case; place it on a bed of sliced vegetables in a brazing-pan, cover it with a lifting piece of thick white paper—previous1y rubbed over with butter ; moisten with sufficient stock or water to just reach the edge of the surface of the veal, and set it to braize in the oven, or else very gently over a slow fire with live embers on the lid of the pan, taking due care to baste it frequently with its own liquor during the time it is being braized, in order that the meat, by continuously, absorbing the stock impregnated with the flavour of the vegetables and herbs, may thus become full of savour and mellow. When the loin of veal has thus stewed or braised for about three hours, let it be drained and placed on a baking-dish, and after straining and boiling down its own liquor to the consistency of half-glaze, add this to it, and set it in the oven,— continuously basting it with its glaze until it presents a bright, light glossy aspect : the loin of veal must then be dished up, garnished round with tomatas, or mushrooms au gratin, or with glazed onions and carrots : a Jardinière, or a Macécloine ; with Toulouse, Financière, Chipolata, or Milanese ragouts ; or with any kind of dressed vegetable; or with macaroni or potato croquets ; and any of the following sauces may be used to surround it: viz.,—Allemande, Béchamel, Tomata, Italian, Madeira, Financière.
No. 406.—LOIN OF VEAL A LA CREME.
Prepare and roast a loin of veal as directed in No, 404; and, about twenty minutes before it is done, put a clean dish under it, and baste it all over continuously with a pint of cream: this, as the veal continues to turn round before the fire, will cause it to assume a bright, light-brownish crust of a very delicate and delicious aspect; and which, while removing the veal from its spit on to its dish, must be carefully handled so as not to be knocked off ; let the brown deposit which has fallen from the veal during the time it has been basted with cream be detached from the dish which has duly received it, with some white mushroom juice, or water; add this to some white sauce and a little cream, and pour it round the veal.
Note.—It is hardly necessary to say that all veal joints may be advantageously dressed in this fashion.
No. 407.—ROAST BREAST OF VEAL.
Take a breast, or part of a breast of veal, and remove the tendons without cutting through the veal ; and, in their room, place a rolled pudding composed of veal stuffing, which must be secured by being sewn up with string, or merely fastened in with skewers. Spit the breast of veal, and roast it, if weighing eight pounds about an hour and three-quarters ; and when done, dish it up, pour over it some butter sauce mixed with either a little catsup or browning, and serve.
No. 408.—ROLLED BREAST OF VEAL.
Square the breast of veal by cutting off the rough ends in a straight line, and remove all the bones and tendons. Next, place a long rolled pudding of veal stuffing in the centre of the veal ; roll it up in the form of a bolster; secure its shape by cording it neatly round with string, and set it to braise in the usual way in a braizing-pan ; this will take about three hours ; and when dome, take it up, and having finished glazing it, as directed in the foregoing cases, place it on its dish, garnish it with any of the ragouts mentioned as fit accompaniments for necks or loins of veal, and send to table.
No. 409.—BREAST OF VEAL A LA PRINTANIERE.
Let the breast of veal be prepared and braised as described in the foregoing number ; and when done and dished up, garnish it round with alternate groups of glazed young carrots, turnips, onions, young potatoes, and green peas; sauce it round with its own glaze, and serve.
No. 410.—BREAST OF VEAL A LA CHIPOLATA.
Dress and dish up a breast of veal as in the preceding number ; glaze and garnish it with a ragout à la Chipolata, No. 123, and serve.
Note.—As Chipolata ragout is rather complicated and somewhat expensive, it is as well to remark that what is to be used, and what to be omitted, becomes purely a matter of convenience.
No. 411.—BOILED LEG OF MUTTON.
Place a trimmed log of mutton in a pot of sufficient capacity to hold about six gallons ; add enough cold water to let it swim, and sat it to boil ; after skimming it well, add a handful of salt, a few carrots, turnips, and a couple of parsnips; and when the leg of mutton has boiled about two hours and a half, it will be done. It should then be dished up with a cut paper ruffle on the shank-bone, garnished with mashed turnips mixed with a spoonful of flour, a pat of butter, a gill of cream, nutmeg, pepper and salt ; mould the mashed turnips in the shape of large eggs with two tablespoons—and place them in a circular row round the dish, introducing in between each spoonful of turnip a well-turned piece of boiled carrot; pour some gravy under, and serve capper sauce, separately.
No. 412.—BRAIZED LEG OF MUTTON.
Trim a leg of mutton, interlard it with strippets of ham, or bacon, cut a quarter of an inch square, and about six inches long—seasoned with aromatic herb peper and salt ; pare off any ends of bacon which may happen to protrude, and place the leg of mutton in a brazing-pan with carrots, turnips, celery, onions, a garnished faggot of parsley, cloves, mace, and a few peppercorns ; moisten with sufficient stock or water to cover the mutton, and set it to simmer very gently over a slow fire, or in the oven for about three hours, taking care to baste it frequently with its own liquor. Wen done, drained, and placed in a baking-dish, add the stock boiled down, and set in the oven to be glazed—by basting it often with its own essence ; and as soon as it presents a bright, glossy aspect, dish it up with glazed carrots and onions, or a richly-furnished Jardinière ; sauce over with the remainder of its glaze added to some brown sauce, and serve.
No. 413.—LEG OF MUTTON A LA NAPOLITAINE.
Braize a leg of mutton as in the foregoing number and, instead of garnishing it with vegetables, use— either raviolis No. 167, or well-dressed macaroni for that purpose ; pour over the leg of mutton and round the base of the macaroni some Neapolitan sauce, No. 59, and serve scraped horseradish, separately.
No. 414.—LEG OF MUTTON A LA PROVENÇALE.
Remove the thighbone from a leg of mutton, commencing at the thick end, leaving the leg-end bone in its place; fill the cavity thus left with a preparation consisting of—chopped mushrooms, parsley, shallot, ham, a clove of garlic, nutmeg, pepper, grated lemon-peel, and salt ; stew these with a pat of butter for a few minutes over the fire, and then pound them with two ounces of bread-crumb, four ounces of chopped lean raw meat; add four raw yolks of eggs—pound all thoroughly : fasten the stuffing in by sewing up the opening of the leg, and then place it in a braizing-pan with a gill of oil, two bay-leaves, thyme, marjoram, and two cloves of garlic ; fry the mutton on all sides over the fire until it assumes a uniform brown colour ; then moisten with stock or water sufficient to cover the mutton, and set it to braize gently for three hours, basting it often with its own liquor. When done, remove the leg of mutton on to a baking-dish; strain, remove all grease and boil down its stock, pour it to the mutton, and set it in the oven to finish glazing by frequently basting it with the glaze; and when this is accomplished, dish up the leg of mutton, pour some Provençale sauce, No. 69, mixed with the remainder of the glaze over the mutton; garnish with mushrooms au gratin, and serve.
No. 415.—LEG OF MUTTON A LA BRETONNE.
Braize and dish up a leg of mutton, as directed in the foregoing case, and garnish with haricot beans dressed with Brêtonne sauce, No. 56 ; pour the remainder of the glaze over the mutton, and serve.
No. 416.—LEG OF MUTTON A LA SOUBISE.
Prepare a leg of mutton as shown in No. 412, pour some Soubise sauce, No. 58, on the centre of the dish; place the leg of mutton thereon, garnish it round with potato croquets, pour the remainder of the glaze on the button, and serve.
No. 417.—BOILED NECK OF MUTTON.
Saw off the scrag·end and chine-bone of a neck of mutton, and shorten the ribs to about four inches in length; next, pare off the excess of fat to about half an inch in thickness, and boil the neck in plenty of water and a little salt, with three carrots and as many turnips; and when done, dish it up, surrounded with spoonfuls of mashed turnips, and the boiled carrots cut into neat shapes and placed between the mashed turnips ; pour some gravy over the mutton, and serve caper sauce separately.
No. 418.—NECK OF MUTTON A L'IRLANDAISE.
Trim a neck of mutton as in the preceding number and put it to braize in a stew pan with carrot, onion, celery, and a garnished bouquet of parsley ; moisten with stock or water, and set this to simmer very slowly over a moderate fire for about an hour and a half; and while the mutton is braizing, put a dozen peeled potatoes and six onions in a stewpan, with a pat of butter and some pepper and salt; moisten with a quart of stock or water, and set these to boil sharply over the fire, taking care that the potatoes are kept as whole a possible. When the neck of mutton is done quite tender, dish it up ; place the potatoes and onions neatly round it ; sauce it over with the reduced stock from the mutton, and serve.
No. 419.—NECK OF MUTTON ROEBUCK FASHION.
Trim a neck of mutton as for braizing, and afterwards, with a sharp knife lay the fillet or fleshy part quite bare by removing its covering of fat and sinew ; the bare part must then be closely larded with bacon, and pickled in marinade for at least two days (see No. 299). When sufficiently saturated with the marinade, it must be braized as directed for legs of mutton; and when done, glazed and dished up, it is to be garnished with potatoes turned in the form of large olives and fried in butter, of a light colour ; pour some chêvreuil sauce, No. 29, over the neck of mutton, and serve hot.
No. 420.—NECK OF MUTTON A LA SOUBISE.
Braize a larded neck of mutton (without having pickled it) as in the preceding case, and when done, dish it up on some thick Soubise sauce, No. 58 ; garnish it round with either fried potatoes, or potato croquets; pour its own glaze over the neck of mutton, and serve.
No. 421.—NECK OF MUTTON À L'ALLEMANDE.
Prepare and braize a neck of mutton as described in No. 419, and when done and glazed, dish it up ; garnish it round with German quenelles, No. 356, and stewed prunes ; pour some chêvreuil sauce, No. 29, over the mutton, and serve.
No. 422.—NECK OF MUTTON WITH PUREE OF SORREL.
Trim a neck of mutton and lard it, or not—for this purpose; if the neck of mutton is intended to be dressed plain, let it be neatly trimmed as for boiling, braized as recommended in No. 418, and when dished up, on a purée of sorrel, No. 119 A., previously placed in the centre of the dish, garnish it round with a border of glazed spring-carrots ; pour its reduced stock over the neck of mutton, and serve.
Note.—Braized necks of mutton, whether larded or plain, may also be served, either with any kind of purée of vegetables, or, any vegetable garnish, such as glazed onions, turnips, Jardinière, &c., dressed tomatas, &c.
No. 423.—SHEEPʼS HEADS GALLIMAUFRIED.
Procure the head and pluck of a fresh-killed sheep ; split the head into halves, remove the brains; steep the whole in water, and wash them thoroughly. Next, place the head, lights, heart, and liver in a stewpan with carrot, onion, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, six cloves, mace, a few Jamaica peppercorns, and a small handful of salt ; moisten with sufficient common broth or water to make the contents of the stew pan swim, and then set the whole to braize slowly over the fire for out an hour and a half. When the head, &c., are done, take them up carefully on a dish, strain the broth, and after having removed all grease, boil down one-half to thin glaze, and with the remainder make some brown sauce. The halves of the head should be trimmed, seasoned with chopped parsley and shallot, pepper and salt, egged over and bread-crumbed, and then, after having sprinkled some clarified butter over the surface the cheek only, should be again bread-crumbed and placed on a buttered sautapan for the purpose of being baked of a golden-brown colour. The liver, lights, and heart. must be chopped up into fine mince, and when the sauce has been boiled down to its proper consistency, add the mince, some chopped parsley, mushrooms, and shalots, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a dessert-spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell's Oude sauce ; stir well together over the fire until quite hot, and then pile up the mince in the centre of the dish ; place the pieces of head upon this, garnish the base with thin strippets of frizzled bacon, and serve.
Note.—The brains—after being cleaned—should be boiled in vinegar and water, with a little salt, for a few minutes, cut in slices, and placed between the halves of the head.
No. 424.—ROAST HAUNCH OF MUTTON.
Procure, if possible, a haunch of four-year-old South-down or Scotch mutton. Weather permitting, it should have hung in a cool larder for about ten days : let it be trimmed by removing the epidermis or transparent skin which covers the fat; saw off the shank-bone, cover it with two large sheets of well-greased paper, place it in a cradle-spit, and roast it before a good fire for about two hours and a quarter : the joint must be kept at a distance of about eighteen inches from the fire; it must be basted with dripping every five minutes; and about ten minutes before being taken up, first remove the paper which covers it, dredge it all over with flour, shake a little salt over the surface, and with a large spoon pierced with holes, drop some dissolved butter over it, in order to give it that deliciously brown frothy aspect so well appreciated by all lovers of a well roasted English joint.
Note.—Irish, Welsh, and Devonshire mutton also possess great claims to the notice of epicures; and when obtained in perfection, are worthy of a wide-spread reputation.
No. 425.—ROAST SADDLE OF MUTTON.
In the selection of a saddle or, indeed, of any other joint of mutton, follow the instructions given in the preceding article; and, as regards the roasting, take the same precautions, bearing in mind, that about an hour and a half will suicide to roast a saddle weighing about ten pounds.
Note.—Great diversity of opinion exists as to which is positively the best method of carving a saddle of mutton and so determinately convinced are both advocates on this knotty question, that with all my experience in these matters, I am loth to pronounce a verdict ;—not from any fear of finding myself in a minority on either side, for I believe that in this case, at least, numbers are equally balanced; but for this reason—that I well know that nobody is ever convinced by controversy.—Notwithstanding all that precedes, I must just venture most humbly to explain why I advocate the transverse—instead of the long—or parallel cut. Everybody may easily acquaint himself with the fact that the filaments or fibres of the grain of the meat run parallel with the spine-bone of a saddle of mutton ; and, consequently, that with the elongated slice so cut,—when divided on the plate into morsels for mastication,—the teeth must necessarily meet with a greater amount of resistance when they have to cut through a mass of close fibres, which in this form are presented for their incision, than would be the case if each side of the saddle were to be cut out in slanting slices—cutlet-wise, by making an incision along the spine-bone, and then cutting the slices from that line—crosswise, through the sides. By this means you obtain a slice of mutton with its fair accompaniment of delicate skirt fat ; and from the very fact that the fibres are being severed crosswise, the teeth have only to press lightly in order to devoid the morsel, and are consequently relieved from much labour. What is infinately of more consequence, the meat by this simple and much more economical mode of carving, has a better chance of eating tender ; and besides that, every guest is served with fairness.
No. 426.—BOILED SHOULDER OF MUTTON.
Salt a shoulder of mutton, and turn it over in its brine every morning for about six days ; at the expiration of this time, it will be fit to dress : it must be put on to boil in a pot with cold water, a carrot, onion, celery, and a garnished bouquet of parsley, and boiled very gently for about an hour and three-quarters, and when done, dished up with a border of boiled carrots and parsnips, and smothered with onion sauce, No. 55.
No. 427.—STUFFED SHOULDER OF MUTTON.
Saw off the stump shank from a shoulder of mutton ; remove the blade-bone with care—so as not to disturb the outer shape of the shoulder by making a hole through it. Fill the cavity occasioned by the removal of the blade-bone with veal stuffing No. 294; sew up the opening by gathering up the sides of the meat with trussing-needle and string, drawing them up—something like a purse—and fastening the ends so as to secure it in a plump shape or form. Next, let the shoulder of mutton be either nicely roasted or braized; and when dished up, pour over it some piquante sauce, No. 22, and serve hot.
Note.—Shoulders of mutton prepared after this fashion may also be served as directed in the variety of forms for dressing legs of mutton.
No. 428.—LOINS OF MUTTON.
Loins of mutton subjected to the same treatment of dressing as those indicated for necks of mutton may be served according to similar fashions, and also garnished it the same sauces and accompaniments as are recommended in all those cases.
No. 429.—SADDLE OF MUTTON A LA POLONAISE.
This is generally prepared from the remains of a saddle of mutton, left from the joint which has been dressed for a previous day's dinner, and becomes therefore a most economical dish, a circumstance which by no means detracts from its recommendation to the notice of every epicure. Cut all the meat from the saddle of mutton, and mince it fine; put this into a stewpan with enough brown sauce to moisten it; season with chopped parsley and shallot, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a spoonful of Oude sauce ; stir over the fire for about ten minutes until quite hot ; and while this is going on, prepare the pulp of a dozen baked potatoes mixed with two ounces of butter, four yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper and salt ; stir this over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the stewpan, and thus becomes a rather firm kind of paste ; roll it with flour on the table, and with it form an ornamental sort of wall on the dish round the saddle-of-mutton bone—so as to give it the appearance of its original shape ; place the mince in the centre; strew some raspings, or fried bread-crumbs all over the top ; egg over the potato wall, and put it in a sharp oven to bake it of a light-brown colour; when done, place six or eight delicately-poached eggs on the surface; pour some gravy or poivrade sauce round the base, and serve.
Note.—Legs, loins, or shoulders of mutton may be turned to the same account, giving each its original shape by using the potato-paste for that purpose.
No. 430.—ROAST FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.
Saw off the shank-bone, and also the chine-bone—along the fillet part of the neck; and with a saw partially sever the rib-bones, midway between the edge of the breast and the spine-bone. Cover the forequartcr of lamb with buttered paper, and secure it in an even position on the spit; roast it before a brisk fire for about an hour and a half, and about ten minutes before taking it up, dredge it with flour and a little salt, and baste it over with a little dissolved butter, to froth and brown it of an appetising colour. It must then be dished up with a cut-paper ruffle on the shank-bone, gravy must be poured under it, and mint sauce served separately.
Note.—Chop a double handful of clean mint-leaves, and mix them in a sauce-boat, with half a gill of vinegar and an ounce of moist sugar.
No. 431.—RIBS OR TARGET OF LAMB.
Ribs, or as it is sometimes called, target of lamb, consists of the breast and neck joints left adhering together in their natural position. The chine-bone should be sawed off, and the flat bones removed from the meaty part of the neck ; the ribs are to be partially sawed through, so that when the lamb is cooked, it becomes an easy matter to separate the breast from the neck or superior rib-bones. Cover the ribs of lamb with buttered paper; run two iron skewers through it crosswise, and having secured it in an even position on the spit, roast it before a brisk fire for about an hour, according to the instructions contained in the foregoing number.
Note.—When roast lamb is intended to be eaten cold, the addition of chopped parsley, and a little pepper and salt sprinkled over it after it is removed from the fire, gives it a more inviting aspect.
No. 432.—BOILED LEG OF LAMB.
Select a leg of a fresh-killed lamb, well furnished with white fat, boil it in water with a tablespoonful of salt, carrot, celery, onion and turnip ; it will be done in about an hour and a quarter, and should be dished up surrounded either with dressed spinach, and the addition of spring carrots and turnips, or else with the latter only, or with cauliflowers; a little white sauce, or maître-d’hôtel sauce, should be poured over the lamb, and a cut-paper ruffle placed on the shank·bone.
Note.—Legs of lamb may also be dressed in every variety of form recommended for the treatment of leg of mutton.
No. 433.—SHOULDER OF LAMB GRILLED.
When it happens that you have a cold shoulder, or part of a shoulder of lamb, left from a previous day's dinner, take a knife and score it twice crosswise, by cutting incisions down to the bone; season with pepper and salt, grill it over a clear fire, turning it frequently for about twenty minutes. and when done, dish it up wit piquante sauce.
No. 434.—LAMB’S HEAD.
See Sheep’s Head, No. 423.
No. 435.—SHOULDER OF LAMB A LA MONTMORENCY.
Saw off the nob, or knuckle-bone, from the shank of a shoulder of lamb; remove the blade-bones without cutting through the meat or skin which covers it ; fill the cavity thus occasioned with well-seasoned forcemeat ; gather up the edges of the shoulder by means of a trussing-needle and small twine, by drawing them up in purse-like fashion, so as to securely hold the forcemeat within the cavity of the shoulder. Next, with the point of a small knife make a circular incision all round the inner part of the plump cushion, to the depth of the eighth of an inch, and then dextrously shave off the superficial skin which covers the inner part of the circle thus traced out : this bared part of the shoulder is to be closely and meatly larded in the usual way, and braized as directed for necks of mutton larded ; it is also to finished in the same manner, and when dished up should be garnished with a Toulouse ragout, No. 105.
Note.—Shoulders of lamb, either larded or not, prepared as above, may also be garnished as indicated for legs and necks of mutton.
No. 436.—SADDLE OF LAMB BRAIZED.
For this purpose it is necessary to bone, that is to say, to remove all the bones from the saddle of lamb ; and when this has been effected without injury to the upper part of the skin of the saddle, let it be filled in with forcemeat, or Godiveau, No. 190 : this is to be securely fastened in, by neatly and carefully rolling up the forced saddle of lamb in a napkin spread with butter, and then again, by tightly securing the ends with tied string. The saddle thus far prepared, must be braized in white stock, with the usual complement of stock vegetables, for about an hour and a half ; and when done, and taken out of the braize, must be left in the napkin, and pressed between two dishes with a fourteen-pound weight on the top dish : the saddle must be allowed to remain in the cold until set quite firm ; it may then be removed from the napkin, slightly trimmed, made hot in a little of the stock without boiling (as that might deform it), placed on its dish, garnished round with four lamb’s-breads larded, and four decorated quenelles, placed alternately, some truffles, cockʼs combs, and button mushrooms ; glaze the saddle, pour some Allemande sauce round the base, and serve.
Note.—Saddles of lamb prepared in this fashion may also be garnished with any kind of dressed vegetables.
No. 437.—SADDLE OF LAMB A LA VILLEROI.
Prepare a saddle of lamb as directed in the foregoing case; and when pressed, cold, and trimmed, place it on a buttered baking-sheet, mask it over with a coating of stiff Allemande sauce, and, as soon as this is set perfectly cold and firm, egg it over with a brush dipped in beaten egg; crumb over the surface with some fried bread-crunnbs of a very light colour, mixed with a spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese : and about half an hour before dinner-time, set the saddle in a rather slow oven to get warm, taking care to prevent it from gaining a dark colour. When done, garnish it on its dish. with any of the ragouts recommended in the preceding number.
No 438.—SCOTCH HAGGIS.
Procure a lambʼs paunch well cleansed, and perfectly white—any butcher will oblige you with it. Next, parboil a lambs pluck in water with salt and pepper, until done, and chop it fine. Place a dozen chopped onions with four ounces of butter in a stewpan, and fry these over a slow fire of a very light colour; to these add the chopped liver, lights. &c., one pound of oatmeal, one pound of chopped beef-suet, some chopped thyme and parsley, nutmeg, pepper and salt ; stir altogether, and with this fill up the lambʼs paunch, which must have been previously pressed in a cloth to absorb all watery moisture. Carefully fasten any holes that may exist in the paunch, by tying them up with string, and then tie up the Haggis in a cloth much in the same manner as you would a pudding, and boil it in a large stewpan with enough stock or water to cover it ; the haggis will require about three hours very gentle boiling to cook it; when done, take it carefully out of the pot, and gently remove it from the napkin on to its dish, and serve it while it is hot, and in perfection.
No. 439.—BOILED LEG OF PORK.
Saw off the shank-bone from a pickled leg of dairy fed pork, and put it on to boil in cold water, with the carrots, turnips, and parsnips intended to be served with it, and also a quart of split peas previously washed and soaked over night for the purpose ; let the peas be tied up loosely in a napkin, and put in the pot to boil with the pork. A leg of pork weighing about six pounds would require about two hours' gentle boiling. When the pork is done, take it up on to its dish, garnish it round with the carrots, turnips, and cut into neat shapes; pour some gravy over the pork, and serve the peas-pudding on a separate dish.
Note.—If the peas for the pudding are put on to boil at the same time as the pork, they will be done in about abhor and a half. They are then to be taken out of the napkin, rubbed through a wire sieve or colander, mixed with a pat of butter, three yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and tied up as any other pudding, in a napkin previously well buttered and floured; and again placed in the pot with the pork, to continue boiling until the pork is done.
No. 440.—LEG OF PORK GERMAN FASHION.
Pickle a leg of pork with four ounces of saltpetre, ditto of moist sugar, half a pint of vinegar, cloves, mace, sweet basil, and marjoram, thyme and bay-leaves, and the usual quantity of common salt, and allow it to remain in this pickle for about ten days: boil the leg of pork as directed in the foregoing article, and when done, dish it up with dressed sauërkraut, or stewed red cabbage; surround it with a border of glazed carrots and onions, pour some poivrade sauce over and round the pork, and serve.
No. 441.—ROAST LEG OF PORK.
Make a wide incision just below the knuckle of a leg of pork—between the skin and flesh—and fill this with sage-and-onion stuffing, No. 297 ; sew up the opening with twine ; score the pork all over by cutting the rind through in narrow bands with a sharp knife, then spit the joint, and roast it for about two hours, basting it frequently ; and when done, dish it up with brown gravy, and serve sage-and-onion gravy in one sauce-boat, and apple sauce in another.
No. 442.—ROAST SPARERIB.
This should be lightly sprinkled with salt the day before it is to be dressed for table; it must then have a long iron skewer thrust through it lengthwise, and fastened at each end on the spit, and be roasted for about an hour and a half before a brisk fire; when done dish up with brown gravy, and garnish with brown potatoes—baked with a little dripping in the oven serve apple sauce, and sage-and-onion in separate sauce boats.
Roast necks and loins of pork are to be dressed according to the foregoing directions.
No. 443.—HOW TO PICKLE PORK.
Pork should be pickled while perfectly fresh : it is a very simple process, for it requires only to be rubbed every day with plenty of common salt, for four or five mornings; but, in order to prevent the possibility of failure, be it remembered that strict cleanliness is indispensable to success; and do not forget that each morning previously to your going to the pickling tub, it is essential that you should wash your hands in cold water. About ten days' salting suffices to pickle pork and it must be turned over in the brine every morning, so that it may become equally saturated.
No. 444.—ROAST SUCKING PIG.
Fill the paunch of the sucking pig with stuffing prepared as follows: viz.,—chop fine four onions and a dozen sage-leaves ; fry these with two ounces of butter over a slow fire for a few minutes, then add half a pound of bread-crumbs, two yolks of eggs, pepper and salt. And thus, the pig being stuffed, and the paunch sewn up securely, roast it before a brisk fire for about two hours ; basting it frequently—by means of a paste-brush dipped in salad-oil. When the pig is done, and before removing it from the spit, cut if the head, and divide the pig into halves, by sawing it straight down the spine. Dish up the pig with brown gravy ; to some of the stuffing add the brains and a few spoonfuls of melted butter and serve this sauce separately.
No. 445.—ROAST PIG A LA PERIGUEUX.
In this case the pig must be stuffed with truffles prepared as follows: viz.,—thoroughly clean and peel one pound of English truffles, the cost of which would be about three shillings ; cut each truffle into four pieces, and place these in a stewpan with half a pound of chopped and pounded fat bacon, chopped thyme and bay-leaf, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and one small clove of garlic ; simmer the whole over a slow fire for ten minutes, and with these truffles, &c., fill the paunch of the sucking-pig. Having securely sewn up the opening, roast it as directed in the preceding case, and when done, and dished up, pour over it some périgeux sauce, No. 67, and serve.
No. 446.—ROAST PIG A LA CHIPOLATA.
Prepare chestnut stubbing as follows: viz.,—scald, peel, and scrape fifty chestnuts, boil them for about twenty minutes in a pint of milk, a bit of butter, and a little salt; and when nearly done, drain the chestnuts dry, and mix them with one pound of highly—seasoned sausage-meat. Having filled the paunch of the sucking-pig with this stuffing, roast it as in the foregoing cases. When done, dish it up with a Chipolata ragoût round it.
Note.—Roast sucking-pig may also be served with piquante, tomato, Provençal, poivrade, Italian, or ham sauce.
No. 447.—BATH CHAPS.
Bath chaps—or pig’s faces cured as bacon-—are much esteemed by some epicures, and are very good substitutes for ham with roast turkey, &c., especially in an economical point of view. When about to dress a bath chap, it should be first soaked in cold water for three or four hours previously to its being boiled for about an hour and a half in water ; when done, pull off the rind, shake some brown raspings of bread all over the cheek, dish it up with some kind of green vegetables round it, and serve.
No. 448.—CHINE OF PORK.
A chine of pork is that part which is cut from the bacon-hog (from the upper part of the spine), between the shoulders; it consists of more fat than lean, and is merely salted for about ten days in common brine ; it is to be cooked by boiling it in plenty of water similarly to bacon, and served up garnished with greens, as an accompaniment to roast turkey, &c.
For the unfamiliar, removes are typically the main meat part of the main course, typically large dishes with garnishes that are palced at the top or bottom end of a dinner table for carving or serving (or which, in Victorian times, might be presented and served on a side-table).
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
Francatelli's Chapter VII: Removes in General.
CHAPTER VII.
REMOVES IN GENERAL.
Removes are large dishes placed at the top or bottom end of a dinner-table, or served from the side-table : they mostly consist of roast, boiled, braised, or other wise highly-dressed meats, &c.
A piece of sirloin of beef, in order to have any chance of perfection when cooked, should not weigh less than sixteen pounds ; it will take about two hours and a half to roast it, before a good fire : it must be kept at a distance of eighteen inches from the grate. Baste frequently, with the fat placed in the dripping-pan ; and a quarter of an hour before it is done, shake a little salt and some flour all over it ; and when it is removed from the spit, and placed upon its dish, pour over some good gravy, or hot water and a little brown colouring ; serve separately, some scraped horseradish, or else some horseradish sauce, No. 78 ; and in a separate dish, a piece of Yorkshire pudding, No. 298.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Roast Sirloin of Beef.
A piece of ribs of beef intended for roasting should consist of not less than three or four ribs ; the chine bone and also the upper part of the rib-bones should be removed by sawing them off ; the flap-ends fastened under neatly with wooden skewers, and equally balanced on the spit. The ribs of beef should then be roasted in much the same manner as indicated for the treatment of sirloin of beef.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Roast Ribs of Beef.
A round of beef being a large joint, it necessarily follows that it is seldom dressed in small families, where it would be considered an extravagance ; although, when due regard is had to practical economy, by using thriftiness and care in turning to account the remains of this or any other large joint, by referring to the almost innumerable forms of made-dishes contained in this work, the amount of extravagance incurred becomes very sensibly diminished ; and, as moreover it is a fact, that a small round out from a well-fed Scot, or a Durham ox is, occasionally, a most desirable thing, it is essential that it should be well dressed : pray remember, that this requires great care. Procure a round of beef well furnished with rich delicate-looking fat; take out the kernels, and salt it in the usual manner : that is, with clean, cold hands rub in and all over it about four pounds of salt, turning it over in the brine, and rubbing it well with the salt every morning for about ten days : by this time, the round of beef will be ready for use. Next, after removing the round from the brine, fold it into shape by pulling the flap-piece close to the buttock; well fasten it with skewers, and in order to maintain it in proper shape while it is boiling, bind it neatly and tightly all round with a piece of tape called webbing, put it on in a sufficiently large pot in cold water, bearing in mind that it must never be allowed to boil fast, as that always spoils the best salt meat, by rendering it hard and stringy : when the round has boiled very gently for about five hours (according to the weight), take it up, trim away the soiled parts of the fat, stick in four silver skewers to keep it in shape, cut off the first slice, garnish it round the base with well-shaped boiled carrots and parsnips; pour some of its liquor coloured with a little browning over it, and serve a suet pudding, No. 299, or dumpling and summer cabbages in separate dishes. A sauce-boat filled with sauce piquante would prove rather a pleasant accompaniment to this brave old English solidity.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Boiled Round of Beef.
Salt the aitch-bone, and boil it with care as directed for the round; and garnish it in the same manner. All other joints of salt beef are to be treated similarly.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Boiled Aitch-bone of Beef.
Take a piece of thin flank, weighing about eight pounds,—it should be cut as nearly square as posse; let it be cured in the same manner as pressed beef, No. 393, for three days only ; it is then to be removed from the brine, washed and wiped dry, and spread out square and flat by striking it all over with a cutlet-bat, (see Adamsʼ Illustrations). Next, place a pudding of highly-seasoned veal stuffing, No. 294, or Godiveau, No. 190, in the centre, and roll it up tightly in the beef ; sew up the side and ends with trussing-needle and string, to keep it in a bolster-like form, while barizing. Place the roll in a brazing-pan (see Adamsʼ Illustrations), with carrot, onions, celery, a bunch made with parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, six cloves, a bit of mace, and stock, or water sufficient to cover the beef ; simmer gently over a slow fire for about four hours ; and when done tender, take it up without undoing the string, and put the roll of beef in press between two dishes, with a fourteen-pound weight on the top. When the beef is nearly cold, remove the string, trim it free from any rough or discoloured parts, and set it to warm in a baking-dish with a little of its own stock, the greater part of which, after being freed from all grease, and thickened with either a large spoonful of flour or some brown thickening, No. 9, worked smooth, boiled, skimmed, and finished by adding a glass of wine and a small pinch of cayenne, will serve to pour over the roll of beef, garnished, when sent to table, round the base with glazed carrots and onions,—see Nos. 107 and 108.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Boiled Thin Flank of Beef.
Prepare the roll of beef as indicated in the foregoing number, and when dished up, garnish round the base with tomatas au gratin (see dressed vegetables) ; pour some tomata sauce, or else its own gravy—clarified and boiled down to the consistency of half glaze,—round, glaze the beef, and send to table.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Braised Roll of Beef à la Bearnaise.
This piece of beef is considered the best for stewing, or braizing, and should be chosen of fine quality for the purpose, of a deep bright·red colour, rich grained, and well covered with a thick coating of delicate fat. Bone the beef, and after having trimmed it, secure its shape with string, and braize or stew it as directed for rolls of beef ; when done and trimmed, garnish it with a Jardinière, or with dressed macaroni, or raviolis, or dressed Brussels sprouts, or glazed onions and carrots; pour either piquante sauce, poivrade, or tomata, round its base; glaze the beef, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Stewed Rump of Beef.
Trim and prepare three short ribs of beef, by inserting in the round fleshy part, long square strippets of bacon seasoned with spice and herbs; and braize them with their trimmings, and carrot, celery, garnished bouquet of parsley, thyme and bay-leaf, salt, an onion stuck with a a dozen cloves, and enough stock or water to cover the beef. Set the beef to boil very gently over a slow fire, with live embers on the lid of the braizing-pan ; and when it has stewed in this manner for about four hours, take it up and trim it neatly without waste, and place it on its dish in the hot closet. Next, free the stock from all grease, strain and clarify it, and having boiled it down to the consistency of half glaze, use this, after garnishing the ramp as indicated in No. 385, to pour over it :—it may also be sauced with poivrade, tomata, or piquante sauce.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Ribs of Beef à la Mode.
Procure a piece of fillet of beef, such as might be removed for the purpose from a piece of sirloin which would serve very well the next day for roasting, and with a sharp knife pare off the sinewy covering of the fillet, and lard the smooth surface with small shreds of fat bacon an inch and a quarter long, and about the six-teenth part of an inch square ; these are to be inserted in straight rows, across the fillet, and arranged so that each row dovetails into the other, thus forming a correct series of rows representing raised basket-work. The fillet should now be placed in the braizing-pan upon its drainer, garnished with the trimmings, carrot, celery, garnished bouquet, two onions with three cloves in each, a blade of mace, and a good spoonful of salt, moistened with sufficient stock or water to just barely reach up to the commencement of the larding, and set to braise, either in a brisk oven or over a slow fire with live embers on the lid of the pan ; it will take about two hours’ very gentle stewing to cook it quite mellow and tender. When the fillet is done, remove it on to a dish, and set it in the oven to dry the larding ; glaze it over and dish it up. Strain the liquor, free it from grease, clarify and reduce it to half-glaze, to be served as a sauce ; or else incorporate it with any sauce fitted for braized meats ; garnish the fillet round the base with potatoes cut in the form of walnuts or large olives, and fried in butter, alternately placed with groups of green peas, cauliflower, French beans, or else with a Jardinière, or Macédoine of vegetables; pour the sauce round, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Fillet of Beef Larded.
Prepare the fillet as in the foregoing number, and when dished up, garnish it at each end with groups of raviolis No. 167; in each flank or side of the dish place a vase or cup, formed of turnip, and just scalded in salt and water coloured with a few drops of cochineal ; these are to be filled with white, fresh-scraped horse-radish; our some Neapolitan sauce, No. 59, over the fillet, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Fillet of Beef à la Napolitaine.
Trim the fillet as for larding, but instead of larding the smooth surface as in the former case, it is to be neatly covered with a thin layer of beef-suet, about a quarter of an inch thick, fastened on with string tied all along the fillet at distances of an inch from each other. The fillet is to be braized in all respects as in the foregoing cases, excepting that a glass of wine or brandy should be added. When done, clarify, reduce, and incorporate the stock with some Richelieu sauce No. 63; garnish round the base with quenelles, truffles, mushrooms ; pour the sauce over all, and serve quite hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Fillet of Beef à la Richlieu.
Braise either a fillet or a rolled piece of thin end of sirloin of beef (previously boned) in the usual manner, and when done, mask the whole of the upper part with a thin coating of very finely-chopped green gherkins which have been mixed into the consistency of a paste by the addition of a piece of good glaze and four raw yolks of eggs : this must be stirred over the fire for a few minutes to partially set the eggs without curdling them, as that would make the preparation crumble, and thus prevent it from adhering to the meat. The surface being smoothed over with a knife dipped in hot water, place on it a neatly-composed design, representing a large star, a basket of fruits, &c., consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans, peas, heads of asparagus, &c., previously shaped and boiled for the purpose ; garnish the beef round the base with a varied Jardinière, and a border of dessert-spoon quenelles decorated with truffle and tongue ; serve poivrade sauce separately in a sauce boat.
Note.—Rumps, rolls, and fillets of beef may also be finished, and served in a greater variety of ways, by substituting any other appropriate garnish or sauce instead of those herein indicated. If preferred, the fillets may be roasted and served with the same garnishes and sauces.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Braised Fillet of Beef à la Milton.
Pressed beef may be prepared with either briskets, or thick or thin flank of beef : the beef must first undergo curing in manner following: viz.,—to six pounds of common salt, add six ounces of saltpetre, half a pound of moist sugar, some bruised bay-leaves, thyme, basil, marjoram, winter savory, half an ounce of cloves, ditto of mace and of peppercorns, and three cloves of garlic ; mix this well together by pounding it in a mortar, and rub it well into the piece of beef intended to be cured or pickled : the beef must remain in the brine or pickle for about twelve days, when it will be ready for use.
When about to cook the beef, let it be rolled up and fastened in a cloth by sewing up the opening and otherwise cording it with twine, in the form of a bolster ; put it in a large pot with cold water to boil very gently for about four or five hours—according to weight and thickness ; and when the beef is done, let it be put in press between two dishes with heavy weights on the top. When the beef has become perfectly cold, take it out of the cloth, trim and glaze it over, garnish with aspic jelly, or merely with picked parsley ; and serve either for breakfast, luncheon, dinner; or supper.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Pressed Beef.
Ox-tongues being sold ready pickled or smoked, it becomes almost needless to give instructions for that part of their preparation; it will suffice to say, that to effect the curing of tongues, it will be only necessary to refer to the instructions for pickling pressed beef.
The tongue should be boiled very slowly for about two hours and a half ; and when done, plunged into cold water to enable you to remove the furred coating or skin ; it should then be placed with the root end up against a piece of board set close to the wall by the dresser ; and by sticking a strong fork in the top of the tongue, it will by this means be curbed and held in an erect and elegant form, until set quite cold. The tongue must then be trimmed and glazed, if intended to be eaten cold ; and if it is to be served hot, should be wrapped up in a sheet of greased paper and warmed in hot water for a quarter of an hour previously to its being garnished, either with dressed spinach, sprouts, cauliflowers, brocoli, Jardinière, Macédoine, &c.; and served either as a small remove, or flank dish, or even as an entrée ; in which case it may also be garnished with macaroni, braised cabbage, sauce tomata, piquante, poivrade, &c.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Ox Tongue.
Braise and press an ox-cheek as directed in No. 143; then cut it into oblong pieces measuring about two and half inches long by one inch and a half wide, trim away the corners and asperities so as to shape them neatly, and place them in order in a saucepan, with some of the stock they have been braized in, and which has been clarified, and boiled down to the consistency of half-glaze; use the remainder of this half-glaze either as a sauce for the entrée, or else let it be incorporated with the sauce intended for the dish, such as piquante, poivrade, tomata, Financière, &c. The pieces of ox-cheek, when hot, are to be dished up similarly to cutlets, the centre garnished with one of the variety of dressed vegetables recommended to be served with ox-tongues ; the sauce poured over and round the scollops, and served either as a remove dish or an entrée, as may best suit convenience.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Braised Ox Cheek.
A round of beef is mostly used for this purpose, and should be cured according to the directions given for curing pressed beef, No 393 : the round should remain in the pickle for a fortnight, in order that it may become thoroughly flavoured with the spices, &c. When the round of beef is sufficiently saturated, tie it up to secure its shape, in the manner directed in No. 383; and boil it either in small beer or ale; or, if this is considered too extravagant, in water, remembering that it must boil slowly. It will take about five hours’ cooking ; but the length of time necessarily very much depends on its size and weight. When done, dish up the round with alternate groups of boiled carrots, parsnips, greens, and small dumplings.
Note.—Rounds, or any other joint of beef, prepared in the foregoing manner, are more frequently sent to table cold, for breakfast or luncheon, especially at Christmas time, when they are considered a desirable feature on the side-board.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Hunting Beef.
Veal, to be in perfection, should if possible be procured fresh killed, as it does not improve by being kept. Take out the bone from a good fat fillet of veal, and with the bat flatten the udder; make a deep incision between the udder and the fillet with a knife, and fill it with veal-stuffing, No. 294 ; sew it up with small twine, wrap the udder tightly round the fillet, and secure its shape with skewers and twine : spit the fillet in the usual manner, cover it with buttered paper, roast it for about two hours and a half : just before it is done, take off the paper, and after shaking some flour over it from a dredger, baste the fillet with a little fresh butter, and froth it, then dish it up, pour round it some melted butter coloured with a little browning and lemon-juice; garnish round with potato croquets, and serve some boiled bacon with greens, separately.
Note.—Fillets of veal roasted, as shown in the foregoing instructions, and dished up, may also be garnished with Jardinières or Macédoines, or a Financière or Toulouse ragout. Fillets of veal may also be braised after the manner indicated for braising necks or breasts of veal, and garnished similarly.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Roast Fillet of Veal.
Saw of the scrag end and spine-bone from a neck of veal, shorten the ribs to four inches in length, run a stout iron skewer through the neck of veal lengthwise, and secure it on the spit by tying it with string at each end ; roast it before a clear fire for about an hour and a quarter, basting it frequently with dripping from the pan; and when nearly done, froth it over by shaking some flour upon it, and then baste it with a little butter dissolved for the purpose in a spoon ; in about ten minutes it must be removed from the fire and dished up ; pour some white sauce round it and serve.
Note.—Roast neck of veal may also be served in all respects as directed for fillet of veal.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Roast Neck of Veal.
Trim a neck of veal as in the preceding number, place it in a brazing-pan on a bed of sliced carrot, onions, celery, and a garnished bouquet ; moisten with enough stock or water, just barely to cover the veal, and set it to stew or braize over a slow fire for about an hour and three-quarters; then remove the neck of veal on to a dish ; strain and free its stock from all grease, boil it down to half-glaze, and use this to baste the veal in the oven until it assumes a bright glossy surface. The neck of veal must now be dished up and garnished with stewed peas, or with glazed onions and carrots ; and the remainder of its glaze must be mixed with some brown sauce, and poured neatly round the base.
Note.—A braised neck of veal may also be garnished with cauliflowers or brocoli, or with asparagus, peas, with Jardinière or Macédoine, and sauced round with Béchamel ; it may be garnished with plain boiled rice, and some curry sauce poured over it.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Braised Neck of Veal.
Trim a neck of veal after the manner indicated in the foregoing articles ; then with a sharp knife pare off the skin and sinew which cover the fillet part of the neck, leaving the ribs well and straightly covered with their fat ; the bared fillet must then be closely larded, and braised according to the precepts for the treatment of a fricandeau ; when done, remove the neck of veal from the brazing-pan on a baking-dish or saucepan, and after having first strained its liquor or stock, freed it from grease, and boiled it down to half-glaze, pour it over the veal, and use it to baste it frequently in the oven in order to give the larding a bright golden aspect, and also to cause it to absorb the whole of the stock, which will tend to give it savour and mellownes : it must now be dished up, and garnished with any of the dressed vegetables or ragouts recommended in the preceding case.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Neck of Veal Larded.
The noix or cushion of veal is that part of the leg to which the udder adheres. In order to separate it from the round or fillet, the leg should be placed on the table with the knuckle from you, then with the left hand take hold of the upper part of the fillet of veal, while with the right hand insert the point of a knife into the separation which divides the noix or cushion from the under part of the fillet; cut the noix away, following the separation right through round to the knuckle, terminating at the left under the udder, which must be allowed to remain in its close adherence to the cushion. Pare off the sinewy parts from that of the cushion which is covered with skin, leaving the udder whole ; and when the fleshy part is laid bare, in a semicircular form, lard this part neatly and closely with fat bacon in the usual way ; and braize the cushion in exactly the same manner as described for fricandeau. When done, dish it up with any of the garnishes prescribed in the preceding cases.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Noix or Cushion of Veal.
Prepare a noix or cushion of veal as directed in the foregoing number, and when done, and brightly glazed in the oven, let it be dished up, and garnished with alternate groups of mushrooms, truffles, and small quenelles made from the trimmings of the veal; pour some Financière sauce over and round, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Cushion of Veal à la St George.
Trim a cushion of veal, and instead of larding it, as recommended in the foregoing numbers, make indentures with a wooden skewer over the trimmed surface of the cushion, and into these holes insert hobnail-like-shaped pieces of black truffle, or red tongue,—or of both alternated : cover the cushion with very thin layers of fat bacon, and placed it in a fricandeau-pan upon a bed of sliced carrot, onions, celery, and garnished bouquet or faggot of herbs, moisten with white stock or water, and braize it gently for about three hours; when done, remove the thin layers of fat bacon, dish it up, garnish with decorated quenelles, and white cocks' combs ; pour some Allemande sauce over and round the base, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Cushion of Veal à la St Cloud.
Order a best end loin of veal, weighing about eight pounds, with a fair proportion of the skirt on; trim it square, and placing some veal-stuffing in an incision made for that purpose in the flap or skirt, wrap it round the kidney fat so as to secure it tightly with skewers and string; envelope the loin in well-greased sheets of clean paper secured with string; spit it, and roast it before a moderate fire for about two hours; when done, dish it up, and pour either some clear brown gravy, or some melted butter sauce coloured with a few spoonfuls of mushroom catsup over it, and serve separate1y—either a ham, or tongue, Bath chap, or some bacon garnished with some sort of vegetable.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Roast Loin of Veal.
Trim, stuff, and truss a loin of veal as described in the foregoing case; place it on a bed of sliced vegetables in a brazing-pan, cover it with a lifting piece of thick white paper—previous1y rubbed over with butter ; moisten with sufficient stock or water to just reach the edge of the surface of the veal, and set it to braize in the oven, or else very gently over a slow fire with live embers on the lid of the pan, taking due care to baste it frequently with its own liquor during the time it is being braized, in order that the meat, by continuously, absorbing the stock impregnated with the flavour of the vegetables and herbs, may thus become full of savour and mellow. When the loin of veal has thus stewed or braised for about three hours, let it be drained and placed on a baking-dish, and after straining and boiling down its own liquor to the consistency of half-glaze, add this to it, and set it in the oven,— continuously basting it with its glaze until it presents a bright, light glossy aspect : the loin of veal must then be dished up, garnished round with tomatas, or mushrooms au gratin, or with glazed onions and carrots : a Jardinière, or a Macécloine ; with Toulouse, Financière, Chipolata, or Milanese ragouts ; or with any kind of dressed vegetable; or with macaroni or potato croquets ; and any of the following sauces may be used to surround it: viz.,—Allemande, Béchamel, Tomata, Italian, Madeira, Financière.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Loin of Veal Braised.
Prepare and roast a loin of veal as directed in No, 404; and, about twenty minutes before it is done, put a clean dish under it, and baste it all over continuously with a pint of cream: this, as the veal continues to turn round before the fire, will cause it to assume a bright, light-brownish crust of a very delicate and delicious aspect; and which, while removing the veal from its spit on to its dish, must be carefully handled so as not to be knocked off ; let the brown deposit which has fallen from the veal during the time it has been basted with cream be detached from the dish which has duly received it, with some white mushroom juice, or water; add this to some white sauce and a little cream, and pour it round the veal.
Note.—It is hardly necessary to say that all veal joints may be advantageously dressed in this fashion.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Loin of Veal à la Creme.
Take a breast, or part of a breast of veal, and remove the tendons without cutting through the veal ; and, in their room, place a rolled pudding composed of veal stuffing, which must be secured by being sewn up with string, or merely fastened in with skewers. Spit the breast of veal, and roast it, if weighing eight pounds about an hour and three-quarters ; and when done, dish it up, pour over it some butter sauce mixed with either a little catsup or browning, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Roast Breast of Veal.
Square the breast of veal by cutting off the rough ends in a straight line, and remove all the bones and tendons. Next, place a long rolled pudding of veal stuffing in the centre of the veal ; roll it up in the form of a bolster; secure its shape by cording it neatly round with string, and set it to braise in the usual way in a braizing-pan ; this will take about three hours ; and when dome, take it up, and having finished glazing it, as directed in the foregoing cases, place it on its dish, garnish it with any of the ragouts mentioned as fit accompaniments for necks or loins of veal, and send to table.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Rolled Breast of Veal.
Let the breast of veal be prepared and braised as described in the foregoing number ; and when done and dished up, garnish it round with alternate groups of glazed young carrots, turnips, onions, young potatoes, and green peas; sauce it round with its own glaze, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Breast of Veal à la Printaniere.
Dress and dish up a breast of veal as in the preceding number ; glaze and garnish it with a ragout à la Chipolata, No. 123, and serve.
Note.—As Chipolata ragout is rather complicated and somewhat expensive, it is as well to remark that what is to be used, and what to be omitted, becomes purely a matter of convenience.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Breast of Veal à la Chipolata.
Place a trimmed log of mutton in a pot of sufficient capacity to hold about six gallons ; add enough cold water to let it swim, and sat it to boil ; after skimming it well, add a handful of salt, a few carrots, turnips, and a couple of parsnips; and when the leg of mutton has boiled about two hours and a half, it will be done. It should then be dished up with a cut paper ruffle on the shank-bone, garnished with mashed turnips mixed with a spoonful of flour, a pat of butter, a gill of cream, nutmeg, pepper and salt ; mould the mashed turnips in the shape of large eggs with two tablespoons—and place them in a circular row round the dish, introducing in between each spoonful of turnip a well-turned piece of boiled carrot; pour some gravy under, and serve capper sauce, separately.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Boiled Leg of Mutton.
Trim a leg of mutton, interlard it with strippets of ham, or bacon, cut a quarter of an inch square, and about six inches long—seasoned with aromatic herb peper and salt ; pare off any ends of bacon which may happen to protrude, and place the leg of mutton in a brazing-pan with carrots, turnips, celery, onions, a garnished faggot of parsley, cloves, mace, and a few peppercorns ; moisten with sufficient stock or water to cover the mutton, and set it to simmer very gently over a slow fire, or in the oven for about three hours, taking care to baste it frequently with its own liquor. Wen done, drained, and placed in a baking-dish, add the stock boiled down, and set in the oven to be glazed—by basting it often with its own essence ; and as soon as it presents a bright, glossy aspect, dish it up with glazed carrots and onions, or a richly-furnished Jardinière ; sauce over with the remainder of its glaze added to some brown sauce, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Braised Leg of Mutton.
Braize a leg of mutton as in the foregoing number and, instead of garnishing it with vegetables, use— either raviolis No. 167, or well-dressed macaroni for that purpose ; pour over the leg of mutton and round the base of the macaroni some Neapolitan sauce, No. 59, and serve scraped horseradish, separately.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Leg of Mutton à la Naolitaine.
Remove the thighbone from a leg of mutton, commencing at the thick end, leaving the leg-end bone in its place; fill the cavity thus left with a preparation consisting of—chopped mushrooms, parsley, shallot, ham, a clove of garlic, nutmeg, pepper, grated lemon-peel, and salt ; stew these with a pat of butter for a few minutes over the fire, and then pound them with two ounces of bread-crumb, four ounces of chopped lean raw meat; add four raw yolks of eggs—pound all thoroughly : fasten the stuffing in by sewing up the opening of the leg, and then place it in a braizing-pan with a gill of oil, two bay-leaves, thyme, marjoram, and two cloves of garlic ; fry the mutton on all sides over the fire until it assumes a uniform brown colour ; then moisten with stock or water sufficient to cover the mutton, and set it to braize gently for three hours, basting it often with its own liquor. When done, remove the leg of mutton on to a baking-dish; strain, remove all grease and boil down its stock, pour it to the mutton, and set it in the oven to finish glazing by frequently basting it with the glaze; and when this is accomplished, dish up the leg of mutton, pour some Provençale sauce, No. 69, mixed with the remainder of the glaze over the mutton; garnish with mushrooms au gratin, and serve.
Braize and dish up a leg of mutton, as directed in the foregoing case, and garnish with haricot beans dressed with Brêtonne sauce, No. 56 ; pour the remainder of the glaze over the mutton, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Leg of Mutton à la Bretonne.
Prepare a leg of mutton as shown in No. 412, pour some Soubise sauce, No. 58, on the centre of the dish; place the leg of mutton thereon, garnish it round with potato croquets, pour the remainder of the glaze on the button, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Leg of Mutton à la Soubise.
Saw off the scrag·end and chine-bone of a neck of mutton, and shorten the ribs to about four inches in length; next, pare off the excess of fat to about half an inch in thickness, and boil the neck in plenty of water and a little salt, with three carrots and as many turnips; and when done, dish it up, surrounded with spoonfuls of mashed turnips, and the boiled carrots cut into neat shapes and placed between the mashed turnips ; pour some gravy over the mutton, and serve caper sauce separately.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Boiled Neck of Mutton.
Trim a neck of mutton as in the preceding number and put it to braize in a stew pan with carrot, onion, celery, and a garnished bouquet of parsley ; moisten with stock or water, and set this to simmer very slowly over a moderate fire for about an hour and a half; and while the mutton is braizing, put a dozen peeled potatoes and six onions in a stewpan, with a pat of butter and some pepper and salt; moisten with a quart of stock or water, and set these to boil sharply over the fire, taking care that the potatoes are kept as whole a possible. When the neck of mutton is done quite tender, dish it up ; place the potatoes and onions neatly round it ; sauce it over with the reduced stock from the mutton, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Neck of Mutton à l'Irlandaise.
Trim a neck of mutton as for braizing, and afterwards, with a sharp knife lay the fillet or fleshy part quite bare by removing its covering of fat and sinew ; the bare part must then be closely larded with bacon, and pickled in marinade for at least two days (see No. 299). When sufficiently saturated with the marinade, it must be braized as directed for legs of mutton; and when done, glazed and dished up, it is to be garnished with potatoes turned in the form of large olives and fried in butter, of a light colour ; pour some chêvreuil sauce, No. 29, over the neck of mutton, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Neck of Mutton Roebuck Fashion.
Braize a larded neck of mutton (without having pickled it) as in the preceding case, and when done, dish it up on some thick Soubise sauce, No. 58 ; garnish it round with either fried potatoes, or potato croquets; pour its own glaze over the neck of mutton, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Neck of Mutton à la Soubise.
Prepare and braize a neck of mutton as described in No. 419, and when done and glazed, dish it up ; garnish it round with German quenelles, No. 356, and stewed prunes ; pour some chêvreuil sauce, No. 29, over the mutton, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Neck of Mutton à l'Allemande.
Trim a neck of mutton and lard it, or not—for this purpose; if the neck of mutton is intended to be dressed plain, let it be neatly trimmed as for boiling, braized as recommended in No. 418, and when dished up, on a purée of sorrel, No. 119 A., previously placed in the centre of the dish, garnish it round with a border of glazed spring-carrots ; pour its reduced stock over the neck of mutton, and serve.
Note.—Braized necks of mutton, whether larded or plain, may also be served, either with any kind of purée of vegetables, or, any vegetable garnish, such as glazed onions, turnips, Jardinière, &c., dressed tomatas, &c.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Neck of Mutton with Purée of Sorrel.
Procure the head and pluck of a fresh-killed sheep ; split the head into halves, remove the brains; steep the whole in water, and wash them thoroughly. Next, place the head, lights, heart, and liver in a stewpan with carrot, onion, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, six cloves, mace, a few Jamaica peppercorns, and a small handful of salt ; moisten with sufficient common broth or water to make the contents of the stew pan swim, and then set the whole to braize slowly over the fire for out an hour and a half. When the head, &c., are done, take them up carefully on a dish, strain the broth, and after having removed all grease, boil down one-half to thin glaze, and with the remainder make some brown sauce. The halves of the head should be trimmed, seasoned with chopped parsley and shallot, pepper and salt, egged over and bread-crumbed, and then, after having sprinkled some clarified butter over the surface the cheek only, should be again bread-crumbed and placed on a buttered sautapan for the purpose of being baked of a golden-brown colour. The liver, lights, and heart. must be chopped up into fine mince, and when the sauce has been boiled down to its proper consistency, add the mince, some chopped parsley, mushrooms, and shalots, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a dessert-spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell's Oude sauce ; stir well together over the fire until quite hot, and then pile up the mince in the centre of the dish ; place the pieces of head upon this, garnish the base with thin strippets of frizzled bacon, and serve.
Note.—The brains—after being cleaned—should be boiled in vinegar and water, with a little salt, for a few minutes, cut in slices, and placed between the halves of the head.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Sheep's Head Galimaufried.
Procure, if possible, a haunch of four-year-old South-down or Scotch mutton. Weather permitting, it should have hung in a cool larder for about ten days : let it be trimmed by removing the epidermis or transparent skin which covers the fat; saw off the shank-bone, cover it with two large sheets of well-greased paper, place it in a cradle-spit, and roast it before a good fire for about two hours and a quarter : the joint must be kept at a distance of about eighteen inches from the fire; it must be basted with dripping every five minutes; and about ten minutes before being taken up, first remove the paper which covers it, dredge it all over with flour, shake a little salt over the surface, and with a large spoon pierced with holes, drop some dissolved butter over it, in order to give it that deliciously brown frothy aspect so well appreciated by all lovers of a well roasted English joint.
Note.—Irish, Welsh, and Devonshire mutton also possess great claims to the notice of epicures; and when obtained in perfection, are worthy of a wide-spread reputation.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Roast Haunch of Mutton.
In the selection of a saddle or, indeed, of any other joint of mutton, follow the instructions given in the preceding article; and, as regards the roasting, take the same precautions, bearing in mind, that about an hour and a half will suicide to roast a saddle weighing about ten pounds.
Note.—Great diversity of opinion exists as to which is positively the best method of carving a saddle of mutton and so determinately convinced are both advocates on this knotty question, that with all my experience in these matters, I am loth to pronounce a verdict ;—not from any fear of finding myself in a minority on either side, for I believe that in this case, at least, numbers are equally balanced; but for this reason—that I well know that nobody is ever convinced by controversy.—Notwithstanding all that precedes, I must just venture most humbly to explain why I advocate the transverse—instead of the long—or parallel cut. Everybody may easily acquaint himself with the fact that the filaments or fibres of the grain of the meat run parallel with the spine-bone of a saddle of mutton ; and, consequently, that with the elongated slice so cut,—when divided on the plate into morsels for mastication,—the teeth must necessarily meet with a greater amount of resistance when they have to cut through a mass of close fibres, which in this form are presented for their incision, than would be the case if each side of the saddle were to be cut out in slanting slices—cutlet-wise, by making an incision along the spine-bone, and then cutting the slices from that line—crosswise, through the sides. By this means you obtain a slice of mutton with its fair accompaniment of delicate skirt fat ; and from the very fact that the fibres are being severed crosswise, the teeth have only to press lightly in order to devoid the morsel, and are consequently relieved from much labour. What is infinately of more consequence, the meat by this simple and much more economical mode of carving, has a better chance of eating tender ; and besides that, every guest is served with fairness.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Roast Saddle of Mutton.
Salt a shoulder of mutton, and turn it over in its brine every morning for about six days ; at the expiration of this time, it will be fit to dress : it must be put on to boil in a pot with cold water, a carrot, onion, celery, and a garnished bouquet of parsley, and boiled very gently for about an hour and three-quarters, and when done, dished up with a border of boiled carrots and parsnips, and smothered with onion sauce, No. 55.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Boiled Shoulder of Mutton.
Saw off the stump shank from a shoulder of mutton ; remove the blade-bone with care—so as not to disturb the outer shape of the shoulder by making a hole through it. Fill the cavity occasioned by the removal of the blade-bone with veal stuffing No. 294; sew up the opening by gathering up the sides of the meat with trussing-needle and string, drawing them up—something like a purse—and fastening the ends so as to secure it in a plump shape or form. Next, let the shoulder of mutton be either nicely roasted or braized; and when dished up, pour over it some piquante sauce, No. 22, and serve hot.
Note.—Shoulders of mutton prepared after this fashion may also be served as directed in the variety of forms for dressing legs of mutton.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Stuffed Shoulder of Mutton.
Loins of mutton subjected to the same treatment of dressing as those indicated for necks of mutton may be served according to similar fashions, and also garnished it the same sauces and accompaniments as are recommended in all those cases.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Loins of Mutton.
This is generally prepared from the remains of a saddle of mutton, left from the joint which has been dressed for a previous day's dinner, and becomes therefore a most economical dish, a circumstance which by no means detracts from its recommendation to the notice of every epicure. Cut all the meat from the saddle of mutton, and mince it fine; put this into a stewpan with enough brown sauce to moisten it; season with chopped parsley and shallot, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a spoonful of Oude sauce ; stir over the fire for about ten minutes until quite hot ; and while this is going on, prepare the pulp of a dozen baked potatoes mixed with two ounces of butter, four yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper and salt ; stir this over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the stewpan, and thus becomes a rather firm kind of paste ; roll it with flour on the table, and with it form an ornamental sort of wall on the dish round the saddle-of-mutton bone—so as to give it the appearance of its original shape ; place the mince in the centre; strew some raspings, or fried bread-crumbs all over the top ; egg over the potato wall, and put it in a sharp oven to bake it of a light-brown colour; when done, place six or eight delicately-poached eggs on the surface; pour some gravy or poivrade sauce round the base, and serve.
Note.—Legs, loins, or shoulders of mutton may be turned to the same account, giving each its original shape by using the potato-paste for that purpose.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Saddle of Mutton à la Polonaise.
Saw off the shank-bone, and also the chine-bone—along the fillet part of the neck; and with a saw partially sever the rib-bones, midway between the edge of the breast and the spine-bone. Cover the forequartcr of lamb with buttered paper, and secure it in an even position on the spit; roast it before a brisk fire for about an hour and a half, and about ten minutes before taking it up, dredge it with flour and a little salt, and baste it over with a little dissolved butter, to froth and brown it of an appetising colour. It must then be dished up with a cut-paper ruffle on the shank-bone, gravy must be poured under it, and mint sauce served separately.
Note.—Chop a double handful of clean mint-leaves, and mix them in a sauce-boat, with half a gill of vinegar and an ounce of moist sugar.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Ribs, or as it is sometimes called, target of lamb, consists of the breast and neck joints left adhering together in their natural position. The chine-bone should be sawed off, and the flat bones removed from the meaty part of the neck ; the ribs are to be partially sawed through, so that when the lamb is cooked, it becomes an easy matter to separate the breast from the neck or superior rib-bones. Cover the ribs of lamb with buttered paper; run two iron skewers through it crosswise, and having secured it in an even position on the spit, roast it before a brisk fire for about an hour, according to the instructions contained in the foregoing number.
Note.—When roast lamb is intended to be eaten cold, the addition of chopped parsley, and a little pepper and salt sprinkled over it after it is removed from the fire, gives it a more inviting aspect.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Ribs or Target of Lamb.
Select a leg of a fresh-killed lamb, well furnished with white fat, boil it in water with a tablespoonful of salt, carrot, celery, onion and turnip ; it will be done in about an hour and a quarter, and should be dished up surrounded either with dressed spinach, and the addition of spring carrots and turnips, or else with the latter only, or with cauliflowers; a little white sauce, or maître-d’hôtel sauce, should be poured over the lamb, and a cut-paper ruffle placed on the shank·bone.
Note.—Legs of lamb may also be dressed in every variety of form recommended for the treatment of leg of mutton.
When it happens that you have a cold shoulder, or part of a shoulder of lamb, left from a previous day's dinner, take a knife and score it twice crosswise, by cutting incisions down to the bone; season with pepper and salt, grill it over a clear fire, turning it frequently for about twenty minutes. and when done, dish it up wit piquante sauce.
See Sheep’s Head, No. 423.
Saw off the nob, or knuckle-bone, from the shank of a shoulder of lamb; remove the blade-bones without cutting through the meat or skin which covers it ; fill the cavity thus occasioned with well-seasoned forcemeat ; gather up the edges of the shoulder by means of a trussing-needle and small twine, by drawing them up in purse-like fashion, so as to securely hold the forcemeat within the cavity of the shoulder. Next, with the point of a small knife make a circular incision all round the inner part of the plump cushion, to the depth of the eighth of an inch, and then dextrously shave off the superficial skin which covers the inner part of the circle thus traced out : this bared part of the shoulder is to be closely and meatly larded in the usual way, and braized as directed for necks of mutton larded ; it is also to finished in the same manner, and when dished up should be garnished with a Toulouse ragout, No. 105.
Note.—Shoulders of lamb, either larded or not, prepared as above, may also be garnished as indicated for legs and necks of mutton.
For this purpose it is necessary to bone, that is to say, to remove all the bones from the saddle of lamb ; and when this has been effected without injury to the upper part of the skin of the saddle, let it be filled in with forcemeat, or Godiveau, No. 190 : this is to be securely fastened in, by neatly and carefully rolling up the forced saddle of lamb in a napkin spread with butter, and then again, by tightly securing the ends with tied string. The saddle thus far prepared, must be braized in white stock, with the usual complement of stock vegetables, for about an hour and a half ; and when done, and taken out of the braize, must be left in the napkin, and pressed between two dishes with a fourteen-pound weight on the top dish : the saddle must be allowed to remain in the cold until set quite firm ; it may then be removed from the napkin, slightly trimmed, made hot in a little of the stock without boiling (as that might deform it), placed on its dish, garnished round with four lamb’s-breads larded, and four decorated quenelles, placed alternately, some truffles, cockʼs combs, and button mushrooms ; glaze the saddle, pour some Allemande sauce round the base, and serve.
Note.—Saddles of lamb prepared in this fashion may also be garnished with any kind of dressed vegetables.
Prepare a saddle of lamb as directed in the foregoing case; and when pressed, cold, and trimmed, place it on a buttered baking-sheet, mask it over with a coating of stiff Allemande sauce, and, as soon as this is set perfectly cold and firm, egg it over with a brush dipped in beaten egg; crumb over the surface with some fried bread-crunnbs of a very light colour, mixed with a spoonful of grated Parmesan cheese : and about half an hour before dinner-time, set the saddle in a rather slow oven to get warm, taking care to prevent it from gaining a dark colour. When done, garnish it on its dish. with any of the ragouts recommended in the preceding number.
Procure a lambʼs paunch well cleansed, and perfectly white—any butcher will oblige you with it. Next, parboil a lambs pluck in water with salt and pepper, until done, and chop it fine. Place a dozen chopped onions with four ounces of butter in a stewpan, and fry these over a slow fire of a very light colour; to these add the chopped liver, lights. &c., one pound of oatmeal, one pound of chopped beef-suet, some chopped thyme and parsley, nutmeg, pepper and salt ; stir altogether, and with this fill up the lambʼs paunch, which must have been previously pressed in a cloth to absorb all watery moisture. Carefully fasten any holes that may exist in the paunch, by tying them up with string, and then tie up the Haggis in a cloth much in the same manner as you would a pudding, and boil it in a large stewpan with enough stock or water to cover it ; the haggis will require about three hours very gentle boiling to cook it; when done, take it carefully out of the pot, and gently remove it from the napkin on to its dish, and serve it while it is hot, and in perfection.
Saw off the shank-bone from a pickled leg of dairy fed pork, and put it on to boil in cold water, with the carrots, turnips, and parsnips intended to be served with it, and also a quart of split peas previously washed and soaked over night for the purpose ; let the peas be tied up loosely in a napkin, and put in the pot to boil with the pork. A leg of pork weighing about six pounds would require about two hours' gentle boiling. When the pork is done, take it up on to its dish, garnish it round with the carrots, turnips, and cut into neat shapes; pour some gravy over the pork, and serve the peas-pudding on a separate dish.
Note.—If the peas for the pudding are put on to boil at the same time as the pork, they will be done in about abhor and a half. They are then to be taken out of the napkin, rubbed through a wire sieve or colander, mixed with a pat of butter, three yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and tied up as any other pudding, in a napkin previously well buttered and floured; and again placed in the pot with the pork, to continue boiling until the pork is done.
Pickle a leg of pork with four ounces of saltpetre, ditto of moist sugar, half a pint of vinegar, cloves, mace, sweet basil, and marjoram, thyme and bay-leaves, and the usual quantity of common salt, and allow it to remain in this pickle for about ten days: boil the leg of pork as directed in the foregoing article, and when done, dish it up with dressed sauërkraut, or stewed red cabbage; surround it with a border of glazed carrots and onions, pour some poivrade sauce over and round the pork, and serve.
Make a wide incision just below the knuckle of a leg of pork—between the skin and flesh—and fill this with sage-and-onion stuffing, No. 297 ; sew up the opening with twine ; score the pork all over by cutting the rind through in narrow bands with a sharp knife, then spit the joint, and roast it for about two hours, basting it frequently ; and when done, dish it up with brown gravy, and serve sage-and-onion gravy in one sauce-boat, and apple sauce in another.
This should be lightly sprinkled with salt the day before it is to be dressed for table; it must then have a long iron skewer thrust through it lengthwise, and fastened at each end on the spit, and be roasted for about an hour and a half before a brisk fire; when done dish up with brown gravy, and garnish with brown potatoes—baked with a little dripping in the oven serve apple sauce, and sage-and-onion in separate sauce boats.
Roast necks and loins of pork are to be dressed according to the foregoing directions.
No. 443.—HOW TO PICKLE PORK.
Pork should be pickled while perfectly fresh : it is a very simple process, for it requires only to be rubbed every day with plenty of common salt, for four or five mornings; but, in order to prevent the possibility of failure, be it remembered that strict cleanliness is indispensable to success; and do not forget that each morning previously to your going to the pickling tub, it is essential that you should wash your hands in cold water. About ten days' salting suffices to pickle pork and it must be turned over in the brine every morning, so that it may become equally saturated.
Fill the paunch of the sucking pig with stuffing prepared as follows: viz.,—chop fine four onions and a dozen sage-leaves ; fry these with two ounces of butter over a slow fire for a few minutes, then add half a pound of bread-crumbs, two yolks of eggs, pepper and salt. And thus, the pig being stuffed, and the paunch sewn up securely, roast it before a brisk fire for about two hours ; basting it frequently—by means of a paste-brush dipped in salad-oil. When the pig is done, and before removing it from the spit, cut if the head, and divide the pig into halves, by sawing it straight down the spine. Dish up the pig with brown gravy ; to some of the stuffing add the brains and a few spoonfuls of melted butter and serve this sauce separately.
In this case the pig must be stuffed with truffles prepared as follows: viz.,—thoroughly clean and peel one pound of English truffles, the cost of which would be about three shillings ; cut each truffle into four pieces, and place these in a stewpan with half a pound of chopped and pounded fat bacon, chopped thyme and bay-leaf, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and one small clove of garlic ; simmer the whole over a slow fire for ten minutes, and with these truffles, &c., fill the paunch of the sucking-pig. Having securely sewn up the opening, roast it as directed in the preceding case, and when done, and dished up, pour over it some périgeux sauce, No. 67, and serve.
Prepare chestnut stubbing as follows: viz.,—scald, peel, and scrape fifty chestnuts, boil them for about twenty minutes in a pint of milk, a bit of butter, and a little salt; and when nearly done, drain the chestnuts dry, and mix them with one pound of highly—seasoned sausage-meat. Having filled the paunch of the sucking-pig with this stuffing, roast it as in the foregoing cases. When done, dish it up with a Chipolata ragoût round it.
Note.—Roast sucking-pig may also be served with piquante, tomato, Provençal, poivrade, Italian, or ham sauce.
Bath chaps—or pig’s faces cured as bacon-—are much esteemed by some epicures, and are very good substitutes for ham with roast turkey, &c., especially in an economical point of view. When about to dress a bath chap, it should be first soaked in cold water for three or four hours previously to its being boiled for about an hour and a half in water ; when done, pull off the rind, shake some brown raspings of bread all over the cheek, dish it up with some kind of green vegetables round it, and serve.
A chine of pork is that part which is cut from the bacon-hog (from the upper part of the spine), between the shoulders; it consists of more fat than lean, and is merely salted for about ten days in common brine ; it is to be cooked by boiling it in plenty of water similarly to bacon, and served up garnished with greens, as an accompaniment to roast turkey, &c.