Francatelli Recipes for Raised Pies, Chapter 18
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Francatelli Recipes for Raised Pies — This page gives you the entire contents of the Eighteenth Chapter: Raised Pies and Timbales from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
CHAPTER XVIII.
No. 728.—CHRISTMAS PIE.
First, bone a fowl, a wild duck, a pheasant, and two woodcocks, &c.; having spread them open on the table, season them with aromatic herbs, No. 671 ; pepper and salt ; garnish each with some forcemeat, No. 188 ; sew them up with small twine ; place them on a sautapan with a little clarified butter, and set them to bake in a moderate heat, until they are done through ; when they must be withdrawn from the oven, and put in the cool. Mean while, place the carcasses in a stewpan, with two calf’s feet, carrot, celery, onion, a clove of garlic, two bay leaves, thyme, cloves, mace, and a little salt; fill up with four quarts of water; boil, skim, and then set this by the side to continue gently boiling for three hours, when it must be strained, freed from grease, and boiled down to thin glaze, and kept in reserve.
Make four pounds of hot-water paste, No. 949, and use this to line a raised pie-mould (see Adams’ Illustratins) ; line the inside of the pie with some of the forcemeat ; arrange the baked fowl, duck, &c., in the centre, placing at the same time layers of forcemeat and seasoning, until all the preparation is used up ; put a cover of paste on the top; weld it all round ; cut the edge even ; pinch it with pastry-pincers (see Adams’ Illustrations) ; ornament the top with leaves of paste ; egg it over, and bake the pie for about two hours and a half ; and when it comes out of the oven, pour in the game-glaze through a funnel ; put it in the larder to get cold ; and previously to sending it to table, remove the lid, garnish the top with aspic jelly ; place the pie on a napkin, in its dish, and ornament the base with a border of fresh-picked parsley.
Note.—The addition of truffles would be an improvement.
No. 729.—YORKSHIRE PIE.
Bone a goose, a hare, two grouse, and four snipes ; spread these out on the table; season with aromatic spices, No. 948; pepper and salt; fill them with pork-sausage-meat prepared for the purpose ; sew them up with string ; bake them until done, and use them to finish a pie, in exactly the same manner as indicated in the preceding number, the only difference being, that you must add some thick slices of cooked ham, and use sausage-meat instead of the forcemeat therein recommended. When the pie is baked, pour in the reduced stock from the bones ; and when cold the next day, garnish the top with aspic jelly.
No. 730.—DEVONSHIRE PIE.
Make two pounds of short-paste, No. 951, and with this line a buttered oblong tin mould ; fill the pie with alternate slices of griskin of pork, of bacon, and apples ; season between each layer with chopped onion, pepper and salt, and chopped sage-leaves ; pour in a little good gravy ; cover over the top with paste ; weld it round the edge; cut it even; pinch it round; egg it over, and bake it for about an hour and a half.
No. 731.—LEICESTERSHIRE PIE.
Cut up the pork in square pieces—fat and lean in equal proportions ; season with pepper and salt, and a small quantity of chopped sage-leaf, and set this aside on a plate: next, make two pounds of hot-water paste, using fresh hog’s-lard instead of butter for the purpose ; and with this paste line a tin pie mould—previously greased inside with butter ; fill up the pie with the seasoned pork; put the lid on; weld it round ; cut the edge even; pinch it, egg it over the top, and bake it for about in hour and three-quarters. The pie is supposed to contain about three pounds of meat.
No. 732.—FRENCH TIMBALE.
Daub or interlard—that is, run long square pieces of seasoned bacon by means of a large daubing, or larding-pin (see Adams’ Illustrations), through about three pounds of white veal cut from the leg ; cut this in thick slices across the grain of the meat, and put them aside on a plate. Next prepare some forcemeat, No. 188 ; and make two pounds of short-paste, No. 952, and use two-thirds of this to line a plain round or oval mould previously greased with butter : line the pie with a thin coating of the forcemeat, and fill it with alternate layers of the slices of veal, cooked ham, and forcemeat, taking care to season with aromatic spices, No. 671, and pepper and salt in between each layer ; cover in the timbale with a rolled-out piece of the paste; weld the edge; cut it even, and pinch it round with pastry pincers (see Adams’ Illustrations) ; ornament the surface with leaves cut out of the paste ; egg it over, and bake it for about two hours and a half ; and about half an hour after it is removed from the oven, make a hole at the top, to pour in the thin glaze made from the bones and trimmings of the veal and a calfʼs foot, &c.
No. 733.—RICHMOND EEL-PIE.
Skin, draw, and cleanse two good-sized Thames eels ; trim off the fins, and cut them up in pieces about three inches long, and put these in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, some chopped mushrooms, parsley, and a very title shalot, nutmeg, pepper and salt, two glasses of sherry, one of Harvey sauce, and barely enough water to cover the surface of the eels ; set them on the fire, and as soon as they come to a boil, let them be removed, and the pieces of eels placed carefully in a pie dish ; add two ounces of butter, kneaded with two ounces of flour, to the sauce ; and having stirred it on the fire to thicken, add the juice of a lemon, and pour it over the pieces of eels in the pie-dish ; place some hard yolks of eggs on the top; cover with puff-paste; ornament the top ; egg it over, bake for about an hour, and serve, either hot or cold.
No. 734.—TO CURE HAMS.
Prepare the following ingredients in the pickling trough: viz.,—to six pounds of common salt add four ounces of saltpetre, two ounces of sal-prunella, three quarters of a pound of moist sugar, twenty bay-leaves, thyme, marjoram, and winter-savoury in proportion; one ounce of bruised cloves and mace, and an ounce of Jamaica peppercorns, and four cloves of garlic. With clean cold hands rub this mixture thoroughly all over the hams for five successive mornings; and then add some wine lees : the hams should remain in this pickle for ten days longer, being turned over every morning in order that they may become well impregnated with the flavour.
At the end of a fortnight, the hams being sufficiently pickled and salted, they must be put in press between boards, with heavy weights to press them flat ; and at the end of twenty-four hours they must be rubbed over with pea-meal in which has been mixed a little salt ; they are then to be smoked, for which purpose they should be arranged upon racks in a square shed so built that none of the smoke can issue except through the hole left purposely at the top for a chimney : the hams must placed at about five feet from the fire, which is to be managed as follows: viz.,—first, place small heaps of dry red sawdust mixed with a small proportion of juniper berries, or branches, at about a foot distance from each other ; and as soon as the heaps of sawdust are well lighted, lay some branches of wood containing sap across them ; this not only increases the amount of smoke, but it also gives flavour to the hams : the smoking must last about five days. The hams, when removed from the smoking-kiln, are to be placed in a cool, dry atmosphere, and will be fittest for dressing in about six months after curing.
Let it be understood that the quantity of ingredients named in the first part of these directions would serve for a couple of hams only; but when curing large quantities of hams, it is most proper to calculate the different proportions of the ingredients, by allowing four ounces of salt to the pound of meat.
No. 735.—TO CURE BACON.
Bear in mind that cleanliness is an important consideration in the operation of salting; it is necessary therefore to pay strict attention to the scalding out the bacon troughs before using them, and also to wash your hands in cold water with soap previously to your turning the bacon over in the troughs, and rubbing it with salt, &c. The process is to be managed as follows :— to every pound of meat allow four ounces of salt; and to every ten pounds of salt, six ounces of saltpetre, two ounces of sal-prunella, and half a pound of white sugar; rub the salt, &c., well into the bacon every morning for about twelve successive days, and at the end of that time let the sides of bacon be pressed between boards to keep them flat, for twenty-four hours ; after which, rub them well over with peameal mixed with salt, and smoke them in the kiln in the same manner as recommended for hams.
No. 736.—WELSH HAMS.
A Welsh ham consists of a fat leg of mutton, cured and smoked like hams; for the preparation of which follow the directions contained in Np. 734; and when about to dress Welsh hams for the table, remember that a piece of fat bacon should be cooked in the same pot, to nourish them and prevent them from being dry, and also to be cut in slices and served with these hams, as they have little or no fat of their own.
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
Francatelli's Chapter XVIII: Raised Pies and Timbales.
CHAPTER XVIII.
RAISED PIES AND TIMBALES.
First, bone a fowl, a wild duck, a pheasant, and two woodcocks, &c.; having spread them open on the table, season them with aromatic herbs, No. 671 ; pepper and salt ; garnish each with some forcemeat, No. 188 ; sew them up with small twine ; place them on a sautapan with a little clarified butter, and set them to bake in a moderate heat, until they are done through ; when they must be withdrawn from the oven, and put in the cool. Mean while, place the carcasses in a stewpan, with two calf’s feet, carrot, celery, onion, a clove of garlic, two bay leaves, thyme, cloves, mace, and a little salt; fill up with four quarts of water; boil, skim, and then set this by the side to continue gently boiling for three hours, when it must be strained, freed from grease, and boiled down to thin glaze, and kept in reserve.
Make four pounds of hot-water paste, No. 949, and use this to line a raised pie-mould (see Adams’ Illustratins) ; line the inside of the pie with some of the forcemeat ; arrange the baked fowl, duck, &c., in the centre, placing at the same time layers of forcemeat and seasoning, until all the preparation is used up ; put a cover of paste on the top; weld it all round ; cut the edge even ; pinch it with pastry-pincers (see Adams’ Illustrations) ; ornament the top with leaves of paste ; egg it over, and bake the pie for about two hours and a half ; and when it comes out of the oven, pour in the game-glaze through a funnel ; put it in the larder to get cold ; and previously to sending it to table, remove the lid, garnish the top with aspic jelly ; place the pie on a napkin, in its dish, and ornament the base with a border of fresh-picked parsley.
Note.—The addition of truffles would be an improvement.
Bone a goose, a hare, two grouse, and four snipes ; spread these out on the table; season with aromatic spices, No. 948; pepper and salt; fill them with pork-sausage-meat prepared for the purpose ; sew them up with string ; bake them until done, and use them to finish a pie, in exactly the same manner as indicated in the preceding number, the only difference being, that you must add some thick slices of cooked ham, and use sausage-meat instead of the forcemeat therein recommended. When the pie is baked, pour in the reduced stock from the bones ; and when cold the next day, garnish the top with aspic jelly.
Make two pounds of short-paste, No. 951, and with this line a buttered oblong tin mould ; fill the pie with alternate slices of griskin of pork, of bacon, and apples ; season between each layer with chopped onion, pepper and salt, and chopped sage-leaves ; pour in a little good gravy ; cover over the top with paste ; weld it round the edge; cut it even; pinch it round; egg it over, and bake it for about an hour and a half.
Cut up the pork in square pieces—fat and lean in equal proportions ; season with pepper and salt, and a small quantity of chopped sage-leaf, and set this aside on a plate: next, make two pounds of hot-water paste, using fresh hog’s-lard instead of butter for the purpose ; and with this paste line a tin pie mould—previously greased inside with butter ; fill up the pie with the seasoned pork; put the lid on; weld it round ; cut the edge even; pinch it, egg it over the top, and bake it for about in hour and three-quarters. The pie is supposed to contain about three pounds of meat.
Daub or interlard—that is, run long square pieces of seasoned bacon by means of a large daubing, or larding-pin (see Adams’ Illustrations), through about three pounds of white veal cut from the leg ; cut this in thick slices across the grain of the meat, and put them aside on a plate. Next prepare some forcemeat, No. 188 ; and make two pounds of short-paste, No. 952, and use two-thirds of this to line a plain round or oval mould previously greased with butter : line the pie with a thin coating of the forcemeat, and fill it with alternate layers of the slices of veal, cooked ham, and forcemeat, taking care to season with aromatic spices, No. 671, and pepper and salt in between each layer ; cover in the timbale with a rolled-out piece of the paste; weld the edge; cut it even, and pinch it round with pastry pincers (see Adams’ Illustrations) ; ornament the surface with leaves cut out of the paste ; egg it over, and bake it for about two hours and a half ; and about half an hour after it is removed from the oven, make a hole at the top, to pour in the thin glaze made from the bones and trimmings of the veal and a calfʼs foot, &c.
Skin, draw, and cleanse two good-sized Thames eels ; trim off the fins, and cut them up in pieces about three inches long, and put these in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, some chopped mushrooms, parsley, and a very title shalot, nutmeg, pepper and salt, two glasses of sherry, one of Harvey sauce, and barely enough water to cover the surface of the eels ; set them on the fire, and as soon as they come to a boil, let them be removed, and the pieces of eels placed carefully in a pie dish ; add two ounces of butter, kneaded with two ounces of flour, to the sauce ; and having stirred it on the fire to thicken, add the juice of a lemon, and pour it over the pieces of eels in the pie-dish ; place some hard yolks of eggs on the top; cover with puff-paste; ornament the top ; egg it over, bake for about an hour, and serve, either hot or cold.
Prepare the following ingredients in the pickling trough: viz.,—to six pounds of common salt add four ounces of saltpetre, two ounces of sal-prunella, three quarters of a pound of moist sugar, twenty bay-leaves, thyme, marjoram, and winter-savoury in proportion; one ounce of bruised cloves and mace, and an ounce of Jamaica peppercorns, and four cloves of garlic. With clean cold hands rub this mixture thoroughly all over the hams for five successive mornings; and then add some wine lees : the hams should remain in this pickle for ten days longer, being turned over every morning in order that they may become well impregnated with the flavour.
At the end of a fortnight, the hams being sufficiently pickled and salted, they must be put in press between boards, with heavy weights to press them flat ; and at the end of twenty-four hours they must be rubbed over with pea-meal in which has been mixed a little salt ; they are then to be smoked, for which purpose they should be arranged upon racks in a square shed so built that none of the smoke can issue except through the hole left purposely at the top for a chimney : the hams must placed at about five feet from the fire, which is to be managed as follows: viz.,—first, place small heaps of dry red sawdust mixed with a small proportion of juniper berries, or branches, at about a foot distance from each other ; and as soon as the heaps of sawdust are well lighted, lay some branches of wood containing sap across them ; this not only increases the amount of smoke, but it also gives flavour to the hams : the smoking must last about five days. The hams, when removed from the smoking-kiln, are to be placed in a cool, dry atmosphere, and will be fittest for dressing in about six months after curing.
Let it be understood that the quantity of ingredients named in the first part of these directions would serve for a couple of hams only; but when curing large quantities of hams, it is most proper to calculate the different proportions of the ingredients, by allowing four ounces of salt to the pound of meat.
Bear in mind that cleanliness is an important consideration in the operation of salting; it is necessary therefore to pay strict attention to the scalding out the bacon troughs before using them, and also to wash your hands in cold water with soap previously to your turning the bacon over in the troughs, and rubbing it with salt, &c. The process is to be managed as follows :— to every pound of meat allow four ounces of salt; and to every ten pounds of salt, six ounces of saltpetre, two ounces of sal-prunella, and half a pound of white sugar; rub the salt, &c., well into the bacon every morning for about twelve successive days, and at the end of that time let the sides of bacon be pressed between boards to keep them flat, for twenty-four hours ; after which, rub them well over with peameal mixed with salt, and smoke them in the kiln in the same manner as recommended for hams.
A Welsh ham consists of a fat leg of mutton, cured and smoked like hams; for the preparation of which follow the directions contained in Np. 734; and when about to dress Welsh hams for the table, remember that a piece of fat bacon should be cooked in the same pot, to nourish them and prevent them from being dry, and also to be cut in slices and served with these hams, as they have little or no fat of their own.