Francatelli Recipes for Poultry and Game, Chapter 10
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Francatelli Recipes for Poultry and Game — This page gives you the entire contents of the Tenth Chapter: Removes of Poultry and Game from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
For the unfamiliar, removes are typically the main meat part of the main course, typically large dishes with garnishes that are palced at the top or bottom end of a dinner table for carving or serving (or which, in Victorian times, might be presented and served on a side-table).
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
CHAPTER X.
No. 464.—ROAST TURKEY.
DRAW the turkey by making an incision at the back of the neck, and cutting away the vent to the extent of an inch in circumference ; and, thrusting the middle fingers of both hands simultaneously through these openings, draw out the whole of the inside, reserving the liver and gizzard, which after being freed from gall and digester (the pouch of the gizzard containing stones, &c,), are to be reserved for the purpose of tucking each respectively through a slit made in the wings. Cut off the head and neck, scald the feet, and pull if the rough dirty skin ; cut away the claws ; fill the inside and pouch of the turkey with sausage-meat, or veal-stuffing; and when trussed with skewers or string, roast it before a good fire, basting it frequently to keep its gravy in and by this means prevent it from eating dry, which is a very general complaint with roast turkeys,—not from any want of moisture in the flesh of the bird, but from neglecting to baste it well while it is being roasted. And when the turkey is done, dish it up with fried sausages round it ; pour some good brown gravy over, and serve bread sauce, No. 70, separately.
No. 465.—TURKEY A LA CHIPOLATA.
Stuff and roast a turkey as directed in the foregoing number; dish it up with a Chipolata ragout, No. 123 ; garnish also with a border of decorated quenelles, when the dish is intended for a grand display of taste, &c.
No. 466.—TURKEY A LA PROVENCALE.
Prepare the following kind of stuffing: viz.,—chop and parboil for a few minutes only, six large onions ; drain them in a sieve, and put them in a stew pan with four ounces of butter, the crumb of two French rolls previously soaked in milk, chopped parsley, nutmeg, pepper and salt, six yolks of eggs, a few truffles cut in slices ; stir the whole over the fire until set in a comparatively firm paste, and use this stuffing to fill the turkey with ; truss and roast it in the usual way, and when done, and dished up, pour some périgueux or truffle, or tomata sauce, over it, and serve. This, when properly cooked, is decidedly one of the best things it is possible to place on a dinner-table.
No. 467.—BOILED TURKEY.
Truss the turkey for boiling, place it in a large stew-pan, with carrot, onion stuck with six cloves, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, a few peppercorns, and a small handful of salt ; moisten with white stock or water, just enough to cover the turkey ; boil gently until done tender ; drain thoroughly, dish up, pour either parsley sauce or celery, or oyster sauce, over the turkey ; garnish it round with alternate slices of tongue or fried bacon, and veal stuffing previously boiled in a cloth, rolled up in the form of a short rolling-pin, and afterwards cut up in slices.
No. 468.—BOILED TURKEY A LA YORKSHIRE.
Cut of the legs of a turkey ; scald, trim, and set them aside: bone the turkey without removing the wings ; nearly fill the inside with veal forcemeat, No. 185; thrust a trimmed boiled red tongue down the middle of the forcemeat; close the pouch of the turkey by sewing it up securely, and truss the turkey for boiling, inserting the feet in their natural position, and give it as nearly as possible its original form. The turkey thus far prepared, must be sewn up in a buttered napkin, and boiled very gently indeed in order not to burst it. When done, dish up the turkey ; garnish round with a bold Jardinière of vegetables, sauce with Béchamel or any kind of white sauce, and serve.
Note.—Bear in mind that, when carving a turkey à la Yorkshire, the slices must be cut from across the breast, so as to give to each guest a slice composed of equal parts of tongue, turkey, and forcemeat holding together. Turkeys dressed in this fashion, masked with cream Béchamel sauce, decorated with truffle, tongue, &c, and garnished round with aspic jelly, form an elegant dish for ball-suppers.
No. 469.—CAPON A LA PERIGUEUX.
Stuff a capon with truffles as directed for sucking-pig, No. 445 ; truss it in the usual way ; roast and dish it up ; garnish with quenelles ; sauce with périgeux sauce, No. 67, and serve.
No. 470.—CAPON A LA PIEMONTAISE.
Stuff a capon with truffles as in the preceding number ; roast and dish it up ; garnish with raviolis, No 167, pour some tomata sauce, No. 21, over it, and serve.
No. 471.—CAPON A LA REGENCE.
Truss, lard, and braize a capon as directed for braizing a neck of mutton, No. 419, without pickling it ; and when glazed and dished up, garnish with a Toulouse ragout, N0. 105, and serve.
No 472.—BOILED CAPON.
Truss a capon, and wrap it up in a sheet of buttered paper, tied on securely with string ; put it on to boil with carrot, onion, and garnished bouquet, moistened with stock or water enough to cover it, and a little salt ; and when done, dish it up with cauliflowers, or brocoli, pour some Béchamel, or any other white sauce over it, and serve.
Note.—Boiled capons, fowls, or chickens may also be served with any kind of vegetable garnish, such as Jardinière, Macédoine, &c., or with Toulouse, Financière, Milanese, mushroom, and truffle ragout.
No. 473.—BOILED CHICKEN AND BACON.
Truss and boil a chicken as in the foregoing number; strain and boil down the broth from the chicken, and use it to make some parsley sauce, No. 48, and when the chicken is dished up, pour the green parsley sauce over it, and serve boiled streaky bacon on a separate dish; garnish with any favourite vegetable in season.
No. 474.—GROUSE A LA KINNAIRD.
Stuff the grouse or black game with forcemeat, No. 188, or merely with fuels or game livers, pounded with a pat of butter, shalot, nutmeg, pepper and salt ; truss and roast them ; and when done, dish up with a Financière ragout, No. 104.
No. 475.—BLACK GAME A LA ROYALE.
Truss and lard closely a black cock or gray hen ; roast or braize it, and when done, and dished up, garnish with a white ragout and a border of rissoles made with game.
No. 476.—CHICKEN AND RICE.
Truss a chicken for boiling, and put it in a stew pan with half a pound of parboiled rice and an ounce of butter, a few peppercorns, and a little salt; moisten with white stock, or water enough to well cover the fowl and rice; place a round of buttered paper on the top, put the lid on, and set the whole to simmer very gently indeed over a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour; and when the chicken is done, remove it from the rice, and place it on its dish ; add two yolks of eggs, half a gill of cream, a very little nutmeg, pepper and salt to the rice ; stir over the fire until quite hot, and with a spoon garnish neatly round the chicken, and serve.
Note.—If the chicken is intended for a child, or an invalid, leave out the butter, cream, spice, and eggs.
No. 477.—CHICKEN A LA ROMAINE.
Truss and boil a chicken or fowl, and when dished up, garnish with tagliarini (a species Italian paste resembling ribands), cooked and dressed with cheese similarly to macaroni ; surround this with Italian polpetti, No. 354, pour some tomata sauce, No. 21, over the chicken and outside the polpetti, and serve.
No. 478.—CHICKEN A LA MILANAISE.
Stuff a chicken or fowl with fat livers, as in No. 474, truss it for boiling, and having roasted and dished it up, surround it with Milanese ragout, No. 126; garnish with a border of rissoles, and serve.
No. 479.—CHICKENS AND TONGUE.
Boil two spring chickens, and when done, place them in a dish, with a trimmed tongue well glazed in the centre ; garnish with cauliflowers, or brocoli, sauce the chickens and vegetables with white sauce, and serve.
Note.—Chickens or fowls served with tongue, as above, may also be garnished with Macédoiue, or Jardinière, or any other dressed vegetable.
No. 480.—PHEASANT A LA PORTUGUAISE.
Braize a pheasant with some wine mirepoix, N0. 300, and when done, dish it up, garnish with quenelles of polenta, No. 356; sauce with tomata sauce made with the braize from the pheasant, and serve.
The polenta quenelles are made as follows: viz.,— put three gills of milk, and four ounces of butter in is stewpan on the fire; and, as soon as the milk rises, stir in six ounces of Indian com-flour or polenta: and caving stirred this paste over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stew pan, add two whole eggs and two yolks, two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, nutmeg, pepper and salt; mix thoroughly; shape the quenelles with two tablespoons in the ordinary way, and poach them in boiling water. Remember that if these quenelles are allowed to boil fast, they will be spoilt.
No. 481.—PHEASANT A LA GITANA.
Truss a pheasant as for boiling, put it in a stewpan with half a pound of streaky bacon cut in squares of about an inch; add an ounce of butter and a clove of garlic ; fry all together over the fire, until the pheasant has become equally browned all over; then pour off all grease, add two Portugal onions, and four ripe tomatas, sliced thin, add two glasses of sherry; put the lid on, and set the stewpan to stew gently over a slow fire for about three quarters of an hour, gently shaking the pheasant round occasionally ; just before dishing up, add a teaspoonful of sweet red Spanish pepper.
Note.—All kinds of game and poultry, or indee all kinds of meat, or firm-fleshed fish, are most excellent en dressed a la Gitana, or gipsy fashion.
No. 482.—PHEASANTS A LA FLAMANDE.
Truss two pheasants as for boiling, and put them in a stewpan with two good-sized cabbages (previously half-boiled), half a pound of streaky bacon, a pound of German sausage. and also a pound of pork sausages, carrot, onion stuck with six cloves, and garnished bouquet of parsley ; moisten with stock enough to cover the whole, and set the pheasants, &e., to stew gently over a slow fire for about an hour and a quarter ; when done, drain the pheasants, bacon, and sausages on a dish, and keep them hot while you drain and roll the stewed cabbage in a cloth, so as to enable you to cut it in the shape or form of very large corks : simultaneously with the pheasants, you must also prepare some glazed carrots, and fancy-cut turnips (boiled in milk and water to keep them white with which to dish up the pheasants ; pour some poivrade or salmis sauce over the pheasants only, and serve.
No. 483.—BOILED PHEASANT A LA SOUBISE.
Truss a pheasant to boil, and when done, dish it up, and pour over it some Soubise sauce, No. 58, in which has been mixed a gill of cream; garnish with potato croquets and serve.
If Soubise sauce is considered either too expensive or too much trouble, use plain onion sauce, No. 55, instead.
Note.—Boiled pheasants may also be served with celery sauce, or with oyster sauce.
No. 484.—ROAST PHEASANT, LIVER STUFFING.
Procure half a pound of fat livers, fry them with two ounces of fat ham, two shallots, a truffle, a little thyme, nutmeg, pepper and salt; and when nearly done, pound all well together in a mortar, and use this stuffing to fill the inside of a pheasant; truss and roast it, basting it frequently, and when done, serve it with périgueux sauce, or—merely for economyʼs sake—with brown gravy.
Note.—Al1 kinds of game may be dressed as above with equal advantage.
No. 485.—BRAIZED PARTRIDGES WITH CABBAGES.
See Pheasants, No. 482.
No. 486.—PARTRIEDGES A LA VICTORIA.
A remove dish will require three or four birds. The partridges must be partially boned, by removing the whole of the breast-bone from the interior, without in any degree deforming the breast. The birds must be reasonably filled with game forcemeat in which there have been mixed a few truffles cut in small dice, and are to be trussed up round and plump, and being closely and neatly larded, should be braized in wine mirepoix, No. 300. When the partridges are done, their stock must be strained, freed from all grease, and used for making some brown sauce, to which, after it has boiled, been skimmed, and properly finished, add a small pat of anchovy butter, or a very little essence, half a glass of sherry, and a tiny pinch of cayenne ; and use this sauce to pour over the partridges when dished up ; garnish round with mushrooms au gratin, and serve.
No. 487.—PARTRIDGES A LA PRINCE OF WALES.
Remove the fillets from three or four partridges; truss the carcasses in exactly the same way as though they had not been deprived of their fillets ; braize them, carefully avoiding to break or disturb the natural position of their legs ; and when done, set them to become cold in their own stock. Meanwhile, prepare some quenelle forcemeat, No. 185, using the fillets of partridges for the purpose ; and when finished, use this to fill up the vacuity occasioned by the removal of the fillets, so as to admit of the partridges resuming their natural shape : their surface must be smoothed over with a knife dipped in hot water ; and, after being very gently painted all over with slightly-beaten white of egg, the forcemeat breasts are to be decorated with black truffle, or red tongue cut in thin slices and stamped out with tin cutters, in the shape of leaves, lozenges, dots, rings, &c., and placed and arranged in the form of wreaths, sprigs of plants, mosaics, or any other fanciful designs. And when this has been accomplished, place the partridges in a deep fricandeau-pan, with just enough stock to reach up to the commencement of the forcemeat ; put a buttered paper lightly on the breasts of the partridges, and set them to simmer very gently by the side of the fire, remembering that the stock used for poaching the birds must be poured in at the side of the pan boiling hot, so as to set the outer part at once. About twenty minutesʼ simmering will suffice to cook them ; and when done, they must be dished up, garnished with cocks' combs, button mushrooms, truffles, and small quenelles ; and some Allemande sauce, No. 17, finished or made with the stock the carcasses were boiled in, is to be poured round, without masking the decoration.
Note.—Al1 kinds of game may be prepared as above.
No. 488.—PHEASANT WITH SAGE AND ONION.
Stuff the pheasant with sage and onion, No. 297, truss and roast it in the usual way, and when dished up, and served with rich brown gravy, you will taste an ordinary dish, it is true, but at the same time a good thing which you will certainly desire to see repeated.
No. 489.—ROAST GOOSE WITH SAGE AND ONION.
Stuff the goose with sage and onions, No. 297, truss and roast it before a brisk fire, for about an hour and a half, basting it frequently ; and when done, dish it up with good brown gravy, and serve apple sauce, No. 50, separately.
No. 490.—BRAIZED GOOSE A LA JARDINIERE.
Truss a goose for boiling, and place it in a braising-pan with the usual complement of stock vegetables, six cloves, mace, peppercorns, and garnished bouquet; moisten with just enough stock or water to cover the goose, and set it to braize slowly for about two hours ; remembering that the lid of the pan should be covered with live embers, and that the goose must be frequently basted with its own liquor. When the goose is done, drained, and dished up, garnish it round with spring Jardinière, No. 102, sauce it over with brown sauce, in which there has been incorporated the stock from the goose, previously freed from grease, and boiled down to half-glaze.
No. 491.—GOOSE A L'ARLESIENNE.
Prepare some Provençale stuffing, as indicated in No. 466, to which add thirty cleaned roasted chestnuts, and use it to fill the inside of a goose ; braize it in mirepoix, No. 300, and when done, drain it, strain its liquor, remove the grease, and having boiled the liquor down to half-glaze, add it to some tomata sauce or pulp, and pour it over the goose when dished up, and garnished with a border of tomatas au gratin.
No. 492.—STEWED DUCKS A L'ESPAGNOLE.
Truss a duck in the ordinary way, and put it in a stew pan with parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme, tied together ; some pieces of carrot and celery, a small clove of garlic, and an onion stuck with four cloves, a little salt, and half a gill of salad oil ; fry the duck in this, of a light-brown colour all over, on a stove fire ; moisten with stock or water, and set the duck to braise very gently for about an hour. When done, take it up, strain the liquor, remove the grease, boil the liquor down to half-glaze, add a little brown sauce, and three dozen turned olives; allow this to stew with the duck for a quarter of an hour, and serve.
No. 493.—STEWED DUCK WITH PEAS.
Truss a duck and braize it in the usual way ; and while this is going on, shred a lettuce fine, and put it in a stewpan with a quart of peas, a faggot of green onions and paisley, an ounce of butter, pepper and salt, and a gill of water ; put the lid on the stewpan, and set the peas to stew very gently over a slow fire for about twenty-five minutes, tossing them up occasionally to admit of their being done equally ; and, when the peas are become soft, and are done, should there happen to be too much moisture, boil down on the fire until reduced; add a dessertspoonful of white sugar, and a good pat of butter kneaded with a dessert-spoonful of four; work this in with the peas to bind them, and use them to garnish the duck when dished up : sauce over all, with the stock from the duck, previously boiled down to a glaze.
No. 494.—BRAIZED DUCK WITH TURNIPS.
Truss a duck and place it in a stew pan with two ounces of butter, pepper and salt, and a garnished bouquet, and set this to fry gently over a slow fire until the duck is equally browned all over; then shake in a couple of tablespoonfuls of flour, stir together until the flour and butter are smoothly mixed, and then moisten with stock or water enough to cover the duck, and stir over the fire until it boils ; remove it to the side to continue gently simmering for about three quarters of an hour, in order to cook it, and at the same time to allow it to throw up all impurities, which should be removed ever now and then. Simultaneously with the duck, and in the same stew pan, there should be stewed some turnips cut or turned in any fancy shape—the size of a pigeonʼs egg : these turnips must be fried in a little butter over the fire, of a light colour, previously to their being added to the duck. When the duck is done, skim away all grease, first take out the duck and place it on its dish, then carefully drain the turnips, and place them round it : and if the sauce happens to be too thin, boil it down by stirring it over the fire ; ascertain that the seasoning is satisfactory, strain and pour it over the duck, &c., and serve.
Note.—Observe that ducks, or indeed any kind of poultry or game, may be cooked according to the foreegoing simple method ; and, for variety sake, peas, or any other vegetable—such as onions, carrots, celery, or horns, &c.—may be substituted for turnips.
For the unfamiliar, removes are typically the main meat part of the main course, typically large dishes with garnishes that are palced at the top or bottom end of a dinner table for carving or serving (or which, in Victorian times, might be presented and served on a side-table).
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
Francatelli's Chapter X: Removes of Poultry and Game.
CHAPTER X.
REMOVES OF POULTRY AND GAME
DRAW the turkey by making an incision at the back of the neck, and cutting away the vent to the extent of an inch in circumference ; and, thrusting the middle fingers of both hands simultaneously through these openings, draw out the whole of the inside, reserving the liver and gizzard, which after being freed from gall and digester (the pouch of the gizzard containing stones, &c,), are to be reserved for the purpose of tucking each respectively through a slit made in the wings. Cut off the head and neck, scald the feet, and pull if the rough dirty skin ; cut away the claws ; fill the inside and pouch of the turkey with sausage-meat, or veal-stuffing; and when trussed with skewers or string, roast it before a good fire, basting it frequently to keep its gravy in and by this means prevent it from eating dry, which is a very general complaint with roast turkeys,—not from any want of moisture in the flesh of the bird, but from neglecting to baste it well while it is being roasted. And when the turkey is done, dish it up with fried sausages round it ; pour some good brown gravy over, and serve bread sauce, No. 70, separately.
Stuff and roast a turkey as directed in the foregoing number; dish it up with a Chipolata ragout, No. 123 ; garnish also with a border of decorated quenelles, when the dish is intended for a grand display of taste, &c.
Prepare the following kind of stuffing: viz.,—chop and parboil for a few minutes only, six large onions ; drain them in a sieve, and put them in a stew pan with four ounces of butter, the crumb of two French rolls previously soaked in milk, chopped parsley, nutmeg, pepper and salt, six yolks of eggs, a few truffles cut in slices ; stir the whole over the fire until set in a comparatively firm paste, and use this stuffing to fill the turkey with ; truss and roast it in the usual way, and when done, and dished up, pour some périgueux or truffle, or tomata sauce, over it, and serve. This, when properly cooked, is decidedly one of the best things it is possible to place on a dinner-table.
Truss the turkey for boiling, place it in a large stew-pan, with carrot, onion stuck with six cloves, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, a few peppercorns, and a small handful of salt ; moisten with white stock or water, just enough to cover the turkey ; boil gently until done tender ; drain thoroughly, dish up, pour either parsley sauce or celery, or oyster sauce, over the turkey ; garnish it round with alternate slices of tongue or fried bacon, and veal stuffing previously boiled in a cloth, rolled up in the form of a short rolling-pin, and afterwards cut up in slices.
Cut of the legs of a turkey ; scald, trim, and set them aside: bone the turkey without removing the wings ; nearly fill the inside with veal forcemeat, No. 185; thrust a trimmed boiled red tongue down the middle of the forcemeat; close the pouch of the turkey by sewing it up securely, and truss the turkey for boiling, inserting the feet in their natural position, and give it as nearly as possible its original form. The turkey thus far prepared, must be sewn up in a buttered napkin, and boiled very gently indeed in order not to burst it. When done, dish up the turkey ; garnish round with a bold Jardinière of vegetables, sauce with Béchamel or any kind of white sauce, and serve.
Note.—Bear in mind that, when carving a turkey à la Yorkshire, the slices must be cut from across the breast, so as to give to each guest a slice composed of equal parts of tongue, turkey, and forcemeat holding together. Turkeys dressed in this fashion, masked with cream Béchamel sauce, decorated with truffle, tongue, &c, and garnished round with aspic jelly, form an elegant dish for ball-suppers.
Stuff a capon with truffles as directed for sucking-pig, No. 445 ; truss it in the usual way ; roast and dish it up ; garnish with quenelles ; sauce with périgeux sauce, No. 67, and serve.
Stuff a capon with truffles as in the preceding number ; roast and dish it up ; garnish with raviolis, No 167, pour some tomata sauce, No. 21, over it, and serve.
Truss, lard, and braize a capon as directed for braizing a neck of mutton, No. 419, without pickling it ; and when glazed and dished up, garnish with a Toulouse ragout, N0. 105, and serve.
Truss a capon, and wrap it up in a sheet of buttered paper, tied on securely with string ; put it on to boil with carrot, onion, and garnished bouquet, moistened with stock or water enough to cover it, and a little salt ; and when done, dish it up with cauliflowers, or brocoli, pour some Béchamel, or any other white sauce over it, and serve.
Note.—Boiled capons, fowls, or chickens may also be served with any kind of vegetable garnish, such as Jardinière, Macédoine, &c., or with Toulouse, Financière, Milanese, mushroom, and truffle ragout.
Truss and boil a chicken as in the foregoing number; strain and boil down the broth from the chicken, and use it to make some parsley sauce, No. 48, and when the chicken is dished up, pour the green parsley sauce over it, and serve boiled streaky bacon on a separate dish; garnish with any favourite vegetable in season.
Stuff the grouse or black game with forcemeat, No. 188, or merely with fuels or game livers, pounded with a pat of butter, shalot, nutmeg, pepper and salt ; truss and roast them ; and when done, dish up with a Financière ragout, No. 104.
Truss and lard closely a black cock or gray hen ; roast or braize it, and when done, and dished up, garnish with a white ragout and a border of rissoles made with game.
Truss a chicken for boiling, and put it in a stew pan with half a pound of parboiled rice and an ounce of butter, a few peppercorns, and a little salt; moisten with white stock, or water enough to well cover the fowl and rice; place a round of buttered paper on the top, put the lid on, and set the whole to simmer very gently indeed over a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour; and when the chicken is done, remove it from the rice, and place it on its dish ; add two yolks of eggs, half a gill of cream, a very little nutmeg, pepper and salt to the rice ; stir over the fire until quite hot, and with a spoon garnish neatly round the chicken, and serve.
Note.—If the chicken is intended for a child, or an invalid, leave out the butter, cream, spice, and eggs.
Truss and boil a chicken or fowl, and when dished up, garnish with tagliarini (a species Italian paste resembling ribands), cooked and dressed with cheese similarly to macaroni ; surround this with Italian polpetti, No. 354, pour some tomata sauce, No. 21, over the chicken and outside the polpetti, and serve.
Stuff a chicken or fowl with fat livers, as in No. 474, truss it for boiling, and having roasted and dished it up, surround it with Milanese ragout, No. 126; garnish with a border of rissoles, and serve.
Boil two spring chickens, and when done, place them in a dish, with a trimmed tongue well glazed in the centre ; garnish with cauliflowers, or brocoli, sauce the chickens and vegetables with white sauce, and serve.
Note.—Chickens or fowls served with tongue, as above, may also be garnished with Macédoiue, or Jardinière, or any other dressed vegetable.
Braize a pheasant with some wine mirepoix, N0. 300, and when done, dish it up, garnish with quenelles of polenta, No. 356; sauce with tomata sauce made with the braize from the pheasant, and serve.
The polenta quenelles are made as follows: viz.,— put three gills of milk, and four ounces of butter in is stewpan on the fire; and, as soon as the milk rises, stir in six ounces of Indian com-flour or polenta: and caving stirred this paste over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stew pan, add two whole eggs and two yolks, two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, nutmeg, pepper and salt; mix thoroughly; shape the quenelles with two tablespoons in the ordinary way, and poach them in boiling water. Remember that if these quenelles are allowed to boil fast, they will be spoilt.
Truss a pheasant as for boiling, put it in a stewpan with half a pound of streaky bacon cut in squares of about an inch; add an ounce of butter and a clove of garlic ; fry all together over the fire, until the pheasant has become equally browned all over; then pour off all grease, add two Portugal onions, and four ripe tomatas, sliced thin, add two glasses of sherry; put the lid on, and set the stewpan to stew gently over a slow fire for about three quarters of an hour, gently shaking the pheasant round occasionally ; just before dishing up, add a teaspoonful of sweet red Spanish pepper.
Note.—All kinds of game and poultry, or indee all kinds of meat, or firm-fleshed fish, are most excellent en dressed a la Gitana, or gipsy fashion.
Truss two pheasants as for boiling, and put them in a stewpan with two good-sized cabbages (previously half-boiled), half a pound of streaky bacon, a pound of German sausage. and also a pound of pork sausages, carrot, onion stuck with six cloves, and garnished bouquet of parsley ; moisten with stock enough to cover the whole, and set the pheasants, &e., to stew gently over a slow fire for about an hour and a quarter ; when done, drain the pheasants, bacon, and sausages on a dish, and keep them hot while you drain and roll the stewed cabbage in a cloth, so as to enable you to cut it in the shape or form of very large corks : simultaneously with the pheasants, you must also prepare some glazed carrots, and fancy-cut turnips (boiled in milk and water to keep them white with which to dish up the pheasants ; pour some poivrade or salmis sauce over the pheasants only, and serve.
Truss a pheasant to boil, and when done, dish it up, and pour over it some Soubise sauce, No. 58, in which has been mixed a gill of cream; garnish with potato croquets and serve.
If Soubise sauce is considered either too expensive or too much trouble, use plain onion sauce, No. 55, instead.
Note.—Boiled pheasants may also be served with celery sauce, or with oyster sauce.
Procure half a pound of fat livers, fry them with two ounces of fat ham, two shallots, a truffle, a little thyme, nutmeg, pepper and salt; and when nearly done, pound all well together in a mortar, and use this stuffing to fill the inside of a pheasant; truss and roast it, basting it frequently, and when done, serve it with périgueux sauce, or—merely for economyʼs sake—with brown gravy.
Note.—Al1 kinds of game may be dressed as above with equal advantage.
See Pheasants, No. 482.
A remove dish will require three or four birds. The partridges must be partially boned, by removing the whole of the breast-bone from the interior, without in any degree deforming the breast. The birds must be reasonably filled with game forcemeat in which there have been mixed a few truffles cut in small dice, and are to be trussed up round and plump, and being closely and neatly larded, should be braized in wine mirepoix, No. 300. When the partridges are done, their stock must be strained, freed from all grease, and used for making some brown sauce, to which, after it has boiled, been skimmed, and properly finished, add a small pat of anchovy butter, or a very little essence, half a glass of sherry, and a tiny pinch of cayenne ; and use this sauce to pour over the partridges when dished up ; garnish round with mushrooms au gratin, and serve.
Remove the fillets from three or four partridges; truss the carcasses in exactly the same way as though they had not been deprived of their fillets ; braize them, carefully avoiding to break or disturb the natural position of their legs ; and when done, set them to become cold in their own stock. Meanwhile, prepare some quenelle forcemeat, No. 185, using the fillets of partridges for the purpose ; and when finished, use this to fill up the vacuity occasioned by the removal of the fillets, so as to admit of the partridges resuming their natural shape : their surface must be smoothed over with a knife dipped in hot water ; and, after being very gently painted all over with slightly-beaten white of egg, the forcemeat breasts are to be decorated with black truffle, or red tongue cut in thin slices and stamped out with tin cutters, in the shape of leaves, lozenges, dots, rings, &c., and placed and arranged in the form of wreaths, sprigs of plants, mosaics, or any other fanciful designs. And when this has been accomplished, place the partridges in a deep fricandeau-pan, with just enough stock to reach up to the commencement of the forcemeat ; put a buttered paper lightly on the breasts of the partridges, and set them to simmer very gently by the side of the fire, remembering that the stock used for poaching the birds must be poured in at the side of the pan boiling hot, so as to set the outer part at once. About twenty minutesʼ simmering will suffice to cook them ; and when done, they must be dished up, garnished with cocks' combs, button mushrooms, truffles, and small quenelles ; and some Allemande sauce, No. 17, finished or made with the stock the carcasses were boiled in, is to be poured round, without masking the decoration.
Note.—Al1 kinds of game may be prepared as above.
Stuff the pheasant with sage and onion, No. 297, truss and roast it in the usual way, and when dished up, and served with rich brown gravy, you will taste an ordinary dish, it is true, but at the same time a good thing which you will certainly desire to see repeated.
Stuff the goose with sage and onions, No. 297, truss and roast it before a brisk fire, for about an hour and a half, basting it frequently ; and when done, dish it up with good brown gravy, and serve apple sauce, No. 50, separately.
Truss a goose for boiling, and place it in a braising-pan with the usual complement of stock vegetables, six cloves, mace, peppercorns, and garnished bouquet; moisten with just enough stock or water to cover the goose, and set it to braize slowly for about two hours ; remembering that the lid of the pan should be covered with live embers, and that the goose must be frequently basted with its own liquor. When the goose is done, drained, and dished up, garnish it round with spring Jardinière, No. 102, sauce it over with brown sauce, in which there has been incorporated the stock from the goose, previously freed from grease, and boiled down to half-glaze.
Prepare some Provençale stuffing, as indicated in No. 466, to which add thirty cleaned roasted chestnuts, and use it to fill the inside of a goose ; braize it in mirepoix, No. 300, and when done, drain it, strain its liquor, remove the grease, and having boiled the liquor down to half-glaze, add it to some tomata sauce or pulp, and pour it over the goose when dished up, and garnished with a border of tomatas au gratin.
Truss a duck in the ordinary way, and put it in a stew pan with parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme, tied together ; some pieces of carrot and celery, a small clove of garlic, and an onion stuck with four cloves, a little salt, and half a gill of salad oil ; fry the duck in this, of a light-brown colour all over, on a stove fire ; moisten with stock or water, and set the duck to braise very gently for about an hour. When done, take it up, strain the liquor, remove the grease, boil the liquor down to half-glaze, add a little brown sauce, and three dozen turned olives; allow this to stew with the duck for a quarter of an hour, and serve.
Truss a duck and braize it in the usual way ; and while this is going on, shred a lettuce fine, and put it in a stewpan with a quart of peas, a faggot of green onions and paisley, an ounce of butter, pepper and salt, and a gill of water ; put the lid on the stewpan, and set the peas to stew very gently over a slow fire for about twenty-five minutes, tossing them up occasionally to admit of their being done equally ; and, when the peas are become soft, and are done, should there happen to be too much moisture, boil down on the fire until reduced; add a dessertspoonful of white sugar, and a good pat of butter kneaded with a dessert-spoonful of four; work this in with the peas to bind them, and use them to garnish the duck when dished up : sauce over all, with the stock from the duck, previously boiled down to a glaze.
Truss a duck and place it in a stew pan with two ounces of butter, pepper and salt, and a garnished bouquet, and set this to fry gently over a slow fire until the duck is equally browned all over; then shake in a couple of tablespoonfuls of flour, stir together until the flour and butter are smoothly mixed, and then moisten with stock or water enough to cover the duck, and stir over the fire until it boils ; remove it to the side to continue gently simmering for about three quarters of an hour, in order to cook it, and at the same time to allow it to throw up all impurities, which should be removed ever now and then. Simultaneously with the duck, and in the same stew pan, there should be stewed some turnips cut or turned in any fancy shape—the size of a pigeonʼs egg : these turnips must be fried in a little butter over the fire, of a light colour, previously to their being added to the duck. When the duck is done, skim away all grease, first take out the duck and place it on its dish, then carefully drain the turnips, and place them round it : and if the sauce happens to be too thin, boil it down by stirring it over the fire ; ascertain that the seasoning is satisfactory, strain and pour it over the duck, &c., and serve.
Note.—Observe that ducks, or indeed any kind of poultry or game, may be cooked according to the foreegoing simple method ; and, for variety sake, peas, or any other vegetable—such as onions, carrots, celery, or horns, &c.—may be substituted for turnips.
Note.—For removes of beef or mutton, &c., or poultry or game, of a richer or more varied style, see my "Modern Cook." tenth Edition, 1861.