Francatelli Recipes for Jellies, Chapter 24
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Francatelli Recipes for Jellies — This page gives you the entire contents of the Twenty-fourth Chapter: Jellies in General from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
CHAPTER XXIV.
No. 838.—CALFʼS FEET JELLY.
SPLIT four calfʼs feet, and put them on to boil in a gallon of water; skim them well, and set them to continue gently boiling for about four hours, by which time the water will be reduced to half its first quantity ; then strain the stock through a sieve into a basin, and when it has become cold, and set in a firm jelly, scrape off the grease, wash the surface of the calfʼs feet stock with a little scalding water, and after throwing this away, dab it over with a clean cloth, and put the stock into a stewpan with two pounds of sugar, the juice of twelve lemons, the rind of six, a bruised stick of cinnamon, and twenty coriander-seeds ; set this on the fire to dissolve, and then add six whites of eggs well whisked with half a pint of water, and continue whisking the jelly on the fire until it begins to boil ; you then add a pint of sherry, put the lid on with some live embers of charcoal upon it, and allow it to simmer slowly by the side of the stove for twenty minutes longer, and then pour it into a jelly-bag (see Adams’ Illustrations), with a basin placed under it to receive the jelly as it passes through it, and keep putting it back through the bag until it passes quite bright and clear; when all the jelly has passed through, put it away in basins to be used according to directions or convenience.
No. 839.—GELATINE JELLY.
To four ounces of gelatine (to be had of all grocers), add three-quarters of a pound of sugar, three pints of water, the juice of six lemons, and the peel of two, a bit of cinnamon, and a few coriander-seeds; stir this on the fire until the gelatine is dissolved; then add three whites of eggs whipped with a gill of water, and continue stirring the jelly on the fire until it boils, and then lift it off to the side, cover it over, and allow it to continue gently boiling for about five minutes : it must then be run through a jelly-bag as in the preceding case, and either put in a mould to be set in rough ice, or else kept for other uses, as will be hereafter indicated.
No. 840.—ORANGE JELLY.
Rub the rind of six oranges upon lumps of loaf-sugar, and put these in a basin with the juice of twelve ; add a pint of clarified syrup, No. 842, and two ounces of clarified isinglass, or gelatine; mix, and set the jelly in a mould in rough ice. When about to send to table, dip the mould in hot water, turn it upside-down on its dish; lift off the mould, and serve.
No. 841.—LEMON JELLY.
This is prepared in the same manner as the foregoing; but there is also another way of making lemon jelly bright :—put the juice of six lemons and the peel of three in a stewpan with two ounces of gelatine, half a pound of sugar, and a pint of water; dissolve this by stirring it on the fire, and then add three whites of eggs whipped with a gill of water ; whisk the jelly on the fire until it boils for three minutes, and then run it several times through the bag; and when it runs bright, put it in its mould, and set it in rough ice.
No. 842.—TO CLARIFY SYRUP.
To three pounds of loaf-sugar, add a quart of water, and half a white of egg; whisk all together in a stewpan or sugar-boiler, and set it to boil gently for five minutes, adding occasionally a little cold water; and then strain it through a napkin into a basin.
Sugar so clarified will prove on trial, with a syrup-gauge, to be of twenty-eight degrees’ strength.
No. 843.—TO CLARIFY ISINGLASS.
The best isinglass comes from Russia—the finest from Archangel; there are many spurious imitations manufactured in England—all more or less impossible to clarify : these kinds of isinglass are all more or less worthless, and are easily detected from their extreme whiteness, and fine, paper-like, shred appearance ; while genuine isinglass, whether in sheets or shred, presents all the appearance of a dull, dingy, semi-opaque looking hard skin. The spurious isinglass is almost instantly dissolved by merely stirring it in boiling water, while genuine isinglass requires half an hour’s gentle boiling to dissolve it.
When about to clarify isinglass, it is necessary—first, to cut it in shreds, and put it in a very clean stewpan, in the proportion of an ounce of isinglass to half a pint of cold water; stir this on the fire until it boils, and then set it down by the side to boil gently for half an hour ; a few minutes before it is removed, add a lump of sugar, a teaspoonful of wood-vinegar, and a little cold water; stir all together, and remove the scum as it rises to the surface ; and, at the end of the time, strain through a sieve, or napkin, for use.
No. 844.—PINE-APPLE JELLY.
Peel a pine apple of about a pound weight ; pick out the specks, cut it up in slices, and put these in a basin. Clarify twelve ounces of sugar with a pint of water, the juice of two lemons, and half a white of egg; strain the syrup upon the pine-apple, and boil both together for ten minutes. Next, strain the pine-apple syrup through a napkin into a basin; add two ounces of clarified isinglass, No. 843, or a like quantity of gelatine, No. 839 ; set a mould in rough ice, pour three spoonfuls of the jelly at the bottom of the mould, and when this has become set firm, place thereon a neatly-arranged row of slices of the pine-apple ; then add more jelly, and when this has also become set firm, repeat the pine apple and the jelly until the mould is filled up; and when set quite firm all through, and about to be sent to table, dip it in hot water, and turn the jelly out upon its dish.
No. 845.—CURRANT AND RASPBERRY JELLY.
Pick the stalks from a quart of red currants and a pottle of raspberries; put both fruits in a basin with three-quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, and half a pint of spring-water ; bruise all well together, and then pour the whole into a suspended jelly-bag, in order that the juice may filter through perfectly bright; to attain this result it is necessary that the juice should be passed several times through the bag; and, when all the juice has passed, add thereto either two ounces of clarified isinglass, No. 843, or the same quantity of gelatine, No. 839 ; mix, and having set the mould in ice, when quite firm, serve.
No. 846.—STRAWBERRY JELLY.
First, bruise half a pound of red currants in a basin with a gill of spring-water; add two potholes of scarlet strawberries; pour a pint of hot syrup. No. 842, to these ; cover the basin with a plate, and allow the infusion to stand in a cool place for a couple of hours, and then strain it through a jelly-bag into a basin ; add two ounces of isinglass, or gelatine, and finish this jelly by garnishing the mould with large strawberries in the manner indicated for pine-apple jelly.
Note.—Strawberry jelly, as well as currant jelly, are used as an excellent foundation for making peach, nectarine, and all kinds of fruit jellies. Jellies prepared with fruit juices are cooling, as well as refreshing,—and will prove more agreeable to ladies in summer than when prepared with wine or liqueurs.
No. 847.—MACEDONIE OF FRUITS.
Any kind of bright jelly, flavoured with maraschino, noyeau, or kirsch, serves for this purpose; it is necessary, first, to set a mould in ice, and to fill it with alternate groups of different kinds of fruit and layers of jelly,—the larger fruit used for Macédoines should be cut in pieces.
No. 848.—FRUIT JELLIES ICED.
These constitute a species of jellies never before introduced to general notice : they are prepared in the first instance nearly in the same manner as directed for making all the preceding fruit jellies, with this difference, that when fruit or liqueur jellies are intended to be partially frozen, two-thirds only of the usual quantity of isinglass must be used ; while it is necessary to add one-third more of sugar, to compensate for the action of refrigeration, which tends to lessen the sweetness.
As an example for the preparation of frozen jellies,—let it suffice to say, that the mould must be set in plenty of rough ice mixed with salt ; and, soon as the jelly is poured into the mould, a stew pan lid is to be placed upon it, and the whole is to be covered in with more ice and salt. The jelly must be frozen in this manner for an hour only ; in order that when turned out and sent to table, the interior may yet remain soft. Cold, or scarcely tepid, water, must be used to dip the mould in, when about to turn these jellies out on their dish.
No. 849.—WHOLE FRUITS IN JELLY.
Very bright jelly only should be used for this purpose; and a plain mould, without a pipe or cylinder, is best calculated to show the fruits ; these should be so placed in the mould, as when the jelly is turned out upon its dish, to resemble the woodcut. This is to be effected—first, by placing the mould in ice in the usual way, and then, after having prepared a layer of jelly at the bottom of the mould—nearly an inch thick, and when it has become set firm, putting in the fruit in tended to surmount the group, and then, as the jelly added to support this in its desired position becomes set, continuing to place the other fruits until the group is completed : fill up the mould with jelly, and when set firm, turn it out on its dish.
No. 850.—MARASCHINO JELLY.
To one pint of clarified syrup, add two ounces of clarified isinglass, the juice of a lemon, and a wineglass of maraschino , mix, and pour into a jelly mould set in rough ice; and when the jelly is set firm, turn it out on its dish.
No. 851.—NOYEAU JELLY.
This, and all other liqueur jellies, are prepared in the same manner as the foregoing.
No. 852.—RUSSIAN JELLY.
This is made from the remains of any kind of jelly, which, after it has been dissolved in a basin over hot water, must be vigorously whisked upon rough ice—into a creamy froth, and immediately poured into a mould set in ice.
No. 853.—PUNCH JELLY.
Put the following ingredients into a stewpan : four ounces of gelatine, ten ounces of sugar, a gill of brandy, a gill of rum, the juice of six lemons, the peel of three, a stick of cinnamon, twelve cloves, twenty coriander seeds, and half a nutmeg grated ; add a pint of water and four whites of eggs, well whisked together; whisk the jelly on the fire until it boils, and then allow it to stand down by the side, with the lid on, containing live embers of charcoal, for about a quarter of an hour; pour the jelly through the bag several times, until it runs bright, and when all has run through, set in its mould in rough ice.
No. 854.—PANACHEE JELLY.
Prepare any kind of jelly, one-half of which should be coloured pink with a few drops of prepared cochineal; while the remainder should be perfectly white, or, at any rate, free from colour. Fill a mould imbedded in rough ice, with alternate layers of the pink and white jelly, remembering that each layer, about half an inch thick, must be allowed to become set firm before any more jelly is poured upon it ; when the mould is filled in this manner, and the jelly is quite firm, it may be turned out on its dish.
No. 855.—ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY.
First, with a tin cutter about half an inch in diameter, make an incision on the stalk end of an orange , remove the circular piece of peel thus cut through, and then, with the handle-end of a teaspoon, proceed to work out all the juice and fibres of the fruit; then soak the emptied oranges in cold water for an hour, and with the point of the finger you will be able entirely to free the inside of the orange from any remaining portion of the fibrous parts of the fruit, thus leaving the interior pith perfectly clean and smooth. It is necessary to leave the oranges when emptied in the water for an hour or so, to harden their rind; at the end of that time they must be drained upside-down upon a sieve, so as to admit of their being freed from all moisture inside. Pound some rough ice, and place it in a deep dish, and arrange the empty oranges in rows (taking care to stop up any crevices or holes with bits of butter); fill one-half with pink jelly, and the remainder with white; or, for variety sake, each orange may be filled with alternate layers of different coloured jellies or creams. When the jelly is set firm in the oranges, they are to be wiped with a napkin, cut in quarters with a sharp knife. When built up with green leaves between each quarter, they form a very pretty dish.
No. 856.—LEMONS FILLED WITH JELLY OR CREAM.
Proceed to empty the lemons in the manner indicated for oranges, and fill them with different-coloured jelly, or cream, or blanc-manger ; when set firm, cut them up in quarters, and dish them up in a similar style.
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
Francatelli's Chapter XXIV: Jellies in General.
CHAPTER XXIV.
JELLIES IN GENERAL.
SPLIT four calfʼs feet, and put them on to boil in a gallon of water; skim them well, and set them to continue gently boiling for about four hours, by which time the water will be reduced to half its first quantity ; then strain the stock through a sieve into a basin, and when it has become cold, and set in a firm jelly, scrape off the grease, wash the surface of the calfʼs feet stock with a little scalding water, and after throwing this away, dab it over with a clean cloth, and put the stock into a stewpan with two pounds of sugar, the juice of twelve lemons, the rind of six, a bruised stick of cinnamon, and twenty coriander-seeds ; set this on the fire to dissolve, and then add six whites of eggs well whisked with half a pint of water, and continue whisking the jelly on the fire until it begins to boil ; you then add a pint of sherry, put the lid on with some live embers of charcoal upon it, and allow it to simmer slowly by the side of the stove for twenty minutes longer, and then pour it into a jelly-bag (see Adams’ Illustrations), with a basin placed under it to receive the jelly as it passes through it, and keep putting it back through the bag until it passes quite bright and clear; when all the jelly has passed through, put it away in basins to be used according to directions or convenience.
To four ounces of gelatine (to be had of all grocers), add three-quarters of a pound of sugar, three pints of water, the juice of six lemons, and the peel of two, a bit of cinnamon, and a few coriander-seeds; stir this on the fire until the gelatine is dissolved; then add three whites of eggs whipped with a gill of water, and continue stirring the jelly on the fire until it boils, and then lift it off to the side, cover it over, and allow it to continue gently boiling for about five minutes : it must then be run through a jelly-bag as in the preceding case, and either put in a mould to be set in rough ice, or else kept for other uses, as will be hereafter indicated.
Rub the rind of six oranges upon lumps of loaf-sugar, and put these in a basin with the juice of twelve ; add a pint of clarified syrup, No. 842, and two ounces of clarified isinglass, or gelatine; mix, and set the jelly in a mould in rough ice. When about to send to table, dip the mould in hot water, turn it upside-down on its dish; lift off the mould, and serve.
This is prepared in the same manner as the foregoing; but there is also another way of making lemon jelly bright :—put the juice of six lemons and the peel of three in a stewpan with two ounces of gelatine, half a pound of sugar, and a pint of water; dissolve this by stirring it on the fire, and then add three whites of eggs whipped with a gill of water ; whisk the jelly on the fire until it boils for three minutes, and then run it several times through the bag; and when it runs bright, put it in its mould, and set it in rough ice.
To three pounds of loaf-sugar, add a quart of water, and half a white of egg; whisk all together in a stewpan or sugar-boiler, and set it to boil gently for five minutes, adding occasionally a little cold water; and then strain it through a napkin into a basin.
Sugar so clarified will prove on trial, with a syrup-gauge, to be of twenty-eight degrees’ strength.
The best isinglass comes from Russia—the finest from Archangel; there are many spurious imitations manufactured in England—all more or less impossible to clarify : these kinds of isinglass are all more or less worthless, and are easily detected from their extreme whiteness, and fine, paper-like, shred appearance ; while genuine isinglass, whether in sheets or shred, presents all the appearance of a dull, dingy, semi-opaque looking hard skin. The spurious isinglass is almost instantly dissolved by merely stirring it in boiling water, while genuine isinglass requires half an hour’s gentle boiling to dissolve it.
When about to clarify isinglass, it is necessary—first, to cut it in shreds, and put it in a very clean stewpan, in the proportion of an ounce of isinglass to half a pint of cold water; stir this on the fire until it boils, and then set it down by the side to boil gently for half an hour ; a few minutes before it is removed, add a lump of sugar, a teaspoonful of wood-vinegar, and a little cold water; stir all together, and remove the scum as it rises to the surface ; and, at the end of the time, strain through a sieve, or napkin, for use.
Peel a pine apple of about a pound weight ; pick out the specks, cut it up in slices, and put these in a basin. Clarify twelve ounces of sugar with a pint of water, the juice of two lemons, and half a white of egg; strain the syrup upon the pine-apple, and boil both together for ten minutes. Next, strain the pine-apple syrup through a napkin into a basin; add two ounces of clarified isinglass, No. 843, or a like quantity of gelatine, No. 839 ; set a mould in rough ice, pour three spoonfuls of the jelly at the bottom of the mould, and when this has become set firm, place thereon a neatly-arranged row of slices of the pine-apple ; then add more jelly, and when this has also become set firm, repeat the pine apple and the jelly until the mould is filled up; and when set quite firm all through, and about to be sent to table, dip it in hot water, and turn the jelly out upon its dish.
Pick the stalks from a quart of red currants and a pottle of raspberries; put both fruits in a basin with three-quarters of a pound of sifted sugar, and half a pint of spring-water ; bruise all well together, and then pour the whole into a suspended jelly-bag, in order that the juice may filter through perfectly bright; to attain this result it is necessary that the juice should be passed several times through the bag; and, when all the juice has passed, add thereto either two ounces of clarified isinglass, No. 843, or the same quantity of gelatine, No. 839 ; mix, and having set the mould in ice, when quite firm, serve.
First, bruise half a pound of red currants in a basin with a gill of spring-water; add two potholes of scarlet strawberries; pour a pint of hot syrup. No. 842, to these ; cover the basin with a plate, and allow the infusion to stand in a cool place for a couple of hours, and then strain it through a jelly-bag into a basin ; add two ounces of isinglass, or gelatine, and finish this jelly by garnishing the mould with large strawberries in the manner indicated for pine-apple jelly.
Note.—Strawberry jelly, as well as currant jelly, are used as an excellent foundation for making peach, nectarine, and all kinds of fruit jellies. Jellies prepared with fruit juices are cooling, as well as refreshing,—and will prove more agreeable to ladies in summer than when prepared with wine or liqueurs.
Any kind of bright jelly, flavoured with maraschino, noyeau, or kirsch, serves for this purpose; it is necessary, first, to set a mould in ice, and to fill it with alternate groups of different kinds of fruit and layers of jelly,—the larger fruit used for Macédoines should be cut in pieces.
These constitute a species of jellies never before introduced to general notice : they are prepared in the first instance nearly in the same manner as directed for making all the preceding fruit jellies, with this difference, that when fruit or liqueur jellies are intended to be partially frozen, two-thirds only of the usual quantity of isinglass must be used ; while it is necessary to add one-third more of sugar, to compensate for the action of refrigeration, which tends to lessen the sweetness.
As an example for the preparation of frozen jellies,—let it suffice to say, that the mould must be set in plenty of rough ice mixed with salt ; and, soon as the jelly is poured into the mould, a stew pan lid is to be placed upon it, and the whole is to be covered in with more ice and salt. The jelly must be frozen in this manner for an hour only ; in order that when turned out and sent to table, the interior may yet remain soft. Cold, or scarcely tepid, water, must be used to dip the mould in, when about to turn these jellies out on their dish.
Very bright jelly only should be used for this purpose; and a plain mould, without a pipe or cylinder, is best calculated to show the fruits ; these should be so placed in the mould, as when the jelly is turned out upon its dish, to resemble the woodcut. This is to be effected—first, by placing the mould in ice in the usual way, and then, after having prepared a layer of jelly at the bottom of the mould—nearly an inch thick, and when it has become set firm, putting in the fruit in tended to surmount the group, and then, as the jelly added to support this in its desired position becomes set, continuing to place the other fruits until the group is completed : fill up the mould with jelly, and when set firm, turn it out on its dish.
To one pint of clarified syrup, add two ounces of clarified isinglass, the juice of a lemon, and a wineglass of maraschino , mix, and pour into a jelly mould set in rough ice; and when the jelly is set firm, turn it out on its dish.
This, and all other liqueur jellies, are prepared in the same manner as the foregoing.
This is made from the remains of any kind of jelly, which, after it has been dissolved in a basin over hot water, must be vigorously whisked upon rough ice—into a creamy froth, and immediately poured into a mould set in ice.
Put the following ingredients into a stewpan : four ounces of gelatine, ten ounces of sugar, a gill of brandy, a gill of rum, the juice of six lemons, the peel of three, a stick of cinnamon, twelve cloves, twenty coriander seeds, and half a nutmeg grated ; add a pint of water and four whites of eggs, well whisked together; whisk the jelly on the fire until it boils, and then allow it to stand down by the side, with the lid on, containing live embers of charcoal, for about a quarter of an hour; pour the jelly through the bag several times, until it runs bright, and when all has run through, set in its mould in rough ice.
Prepare any kind of jelly, one-half of which should be coloured pink with a few drops of prepared cochineal; while the remainder should be perfectly white, or, at any rate, free from colour. Fill a mould imbedded in rough ice, with alternate layers of the pink and white jelly, remembering that each layer, about half an inch thick, must be allowed to become set firm before any more jelly is poured upon it ; when the mould is filled in this manner, and the jelly is quite firm, it may be turned out on its dish.
First, with a tin cutter about half an inch in diameter, make an incision on the stalk end of an orange , remove the circular piece of peel thus cut through, and then, with the handle-end of a teaspoon, proceed to work out all the juice and fibres of the fruit; then soak the emptied oranges in cold water for an hour, and with the point of the finger you will be able entirely to free the inside of the orange from any remaining portion of the fibrous parts of the fruit, thus leaving the interior pith perfectly clean and smooth. It is necessary to leave the oranges when emptied in the water for an hour or so, to harden their rind; at the end of that time they must be drained upside-down upon a sieve, so as to admit of their being freed from all moisture inside. Pound some rough ice, and place it in a deep dish, and arrange the empty oranges in rows (taking care to stop up any crevices or holes with bits of butter); fill one-half with pink jelly, and the remainder with white; or, for variety sake, each orange may be filled with alternate layers of different coloured jellies or creams. When the jelly is set firm in the oranges, they are to be wiped with a napkin, cut in quarters with a sharp knife. When built up with green leaves between each quarter, they form a very pretty dish.
Proceed to empty the lemons in the manner indicated for oranges, and fill them with different-coloured jelly, or cream, or blanc-manger ; when set firm, cut them up in quarters, and dish them up in a similar style.