Francatelli Recipes for Small Pastry, Chapter 20
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Francatelli Recipes for Small Pastry — This page gives you the entire contents of the Twentieth Chapter: Small Pastry from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
CHAPTER XX.
No. 782.—CHEESECAKES.
Ingredients required :—Eight ounces of pressed curd, two ounces of ratafias, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, six yolks of eggs, some grated nutmeg, a little salt, the rind of two oranges or lemons, rubbed on sugar afterwards scraped off.
Press the curd in a napkin to absorb the superfluous moisture, then pound it thoroughly in a mortar, and mix in the above-named ingredients; when the whole is incorporated together into a kind of soft paste, take this up in a basin ; next, line two dozen or more tartlet-pans with some well-worked trimmings of puff-paste; garish these with the cheese-custard; place a strip of candied peel on the top of each; put them on a baking·sheet, and then set them in the oven (at moderate heat), to be baked of a very light-brown colour ; when done, shake a very little sifted sugar over them, and serve them quite hot.
Currants, dried cherries, sultanas, or citron may be used instead of the candied-peel.
No. 783.—MIRLITONS.
Ingredients required :—Puff-paste trimmings, three whole eggs, three ounces of sugar, one ounce of ratafias, half an ounce of candied orange-flowers, one ounce of butter and a little salt.
Put the above into a basin having a spout. The ratagisd and orange-flowers must be bruised, and the butter merely melted. Work the whole well together with a wooden spoon until the batter presents the appearance of a rich creamy-looking substance; it must then be instantly poured into two dozen small deep tartlets lined with puff-paste trimmings ; shake a rather thick coating of sifted sugar over the mirlitons, and when it has nearly melted on their surface, put them in the oven (at very moderate heat), and bake them of a light-fawn colour. When the mirlitons are done, the centre should rise out from the tartlet to the height of about half an inch, resembling the crown of a boy’s cap.
These cakes may also be flavoured with chocolate grated previously to its being added to the preparation, or with pistachios or almonds; both of these must be pounded first. They may also be flavoured with different essences. Previously to pouring the batter into the tartlets, a spoonful of apricot or pine-apple jam may be placed in them.
No. 784.—DʼARTOIS CAKE.
Puff-paste or large D’Artois cakes, prepared as directed in the foregoing cases, may be garnished either with apple marmalade, mince-meat, or any kind of preserve. In this case, however, when the cake has been covered in with the puff-paste, previously marking out the design on its surface, it must be egged over with a paste-brush ; when it has been baked of a bright-yellow colour, shake some finely-sifted sugar over it; after which put it back again in the oven for a minute or two, and then pass the red-hot salamander over it to give it a bright glossy appearance. The same direction applies to the smaller DʼArtois cakes.
No. 785.—GERMAN TOURTE OF APRICOTS.
Cut a dozen ripe apricots into quarters, and put them into a small sugar-boiler or stewpan, with the kernels extracted from the stones, four ounces of pounded sugar, and a spoonful of water ; stir this over the stove-fire until the fruit has dissolved into a jam, and then withdraw the stew pan from the fire.
Roll out some trimmings of puff-paste, or else about half a pound of short-paste, to the diameter of about eight inches ; place this on a circular baking-sheet, and with the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, twist the paste round the edges, so as to raise it in imitation of cording ; then cut up a dozen ripe apricots into quarters, and place these in close circular rows on the paste, shake some sifted sugar (mixed with some rind of lemon) over the apricots, and then bake the tourte (at moderate heat). When it is done, pour the marmalade of apricots over the others ; shake some sifted sugar mixed with a teaspoonful of cinnamon-powder over the surface ; dish the tourte on a napkin, and serve it either hot or cold. This kind of tourte may be made of every kind of fruit, following in each case the directions for the preparation of German tourte of apricots, not forgetting the cinnamon-sugar.
No. 786.—PARISIAN TURNOVER OF APPLES.
Peel about a dozen apples; cut them in quarters, and take out the cores; after which, put them into a stewpan with eight ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, the rind of a lemon rubbed on a piece of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of water ; toss the apples over a slow fire until they are about half done, and then remove them from the fire. While the apples are being prepared, roll out a piece of short-paste, in a circular form, the eighth part of an inch thick, and about the size of a dinner-plate; wet this round the edge ; then fasten a rolled cord of paste, the thickness of a small finger, within an inch of the edge, and pile the prepared apples up in the centre in the form of a dome. Next spread some apricot-marmalade over the surface, and cover the whole in with a circular piece of puff-paste ; press them together round the edges, wet the extremities, then with the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, twist or fold the edge over in the form of a cord. Let the turnover now be egged all over with a soft paste-brush dipped in some beaten white of egg; then strew some rough granite-sugar over the entire surface, and bake it of a light colour.
These turnovers may also be made of all kinds of plums, the only diligence in their mode of preparation being that they need not undergo any dressing previous to placing them in the paste, except that the stone should be removed. The plums, peaches, or apricots must be piled up in several rows forming a dome, with some pounded-sugar between each layer ; and some of the same kind of fruit the turnover is made of should first boiled down to a jam, for the purpose of masking the fruit with, preparatory to its being covered in.
No. 787.—DARIOLES.
Ingredients :—One ounce of flour, two ounces of pounded-sugar, one ounce of rattans, three gills of cream one whole egg, and six yolks, one ounce of candied orange-flowers, a small pat of butter, and a very little salt, half a pound of trimmings of puff-paste. Place sugar, the flour, the bruised ratafias, and the eggs in a spouted basin; work the whole well together, and then add the cream, a very little salt, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and mix these in with the bater. Line a dozen dariole-moulds with some trimmings of puff-paste; place these on a baking-sheet; put a very small piece of butter at the bottom of each dariole, and then after stirring the batter well together, pour it in the moulds; strew the candied-flowers on the top of each, and set them in the oven (at moderate heat) to bake. When done, the darioles should be slightly raised in the centre and of a light colour ; take them out of the moulds without breaking them ; shake some finely-sifted sugar over them, and serve them hot.
Darioles may also be flavoured with vanilla. lemon, orange, coffee, or chocolate.
No. 788.—CONDE CAKES.
Chop six ounces of Jordan almonds as fine as possible ; mix them with four ounces of sifted sugar, some grated rind of lemon, and the white of an egg: the whole should present the appearance of a rather firm paste. Next, make half a pound of puff-paste, to which give eight turns or foldings, and roll this out to the thickness of the eighth part of an inch ; then with a tin cutter, of an oval, circular, crescent, diamond, or any other fancy shape, stamp out about eighteen Condés, and place them on a baking-sheet, previously wetted over with a paste-brush to receive them. Spread a coating of the prepared chopped almonds on the surface of each; shake some fine sugar over them with the dredger, and bake them of a very light-fawn colour.
No. 789.—DʻARTOIS OF APRICOT.
Make one pound of puff-paste, and give it seven turns or foldings ; then, take one-third of it, and after kneading this well together, roll it out to the size of a square baking-sheet measuring about fourteen inches by twelve, and lay the paste upon it ; next spread a rather thick layer of apricot jam over the paste to within about an inch of the edges; then, roll out the remainder of the puff-paste to the size of the baking-sheet, and place it neatly over the surface of the apricot ; fasten it round by pressing upon the edges with the thumb, and trim the edges by cutting away the superfluous paste from the sides with a knife.
The DʼArtois must now be marked out in small oblong shapes with the back part of a knife ; and after the whole surface has been egged over, score them very neatly, forming a kind of feather-pattern on each cake. Bake them of a bright, light-brown colour ; and when they are done, shake some finely-sifted sugar over them out of the dredger ; put them back again in the oven for a minute or two, to melt the sugar, and then pass the red-hot salamander over them to give to the pastry a bight glossy appearance. When the D’Artois have become sufficiently cold, cut them up, and serve them, dished up in several circular rows piled on a napkin.
Note.—This kind of pastry may also be garnished with Pethiviers cream, pastry custard, apple marmalade, or any other kind of preserve.
No. 790.—PASTRY CUSTARD OR CREAM.
Ingredients :—Four ounces of flour, four ounces of sugar, six yolks of eggs, two ounces of butter, one pint of cream or milk, one ounce of ratafias, a spoonful of orange-flower water, and a very little salt.
Mix the flour, sugar, and salt, with two whole eggs, in a stewpan with a wooden spoon ; then add the cream and the butter, and stir the whole over the stove-fire until it boils : it must then be well worked together, so as to make it smooth. Withdraw the spoon, and after putting the lid on the stewpan, place the cream in the oven, or on a slow stove-fire partially smothered in ashes, that it may continue to simmer gently for about twenty minutes ; the cream must then be put out into a basin, and the bruised ratafias, the yolks of eggs, and the orange-flower water must be added; after this put four ounces of butter into a small stewpan on the fire, and as soon as it begins to fritter, and has acquired a light-brown colour (which gives to it the sweet flavour of nuts), add it also to the cream and let the whole be well mixed. Use this cream to garnish various kinds of pastry according to directions given in the several articles for which it is intended.
No. 791.—TALMOUSES.
Ingredients required :—Half a pint of milk, four ounces of flour, two ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, six ounces of cream-curd, the rind of an orange rubbed on sugar, a very little salt, and half a pound of puff-paste.
Put the milk, butter, sugar, and salt into a stewpan on a stove-fire, and as soon as they begin to simmer, fill in the flour by stirring the whole with a wooden spoon for two or three minutes over the fire; then add the curd (from which all the superfluous moisture must be extracted, by pressing it with a napkin), and work in the eggs one after the other, remembering that this paste must be kept to about the same substance as for Petits-choux.
Make half a pound of puff-paste, and give it nine turns; roll this out to the eighth of an inch in thickness; stamp out about two dozen circular pieces with a tin cutter about two inches in diameter, and place them in neat order on a baking-sheet, about an inch apart from each other; then place a good teaspoonful of the preparation described above, in the centre of each; wet them round the edges, and then turn up the sides so as to form each of them in the shape of a three-cornered hat; egg them over with a paste-brush; bake them of a light-brown colour; and when they are withdrawn from the oven, shake some fine sugar over them. These cakes may be served either hot or cold.
No. 792.—WALNUTS.
Give seven turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll it out to the thickness of the sixth of an inch ; then stamp out twenty circular pieces with a fluted cutter, about an inch and a half in diameter, and after wetting each of them with a paste-brush dipped in water, fold them up, at the same time pressing the two parts of the paste slightly, so as to cause them to adhere closely together. They must then be placed on a baking-sheet in rows, egged over, and baked of a bright-light colour ; just before they are done, some fine sugar should be shaken over with a dredger, and they must then be put back again in the oven for a little while to melt the sugar ; pass the red-hot salamander over, and withdraw them. Previously to serving this kind of pastry, a broad strip of red-currant, or apple jelly, should be placed across the centre.
No. 793.—BREAD-AND-BUTTER PASTRY.
Give six turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch; cut this into bands about three inches wide; then cut these again into strips rather better than a quarter of an inch wide, and place them (on the cut side) on a baking-sheet in rows about two inches apart, so as to allow them sufficient room to spread out. Bake these strips of paste in a rather sharp oven; and just before they are done, glaze them—that is, shake some fine sugar over, and then salamander them. About two dozen of these are required for a dish; they must be spread with some kind of preserve, and stuck together in pairs, to imitate bread-and-butter. Dish them up on a napkin, piled up in several circular rows, in a pyramid.
This kind of pastry may also be dished up with some stiffly-whipped cream, seasoned with a glass of liqueur in the centre.
No. 794.—RINGS OR WREATHS.
Give eight turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll this out to the sixth part of an inch in thickness; then stamp out twenty circular pieces with a fluted tin cutter, about one inch and three-quarters in diameter, and stamp out the centre of these with a plain circular cutter, about three-quarters of an inch in diameter; next place the rings on a wet baking-sheet; shake some fine sugar over them, and bake them of a very light colour (at very moderate heat). When they are done, decorate them with some whipped white of egg and sugar, over which strew some coarse sugar; put them to dry in a screen; and then finish decorating them, by placing or inserting some strips of currant or apple-jelly between the folds or dots of the decoration.
Note.—Puff-paste turned or folded eight times, then rolled out to the thickness of the sixth part of an inch, and stamped out with appropriate fancy-shaped tin cutters—either in the form of crescents, leaves, trefoil, or shamrock, stars, &c., and after being baked as directed in the foregoing case, may also be decorated in the same manner : a comet of paper should be used for this purpose.
No. 795.—POLISH CAKES.
Give seven turns to half a pound of puff-paste, roll it out as in the foregoing cases, and then cut it up into square pieces measuring rather better than two inches each way ; wet these in the centre, and then fold down the comers, so as to make them all meet in the middle of the piece of paste ; place a dot of paste in the centre of each, pressing it down with the end of the finger ; egg them over, and bake them in a rather sharp oven, of a fine, bright, light colour ; and just before they are done, shake some finely-sifted sugar over them ; put them back again in the oven to melt the sugar, and then pass the red-hot salamander over them to give them a glossy appearance. Decorate this kind of pastry with red-currant or apple jelly.
No. 796.—PLAITS.
Give nine turns to half a pound of puff-paste, roll it out to the thickness of the eighth of an inch, and then cut this into bands about five inches in width, and divide these into narrow strips a quarter of an inch wide. Take four of these strips, and after fastening them together at one end, with a little egg or water, plait them neatly but rather loosely together, and when finished, fasten the ends. As each plait is completed, place it on a baking-sheet, and when they are all ready, egg them over and bake them of a light colour; and when done, let then be glazed as usual; just before sending these cakes to table, decorate them by placing in the small cavities some dots of bright currant or apple jelly, and some greengage jam.
No. 797.—APPLE TARTLETS.
Make half a pound of tart-paste (No. 953) , roll it out rather thin, then stamp out twenty circular flats, with a fluted cutter suited to the size of the tartlets, and use them to line the moulds; fill each tartlet with a spoonful of apple marmalade; cover them in with a mosaic* of paste, egg them over, place them on a baking-sheet, and bake them of a light colour ; when done, shake some fine sugar over them, and use the red-hot salamander to give them a glossy appearance.
*Mosaic-boards for tartlets may be had, of all sizes and patterns at any turner’s shop. To cut out impressions from these it is necessary to use small circular flats of raised pie-paste, which must be placed on the board, and pressed into the design, by rolling it with a paste-pin ; the superfluous paste must then be cut or shaved away, and the mosaic of paste that remains in the design shakes out of the board.
No. 797A.—APPLES A LA PORTUGUAISE.
Prepare some apple marmalade with about a dozen apples. Split also a dozen apples into halves ; peel them, and remove the cores ; and then place them in a deep sauctapan thickly spread with butter ; shake some sugar and grated lemon-peel over them, and bake them in the oven. Prepare next a small quantity of pastry-custard No. 790), also an ornamented case (No. 519), which should be partially baked. When the foregoing articles are ready, nearly fill the case with the marmalade of apples, leaving an opening or well in the centre; then pile the pieces of apples upon the marmalade in the form of a dome, leaving the centre hollow ; fill this with the pastry-custard, and cover the whole with some orange-marmalade. Next, whip four whites of eggs quite firm ; mix in four ounces of sifted sugar, and use this meringue-paste to finish the apples, according to the design placed at the head of this article : this is done by first masking over the entire surface of the dome formed by the apples with a smooth coating of the prepared whites of eggs, and then with a paper-cornet, filled with some of the same, marking out the design. When this has been effected, shake some sifted sugar upon it, and bake the meringue of a very light fawn-colour. Just before sending this entremêt to table, finish ornamenting it by filling up the inner part of the cross with alternate stripes or layers of red currant and apple jellies, and also with greengage or apricot jam : these must be arranged so as to show their colours distinctly, which will produce a very pretty effect. This entremêt should be served hot.
No. 797B.—APPLE CHARLOTTE.
First, line the bottom of a plain round Charlotte mould (see Adams' Illustrations) with small thin circular shapes of bread stamped out with a tin cutter the size of a halfcrown-piece; dip these in clarified butter, and let them be placed in circular order—overlaying each other until the bottom is covered,—at the same time placing one of these pieces in the centre to completely cover the bottom of the mould. Next, line the sides of the mould with thin oblong pieces of bread cut an inch wide, the sixteenth of an inch thick, and of sufficient length for the depth of the mould ; these must also be dipped in the butter before they are placed in the mould in the manner represented in the annexed woodcut. The Charlotte is now to be filled with well reduced apple marmalade made as follows: viz.,—peel, core and slice up eighteen apples; put them in a stewpan with half a pint of water, two ounces of butter an a piece of cinnamon and lemon-peel tied together ; set the lid on, and place the stewpan to boil over a brisk fire until the apples are dissolved ; then add twelve ounces of sugar, and stir the marmalade on the fire until reduced to a thick substance, bearing in mind that it must be stirred constantly while on the fire to prevent its becoming burnt. Then, the Charlotte being filled with the marmalade, cover in the top with a thin round piece of bread made to fit the inner circle of the fingers of bread : place it on a baking-sheet, and set it in a rather brisk oven to be baked of a light colour; and when turned out on its dish, pour some diluted apricot jam round the base, and serve.
No. 798.—APPLE TARTLETS.—ANTHER METHOD.
Line the tartlet-pans as above : then garnish them with halves of small apples, previously turned and divested of the cores, and afterwards parboiled in a little syrup in which the piece of a lemon has been squeezed. Bake the tartlets, and when they are done, dilute some apricot jam with a little of the syrup ; use this to mask the apples in the tartlets ; and then place a preserved cherry on the centre of each.
No. 799.—CHERRY TARTLETS.
Stone two pounds of Kentish cherries ; put them into a small sugar-boiler with three-quarters of a pound of pounded sugar; toss them in this, then set them on the stove-fire, and allow them to boil about five minutes : the cherries must then be strained on a sieve, and the syrup reduced to about one-third part of its quantity, then added to the cherries, and kept in a small basin. Line two dozen small tartlet pans with short-paste or tart-paste (the flats being stamped out with a fluted cutter) ; knead as many small pieces of paste as there are tartlets, and after dipping them in flour, press one of them into each of the tartlets ; place them on a baking-sheet, and put them in the oven (moderately heated) to be baked of a light colour. When they are nearly done, withdraw them, and take out the pieces of paste; shake some fine sugar over them, and then glaze them with the red-hot salamander. Just before serving the tartlets, fill them with the cherries.
Note.—Raspberries, currants, gooseberries, and all kinds of plums may be prepared for tartlets by gently boiling them for a few minutes in about a pint of syrup ; the fruit should then be drained on a sieve, and the syrup reduced to one-third of its original quantity, and kept with the fruit in a small basin to fill the tartlets with, as in the foregoing case.
No. 800.—TARTLETS OF PUFF-PASTE.
Give eight turns to half a pound of puff-paste (No. 323) ; roll it out to the thickness of the sixth part of an inch, and then with a circular tin cutter about one inch and three-quarters in diameter, stamp out twenty flats ; again use a small cutter measuring one inch in diameter, to stamp out the centre of these ; next gather up the trimmings, knead them together and roll them out to the eighth part of an inch in thickness, and stamp out as many flats as there are rings; place them on a wetted baking-sheet, moisten the edges with a soft brush dipped in water; stick the rings of paste on these; shake some sugar over them with the dredger, and bake them of a very light colour (at very moderate heat.) When the tartlets are done, mask the bands or rings with a little meringue-paste ; dip them either in some chopped or very finely-shred pistachios or almonds, and place them in the screen to dry : previously to serving these tartlets, they maybe filled either with cherries, currants, plums, &c., prepared as directed above, or else with any kind of preserve.
No. 801.—MOSAIC TARTLETS.
Prepare two dozen puff-paste tartlets as directed above, and fill each of them with a spoonful of apricot or greengage jam; wet round the edges, and place a mosaic of paste on the top of each; egg these over slightly, and bake them of a light colour; when they are done, shake some fine sugar over them, and glaze them with the red-hot salamander.
No. 802.—PARISIAN LOAVES.
Prepare some small slender finger-biscuits; spread them with apricot or greengage jam, and stick two of them together; then hold one at a time on a fork ; mask them over slightly with some meringue-paste, and with a paper-cornet filled with some of the same, draw parallel lines across the cakes in a slanting direction ; when they are all completed, shake some sugar over them, and put them in the oven to be baked, or rather dried of a very light-fawn colour. When done, insert some very narrow strips of currant jelly, greengage jam and apple jelly, between the bars of the decoration.
No. 803.—APPLE TART WITH QUINCE.
Peel the apples, remove the cores, cut them in slices or quarters, and arrange them neatly in the pie-dish : then add the quince, which must be sliced thin and stewed with a little water, sugar, and a bit of butter, in a small stew pan over a slow fire ; add sugar enough to sweeten the quantity of apples required for the tart, and some grated lemon-peel; cover the tart with puff paste, first placing a band of paste upon the wetted edge of the dish, and then, after wetting the band, place the cover upon its place, and having pressed it down all round, cut the edge evenly all round, scollop it with the back of a knife; decorate the top with leaves of paste ; egg it over and bake it; and when done, dredge it over with sugar, and salamander it.
No. 804.—PEAR TART.
If mellow pears be used for the purpose, the foregoing instructions may be followed ; but if stewing pears are made use of, they must first be stewed with a little water, sugar, and a few cloves and lemon-peel. When the pears are cold, put them in the dish ; use tart paste to cover it, and half bake it; sprinkle it over with water and white of egg whisked together; shake sifted sugar over the surface, and put it back in the oven to finish baking of a light colour.
No. 805.—FRUIT TARTS IN GENERAL.
When the larger kinds of stone fruits are used for making tarts, such as peaches, apricots, &c., the stones must be taken out and cracked, and the kernels placed upon the top of the fruit in the dish. Add a spoonful of water, and sugar enough to sweeten ; cover with tart-paste, and finish as in the preceding case.
For making cherry or damson tarts, follow the same directions, except that the stones should not be removed.
Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and mulberries, may be treated in the same way.
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
Francatelli's Chapter XX: Small Pastry.
CHAPTER XX.
Ingredients required :—Eight ounces of pressed curd, two ounces of ratafias, six ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, six yolks of eggs, some grated nutmeg, a little salt, the rind of two oranges or lemons, rubbed on sugar afterwards scraped off.
Press the curd in a napkin to absorb the superfluous moisture, then pound it thoroughly in a mortar, and mix in the above-named ingredients; when the whole is incorporated together into a kind of soft paste, take this up in a basin ; next, line two dozen or more tartlet-pans with some well-worked trimmings of puff-paste; garish these with the cheese-custard; place a strip of candied peel on the top of each; put them on a baking·sheet, and then set them in the oven (at moderate heat), to be baked of a very light-brown colour ; when done, shake a very little sifted sugar over them, and serve them quite hot.
Currants, dried cherries, sultanas, or citron may be used instead of the candied-peel.
Ingredients required :—Puff-paste trimmings, three whole eggs, three ounces of sugar, one ounce of ratafias, half an ounce of candied orange-flowers, one ounce of butter and a little salt.
Put the above into a basin having a spout. The ratagisd and orange-flowers must be bruised, and the butter merely melted. Work the whole well together with a wooden spoon until the batter presents the appearance of a rich creamy-looking substance; it must then be instantly poured into two dozen small deep tartlets lined with puff-paste trimmings ; shake a rather thick coating of sifted sugar over the mirlitons, and when it has nearly melted on their surface, put them in the oven (at very moderate heat), and bake them of a light-fawn colour. When the mirlitons are done, the centre should rise out from the tartlet to the height of about half an inch, resembling the crown of a boy’s cap.
These cakes may also be flavoured with chocolate grated previously to its being added to the preparation, or with pistachios or almonds; both of these must be pounded first. They may also be flavoured with different essences. Previously to pouring the batter into the tartlets, a spoonful of apricot or pine-apple jam may be placed in them.
Puff-paste or large D’Artois cakes, prepared as directed in the foregoing cases, may be garnished either with apple marmalade, mince-meat, or any kind of preserve. In this case, however, when the cake has been covered in with the puff-paste, previously marking out the design on its surface, it must be egged over with a paste-brush ; when it has been baked of a bright-yellow colour, shake some finely-sifted sugar over it; after which put it back again in the oven for a minute or two, and then pass the red-hot salamander over it to give it a bright glossy appearance. The same direction applies to the smaller DʼArtois cakes.
Cut a dozen ripe apricots into quarters, and put them into a small sugar-boiler or stewpan, with the kernels extracted from the stones, four ounces of pounded sugar, and a spoonful of water ; stir this over the stove-fire until the fruit has dissolved into a jam, and then withdraw the stew pan from the fire.
Roll out some trimmings of puff-paste, or else about half a pound of short-paste, to the diameter of about eight inches ; place this on a circular baking-sheet, and with the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, twist the paste round the edges, so as to raise it in imitation of cording ; then cut up a dozen ripe apricots into quarters, and place these in close circular rows on the paste, shake some sifted sugar (mixed with some rind of lemon) over the apricots, and then bake the tourte (at moderate heat). When it is done, pour the marmalade of apricots over the others ; shake some sifted sugar mixed with a teaspoonful of cinnamon-powder over the surface ; dish the tourte on a napkin, and serve it either hot or cold. This kind of tourte may be made of every kind of fruit, following in each case the directions for the preparation of German tourte of apricots, not forgetting the cinnamon-sugar.
Peel about a dozen apples; cut them in quarters, and take out the cores; after which, put them into a stewpan with eight ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, the rind of a lemon rubbed on a piece of sugar, and two tablespoonfuls of water ; toss the apples over a slow fire until they are about half done, and then remove them from the fire. While the apples are being prepared, roll out a piece of short-paste, in a circular form, the eighth part of an inch thick, and about the size of a dinner-plate; wet this round the edge ; then fasten a rolled cord of paste, the thickness of a small finger, within an inch of the edge, and pile the prepared apples up in the centre in the form of a dome. Next spread some apricot-marmalade over the surface, and cover the whole in with a circular piece of puff-paste ; press them together round the edges, wet the extremities, then with the forefinger and thumb of the right hand, twist or fold the edge over in the form of a cord. Let the turnover now be egged all over with a soft paste-brush dipped in some beaten white of egg; then strew some rough granite-sugar over the entire surface, and bake it of a light colour.
These turnovers may also be made of all kinds of plums, the only diligence in their mode of preparation being that they need not undergo any dressing previous to placing them in the paste, except that the stone should be removed. The plums, peaches, or apricots must be piled up in several rows forming a dome, with some pounded-sugar between each layer ; and some of the same kind of fruit the turnover is made of should first boiled down to a jam, for the purpose of masking the fruit with, preparatory to its being covered in.
Ingredients :—One ounce of flour, two ounces of pounded-sugar, one ounce of rattans, three gills of cream one whole egg, and six yolks, one ounce of candied orange-flowers, a small pat of butter, and a very little salt, half a pound of trimmings of puff-paste. Place sugar, the flour, the bruised ratafias, and the eggs in a spouted basin; work the whole well together, and then add the cream, a very little salt, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and mix these in with the bater. Line a dozen dariole-moulds with some trimmings of puff-paste; place these on a baking-sheet; put a very small piece of butter at the bottom of each dariole, and then after stirring the batter well together, pour it in the moulds; strew the candied-flowers on the top of each, and set them in the oven (at moderate heat) to bake. When done, the darioles should be slightly raised in the centre and of a light colour ; take them out of the moulds without breaking them ; shake some finely-sifted sugar over them, and serve them hot.
Darioles may also be flavoured with vanilla. lemon, orange, coffee, or chocolate.
Chop six ounces of Jordan almonds as fine as possible ; mix them with four ounces of sifted sugar, some grated rind of lemon, and the white of an egg: the whole should present the appearance of a rather firm paste. Next, make half a pound of puff-paste, to which give eight turns or foldings, and roll this out to the thickness of the eighth part of an inch ; then with a tin cutter, of an oval, circular, crescent, diamond, or any other fancy shape, stamp out about eighteen Condés, and place them on a baking-sheet, previously wetted over with a paste-brush to receive them. Spread a coating of the prepared chopped almonds on the surface of each; shake some fine sugar over them with the dredger, and bake them of a very light-fawn colour.
Make one pound of puff-paste, and give it seven turns or foldings ; then, take one-third of it, and after kneading this well together, roll it out to the size of a square baking-sheet measuring about fourteen inches by twelve, and lay the paste upon it ; next spread a rather thick layer of apricot jam over the paste to within about an inch of the edges; then, roll out the remainder of the puff-paste to the size of the baking-sheet, and place it neatly over the surface of the apricot ; fasten it round by pressing upon the edges with the thumb, and trim the edges by cutting away the superfluous paste from the sides with a knife.
The DʼArtois must now be marked out in small oblong shapes with the back part of a knife ; and after the whole surface has been egged over, score them very neatly, forming a kind of feather-pattern on each cake. Bake them of a bright, light-brown colour ; and when they are done, shake some finely-sifted sugar over them out of the dredger ; put them back again in the oven for a minute or two, to melt the sugar, and then pass the red-hot salamander over them to give to the pastry a bight glossy appearance. When the D’Artois have become sufficiently cold, cut them up, and serve them, dished up in several circular rows piled on a napkin.
Note.—This kind of pastry may also be garnished with Pethiviers cream, pastry custard, apple marmalade, or any other kind of preserve.
Ingredients :—Four ounces of flour, four ounces of sugar, six yolks of eggs, two ounces of butter, one pint of cream or milk, one ounce of ratafias, a spoonful of orange-flower water, and a very little salt.
Mix the flour, sugar, and salt, with two whole eggs, in a stewpan with a wooden spoon ; then add the cream and the butter, and stir the whole over the stove-fire until it boils : it must then be well worked together, so as to make it smooth. Withdraw the spoon, and after putting the lid on the stewpan, place the cream in the oven, or on a slow stove-fire partially smothered in ashes, that it may continue to simmer gently for about twenty minutes ; the cream must then be put out into a basin, and the bruised ratafias, the yolks of eggs, and the orange-flower water must be added; after this put four ounces of butter into a small stewpan on the fire, and as soon as it begins to fritter, and has acquired a light-brown colour (which gives to it the sweet flavour of nuts), add it also to the cream and let the whole be well mixed. Use this cream to garnish various kinds of pastry according to directions given in the several articles for which it is intended.
Ingredients required :—Half a pint of milk, four ounces of flour, two ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, six ounces of cream-curd, the rind of an orange rubbed on sugar, a very little salt, and half a pound of puff-paste.
Put the milk, butter, sugar, and salt into a stewpan on a stove-fire, and as soon as they begin to simmer, fill in the flour by stirring the whole with a wooden spoon for two or three minutes over the fire; then add the curd (from which all the superfluous moisture must be extracted, by pressing it with a napkin), and work in the eggs one after the other, remembering that this paste must be kept to about the same substance as for Petits-choux.
Make half a pound of puff-paste, and give it nine turns; roll this out to the eighth of an inch in thickness; stamp out about two dozen circular pieces with a tin cutter about two inches in diameter, and place them in neat order on a baking-sheet, about an inch apart from each other; then place a good teaspoonful of the preparation described above, in the centre of each; wet them round the edges, and then turn up the sides so as to form each of them in the shape of a three-cornered hat; egg them over with a paste-brush; bake them of a light-brown colour; and when they are withdrawn from the oven, shake some fine sugar over them. These cakes may be served either hot or cold.
Give seven turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll it out to the thickness of the sixth of an inch ; then stamp out twenty circular pieces with a fluted cutter, about an inch and a half in diameter, and after wetting each of them with a paste-brush dipped in water, fold them up, at the same time pressing the two parts of the paste slightly, so as to cause them to adhere closely together. They must then be placed on a baking-sheet in rows, egged over, and baked of a bright-light colour ; just before they are done, some fine sugar should be shaken over with a dredger, and they must then be put back again in the oven for a little while to melt the sugar ; pass the red-hot salamander over, and withdraw them. Previously to serving this kind of pastry, a broad strip of red-currant, or apple jelly, should be placed across the centre.
Give six turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll it out to the thickness of a quarter of an inch; cut this into bands about three inches wide; then cut these again into strips rather better than a quarter of an inch wide, and place them (on the cut side) on a baking-sheet in rows about two inches apart, so as to allow them sufficient room to spread out. Bake these strips of paste in a rather sharp oven; and just before they are done, glaze them—that is, shake some fine sugar over, and then salamander them. About two dozen of these are required for a dish; they must be spread with some kind of preserve, and stuck together in pairs, to imitate bread-and-butter. Dish them up on a napkin, piled up in several circular rows, in a pyramid.
This kind of pastry may also be dished up with some stiffly-whipped cream, seasoned with a glass of liqueur in the centre.
Give eight turns to half a pound of puff-paste, and roll this out to the sixth part of an inch in thickness; then stamp out twenty circular pieces with a fluted tin cutter, about one inch and three-quarters in diameter, and stamp out the centre of these with a plain circular cutter, about three-quarters of an inch in diameter; next place the rings on a wet baking-sheet; shake some fine sugar over them, and bake them of a very light colour (at very moderate heat). When they are done, decorate them with some whipped white of egg and sugar, over which strew some coarse sugar; put them to dry in a screen; and then finish decorating them, by placing or inserting some strips of currant or apple-jelly between the folds or dots of the decoration.
Note.—Puff-paste turned or folded eight times, then rolled out to the thickness of the sixth part of an inch, and stamped out with appropriate fancy-shaped tin cutters—either in the form of crescents, leaves, trefoil, or shamrock, stars, &c., and after being baked as directed in the foregoing case, may also be decorated in the same manner : a comet of paper should be used for this purpose.
Give seven turns to half a pound of puff-paste, roll it out as in the foregoing cases, and then cut it up into square pieces measuring rather better than two inches each way ; wet these in the centre, and then fold down the comers, so as to make them all meet in the middle of the piece of paste ; place a dot of paste in the centre of each, pressing it down with the end of the finger ; egg them over, and bake them in a rather sharp oven, of a fine, bright, light colour ; and just before they are done, shake some finely-sifted sugar over them ; put them back again in the oven to melt the sugar, and then pass the red-hot salamander over them to give them a glossy appearance. Decorate this kind of pastry with red-currant or apple jelly.
Give nine turns to half a pound of puff-paste, roll it out to the thickness of the eighth of an inch, and then cut this into bands about five inches in width, and divide these into narrow strips a quarter of an inch wide. Take four of these strips, and after fastening them together at one end, with a little egg or water, plait them neatly but rather loosely together, and when finished, fasten the ends. As each plait is completed, place it on a baking-sheet, and when they are all ready, egg them over and bake them of a light colour; and when done, let then be glazed as usual; just before sending these cakes to table, decorate them by placing in the small cavities some dots of bright currant or apple jelly, and some greengage jam.
Make half a pound of tart-paste (No. 953) , roll it out rather thin, then stamp out twenty circular flats, with a fluted cutter suited to the size of the tartlets, and use them to line the moulds; fill each tartlet with a spoonful of apple marmalade; cover them in with a mosaic* of paste, egg them over, place them on a baking-sheet, and bake them of a light colour ; when done, shake some fine sugar over them, and use the red-hot salamander to give them a glossy appearance.
*Mosaic-boards for tartlets may be had, of all sizes and patterns at any turner’s shop. To cut out impressions from these it is necessary to use small circular flats of raised pie-paste, which must be placed on the board, and pressed into the design, by rolling it with a paste-pin ; the superfluous paste must then be cut or shaved away, and the mosaic of paste that remains in the design shakes out of the board.
Prepare some apple marmalade with about a dozen apples. Split also a dozen apples into halves ; peel them, and remove the cores ; and then place them in a deep sauctapan thickly spread with butter ; shake some sugar and grated lemon-peel over them, and bake them in the oven. Prepare next a small quantity of pastry-custard No. 790), also an ornamented case (No. 519), which should be partially baked. When the foregoing articles are ready, nearly fill the case with the marmalade of apples, leaving an opening or well in the centre; then pile the pieces of apples upon the marmalade in the form of a dome, leaving the centre hollow ; fill this with the pastry-custard, and cover the whole with some orange-marmalade. Next, whip four whites of eggs quite firm ; mix in four ounces of sifted sugar, and use this meringue-paste to finish the apples, according to the design placed at the head of this article : this is done by first masking over the entire surface of the dome formed by the apples with a smooth coating of the prepared whites of eggs, and then with a paper-cornet, filled with some of the same, marking out the design. When this has been effected, shake some sifted sugar upon it, and bake the meringue of a very light fawn-colour. Just before sending this entremêt to table, finish ornamenting it by filling up the inner part of the cross with alternate stripes or layers of red currant and apple jellies, and also with greengage or apricot jam : these must be arranged so as to show their colours distinctly, which will produce a very pretty effect. This entremêt should be served hot.
First, line the bottom of a plain round Charlotte mould (see Adams' Illustrations) with small thin circular shapes of bread stamped out with a tin cutter the size of a halfcrown-piece; dip these in clarified butter, and let them be placed in circular order—overlaying each other until the bottom is covered,—at the same time placing one of these pieces in the centre to completely cover the bottom of the mould. Next, line the sides of the mould with thin oblong pieces of bread cut an inch wide, the sixteenth of an inch thick, and of sufficient length for the depth of the mould ; these must also be dipped in the butter before they are placed in the mould in the manner represented in the annexed woodcut. The Charlotte is now to be filled with well reduced apple marmalade made as follows: viz.,—peel, core and slice up eighteen apples; put them in a stewpan with half a pint of water, two ounces of butter an a piece of cinnamon and lemon-peel tied together ; set the lid on, and place the stewpan to boil over a brisk fire until the apples are dissolved ; then add twelve ounces of sugar, and stir the marmalade on the fire until reduced to a thick substance, bearing in mind that it must be stirred constantly while on the fire to prevent its becoming burnt. Then, the Charlotte being filled with the marmalade, cover in the top with a thin round piece of bread made to fit the inner circle of the fingers of bread : place it on a baking-sheet, and set it in a rather brisk oven to be baked of a light colour; and when turned out on its dish, pour some diluted apricot jam round the base, and serve.
Line the tartlet-pans as above : then garnish them with halves of small apples, previously turned and divested of the cores, and afterwards parboiled in a little syrup in which the piece of a lemon has been squeezed. Bake the tartlets, and when they are done, dilute some apricot jam with a little of the syrup ; use this to mask the apples in the tartlets ; and then place a preserved cherry on the centre of each.
Stone two pounds of Kentish cherries ; put them into a small sugar-boiler with three-quarters of a pound of pounded sugar; toss them in this, then set them on the stove-fire, and allow them to boil about five minutes : the cherries must then be strained on a sieve, and the syrup reduced to about one-third part of its quantity, then added to the cherries, and kept in a small basin. Line two dozen small tartlet pans with short-paste or tart-paste (the flats being stamped out with a fluted cutter) ; knead as many small pieces of paste as there are tartlets, and after dipping them in flour, press one of them into each of the tartlets ; place them on a baking-sheet, and put them in the oven (moderately heated) to be baked of a light colour. When they are nearly done, withdraw them, and take out the pieces of paste; shake some fine sugar over them, and then glaze them with the red-hot salamander. Just before serving the tartlets, fill them with the cherries.
Note.—Raspberries, currants, gooseberries, and all kinds of plums may be prepared for tartlets by gently boiling them for a few minutes in about a pint of syrup ; the fruit should then be drained on a sieve, and the syrup reduced to one-third of its original quantity, and kept with the fruit in a small basin to fill the tartlets with, as in the foregoing case.
Give eight turns to half a pound of puff-paste (No. 323) ; roll it out to the thickness of the sixth part of an inch, and then with a circular tin cutter about one inch and three-quarters in diameter, stamp out twenty flats ; again use a small cutter measuring one inch in diameter, to stamp out the centre of these ; next gather up the trimmings, knead them together and roll them out to the eighth part of an inch in thickness, and stamp out as many flats as there are rings; place them on a wetted baking-sheet, moisten the edges with a soft brush dipped in water; stick the rings of paste on these; shake some sugar over them with the dredger, and bake them of a very light colour (at very moderate heat.) When the tartlets are done, mask the bands or rings with a little meringue-paste ; dip them either in some chopped or very finely-shred pistachios or almonds, and place them in the screen to dry : previously to serving these tartlets, they maybe filled either with cherries, currants, plums, &c., prepared as directed above, or else with any kind of preserve.
Prepare two dozen puff-paste tartlets as directed above, and fill each of them with a spoonful of apricot or greengage jam; wet round the edges, and place a mosaic of paste on the top of each; egg these over slightly, and bake them of a light colour; when they are done, shake some fine sugar over them, and glaze them with the red-hot salamander.
Prepare some small slender finger-biscuits; spread them with apricot or greengage jam, and stick two of them together; then hold one at a time on a fork ; mask them over slightly with some meringue-paste, and with a paper-cornet filled with some of the same, draw parallel lines across the cakes in a slanting direction ; when they are all completed, shake some sugar over them, and put them in the oven to be baked, or rather dried of a very light-fawn colour. When done, insert some very narrow strips of currant jelly, greengage jam and apple jelly, between the bars of the decoration.
Peel the apples, remove the cores, cut them in slices or quarters, and arrange them neatly in the pie-dish : then add the quince, which must be sliced thin and stewed with a little water, sugar, and a bit of butter, in a small stew pan over a slow fire ; add sugar enough to sweeten the quantity of apples required for the tart, and some grated lemon-peel; cover the tart with puff paste, first placing a band of paste upon the wetted edge of the dish, and then, after wetting the band, place the cover upon its place, and having pressed it down all round, cut the edge evenly all round, scollop it with the back of a knife; decorate the top with leaves of paste ; egg it over and bake it; and when done, dredge it over with sugar, and salamander it.
If mellow pears be used for the purpose, the foregoing instructions may be followed ; but if stewing pears are made use of, they must first be stewed with a little water, sugar, and a few cloves and lemon-peel. When the pears are cold, put them in the dish ; use tart paste to cover it, and half bake it; sprinkle it over with water and white of egg whisked together; shake sifted sugar over the surface, and put it back in the oven to finish baking of a light colour.
When the larger kinds of stone fruits are used for making tarts, such as peaches, apricots, &c., the stones must be taken out and cracked, and the kernels placed upon the top of the fruit in the dish. Add a spoonful of water, and sugar enough to sweeten ; cover with tart-paste, and finish as in the preceding case.
For making cherry or damson tarts, follow the same directions, except that the stones should not be removed.
Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and mulberries, may be treated in the same way.