Francatelli Recipes for Cold Entrees, Chapter 30
Welcome to Celtnet's Francatelli Recipes for Cold Entrees — This page gives you the entire contents of the Thirtieth Chapter: Cold Entrees, or Chicken, Lobster, and Fish Salads, or Mayonaises from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
CHAPTER XXX.
No. 929.—CHICKENS A LA BELLE-VUE.
Truss and boil off two spring-chickens, and when cold, mask them all over with white Béchamel sauce previously mixed on the ice, with a third proportion of stiff aspic jelly ; place them on their dish; ornament their breasts with designs stamped out with tin cutters from thin slices of black truffle, or red tongue, or with spread leaves of tarragon and chervil; garnish round the base with some chopped aspic jelly, and a border of bold croutons of the same.
Note.—Small turkeys, large fowls, pheasants, or partrifges may be treated in the same manner, for ball-suppers, &c.
No. 930.—HAM WITH ASPIC JELLY.
Prepare the ham as directed in No. 450, and when quite cold, and trimmed as represented in the woodcut, let it be garnished with aspic jelly.
No. 931.—TONGUE WITH ASPIC JELLY.
Prepare a tongue as directed in No. 394, and when quite cold and glazed, place it on its dish, and ornament it with aspic jelly.
No. 932.—GALANTINE OF POULARDE.
Bone a poularde, or turkey, or a large fowl ; draw the skin of the legs and wings inside ; spread out the boned fowl flat upon the table ; season with pepper and salt and a little aromatic spices ; spread a layer of sausagemeat an inch thick upon this; add some long squares of red tongue or ham, and some small black truffles, and a few pistachio-kernels; repeat the sausage-meat, the seasoning, and the tongue, &c.; and having sufficiently filled up the galantine, sew it up with twine, roll it in a buttered napkin, fasten the ends with string, and set it to braise in some well-seasoned veal and calf's feet stock for about an hour and half. When done, the galantine must be allowed to become partially cold in its own stock, in order that it may thus preserve its mellowness and savour. The galantine must be put in press between dishes, with a fourteen-pound weight on the top, and when quite cold, removed from the napkin ; the string must be taken out, and the galantine having been glazed and placed on its dish, ornament it with aspic jelly.
No. 933.—MAYONAISE OF FOWL.
Cut up a cold fowl into small joints; steep them in a basin with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt ; drain them on a cloth ; dish them up in a pyramidal form, on a thick bed of seasoned shred-lettuces ; mask them all over smoothly with some white mayonaise sauce, No. 37 ; garnish round the base with a border of neatly-cut quarters of hard-boiled eggs, the hearts of lettuces, olives, fillets of anchovies, or croutons of aspic jelly ; ornament the top with a few sprigs of tarragon or chervil, or with aspic jelly.
No. 934.—MAYONAISE OF LOBSTER.
This is prepared nearly in the same manner as the foregoing, using the meat of the lobster cut into collops for the purpose ; colour the Tartare sauce, No. 38, with lobster spawn or coral, pounded and mixed with some of the sauce, and rubbed through a sieve to smooth it; or when the lobster-salad has been sauced over with either mayonaise or Tartare sauce, some powdered and sifted lobster coral may be sprinkled over the surface; garish as indicated for mayonaise of fowl.
No. 935.—MAYONAISE OF FILLETS OF SOLES.
Simmer the fillets of two soles in a saucepan with a little butter, lemon-juice, pepper and salt; and when done, put them in press between two dishes ; when cold, divide each fillet into collops two and a half inches long ; trim them neatly ; season them with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt ; and dish them in pyramidal rows on a bed of shred lettuce or any other salad; mask with mayonaise sauce, No. 37, coloured with some spinach greening, or merely with plenty of very finely-chopped tarragon and chervil ; garnish round the base of the salad with a border of hard eggs, &c., and serve.
No. 936.—MAYONAISE OF SALMON.
Boil a pound of salmon, and when cold, cut it up into pieces about two inches long, by one inch wide, and half an inch thick; and use them to prepare and finish a mayonaise in the manner indicated in the foregoing case.
Note.—The remains of salmon, turbot, brill, or soles, may be used, as a matter of economy, for any of the foregoing purposes.
No. 937.—GROUSE SALAD.
Roast off a grouse, and with the trimmings prepare a salmis sauce as directed in No. 68; reduce this stiffly; and having mixed in a third proportion of aspic jelly, use it to mask the joints of grouse with a rather thick coating of the sauce, and set them on a dish upon rough ice to become set firm. Place a thick bed of seasoned shred lettuce on the centre of the dish; and upon this foundation build up the joints of grouse; garnish round the base with a border of curled celery, and an outer border of quarters of hard eggs ; pour some white mayonaise sauce, No. 37, round, between the bottom of the joints of grouse and the celery ; place an ornament of aspic jelly on the top, and serve.
No. 938.—FRICASSEE CHAUDFROID.
Boil a chicken in some white veal stock, and use the stock to make some highly-seasoned and stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce, No. 17; cut up the chicken into small neat joints ; mask them all over with the sauce, and place them on a dish to become cold, and set firm ; dish them up in a pyramidal pile; garnish and ornament with aspic jelly.
No. 939.—SALMIS CHAUDFROID OF PARTRIDGES.
Cut up two roast partridges into small joints, and use their trimmings to prepare a stiffly-reduced salmis sauce, No. 68 ; add thereto one-third proportion of aspic jelly ; mix together, and use the sauce to mask the joints of partridges, which, after the sauce has become set firm upon them, are to be dished up in a pyramidal form, garnished with aspic jelly and a few truffles, or pre pared white cocks’ combs.
Note.—This dish may be prepared also with pheasants, plovers, woodcocks, quails, &c., for ball-suppers. &c.
No. 940.—POTTED FOWL AND HAM.
Roast if a chicken, and while hot, remove all the meat from the bones, and with these make a little broth, well seasoned with herbs and spice, and boil it down to a glaze : chop the meat with six ounces of cooked ham, and pound both together in a mortar into a smooth pulp ; add the glaze, and four ounces of clarified butter; pound well together, and put closely in small flat earthen pie-pots; cover these in with clarified butter, and keep them in a cool place for use.
No. 941.—POTTED TONGUE.
Any tongue left from a previous dayʼs dinner should be divested of all hard parts, and pounded with a fourth proportion of clarified butter, seasoned with cayenne, put into pots, and covered in with clarified butter.
No. 942.—POTTED PHEASANT.
Roast off a pheasant, remove all the meat from the bones, and put them into a small stewpan with a glass of sherry, ditto of mushroom-catsup, four shallots, a bay-leaf, and thyme, a bit of ham, and a quart of good gravy ; boil this down to a glaze, and strain it into a basin. First chop, and then pound all the meat in a mortar to a smooth pulp; add the glaze, six ounces of clarified butter, salt, and cayenne pepper ; pound all together, and fill small pots with this ; cover in with clarified butter.
No. 943.—POTTED HARE.
Cut up the hare into joints or pieces, and set them aside on a plate ; next, cut up two pounds of streaky bacon into square pieces the size of walnuts, and fry these in a stewpan; then add the pieces of hare, and fry those also with the bacon; add a handful of mushrooms, two bay leaves, some thyme, basil and winter savoury, two cloves of garlic, twenty cloves, three blades of mace, a teaspoonful of black peppercorns, a tablespoonful of salt, a pint of madeira, and a pinch of cayenne; put the lid on, and set all this to simmer very gently in the oven for an hour and a half. The hare must then be strained from its liquor ; all the meat is to be removed from the bones, chopped, pounded ; all the grease and bacon added and pounded into a smooth pulp, and then rubbed through a wire sieve on to a dish, and afterwards put into a large kitchen-pan, to be mixed up with the liquor from the hare. If the liquor or stock from the hare measures more than a pint, it should be boiled down to that quantity, and about four ounces of good glaze should be added. Fill some ordinary preserving pie pans with the preparation, cover them over with common flour·and-water paste, set the pans thus far prepared in deep sautapans, or baking-sheets with a little water at the bottom; and put them to bake in an oven of moderate heat for about one hour; they must then be taken out, the meat pressed down level with a spoon ; some clarified butter or lard poured over the top in sufficient quantity to cover in the meat; and as soon as they are become cold, let the pans be covered over with strong white papers moistened on one side with whites of egg ; and when perfectly dry, oil the surface of the paper over with a brush, and put the potted hare in a very cool place, to be kept for use, as occasion requires.
Note.—Any kind of game or other meats, treated in this manner, will keep good for months.
No. 944.—POTTED BEEF, SPICED.
Cure a piece of gravy-beef, weighing about three pounds, as directed for curing pressed beef, No. 393, using the same ingredients in proportion to the present quantity of meat ; and, at the end of ten days, cut up the beef into four-ounce pieces, and put these in a stewpan with two quarts of water, two cloves of garlic, two bay-leaves, thyme, basil, winter savory and marjoram, in small quantities; a dozen cloves, a blade of mace, twenty black peppercorns, and a spoonful of celery-seeds; put the lid on, and set the whole to stew very gently over a slow fire for two hours. Strain the liquor into a basin, and first chop and then pound the beef in a mortar, until reduced to a smooth pulp ; add the liquor (previously boiled down with four ounces of good glaze to the value of half a pint) ; pound all together again with half a pound of Clarified butter added, and use this to fill up small pots, which are to be covered in with clarified butter.
No. 945.—POTTED LOBSTER.
Remove all the meat, pith, and coral, from a fresh-boiled lobster, and pound it in a mortar until reduced to a smooth pulp ; then add a teaspoonful of anchovy, a pinch of cayenne, a little powdered mace, and four ounces of clarified butter; pound all together thoroughly ; put it into pots; smooth over the surface; cover in with clarifled butter, and keep it in a cool place.
Note.—Another way—which some may prefer—is to pound only one-half of the lobster, while the remainder is cut up into small squares, and mixed in with the preparation. The only objection to this method is,— that people are apt to be tempted to swallow the relish without sufficient mastication to render it digestible.
No. 946.—POTTED SHRIMPS.
Pick all the tails free from shells from a quart of fresh-boiled shrimps; pound the shells in a mortar with four ounces of clarified butter, a small blade of mace, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and a pinch of cayenne; put this in a stew pan with a little bruised lobster spawn, and stir it over the fire for six or eight minutes; rub it through a coarse hair sieve; add the tails to this preparation ; make all hot together, and use it to fill small pots with ; cover in with clarified butter, and keep them in a cool place for use.
Note.—Prawns are excellent, treated in the same way.
No. 947.—POTTED BLOATERS.
Cut off the heads and tails from six fresh-cured Yarmouth-bloaters; immerse them in scalding water, to remove the skins ; take out the backbones, and put them in a stewpan with six ounces of clarified butter, a bit of mace, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and a pinch of cayenne; simmer all together over a slow fire for ten minutes ; pound in a mortar, rub through a coarse hair sieve, and use this preparation to fill small pots, which must be covered in with clarified butter, and kept in a cool place for use.
Note.—Smoked salmon or dried haddocks, treated in the same manner as bloaters, will furnish other delicate relishes for the breakfast and tea table.
No. 948.—AROMATIC HERBACEOUS SEASONING.
Take of nutmegs and mace one ounce each, of cloves and peppercorns two ounces of each, one ounce of dried bay-leaves, three ounces of basil, the same of marjoram, two ounces of winter savory, and three ounces of thyme, half an ounce of cayenne·pepper, the same of grated lemon-peel, and two cloves of garlic; all these ingredients must be well pulverised in a mortar, and sifted through a fine wire sieve, and put away in dry corked bottles for use.
No. 948A.—HOW TO FRY PARSLEY.
Let the parsley be picked free from stalks, washed and trimmed, placed in a wire basket, and dipped in plenty of hot frying fat; and afterwards drained and dried before the fire.
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
Francatelli's Chapter XXX: Cold Entrees, or Chicken, Lobster, and Fish Salads, or Mayonaises.
CHAPTER XXX.
COLD ENTEES, OR CHICKEN, LOBSTER, AND FISH SALADS, OR MAYONAISES.
Truss and boil off two spring-chickens, and when cold, mask them all over with white Béchamel sauce previously mixed on the ice, with a third proportion of stiff aspic jelly ; place them on their dish; ornament their breasts with designs stamped out with tin cutters from thin slices of black truffle, or red tongue, or with spread leaves of tarragon and chervil; garnish round the base with some chopped aspic jelly, and a border of bold croutons of the same.
Note.—Small turkeys, large fowls, pheasants, or partrifges may be treated in the same manner, for ball-suppers, &c.
Prepare the ham as directed in No. 450, and when quite cold, and trimmed as represented in the woodcut, let it be garnished with aspic jelly.
Prepare a tongue as directed in No. 394, and when quite cold and glazed, place it on its dish, and ornament it with aspic jelly.
Bone a poularde, or turkey, or a large fowl ; draw the skin of the legs and wings inside ; spread out the boned fowl flat upon the table ; season with pepper and salt and a little aromatic spices ; spread a layer of sausagemeat an inch thick upon this; add some long squares of red tongue or ham, and some small black truffles, and a few pistachio-kernels; repeat the sausage-meat, the seasoning, and the tongue, &c.; and having sufficiently filled up the galantine, sew it up with twine, roll it in a buttered napkin, fasten the ends with string, and set it to braise in some well-seasoned veal and calf's feet stock for about an hour and half. When done, the galantine must be allowed to become partially cold in its own stock, in order that it may thus preserve its mellowness and savour. The galantine must be put in press between dishes, with a fourteen-pound weight on the top, and when quite cold, removed from the napkin ; the string must be taken out, and the galantine having been glazed and placed on its dish, ornament it with aspic jelly.
Cut up a cold fowl into small joints; steep them in a basin with a little oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt ; drain them on a cloth ; dish them up in a pyramidal form, on a thick bed of seasoned shred-lettuces ; mask them all over smoothly with some white mayonaise sauce, No. 37 ; garnish round the base with a border of neatly-cut quarters of hard-boiled eggs, the hearts of lettuces, olives, fillets of anchovies, or croutons of aspic jelly ; ornament the top with a few sprigs of tarragon or chervil, or with aspic jelly.
This is prepared nearly in the same manner as the foregoing, using the meat of the lobster cut into collops for the purpose ; colour the Tartare sauce, No. 38, with lobster spawn or coral, pounded and mixed with some of the sauce, and rubbed through a sieve to smooth it; or when the lobster-salad has been sauced over with either mayonaise or Tartare sauce, some powdered and sifted lobster coral may be sprinkled over the surface; garish as indicated for mayonaise of fowl.
Simmer the fillets of two soles in a saucepan with a little butter, lemon-juice, pepper and salt; and when done, put them in press between two dishes ; when cold, divide each fillet into collops two and a half inches long ; trim them neatly ; season them with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt ; and dish them in pyramidal rows on a bed of shred lettuce or any other salad; mask with mayonaise sauce, No. 37, coloured with some spinach greening, or merely with plenty of very finely-chopped tarragon and chervil ; garnish round the base of the salad with a border of hard eggs, &c., and serve.
Boil a pound of salmon, and when cold, cut it up into pieces about two inches long, by one inch wide, and half an inch thick; and use them to prepare and finish a mayonaise in the manner indicated in the foregoing case.
Note.—The remains of salmon, turbot, brill, or soles, may be used, as a matter of economy, for any of the foregoing purposes.
Roast off a grouse, and with the trimmings prepare a salmis sauce as directed in No. 68; reduce this stiffly; and having mixed in a third proportion of aspic jelly, use it to mask the joints of grouse with a rather thick coating of the sauce, and set them on a dish upon rough ice to become set firm. Place a thick bed of seasoned shred lettuce on the centre of the dish; and upon this foundation build up the joints of grouse; garnish round the base with a border of curled celery, and an outer border of quarters of hard eggs ; pour some white mayonaise sauce, No. 37, round, between the bottom of the joints of grouse and the celery ; place an ornament of aspic jelly on the top, and serve.
Boil a chicken in some white veal stock, and use the stock to make some highly-seasoned and stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce, No. 17; cut up the chicken into small neat joints ; mask them all over with the sauce, and place them on a dish to become cold, and set firm ; dish them up in a pyramidal pile; garnish and ornament with aspic jelly.
Cut up two roast partridges into small joints, and use their trimmings to prepare a stiffly-reduced salmis sauce, No. 68 ; add thereto one-third proportion of aspic jelly ; mix together, and use the sauce to mask the joints of partridges, which, after the sauce has become set firm upon them, are to be dished up in a pyramidal form, garnished with aspic jelly and a few truffles, or pre pared white cocks’ combs.
Note.—This dish may be prepared also with pheasants, plovers, woodcocks, quails, &c., for ball-suppers. &c.
Roast if a chicken, and while hot, remove all the meat from the bones, and with these make a little broth, well seasoned with herbs and spice, and boil it down to a glaze : chop the meat with six ounces of cooked ham, and pound both together in a mortar into a smooth pulp ; add the glaze, and four ounces of clarified butter; pound well together, and put closely in small flat earthen pie-pots; cover these in with clarified butter, and keep them in a cool place for use.
Any tongue left from a previous dayʼs dinner should be divested of all hard parts, and pounded with a fourth proportion of clarified butter, seasoned with cayenne, put into pots, and covered in with clarified butter.
Roast off a pheasant, remove all the meat from the bones, and put them into a small stewpan with a glass of sherry, ditto of mushroom-catsup, four shallots, a bay-leaf, and thyme, a bit of ham, and a quart of good gravy ; boil this down to a glaze, and strain it into a basin. First chop, and then pound all the meat in a mortar to a smooth pulp; add the glaze, six ounces of clarified butter, salt, and cayenne pepper ; pound all together, and fill small pots with this ; cover in with clarified butter.
Cut up the hare into joints or pieces, and set them aside on a plate ; next, cut up two pounds of streaky bacon into square pieces the size of walnuts, and fry these in a stewpan; then add the pieces of hare, and fry those also with the bacon; add a handful of mushrooms, two bay leaves, some thyme, basil and winter savoury, two cloves of garlic, twenty cloves, three blades of mace, a teaspoonful of black peppercorns, a tablespoonful of salt, a pint of madeira, and a pinch of cayenne; put the lid on, and set all this to simmer very gently in the oven for an hour and a half. The hare must then be strained from its liquor ; all the meat is to be removed from the bones, chopped, pounded ; all the grease and bacon added and pounded into a smooth pulp, and then rubbed through a wire sieve on to a dish, and afterwards put into a large kitchen-pan, to be mixed up with the liquor from the hare. If the liquor or stock from the hare measures more than a pint, it should be boiled down to that quantity, and about four ounces of good glaze should be added. Fill some ordinary preserving pie pans with the preparation, cover them over with common flour·and-water paste, set the pans thus far prepared in deep sautapans, or baking-sheets with a little water at the bottom; and put them to bake in an oven of moderate heat for about one hour; they must then be taken out, the meat pressed down level with a spoon ; some clarified butter or lard poured over the top in sufficient quantity to cover in the meat; and as soon as they are become cold, let the pans be covered over with strong white papers moistened on one side with whites of egg ; and when perfectly dry, oil the surface of the paper over with a brush, and put the potted hare in a very cool place, to be kept for use, as occasion requires.
Note.—Any kind of game or other meats, treated in this manner, will keep good for months.
Cure a piece of gravy-beef, weighing about three pounds, as directed for curing pressed beef, No. 393, using the same ingredients in proportion to the present quantity of meat ; and, at the end of ten days, cut up the beef into four-ounce pieces, and put these in a stewpan with two quarts of water, two cloves of garlic, two bay-leaves, thyme, basil, winter savory and marjoram, in small quantities; a dozen cloves, a blade of mace, twenty black peppercorns, and a spoonful of celery-seeds; put the lid on, and set the whole to stew very gently over a slow fire for two hours. Strain the liquor into a basin, and first chop and then pound the beef in a mortar, until reduced to a smooth pulp ; add the liquor (previously boiled down with four ounces of good glaze to the value of half a pint) ; pound all together again with half a pound of Clarified butter added, and use this to fill up small pots, which are to be covered in with clarified butter.
Remove all the meat, pith, and coral, from a fresh-boiled lobster, and pound it in a mortar until reduced to a smooth pulp ; then add a teaspoonful of anchovy, a pinch of cayenne, a little powdered mace, and four ounces of clarified butter; pound all together thoroughly ; put it into pots; smooth over the surface; cover in with clarifled butter, and keep it in a cool place.
Note.—Another way—which some may prefer—is to pound only one-half of the lobster, while the remainder is cut up into small squares, and mixed in with the preparation. The only objection to this method is,— that people are apt to be tempted to swallow the relish without sufficient mastication to render it digestible.
Pick all the tails free from shells from a quart of fresh-boiled shrimps; pound the shells in a mortar with four ounces of clarified butter, a small blade of mace, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and a pinch of cayenne; put this in a stew pan with a little bruised lobster spawn, and stir it over the fire for six or eight minutes; rub it through a coarse hair sieve; add the tails to this preparation ; make all hot together, and use it to fill small pots with ; cover in with clarified butter, and keep them in a cool place for use.
Note.—Prawns are excellent, treated in the same way.
Cut off the heads and tails from six fresh-cured Yarmouth-bloaters; immerse them in scalding water, to remove the skins ; take out the backbones, and put them in a stewpan with six ounces of clarified butter, a bit of mace, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and a pinch of cayenne; simmer all together over a slow fire for ten minutes ; pound in a mortar, rub through a coarse hair sieve, and use this preparation to fill small pots, which must be covered in with clarified butter, and kept in a cool place for use.
Note.—Smoked salmon or dried haddocks, treated in the same manner as bloaters, will furnish other delicate relishes for the breakfast and tea table.
Take of nutmegs and mace one ounce each, of cloves and peppercorns two ounces of each, one ounce of dried bay-leaves, three ounces of basil, the same of marjoram, two ounces of winter savory, and three ounces of thyme, half an ounce of cayenne·pepper, the same of grated lemon-peel, and two cloves of garlic; all these ingredients must be well pulverised in a mortar, and sifted through a fine wire sieve, and put away in dry corked bottles for use.
Let the parsley be picked free from stalks, washed and trimmed, placed in a wire basket, and dipped in plenty of hot frying fat; and afterwards drained and dried before the fire.