Francatelli Recipes for Plain Entrees and Side Dishes, Chapter 13
Welcome to fabulousFusionFood's Francatelli Recipes for Plain Entrees and Side Dishes — This page gives you the entire contents of the Thirteenth Chapter: Plain Entrees or Side Dishes for Every Day Fare. from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
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CHAPTER XIII.
No. 526.—HASHED BEEF.
CUT, slice, or shave the beef in small thin collops of slices, and put these into a stew pan with a dessert spoonful of flour, and a little pepper and salt ; shake all together ; add a small wineglassful of mushroom catsup and half a gill of gravy or water; stir over the fire for a few minutes until quite hot, and dish up with sippets of dry toast round the hash.
No. 527.—HASHED BEEF ANOTHER WAY.
Chop an onion fine, and put it into a stewpan with a wineglassful of vinegar and an equal quantity of catsup ; set this on the fire to boil down to half the original quantity ; then add a gill of good stock, and the prepared beef, floured and seasoned as in the preceding case; boil together for five minutes, and serve.
No. 528.—HASHED BEEF WITH PICKLED WALNUTS.
Prepare the hashed beef as demonstrated in either of the preceding cases, and when dished up, garnish it with a few whole pickled walnuts, carefully warmed without bruising them, in some of their own catsup. A little Oude sauce imparts an appetising relish to all kinds hashes.
No. 529.—MINCED BEEF.
Cut the beef from the bones; break them up with a cleaver (see Adams’ Illustrations) ; put them in a stewpan with onion, carrot, thyme, and two cloves; moisten with a quart of water, and boil gently until reduced to less than half ; and when done, strain, remove all grease, and make this into rather less than half a pint of good sauce. Chop the beef fine; put it with the sauce in a stewpan, add a little grated lemon-peel, a very little nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of Harvey; stir over the fire until quite hot, and serve with poached eggs placed round the mince.
No. 530.—GRILLED BONES.
Blade-bones from shoulders of mutton or lamb are generally preferred as a relish of this kind ; but, of course, any other bones with some meat on them will serve the purpose in a case of emergency. Score the meat on the bones twice crosswise ; season plentifully with pepper and salt ; then crisp without burning them, and serve with hot mushroom or walnut catsup.
Note.—Grilled bones are sometimes served as an accompaniment with hashed beef or mutton.
No. 531.—DEVILLED BONES.
Score the bones, saturate them with Devilʼs mixture, No. 128, grill them crisp, and serve dry.
No. 532.—BUBBLE-AND-SQUEAK.
This is a favourite dish with some people, and is available when it happens that you have had boiled beef the day before ; it is certainly preferable to a cold dinner.
Cut the beef and its fat in slices about the sixth of an inch in thickness, and fry them quickly over a brisk fire, just enough to warm the meat through without drying it, and dish it up round some chopped or small cut dressed cabbage, carrots, and parsnips, seasoned with pepper and salt, and fried with butter. No sauce.
Note.—It is usual when people are fond of bubble-and-squeak to boil sufficient vegetables with the beef for a dish of bubble-and-squeak the next day.
No. 533.—RUMP-STEAK, PLAIN. &c.
A rump-steak, to be eaten in perfection, should be cut from rich-grained well-kept beef—that is, having been killed some ten days, weather permitting ; the steak should be an inch thick: it must not be flattened nor beaten. This custom, too common with cooks and butchers, is a vain attempt to make tough meat tender by bruising the fibres of the flesh. Prepare ready fissures for all the juices of the meat to run out, either before or while it is being cooked.
A steak should not be cut from the rump any length of time before it is required to be cooked, as in dry weather the current of air absorbs its moisture, while the effect of a milder atmosphere occasions all the gravy to exude.
Thus, under the supposition that you are fortunate enough to command a tender steak, season it with pepper and salt, and broil it on a clean gridiron over a clear fire, carefully turning it every two minutes until it is done,—that is, well done or under·done, according to taste. Put it on its dish, upon a pat of fresh butter, place another pat upon it; and the addition of half a lemon squeezed over it, with a tablespoonful of Harvey, will compel you to admit, that even at that celebrated club to which, under the infliction of bad cookery at home, you are so very often driven to resort for better fare, you could not have hoped for anything more perfect.
Note.—Steaks may be varied by serving, as a garnish or accompaniment, fried onions, fried potatoes, onion, or mushroom, or oyster sauce, separately.
No. 534.—OX-KIDNEY GRILLED.
Cut the kidney in slices about half an inch thick ; season with pepper and salt on both sides ; place them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil them until done on both sides : they must then be dished up on a hot dish, with maître-dʼhôtel butter, No. 127, under them, and served immediately.
No. 535.—STEWED OX-KIDNEY.
Cut the kidney in thin slices, and fry them with butter in a saucepan over a quick fire, season with chopped mushrooms, parsley and shallot, pepper and salt ; shake in a tablespoonful of flour; add a little Harvey sauce, lemon-juice, and a gill of stock or water ; stir over the fire until the whole has simmered together for five minutes, and dish up with sippets of dry toast all round the dish.
No. 536.—BEEF COLLOPS.
Cut a steak or some fillet of beef into thin slices measuring about two inches in diameter, and fry these with butter in a saucepan until done on both sides; shake in a little flour, add a dozen oysters and a little Harvey sauce, lemon-juice, pepper, and a teaspoonful of anchovy ; simmer over the fire until the oysters are done, and then dish up.
Note.—Mushrooms, truffles, olives, or gherkins may be used instead of oysters ; a little sherry may be added in any of these cases.
No. 537.—ROILED BEEF COLLOPS.
Chop some mushrooms, parsley and shalots ; fry these with an ounce of butter ; season with nutmeg, pepper and salt, and lemon-juice, add two yolks of eggs ; stir over the fire until the fine-herbs are thickened, and then divide this composition among the prepared thin collops of beef, and roll them up in the form of small bolsters ; place them in a saucepan in some clarified butter ; set them in the oven for ten minutes; and when done, drain and dish them up neatly: pour some brown oyster sauce, No. 44, over them. and serve.
No. 538.—BEEF AU GRATIN.
This dish is most appropriately served as part of a judicious system of economy, when it happens that some remains of a joint of braised or roast-beef are left from a previous day’s dinner; in which case, the beef should be cut into thin neat slices, and immediately dished up cutlet-wise, one overlapping the other (the same dish in which they are intended to be sent to table should be used for the purpose) ; season with chopped parsley and shallot, pepper and salt; moisten all over with a gill of good gravy, or water mixed with Harvey or catsup ; strew some brown raspings over the surface of the beef : sprinkle a little dissolved butter over this ; push in the hot oven for ten minutes, and when the whole has be come quite hot, send to table.
No. 539.—MIRONTON OF BEEF.
Remains of beef from a previous day's dinner are also appropriate for the economical preparation of this most excellent though unpretending dish. Cut six onions in thin slices, and fry them in a stew pan with two ounces of butter, over a slow fire until browned ; then add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with nearly a pint of good gravy, or water and catsup, season with pepper and salt, stir over the fire to boil for ten minutes, and then pour this over the slices of beef already dished up on a dish that will bear the heat of the oven without breaking; strew some raspings of bread over the surface, bake for a quarter of an hour, and serve while hot.
A spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell’s Oude sauce might be an improvement in the composition of this appetising entree.
No. 540.—TOAD·IN-THE-HOLE.
This very objectionable title enables me to usher in to your special notice a dish possessing some claims to consideration, when prepared with care as follows: viz.,—cut up about two pounds of tender steak or ox-kidney, or half of each, into rather thick collops about three inches in diameter ; season with pepper and salt; fry rem over a sharp fire, merely to brown them without their being done through ; place the collops in neat order a buttered pie-dish ; detach the brown glaze from the bottom of the pan in which you have fried the beef, with gravy or water, and a little catsup, and pour the residue to the collops in the dish; then add a well-prepared batter for Yorkshire pudding, No. 292, gently poured upon the meat, bake for about an hour, and serve while quite hot. This excellent old English dish will occasionally prove a welcome addition to the dinner-table or paterfamilias.
No. 541.—VINEGARET OF BEEF.
Cut small and very thin slices of cold-braized or well boiled beef, and put them in a salad-bowl with sliced beetroot, quarters of hard-boiled eggs, and a few sliced cold kidney potatoes ; season with pepper and salt, three tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, and two of Crosse and Blackwellʼs fine-herbs vinegar, chopped parsley and shalot; mix well, and serve either for luncheon or as part of a make-up dinner.
No. 542.—BOILED TRIPE.
Procure any given quantity, say two pounds, of clean dressed fat tripe ; cut it in pieces of about three inches square, and boil these in a stew pan with eight onions, three pints of milk, a tablespoonful of salt and twenty-four peppercorns; the tripe, &c., must boil gently for an hour, and when about to send to table, remove all grease from the surface, and serve altogether in a soup-tureen or deep dish, with onion sauce, separately.
No. 543.—FRIED TRIPE.
For this purpose the tripe should be previously boiled in milk or stock for half an hour, and when cold, each piece dipped separately in some frying batter, No. 288, and fried crisp in some hot frying fat or lard ; when done, dish up with fried paisley on a napkin, and some tomato, piquante, poor-man’s, Provençale, or Lyonnaise sauce, served separately in a sauce-boat.
No. 544.—STEWED TRIPE.
Slice up six onions; fry them with two ounces of butter until browned ; then add two ounces of flour, a tablespoonful of Captain White’s (Crosse and Blackwellʼs) curry-paste; moisten with a pint of stock, or water ; stir over the fire until the sauce boils; then add the pieces of tripe and a little more stock ; stew all together gently for an hour; and when done, remove all grease, and serve hot.
No. 545.—BAKED TRIPE.
Fry six sliced onions brown with some butter, and place this with the pieces of tripe in an earthen pot or pan (having a lid) ; shake a good tablespoonful of flour over the tripe; add a tablespoonful of Indian Chutnee, a pint of cider, and salt to season ; place the lid on the pan, and set it in a moderately-heated oven to bake for about an hour and a quarter, and when done, remove the grease from the surface. Serve the tripe in the pan it has been baked in, with a clean napkin pinned round it.
No. 546.—PORK CHOPS.
The best pork chops are those cut from the kidney and of the loin, having part of the kidney left adhering to the chop; they should be seasoned with pepper and salt, broiled carefully of a light-brown colour on both sides; and when done, served with sage-and-onion gravy, No 297, and apple sauce, No. 50: tomata, piquante, Robert, and Provincial sauces, form appropriate relishes with pork chops.
No. 548.—PIG'S FRY.
A pigʼs fry consists of the liver, heart, lights, melt, and the chitterlings : these are severally cut into slices, and after being floured over, should be fried with butter in a pan over a brisk fire, very quickly until browned all over. When done, they should be seasoned with pepper and salt. dished up with fried parsley, and served with sage-and-onion gravy, No. 297.
No. 549.—CURRIED PORK.
Take—say two pounds of pork cut from any part of the pig, provided that it be not too fat ; separate this into square pieces about the size of an egg ; fry them brown with some butter in a stewpan ; then add six chopped onions previously fried, a tablespoonful of Crosse and Blackwell’s curry powder, and an equal quantity of curry paste, a little salt, and nearly pint of stock or water ; stir the whole over the fire until it boils, and then set it to simmer slowly for about three quarters of an hour. When done, dish up the pieces of pork neatly ; reduce the sauce; pour it over the curry, and send to table with plain boiled rice in a separate dish
No. 550.—HASHED MUTTON PLAIN.
Cut up the mutton intended to be hashed into very thin small slices; shake a little flour, pepper, and salt over them, and throw them into a stew pan wherein has been boiling some finely-chopped onion with a little broth or water ; season with pepper and salt, and a little Harvey ; boil together for three minutes, and serve with sippets of dry toast round the dish. The bones, grilled, may be added.
No. 551.—MUTTON HASHED VENISON FASHION.
For this purpose the roast mutton should be cut in rather larger and thicker slices; Flour and season them over with pepper and salt, and set them aside on a plate ; next, put some chopped shallot in a stewpan with a dessert-spoonful of Oude sauce, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, two glasses of port wine, a little Harvey, and a large tablespoonful of currant jelly ; add the prepared mutton; boil together for five minutes, and serve hot, with French beans in a separate dish, when in season. When hashed mutton prepared as herein indicated is made with four-year-old mutton, it is equal to venison.
No. 552.—HASHED MUTTON A L'INDENNE.
Boil a chopped onion in half a pint of broth for ten minutes, then add a dessert-spoonful of Captain White’s curry paste, and the sliced mutton floured and seasoned ; simmer together over the fire for five minutes, and serve in a border of plain-boiled rice.
Note.—In addition to the foregoing methods for hashing mutton, it may also be prepared as directed for beef.
No. 553.—MINCED MUTTON.
Chop the mutton fine, or else cut it up into very small thin shreds ; and set this aside on a plate ; put an ounce of butter, ditto of flour. and a little chopped shalot in a stewpan, and stir this over a very slow fire until it assumes the lightest-fawn colour ; then moisten with a glass of port, ditto of Harvey, grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, pepper and salt ; add the minced mutton ; stir all together over the fire until quite hot, and serve with poached eggs on the top, and a border of potato croquets round the base.
Note.—Currant jelly may be added, if suited to taste.
No. 554.—MUTTON CHOPS.
These must never be batted or beaten; season with pepper and salt ; broil over a clear fire ; turn them that they may retain their own gravy, and serve each chop on a separate hot plate. The addition of a little chopped shallot, and a bit of fresh butter placed under each chop is no bad thing by way of a relish.
No. 555.—MUTTON OUTLETS PLAIN.
Saw off the upper rib-bones from a neck of mutton, leaving the bones, which are to form the cutlets, about three inches long : remove the spine-bone with a small saw ; pare away the flat bones which adhere to the meaty fillets of the neck, and then separate the bones into cutlets by cutting slantwise to the left ; trim the cutlets neatly without waste; season with pepper and salt ; broil them and dish them up with plain gravy : they may also be dished up round mashed potatoes, and shallot gravy, No. 64, poured round.
No. 556.—MUTTON OUTLETS BREAD-CRUMBED.
Trim the cutlets as directed in the foregoing number; season with pepper and salt ; pat closely some bread-crumbs on each cutlet, and then having dipped them separately in some clarified butter, bread-crumb them again ; broil the cutlets on both sides over a clear fire, dish then up, and serve with plain gravy under them.
Note.—Cutlets prepared as above may also be served with thick purées of peas, asparagus, turnips, chestnuts, carrots, onions, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, with Jardinières, Macédoines, all kinds cf dressed vegetables, and also with the following sauces, viz. ;—piquante, tomata, Italian, poor-man’s, Robert, Lyonnaise, &c.
No. 557.—STEWED SHEEPS KIDNEYS.
Split six kidneys in halves; remove the skin ; slice up each half very thinly ; fry this with an ounce of butter in a sautapan, until browned; then shake in a little flour, chopped mushrooms, parsley and shalot ; season with pepper, salt, and lemon-juice ; add a glass of sherry ; stir over the tire for five minutes, and serve hot: mushrooms or truffles may be added.
No. 558.—SHEEP’S KIDNEYS A L'EPICURIEUNE.
Draw a knife nearly through each kidney from the outer or rounded part of the kidney, without dividing it ; remove the skins; season with pepper and salt, dip the kidneys in clarified butter and crumb them ; run them on skewers, and having broiled them over a clear fire, let them be dished up, presenting the hollow part uppermost; fill this well with Tartar sauce, No. 38; pour some Devilʼs sauce, No. 83, round. the base, and serve.
No. 559.—SHEEP'S KIDNEYS WITH FINE-HERBS.
Prepare and broil the kidneys as indicated in the preceding ease, and when done and dished up, fill the well of each kidney with a lump of maître-dʼhôtel butter, No. 127 ; pour a very little glaze gravy under them, and serve hot.
No. 560.—SHEEPʼS TROTTERS.
These are easily obtained ready cleaned and parboiled, from all tripe-shops throughout the country : they should be put on to boil in water with carrot, onion, celery, garnished bouquet, salt, lemon, or a little vinegar, six cloves, and a few peppercorns. They require about two hours' very gentle boiling to cook them thoroughly ; and when done, should be split, freed from all unnecessary bones, and especially of the hoot and a dingy-looking curled substance of a very offensive character, which is found situated between the separation of the hoof : dish up the feet neatly, and pour some Poulette sauce, N o. 36, over them, and serve.
No. 561.—CALF’S LIVER AND BACON.
Cut the liver in slices about a quarter of an inch thick, and cut also some streaky bacon into small thin slices, or, as they are familiarly termed, rashers; fry the bacon first, and drain it on a plate; next, after having floured the pieces of liver, fry these also in the fat from the bacon, and when browned on both sides. dish up the liver and bacon in a circular row, placing a piece of each alternately : drain off the fat from the pan in which the liver has been fried; shake in a little flour: add a wineglassful of catsup, a little pepper and salt, and half a gill of stock or water; stir altogether over the fire, until the sauce boils, and pour it over the dished-up liver and bacon.
Note.—A few sliced gherkins, mushrooms, pickled walnuts, or even mixed pickles, may be added to the sauce.
No. 562.—CALF’S LIVER A LA MODE.
Cut up about six ounces of bacon into long square strippets or lardons, and insert these at equal distances in the interior part of the liver; fry it whole in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a clove of garlic. thyme, bay-leaf and parsley—tied together, an onion stuck with eight cloves, and a bit of mace; and when the liver is equally browned all over, add carrots, turnips, and onions, neatly turned of equal size, a glass of brandy, and stock or water, barely enough to cover the whole; allow this to simmer very gently for about two hours, taking care to baste the liver frequently with its own liquor. When done, place the liver on its dish, garnished round with the vegetables ; strain the stock, remove the grease, add a glass of wine and a little Harvey, boil it down to the quantity needed to sauce the liver, pour it over, and serve.
No. 563.—SCOTCH COLLOPS.
Cut about a pound of veal cutlet into thin collops or slices, about two inches in diameter ; season them with chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt ; dip each piece in beaten egg, crumb them over with bread-crumbs, and fry them with a little clarified butter in a sautapan, of a very light-brown colour; dish them up, placing alternately a veal collop and a small thin piece of fried bacon ; pour some piquante sauce over them, and serve.
Note.—If more convenient, the same sauce as indicated in No. 561, may be used.
No. 564.—VEAL CUTLETS WITH MUSHROOMS.
Cut up a pound or more of veal cutlets into oval, oblong, or heart-shaped cutlets, about a quarter of an inch thick; season with pepper and salt, fry them brown on both sides, and dish them up—alternately with small thin slices of fried ham, or bacon; drain off half the butter from the pan, shake in a tablespoonful of flour, some mushroom catsup, and a handful of mushrooms; moisten with a gill of stock or water; boil all together for five minutes; pour the sauce over the outlets, and serve.
No. 565.—MINCE VEAL WITH POACHED EGGS.
Minced veal is most appropriately served when it happens that some portion of a previously-dressed joint is left ; in which case all the meat should be cut from the bones, minced into very small thin shreds, and set apart in a stewpan ; the bones are to be broken up, and put in a stewpan with an onion, carrot, celery, half a bay-leaf, thyme, parsley, two cloves, a few peppercorns, a little salt, and about a quart of water; set this to boil gently for an hour, and when done, strain it, and having removed all grease, make it into white sauce,—see No. 15 ; and having stirred the sauce over the fare until reduced to the quantity required for your purpose, strain one half into a small stewpan, and add the remainder to the minced veal ; season with nutmeg, grated lemon peel, pepper and salt ; make it hot ; pile it up in the centre of the dish ; garnish it round with poached eggs, and very small pieces of rolled thin bacon fried; pour the other half of the sauce over the minced veal and round the base of the entrée, and serve.
No. 566.—CALF’S BRAINS A LA RAVIGOTTE.
The two lobes of the brains should be separated with a knife, and after being soaked in cold water for a while, the caul or skin which envelops them must be gently removed with the fingers ; and, after remaining in fresh water a little longer, they should be slowly boiled in half a pint of water seasoned with a spoonful of vinegar, a little sliced onion, carrot, bay-leaf, thyme, pepper and salt : and when the brains are done, they should be drained, cut in thick collops, and dished up like cutlets, sauced over with ravigotte, No. 34, and garnished round with potato croquets.
567.—CALF'S BRAINS WITH NUT-BROWN BUTTER.
Prepare and dish up the brains as indicated in the preceding case; pour some nut-brown butter, No. 54, over them; garnish the centre with fried parsley, and serve.
No. 568.—CALFʼS BRAINS FRIED.
The brains are to be prepared in the first instance as shown in No. 566, and when cold, are to be cut into slices—lengthwise—of about a quarter of an inch in thickness ; these must be dipped in frying batter No. 288, fried in sufficient very hot lard, or other frying fat—to make them swim : turn them lightly over the whole time they are being fried, in order that they may be equally browned all over ; and when done, and crisp, drain and dish them up on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve one of the following sauces separately in a sauce-boat: viz.,—tomata, piquante, poor-manʼs, ravigotte, Robert, &c.
No. 569.—CALF’S BRAINS IN CASES, AU GRATIN.
The brains, after being cleansed, boiled, and cut into small collops, must be added to some well-seasoned Allemande, Béchamel, ravigotte, or maître-d’hôtel sauce—previously made hot ; mix them gently in this, and with the preparation fill some paper cases, No. 325 ; strew fried bread-crumbs upon the tops ; push in the oven for a few minutes ; dish up the cases on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve hot.
Note.—Ham, tongue, truffle, mushrooms, or any kind of pickles may be added in small quantities.
No. 570.—CALF’S FEET A LA BOURGEOISE.
Split and bone a couple of calf’s feet, and parboil them in water for ten minutes; they are then to be placed in a stew pan with half a pound of raw ham or gammon of bacon, and a pound of knuckle of veal, two carrots cut in equal shapes and sizes, six or eight onions, four cloves, a garnished faggot of parsley, a wineglass of mushroom catsup, pepper and salt ; moisten with a quart of broth or water; put the lid on, and set the feet, &c., to stew very slowly indeed by the side of the fire for about two hours and a half, taking care to turn the meat, &c., over occasionally, in order that the whole may become gradually glazed all over alike : care must be taken while the feet, &c., are stewing, that by the time they are done, the stock or liquor should be allowed gradually to boil down to the quantity required for saucing the dish ; and when all is done quite soft and tender, dish up the whole of the meats with the vegetables round them; pour the gravy over all, and serve.
No. 571.—CALF’S FEET A LA Puluette.
As a general rule, calf's feet are first boiled in water without any addition, for the purpose of extracting their gelatine for making jellies ; but, even then, provide the feet are not too much done, as to become worthless, they should be drained on a dish, seasoned with a little vinegar, chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt, and after being allowed time to become fully impregnated with this seasoning, should be made hot with a good bit of glaze and a couple of Indian gherkins sliced up.
Note—Calfʻs feet prepared as above may also be warmed in some Poulette, fine-herbs, tomato, piquante, or ravigotte ease.
No. 572.—.CALFS FEET FRIED.
When the feet have been boiled, seasoned as in No. 571, and are cold, cut them in pieces the size of a small cutlet; dip each piece in batter, No. 288 ; fly them in hot fat, and when become crisp, let them be drained on a cloth, dished up on a napkin with or without fried parley, and some tomata, piquante, or ravigotte sauce, served separately.
No. 573.—LAMB'S HEAD GALLIMAUFRIED.
See Sheep's; Head, No. 423.
No. 574.—LAMB’S FRY.
Lamb's fry consists of the heart, liver, melt, brains, kidneys, the fill, breads, and other delicacies; these should be cut in slices, seasoned with pepper and salt, floured ever, and fried crisp; and when browned on both sides, should be dished up with fried parsley, and served with good gravy or any sharp sauce.
No. 575.—LAMB'S FEET A LA POULETTE.
Lamb’s feet are always easily obtained ready scalded and boned from the butcher or the tripe-shop. They should be put in a stewpan with an onion stuck with flour cloves, a sliced carrot, garnished faggot of parsley, peppercorns, enough salt to season, the pulp of a lemon, four ounces of chopped suet, and sufficient water to let hem swim; put the lid on, and boil them very gently until done—this will take about an hour. When about to dish up, the feet must be drained on a cloth, all the large bones removed, and a black curled noisome substance taken out from between the hoofs ; this done, place the feet neatly piled in their dish; pour some Poulette sauce with mushrooms, No. 36, over them; garnish with potato croquets, and serve.
No. 576.—LAMB CHOPS BREADED.
Lamb chops are best when out with a slice of the kidney and its fat left adhering to the chop; they should be seasoned with pepper and salt, dipped in clarified butter, well crumbed over with fresh bread crumbs, and carefully broiled of a light-golden brown on both sides, and served with fried parsley and tomata sauce.
No. 577.—LAMB CUTLETS WITH CUCUMBERS.
Trim a neck of lamb as demonstrated in No. 555, and prepare the cutlets in exactly the same manner. When done, glaze them over, and having dished them up in a circular row, fill the centre with cucumber garnish, No. 109, pour some of the sauce round the base of the cutlets; and serve.
No. 578.—LAMB CUTLETS A LA ROBERT.
Trim the outlets, season with pepper and salt, dip them in beaten egg and crumb them over, and pat the crumbs on closely ; dip each cutlet in some clarified butter, crumb them again, and pat them into shape with the blade of a knife; broil the cutlets over a clear fire, of a light colour, and when done, and glazed over,—dished up, and sauced round with some Robert sauce, No. 35, send to table.
No. 579.—ROASTED SWEETBREADS.
Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for a couple of hours to draw all the blood out, and by this means render them more delicate and white; parboil them in water for five minutes, immerse them in cold water to cool them, and trim away all extraneous parts in the form of sinew and skin : next, dip a paste-brush in two raw yolks of eggs, and having rubbed the sweetbreads all over with the egg, and rolled them in fine bread-crumbs, you then sprinkle them over with clarified butter, and bread-crumb them again, and place them in a sautapan containing about two ounces of dissolved butter, and set them in a sharp oven to bake for about half an hour, basting them frequently with the butter from the pan. When they are done of a light-golden brown, dish them up with plain gravy (if for a delicate, or convalescent person), or else garnish them with any kind of dressed vegetables; and they may be sauced with any kind of white sauce.
No. 580.—SWEETBREAD CUTLETS.
First soak and parboil the sweetbreads as directed in the foregoing case, and when cold, cut them in thin slices lengthwise ; trim them neatly into shape without waste ; season the cutlets thus produced with pepper and salt ; brush them over with raw yolks of eggs ; bread-crumb them, and after dipping each in clarified butter, crumb them over again; pat them into shape ; fry them on both sides with clarified butter in a sautapan, and when done, glazed, and dished up, garnish the centre with any kind of dressed vegetable ; pour some Allemande, Béchamel, or gravy round the base, and serve.
No. 581.—BEEFSTEAKS A LA FRANCAISE.
These are cut from that part of a rump or sirloin of beef which is called the fillet—better known to most English people by the apellation of "the under-cut from a sirloin ;"—for this purpose procure about a pound and a half of filet of beef ; pare if all sinew and excess of fat; cut the fillet in slices about half an inch thick, and season them on a plate, with a little oil, pepper and salt; broil on both sides—a little under-done; dish them up with maître-d’hôtel butter, No. 127, under them; garnish round with fried potatoes ; glaze the beefsteaks, and serve before the butter is melted
No. 582.—BEEFSTEAK A LA CHATEAUBRIAND.
In this case the fillet, when trimmed, should be cut in slices an inch thick, seasoned with oil, pepper and salt, grilled with their gravy pouring from them when dished up, garnished with mushrooms au gratin, No. 676, and périgueux sauce poured over them.
No. 583.—BEEFSTEAKS WITH ANCHOVY BUTTER.
Prepare the fillet steaks—and broil them as directed in No. 581, and when dished up, place anchovy butter, No. 128, under them; fried potatoes in the centre; glaze the steaks, and serve.
No. 584.—EPICUREAN BEEFSTEAK.
Prepare the fillet steaks as shown in No. 582; dish them up with epicurean butter, No. 130, under them; pour truffle sauce, No. 65, over them; garnish round with oval slices of potatoes fried, and serve.
No. 585.—FILLETS OF BEEF A LA SOUBISE.
These are prepared as in No. 581 ; and previously to dishing them up, some Soubise sauce, No. 58, should be piled in the centre of the dish; and the grilled fillets of beef being neatly placed round this, pour a little half glaze round the dish, and serve.
Note.—Fillets of beef, or steak-fillets, prepared as directed in No. 581, may also be served with all kinds of dressed vegetables as a garnish ; or with any of the under-named sauces; viz., tomata, piquante, Provençale, oyster, Lyonnaise. mushroom, &c.
No. 586.—CALFS HEAD AND BACON.
Thee half of a calfʼs head is generally considered enough for any ordinary purpose : this should be first soaked in cold water for an hour or so, parboiled in water with salt for twenty minutes, and then placed in with an onion stuck with six cloves, carrot, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, a bit of mace, and a good tablespoonful of salt, a little chopped suet and the pulp of a lemon; moisten with enough water to let the calf's head swim, and set the whole to boil gently for about an hour and a half; and when done, place the head on its dish, cut the tongue in collops, and place these at one end, the brains (having been prepared as in No. 566) at the other end, and some small rashers of fried bacon in the flanks of the dish; pour some parsley sauce, No. 48, over the calf’s head, and serve.
No. 587.—CALF’S HEAD HASHED.
The calf’s head for hashing must be prepared in the first instance as directed in the foregoing case; or, it may happen, the remains of a calf’s head dressed for a previous dayʼs dinner, will do equally as well for hashing. In either case, the head must be cut in neatly trimmed pieces, about the size and form of a five-shilling piece and placed in a stewpan. Next, chop six shallots and put this in a stew pan with a tablespoonful of Crosse Blackwellʼs Indian Chutnee, and a wineglassful of vinegar ; boil this down to half its original quantity; then add a pint of the stock in which the calf's head has been boiled, two ounces of glaze, and an ounce of butter kneaded with an ounce and a half of flour ; stir this sauce over the fire to boil for a quarter of an hour, and then strain it to the pieces of calf's head ; add a little browning to give it a rich colour; simmer all together for ten minutes ; pile up the pieces of calfʼs head in the centre of the dish ; garnish round with fried eggs and Indian gherkins; pour the sauce over the whole, and serve.
No. 588.—CALF’S HEAD BROILED.
Boil half a calfs head as shown in No. 586; and when done, take it out of its stock, and set it in a cool place to become half cold. Next, place the head on a greased baking-dish; rub two yolks of raw eggs all over the surface; sprinkle thickly some fried bread-crumbs, No. 296; upon this pour a little of the stock on the dish to keep the head moist; sprinkle an ounce of dissolved butter over the crumbing ; push the dish containing the head in the oven to bake for about twenty minutes, and when quite hot, place it on its dish ; garnish it with the tongue, brains, and small slices of fried bacon ; sauce round with piquante sauce, No. 22, and serve.
No. 589.—CALF’S HEAD A LA FINANCIERE.
Bone the calf’s head, and after it has been parboiled in water with salt for twenty minutes, and has cooled, cut it up into pieces about two inches in diameter, or square; trim these neatly, and boil them with the same vegetables, &c., as recommended in No. 586 ; and when done, dish up the head as follows: viz.,—skin, trim, and split the tongue, and lay it flat in the centre of the dish : at each end of this place the ears (previously scraped and curled) ; set the brains on the tongue, and dress the pieces of head in close rows all round; pour a Financière ragout, No. 104, over the dish, and serve.
No. 590.—CALF'S HEAD, TURTLE FASHION.
Let the calf’s head be prepared as in the foregoing case, with this difference, that a bunch of turtle herbs, consisting of basil, marjoram, lemon-thyme, and a little pennyroyal, together with six shallots, should be added. The stock may be used, with the addition of some glaze and madeira to make the sauce, as directed in No. 12, and when finished, should be strained into a bain-marie stewpan (see Adams’ Illustrations).
When about to send to table, dish up the calf’s head, as shown in the preceding number, garnish with decorated quenelles, mushrooms, and crayfish; pour the sauce over all, and serve.
No. 591.—HARICOT OF OX-TAIL.
Divide the ox-tail at the joints, which are indicated by a semi-transparent spot on the sinews which connect the joints ; parboil them in water for ten minutes, and trim away all asperities, so as to give the pieces a smooth, rounded appearance ; put them in a stewpan with carrot, celery, faggot of parsley, an onion stuck with six cloves, a bit of mace, a dozen peppercorns, a spoonful of salt, and two quarts of water; boil very gently for two hours, and when the pieces are become quite tender, take them up on a dish, and set them aside. Strain the stock into a stewpan, remove all grease from its surface, stir in four ounces of brown thickening, No. 9; add about half a pound of shaped carrots, the same of turnips, and eight middle-sized onions; season with pepper and salt; allow the whole to boil very gently until the vegetables are done, and then remove them carefully into a stewpan already containing the pieces of ox-tail; skim the sauce; boil it down if too thin; add a lump of sugar; strain it to the ox-tail, &c. ; allow the haricot to simmer for ten minutes over the fire, and serve neatly in its dish.
No. 592.—OX-TAIL WITH STEWED PEAS.
Stew the ox-tail as directed in No. 591, and when done, remove the pieces into a clean stewpan ; strain their stock, free it from grease, and boil it down to thin glaze : add this to the pieces of tail.
When about to send to table, warm the ox-tail in its glaze ; arrange the pieces in a circle on the dish ; garnish the centre with stewed peas, No. 690; pour the glaze around the base of the ox-tail, and serve.
Note.—Ox-tails prepared as above, may also be served with dressed spinach, Jardinière, Macédoine, or any other kind of dressed vegetable.
No. 593.—OX-TAIL BREADED AND GRILLED.
First braize the ox-tail ; and when done, and cold, trim the pieces neatly ; season them with chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt; egg and bread-crumb them, and after having sprinkled each piece with clarified butter, bread crumb them again ; place the pieces of ox-tail on a sautapan containing an ounce of butter ; push in the oven for about twenty minutes to bake them of a light-golden brown, and when done, dish them up with shalot gravy, No. 64.
Note.—Ox-tails, prepared as above, may also be served with Tartar sauce, No. 38.
No. 594.—BREAST OF MUTTON GRILLED.
A breast of mutton intended for braizing should be first neatly and securely tied with string, like a large paper parcel when it is corded several times across : this operation is needed to prevent the breast from falling to pieces when done, and while it is being taken up, which, from the necessity of its over-brazing, in order render it mellow, would be the case. The breast of mutton being thus corded, let it be braized in some stock garnished with a small complement of vegetables, &c.; and when done quite tender, take it up by the string carefully on to a dish; pull out all the bones, place another dish on the breast to press it smooth without smashing it ; and as soon as cold, cut it into oblong, square, or heart-shaped cutlets : all excess of fat should be pared away ; the outlets should be very lightly scored in diamond tracing, seasoned with pepper and salt, dipped in dissolved butter, and well crumbed over; the crumbing being closely patted on each breast-cutlet with a knife. When about to send to table, grill the cutlets on both sides of a light colour; dish up, and sauced round with piquante, tomata, Italian, or any other kind of sauce best suited to your taste or convenience.
No. 594A.—IRISH STEW.
Cut up about four pounds of either neck or loin of mutton into eight or ten neatly trimmed chops, paring away all excess of fat and rough bone ; season plentifully with pepper, and moderately with salt ; place the chops in a deep stewpan or sautapan, with sufficient water to cover in their surface, add eight good sized onions, put the lid on and set the whole on the fire to stew gently for half an hour ; the stew must then be removed from the fire, the liquor poured into a basin, and after being freed from all grease, is to be poured back to the chops ; add a dozen peeled potatoes, and a pint of good stock or gravy, if handy, or failing that, (in case that the moisture has been reduced to half its original quantity) a like quantity of water will do. The whole is then to be placed on the fire to boil gently for about three quarters in hour, due care being taken that the moisture does not become wholly absorbed by the stew, or burnt at the bottom of the stewpan, as this latter accident would entirely spoil the dish. As soon as the Irish stew is done, let it be dished up as follows, viz,: first remove the potatoes carefully on to a plate, and then use a fork and spoon to place the cutlets or chops neatly round the dish, add the potatoes in their centre, and pour the gravy and onions, &c., over the whole, and serve hot.
Note.—A less expensive method of making Irish stew, is to use the scrag end of a neck of mutton, or indeed any inferior pieces of meat most convenient, as well as the remains of a cooked joint of beef, mutton, or veal.
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Francatelli's Chapter XIII: Plain Entrees or Side Dishes for Every Day Fare.
CHAPTER XIII.
PLAIN ENTREES OR SIDE DISHES FOR EVERY DAY FARE.
CUT, slice, or shave the beef in small thin collops of slices, and put these into a stew pan with a dessert spoonful of flour, and a little pepper and salt ; shake all together ; add a small wineglassful of mushroom catsup and half a gill of gravy or water; stir over the fire for a few minutes until quite hot, and dish up with sippets of dry toast round the hash.
Chop an onion fine, and put it into a stewpan with a wineglassful of vinegar and an equal quantity of catsup ; set this on the fire to boil down to half the original quantity ; then add a gill of good stock, and the prepared beef, floured and seasoned as in the preceding case; boil together for five minutes, and serve.
Prepare the hashed beef as demonstrated in either of the preceding cases, and when dished up, garnish it with a few whole pickled walnuts, carefully warmed without bruising them, in some of their own catsup. A little Oude sauce imparts an appetising relish to all kinds hashes.
Cut the beef from the bones; break them up with a cleaver (see Adams’ Illustrations) ; put them in a stewpan with onion, carrot, thyme, and two cloves; moisten with a quart of water, and boil gently until reduced to less than half ; and when done, strain, remove all grease, and make this into rather less than half a pint of good sauce. Chop the beef fine; put it with the sauce in a stewpan, add a little grated lemon-peel, a very little nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of Harvey; stir over the fire until quite hot, and serve with poached eggs placed round the mince.
Blade-bones from shoulders of mutton or lamb are generally preferred as a relish of this kind ; but, of course, any other bones with some meat on them will serve the purpose in a case of emergency. Score the meat on the bones twice crosswise ; season plentifully with pepper and salt ; then crisp without burning them, and serve with hot mushroom or walnut catsup.
Note.—Grilled bones are sometimes served as an accompaniment with hashed beef or mutton.
Score the bones, saturate them with Devilʼs mixture, No. 128, grill them crisp, and serve dry.
This is a favourite dish with some people, and is available when it happens that you have had boiled beef the day before ; it is certainly preferable to a cold dinner.
Cut the beef and its fat in slices about the sixth of an inch in thickness, and fry them quickly over a brisk fire, just enough to warm the meat through without drying it, and dish it up round some chopped or small cut dressed cabbage, carrots, and parsnips, seasoned with pepper and salt, and fried with butter. No sauce.
Note.—It is usual when people are fond of bubble-and-squeak to boil sufficient vegetables with the beef for a dish of bubble-and-squeak the next day.
A rump-steak, to be eaten in perfection, should be cut from rich-grained well-kept beef—that is, having been killed some ten days, weather permitting ; the steak should be an inch thick: it must not be flattened nor beaten. This custom, too common with cooks and butchers, is a vain attempt to make tough meat tender by bruising the fibres of the flesh. Prepare ready fissures for all the juices of the meat to run out, either before or while it is being cooked.
A steak should not be cut from the rump any length of time before it is required to be cooked, as in dry weather the current of air absorbs its moisture, while the effect of a milder atmosphere occasions all the gravy to exude.
Thus, under the supposition that you are fortunate enough to command a tender steak, season it with pepper and salt, and broil it on a clean gridiron over a clear fire, carefully turning it every two minutes until it is done,—that is, well done or under·done, according to taste. Put it on its dish, upon a pat of fresh butter, place another pat upon it; and the addition of half a lemon squeezed over it, with a tablespoonful of Harvey, will compel you to admit, that even at that celebrated club to which, under the infliction of bad cookery at home, you are so very often driven to resort for better fare, you could not have hoped for anything more perfect.
Note.—Steaks may be varied by serving, as a garnish or accompaniment, fried onions, fried potatoes, onion, or mushroom, or oyster sauce, separately.
Cut the kidney in slices about half an inch thick ; season with pepper and salt on both sides ; place them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil them until done on both sides : they must then be dished up on a hot dish, with maître-dʼhôtel butter, No. 127, under them, and served immediately.
Cut the kidney in thin slices, and fry them with butter in a saucepan over a quick fire, season with chopped mushrooms, parsley and shallot, pepper and salt ; shake in a tablespoonful of flour; add a little Harvey sauce, lemon-juice, and a gill of stock or water ; stir over the fire until the whole has simmered together for five minutes, and dish up with sippets of dry toast all round the dish.
Cut a steak or some fillet of beef into thin slices measuring about two inches in diameter, and fry these with butter in a saucepan until done on both sides; shake in a little flour, add a dozen oysters and a little Harvey sauce, lemon-juice, pepper, and a teaspoonful of anchovy ; simmer over the fire until the oysters are done, and then dish up.
Note.—Mushrooms, truffles, olives, or gherkins may be used instead of oysters ; a little sherry may be added in any of these cases.
Chop some mushrooms, parsley and shalots ; fry these with an ounce of butter ; season with nutmeg, pepper and salt, and lemon-juice, add two yolks of eggs ; stir over the fire until the fine-herbs are thickened, and then divide this composition among the prepared thin collops of beef, and roll them up in the form of small bolsters ; place them in a saucepan in some clarified butter ; set them in the oven for ten minutes; and when done, drain and dish them up neatly: pour some brown oyster sauce, No. 44, over them. and serve.
This dish is most appropriately served as part of a judicious system of economy, when it happens that some remains of a joint of braised or roast-beef are left from a previous day’s dinner; in which case, the beef should be cut into thin neat slices, and immediately dished up cutlet-wise, one overlapping the other (the same dish in which they are intended to be sent to table should be used for the purpose) ; season with chopped parsley and shallot, pepper and salt; moisten all over with a gill of good gravy, or water mixed with Harvey or catsup ; strew some brown raspings over the surface of the beef : sprinkle a little dissolved butter over this ; push in the hot oven for ten minutes, and when the whole has be come quite hot, send to table.
Remains of beef from a previous day's dinner are also appropriate for the economical preparation of this most excellent though unpretending dish. Cut six onions in thin slices, and fry them in a stew pan with two ounces of butter, over a slow fire until browned ; then add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with nearly a pint of good gravy, or water and catsup, season with pepper and salt, stir over the fire to boil for ten minutes, and then pour this over the slices of beef already dished up on a dish that will bear the heat of the oven without breaking; strew some raspings of bread over the surface, bake for a quarter of an hour, and serve while hot.
A spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell’s Oude sauce might be an improvement in the composition of this appetising entree.
This very objectionable title enables me to usher in to your special notice a dish possessing some claims to consideration, when prepared with care as follows: viz.,—cut up about two pounds of tender steak or ox-kidney, or half of each, into rather thick collops about three inches in diameter ; season with pepper and salt; fry rem over a sharp fire, merely to brown them without their being done through ; place the collops in neat order a buttered pie-dish ; detach the brown glaze from the bottom of the pan in which you have fried the beef, with gravy or water, and a little catsup, and pour the residue to the collops in the dish; then add a well-prepared batter for Yorkshire pudding, No. 292, gently poured upon the meat, bake for about an hour, and serve while quite hot. This excellent old English dish will occasionally prove a welcome addition to the dinner-table or paterfamilias.
Cut small and very thin slices of cold-braized or well boiled beef, and put them in a salad-bowl with sliced beetroot, quarters of hard-boiled eggs, and a few sliced cold kidney potatoes ; season with pepper and salt, three tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, and two of Crosse and Blackwellʼs fine-herbs vinegar, chopped parsley and shalot; mix well, and serve either for luncheon or as part of a make-up dinner.
Procure any given quantity, say two pounds, of clean dressed fat tripe ; cut it in pieces of about three inches square, and boil these in a stew pan with eight onions, three pints of milk, a tablespoonful of salt and twenty-four peppercorns; the tripe, &c., must boil gently for an hour, and when about to send to table, remove all grease from the surface, and serve altogether in a soup-tureen or deep dish, with onion sauce, separately.
For this purpose the tripe should be previously boiled in milk or stock for half an hour, and when cold, each piece dipped separately in some frying batter, No. 288, and fried crisp in some hot frying fat or lard ; when done, dish up with fried paisley on a napkin, and some tomato, piquante, poor-man’s, Provençale, or Lyonnaise sauce, served separately in a sauce-boat.
Slice up six onions; fry them with two ounces of butter until browned ; then add two ounces of flour, a tablespoonful of Captain White’s (Crosse and Blackwellʼs) curry-paste; moisten with a pint of stock, or water ; stir over the fire until the sauce boils; then add the pieces of tripe and a little more stock ; stew all together gently for an hour; and when done, remove all grease, and serve hot.
Fry six sliced onions brown with some butter, and place this with the pieces of tripe in an earthen pot or pan (having a lid) ; shake a good tablespoonful of flour over the tripe; add a tablespoonful of Indian Chutnee, a pint of cider, and salt to season ; place the lid on the pan, and set it in a moderately-heated oven to bake for about an hour and a quarter, and when done, remove the grease from the surface. Serve the tripe in the pan it has been baked in, with a clean napkin pinned round it.
The best pork chops are those cut from the kidney and of the loin, having part of the kidney left adhering to the chop; they should be seasoned with pepper and salt, broiled carefully of a light-brown colour on both sides; and when done, served with sage-and-onion gravy, No 297, and apple sauce, No. 50: tomata, piquante, Robert, and Provincial sauces, form appropriate relishes with pork chops.
No. 547.—PORK CUTLETS.
The neck part of small dairy-fed pork, and not over fat, is most appropriate for cutlets. In trimming them, the skin should be left on, and scored or slit at intervals ; the cutlets should be broiled with care, allowing them to become very lightly coloured on both sides; and when done, and dished up, should be glazed over, and one of the following sauces poured round the base: viz,.—piquante, tomata, Provençal, poor-man’s shalot gravy, Robert, or Lyonnaise.
A pigʼs fry consists of the liver, heart, lights, melt, and the chitterlings : these are severally cut into slices, and after being floured over, should be fried with butter in a pan over a brisk fire, very quickly until browned all over. When done, they should be seasoned with pepper and salt. dished up with fried parsley, and served with sage-and-onion gravy, No. 297.
Take—say two pounds of pork cut from any part of the pig, provided that it be not too fat ; separate this into square pieces about the size of an egg ; fry them brown with some butter in a stewpan ; then add six chopped onions previously fried, a tablespoonful of Crosse and Blackwell’s curry powder, and an equal quantity of curry paste, a little salt, and nearly pint of stock or water ; stir the whole over the fire until it boils, and then set it to simmer slowly for about three quarters of an hour. When done, dish up the pieces of pork neatly ; reduce the sauce; pour it over the curry, and send to table with plain boiled rice in a separate dish
Cut up the mutton intended to be hashed into very thin small slices; shake a little flour, pepper, and salt over them, and throw them into a stew pan wherein has been boiling some finely-chopped onion with a little broth or water ; season with pepper and salt, and a little Harvey ; boil together for three minutes, and serve with sippets of dry toast round the dish. The bones, grilled, may be added.
For this purpose the roast mutton should be cut in rather larger and thicker slices; Flour and season them over with pepper and salt, and set them aside on a plate ; next, put some chopped shallot in a stewpan with a dessert-spoonful of Oude sauce, a piece of glaze the size of a walnut, two glasses of port wine, a little Harvey, and a large tablespoonful of currant jelly ; add the prepared mutton; boil together for five minutes, and serve hot, with French beans in a separate dish, when in season. When hashed mutton prepared as herein indicated is made with four-year-old mutton, it is equal to venison.
Boil a chopped onion in half a pint of broth for ten minutes, then add a dessert-spoonful of Captain White’s curry paste, and the sliced mutton floured and seasoned ; simmer together over the fire for five minutes, and serve in a border of plain-boiled rice.
Note.—In addition to the foregoing methods for hashing mutton, it may also be prepared as directed for beef.
Chop the mutton fine, or else cut it up into very small thin shreds ; and set this aside on a plate ; put an ounce of butter, ditto of flour. and a little chopped shalot in a stewpan, and stir this over a very slow fire until it assumes the lightest-fawn colour ; then moisten with a glass of port, ditto of Harvey, grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, pepper and salt ; add the minced mutton ; stir all together over the fire until quite hot, and serve with poached eggs on the top, and a border of potato croquets round the base.
Note.—Currant jelly may be added, if suited to taste.
These must never be batted or beaten; season with pepper and salt ; broil over a clear fire ; turn them that they may retain their own gravy, and serve each chop on a separate hot plate. The addition of a little chopped shallot, and a bit of fresh butter placed under each chop is no bad thing by way of a relish.
Saw off the upper rib-bones from a neck of mutton, leaving the bones, which are to form the cutlets, about three inches long : remove the spine-bone with a small saw ; pare away the flat bones which adhere to the meaty fillets of the neck, and then separate the bones into cutlets by cutting slantwise to the left ; trim the cutlets neatly without waste; season with pepper and salt ; broil them and dish them up with plain gravy : they may also be dished up round mashed potatoes, and shallot gravy, No. 64, poured round.
Trim the cutlets as directed in the foregoing number; season with pepper and salt ; pat closely some bread-crumbs on each cutlet, and then having dipped them separately in some clarified butter, bread-crumb them again ; broil the cutlets on both sides over a clear fire, dish then up, and serve with plain gravy under them.
Note.—Cutlets prepared as above may also be served with thick purées of peas, asparagus, turnips, chestnuts, carrots, onions, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, with Jardinières, Macédoines, all kinds cf dressed vegetables, and also with the following sauces, viz. ;—piquante, tomata, Italian, poor-man’s, Robert, Lyonnaise, &c.
Split six kidneys in halves; remove the skin ; slice up each half very thinly ; fry this with an ounce of butter in a sautapan, until browned; then shake in a little flour, chopped mushrooms, parsley and shalot ; season with pepper, salt, and lemon-juice ; add a glass of sherry ; stir over the tire for five minutes, and serve hot: mushrooms or truffles may be added.
Draw a knife nearly through each kidney from the outer or rounded part of the kidney, without dividing it ; remove the skins; season with pepper and salt, dip the kidneys in clarified butter and crumb them ; run them on skewers, and having broiled them over a clear fire, let them be dished up, presenting the hollow part uppermost; fill this well with Tartar sauce, No. 38; pour some Devilʼs sauce, No. 83, round. the base, and serve.
Prepare and broil the kidneys as indicated in the preceding ease, and when done and dished up, fill the well of each kidney with a lump of maître-dʼhôtel butter, No. 127 ; pour a very little glaze gravy under them, and serve hot.
These are easily obtained ready cleaned and parboiled, from all tripe-shops throughout the country : they should be put on to boil in water with carrot, onion, celery, garnished bouquet, salt, lemon, or a little vinegar, six cloves, and a few peppercorns. They require about two hours' very gentle boiling to cook them thoroughly ; and when done, should be split, freed from all unnecessary bones, and especially of the hoot and a dingy-looking curled substance of a very offensive character, which is found situated between the separation of the hoof : dish up the feet neatly, and pour some Poulette sauce, N o. 36, over them, and serve.
Cut the liver in slices about a quarter of an inch thick, and cut also some streaky bacon into small thin slices, or, as they are familiarly termed, rashers; fry the bacon first, and drain it on a plate; next, after having floured the pieces of liver, fry these also in the fat from the bacon, and when browned on both sides. dish up the liver and bacon in a circular row, placing a piece of each alternately : drain off the fat from the pan in which the liver has been fried; shake in a little flour: add a wineglassful of catsup, a little pepper and salt, and half a gill of stock or water; stir altogether over the fire, until the sauce boils, and pour it over the dished-up liver and bacon.
Note.—A few sliced gherkins, mushrooms, pickled walnuts, or even mixed pickles, may be added to the sauce.
Cut up about six ounces of bacon into long square strippets or lardons, and insert these at equal distances in the interior part of the liver; fry it whole in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a clove of garlic. thyme, bay-leaf and parsley—tied together, an onion stuck with eight cloves, and a bit of mace; and when the liver is equally browned all over, add carrots, turnips, and onions, neatly turned of equal size, a glass of brandy, and stock or water, barely enough to cover the whole; allow this to simmer very gently for about two hours, taking care to baste the liver frequently with its own liquor. When done, place the liver on its dish, garnished round with the vegetables ; strain the stock, remove the grease, add a glass of wine and a little Harvey, boil it down to the quantity needed to sauce the liver, pour it over, and serve.
Cut about a pound of veal cutlet into thin collops or slices, about two inches in diameter ; season them with chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt ; dip each piece in beaten egg, crumb them over with bread-crumbs, and fry them with a little clarified butter in a sautapan, of a very light-brown colour; dish them up, placing alternately a veal collop and a small thin piece of fried bacon ; pour some piquante sauce over them, and serve.
Note.—If more convenient, the same sauce as indicated in No. 561, may be used.
Cut up a pound or more of veal cutlets into oval, oblong, or heart-shaped cutlets, about a quarter of an inch thick; season with pepper and salt, fry them brown on both sides, and dish them up—alternately with small thin slices of fried ham, or bacon; drain off half the butter from the pan, shake in a tablespoonful of flour, some mushroom catsup, and a handful of mushrooms; moisten with a gill of stock or water; boil all together for five minutes; pour the sauce over the outlets, and serve.
Minced veal is most appropriately served when it happens that some portion of a previously-dressed joint is left ; in which case all the meat should be cut from the bones, minced into very small thin shreds, and set apart in a stewpan ; the bones are to be broken up, and put in a stewpan with an onion, carrot, celery, half a bay-leaf, thyme, parsley, two cloves, a few peppercorns, a little salt, and about a quart of water; set this to boil gently for an hour, and when done, strain it, and having removed all grease, make it into white sauce,—see No. 15 ; and having stirred the sauce over the fare until reduced to the quantity required for your purpose, strain one half into a small stewpan, and add the remainder to the minced veal ; season with nutmeg, grated lemon peel, pepper and salt ; make it hot ; pile it up in the centre of the dish ; garnish it round with poached eggs, and very small pieces of rolled thin bacon fried; pour the other half of the sauce over the minced veal and round the base of the entrée, and serve.
The two lobes of the brains should be separated with a knife, and after being soaked in cold water for a while, the caul or skin which envelops them must be gently removed with the fingers ; and, after remaining in fresh water a little longer, they should be slowly boiled in half a pint of water seasoned with a spoonful of vinegar, a little sliced onion, carrot, bay-leaf, thyme, pepper and salt : and when the brains are done, they should be drained, cut in thick collops, and dished up like cutlets, sauced over with ravigotte, No. 34, and garnished round with potato croquets.
Prepare and dish up the brains as indicated in the preceding case; pour some nut-brown butter, No. 54, over them; garnish the centre with fried parsley, and serve.
The brains are to be prepared in the first instance as shown in No. 566, and when cold, are to be cut into slices—lengthwise—of about a quarter of an inch in thickness ; these must be dipped in frying batter No. 288, fried in sufficient very hot lard, or other frying fat—to make them swim : turn them lightly over the whole time they are being fried, in order that they may be equally browned all over ; and when done, and crisp, drain and dish them up on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve one of the following sauces separately in a sauce-boat: viz.,—tomata, piquante, poor-manʼs, ravigotte, Robert, &c.
The brains, after being cleansed, boiled, and cut into small collops, must be added to some well-seasoned Allemande, Béchamel, ravigotte, or maître-d’hôtel sauce—previously made hot ; mix them gently in this, and with the preparation fill some paper cases, No. 325 ; strew fried bread-crumbs upon the tops ; push in the oven for a few minutes ; dish up the cases on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve hot.
Note.—Ham, tongue, truffle, mushrooms, or any kind of pickles may be added in small quantities.
Split and bone a couple of calf’s feet, and parboil them in water for ten minutes; they are then to be placed in a stew pan with half a pound of raw ham or gammon of bacon, and a pound of knuckle of veal, two carrots cut in equal shapes and sizes, six or eight onions, four cloves, a garnished faggot of parsley, a wineglass of mushroom catsup, pepper and salt ; moisten with a quart of broth or water; put the lid on, and set the feet, &c., to stew very slowly indeed by the side of the fire for about two hours and a half, taking care to turn the meat, &c., over occasionally, in order that the whole may become gradually glazed all over alike : care must be taken while the feet, &c., are stewing, that by the time they are done, the stock or liquor should be allowed gradually to boil down to the quantity required for saucing the dish ; and when all is done quite soft and tender, dish up the whole of the meats with the vegetables round them; pour the gravy over all, and serve.
As a general rule, calf's feet are first boiled in water without any addition, for the purpose of extracting their gelatine for making jellies ; but, even then, provide the feet are not too much done, as to become worthless, they should be drained on a dish, seasoned with a little vinegar, chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt, and after being allowed time to become fully impregnated with this seasoning, should be made hot with a good bit of glaze and a couple of Indian gherkins sliced up.
Note—Calfʻs feet prepared as above may also be warmed in some Poulette, fine-herbs, tomato, piquante, or ravigotte ease.
When the feet have been boiled, seasoned as in No. 571, and are cold, cut them in pieces the size of a small cutlet; dip each piece in batter, No. 288 ; fly them in hot fat, and when become crisp, let them be drained on a cloth, dished up on a napkin with or without fried parley, and some tomata, piquante, or ravigotte sauce, served separately.
See Sheep's; Head, No. 423.
Lamb's fry consists of the heart, liver, melt, brains, kidneys, the fill, breads, and other delicacies; these should be cut in slices, seasoned with pepper and salt, floured ever, and fried crisp; and when browned on both sides, should be dished up with fried parsley, and served with good gravy or any sharp sauce.
Lamb’s feet are always easily obtained ready scalded and boned from the butcher or the tripe-shop. They should be put in a stewpan with an onion stuck with flour cloves, a sliced carrot, garnished faggot of parsley, peppercorns, enough salt to season, the pulp of a lemon, four ounces of chopped suet, and sufficient water to let hem swim; put the lid on, and boil them very gently until done—this will take about an hour. When about to dish up, the feet must be drained on a cloth, all the large bones removed, and a black curled noisome substance taken out from between the hoofs ; this done, place the feet neatly piled in their dish; pour some Poulette sauce with mushrooms, No. 36, over them; garnish with potato croquets, and serve.
Lamb chops are best when out with a slice of the kidney and its fat left adhering to the chop; they should be seasoned with pepper and salt, dipped in clarified butter, well crumbed over with fresh bread crumbs, and carefully broiled of a light-golden brown on both sides, and served with fried parsley and tomata sauce.
Trim a neck of lamb as demonstrated in No. 555, and prepare the cutlets in exactly the same manner. When done, glaze them over, and having dished them up in a circular row, fill the centre with cucumber garnish, No. 109, pour some of the sauce round the base of the cutlets; and serve.
Trim the outlets, season with pepper and salt, dip them in beaten egg and crumb them over, and pat the crumbs on closely ; dip each cutlet in some clarified butter, crumb them again, and pat them into shape with the blade of a knife; broil the cutlets over a clear fire, of a light colour, and when done, and glazed over,—dished up, and sauced round with some Robert sauce, No. 35, send to table.
Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for a couple of hours to draw all the blood out, and by this means render them more delicate and white; parboil them in water for five minutes, immerse them in cold water to cool them, and trim away all extraneous parts in the form of sinew and skin : next, dip a paste-brush in two raw yolks of eggs, and having rubbed the sweetbreads all over with the egg, and rolled them in fine bread-crumbs, you then sprinkle them over with clarified butter, and bread-crumb them again, and place them in a sautapan containing about two ounces of dissolved butter, and set them in a sharp oven to bake for about half an hour, basting them frequently with the butter from the pan. When they are done of a light-golden brown, dish them up with plain gravy (if for a delicate, or convalescent person), or else garnish them with any kind of dressed vegetables; and they may be sauced with any kind of white sauce.
First soak and parboil the sweetbreads as directed in the foregoing case, and when cold, cut them in thin slices lengthwise ; trim them neatly into shape without waste ; season the cutlets thus produced with pepper and salt ; brush them over with raw yolks of eggs ; bread-crumb them, and after dipping each in clarified butter, crumb them over again; pat them into shape ; fry them on both sides with clarified butter in a sautapan, and when done, glazed, and dished up, garnish the centre with any kind of dressed vegetable ; pour some Allemande, Béchamel, or gravy round the base, and serve.
These are cut from that part of a rump or sirloin of beef which is called the fillet—better known to most English people by the apellation of "the under-cut from a sirloin ;"—for this purpose procure about a pound and a half of filet of beef ; pare if all sinew and excess of fat; cut the fillet in slices about half an inch thick, and season them on a plate, with a little oil, pepper and salt; broil on both sides—a little under-done; dish them up with maître-d’hôtel butter, No. 127, under them; garnish round with fried potatoes ; glaze the beefsteaks, and serve before the butter is melted
In this case the fillet, when trimmed, should be cut in slices an inch thick, seasoned with oil, pepper and salt, grilled with their gravy pouring from them when dished up, garnished with mushrooms au gratin, No. 676, and périgueux sauce poured over them.
Prepare the fillet steaks—and broil them as directed in No. 581, and when dished up, place anchovy butter, No. 128, under them; fried potatoes in the centre; glaze the steaks, and serve.
Prepare the fillet steaks as shown in No. 582; dish them up with epicurean butter, No. 130, under them; pour truffle sauce, No. 65, over them; garnish round with oval slices of potatoes fried, and serve.
These are prepared as in No. 581 ; and previously to dishing them up, some Soubise sauce, No. 58, should be piled in the centre of the dish; and the grilled fillets of beef being neatly placed round this, pour a little half glaze round the dish, and serve.
Note.—Fillets of beef, or steak-fillets, prepared as directed in No. 581, may also be served with all kinds of dressed vegetables as a garnish ; or with any of the under-named sauces; viz., tomata, piquante, Provençale, oyster, Lyonnaise. mushroom, &c.
Thee half of a calfʼs head is generally considered enough for any ordinary purpose : this should be first soaked in cold water for an hour or so, parboiled in water with salt for twenty minutes, and then placed in with an onion stuck with six cloves, carrot, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, a bit of mace, and a good tablespoonful of salt, a little chopped suet and the pulp of a lemon; moisten with enough water to let the calf's head swim, and set the whole to boil gently for about an hour and a half; and when done, place the head on its dish, cut the tongue in collops, and place these at one end, the brains (having been prepared as in No. 566) at the other end, and some small rashers of fried bacon in the flanks of the dish; pour some parsley sauce, No. 48, over the calf’s head, and serve.
The calf’s head for hashing must be prepared in the first instance as directed in the foregoing case; or, it may happen, the remains of a calf’s head dressed for a previous dayʼs dinner, will do equally as well for hashing. In either case, the head must be cut in neatly trimmed pieces, about the size and form of a five-shilling piece and placed in a stewpan. Next, chop six shallots and put this in a stew pan with a tablespoonful of Crosse Blackwellʼs Indian Chutnee, and a wineglassful of vinegar ; boil this down to half its original quantity; then add a pint of the stock in which the calf's head has been boiled, two ounces of glaze, and an ounce of butter kneaded with an ounce and a half of flour ; stir this sauce over the fire to boil for a quarter of an hour, and then strain it to the pieces of calf's head ; add a little browning to give it a rich colour; simmer all together for ten minutes ; pile up the pieces of calfʼs head in the centre of the dish ; garnish round with fried eggs and Indian gherkins; pour the sauce over the whole, and serve.
Boil half a calfs head as shown in No. 586; and when done, take it out of its stock, and set it in a cool place to become half cold. Next, place the head on a greased baking-dish; rub two yolks of raw eggs all over the surface; sprinkle thickly some fried bread-crumbs, No. 296; upon this pour a little of the stock on the dish to keep the head moist; sprinkle an ounce of dissolved butter over the crumbing ; push the dish containing the head in the oven to bake for about twenty minutes, and when quite hot, place it on its dish ; garnish it with the tongue, brains, and small slices of fried bacon ; sauce round with piquante sauce, No. 22, and serve.
Bone the calf’s head, and after it has been parboiled in water with salt for twenty minutes, and has cooled, cut it up into pieces about two inches in diameter, or square; trim these neatly, and boil them with the same vegetables, &c., as recommended in No. 586 ; and when done, dish up the head as follows: viz.,—skin, trim, and split the tongue, and lay it flat in the centre of the dish : at each end of this place the ears (previously scraped and curled) ; set the brains on the tongue, and dress the pieces of head in close rows all round; pour a Financière ragout, No. 104, over the dish, and serve.
Let the calf’s head be prepared as in the foregoing case, with this difference, that a bunch of turtle herbs, consisting of basil, marjoram, lemon-thyme, and a little pennyroyal, together with six shallots, should be added. The stock may be used, with the addition of some glaze and madeira to make the sauce, as directed in No. 12, and when finished, should be strained into a bain-marie stewpan (see Adams’ Illustrations).
When about to send to table, dish up the calf’s head, as shown in the preceding number, garnish with decorated quenelles, mushrooms, and crayfish; pour the sauce over all, and serve.
Divide the ox-tail at the joints, which are indicated by a semi-transparent spot on the sinews which connect the joints ; parboil them in water for ten minutes, and trim away all asperities, so as to give the pieces a smooth, rounded appearance ; put them in a stewpan with carrot, celery, faggot of parsley, an onion stuck with six cloves, a bit of mace, a dozen peppercorns, a spoonful of salt, and two quarts of water; boil very gently for two hours, and when the pieces are become quite tender, take them up on a dish, and set them aside. Strain the stock into a stewpan, remove all grease from its surface, stir in four ounces of brown thickening, No. 9; add about half a pound of shaped carrots, the same of turnips, and eight middle-sized onions; season with pepper and salt; allow the whole to boil very gently until the vegetables are done, and then remove them carefully into a stewpan already containing the pieces of ox-tail; skim the sauce; boil it down if too thin; add a lump of sugar; strain it to the ox-tail, &c. ; allow the haricot to simmer for ten minutes over the fire, and serve neatly in its dish.
Stew the ox-tail as directed in No. 591, and when done, remove the pieces into a clean stewpan ; strain their stock, free it from grease, and boil it down to thin glaze : add this to the pieces of tail.
When about to send to table, warm the ox-tail in its glaze ; arrange the pieces in a circle on the dish ; garnish the centre with stewed peas, No. 690; pour the glaze around the base of the ox-tail, and serve.
Note.—Ox-tails prepared as above, may also be served with dressed spinach, Jardinière, Macédoine, or any other kind of dressed vegetable.
First braize the ox-tail ; and when done, and cold, trim the pieces neatly ; season them with chopped parsley and shalot, pepper and salt; egg and bread-crumb them, and after having sprinkled each piece with clarified butter, bread crumb them again ; place the pieces of ox-tail on a sautapan containing an ounce of butter ; push in the oven for about twenty minutes to bake them of a light-golden brown, and when done, dish them up with shalot gravy, No. 64.
Note.—Ox-tails, prepared as above, may also be served with Tartar sauce, No. 38.
A breast of mutton intended for braizing should be first neatly and securely tied with string, like a large paper parcel when it is corded several times across : this operation is needed to prevent the breast from falling to pieces when done, and while it is being taken up, which, from the necessity of its over-brazing, in order render it mellow, would be the case. The breast of mutton being thus corded, let it be braized in some stock garnished with a small complement of vegetables, &c.; and when done quite tender, take it up by the string carefully on to a dish; pull out all the bones, place another dish on the breast to press it smooth without smashing it ; and as soon as cold, cut it into oblong, square, or heart-shaped cutlets : all excess of fat should be pared away ; the outlets should be very lightly scored in diamond tracing, seasoned with pepper and salt, dipped in dissolved butter, and well crumbed over; the crumbing being closely patted on each breast-cutlet with a knife. When about to send to table, grill the cutlets on both sides of a light colour; dish up, and sauced round with piquante, tomata, Italian, or any other kind of sauce best suited to your taste or convenience.
Cut up about four pounds of either neck or loin of mutton into eight or ten neatly trimmed chops, paring away all excess of fat and rough bone ; season plentifully with pepper, and moderately with salt ; place the chops in a deep stewpan or sautapan, with sufficient water to cover in their surface, add eight good sized onions, put the lid on and set the whole on the fire to stew gently for half an hour ; the stew must then be removed from the fire, the liquor poured into a basin, and after being freed from all grease, is to be poured back to the chops ; add a dozen peeled potatoes, and a pint of good stock or gravy, if handy, or failing that, (in case that the moisture has been reduced to half its original quantity) a like quantity of water will do. The whole is then to be placed on the fire to boil gently for about three quarters in hour, due care being taken that the moisture does not become wholly absorbed by the stew, or burnt at the bottom of the stewpan, as this latter accident would entirely spoil the dish. As soon as the Irish stew is done, let it be dished up as follows, viz,: first remove the potatoes carefully on to a plate, and then use a fork and spoon to place the cutlets or chops neatly round the dish, add the potatoes in their centre, and pour the gravy and onions, &c., over the whole, and serve hot.
Note.—A less expensive method of making Irish stew, is to use the scrag end of a neck of mutton, or indeed any inferior pieces of meat most convenient, as well as the remains of a cooked joint of beef, mutton, or veal.