Francatelli Recipes for Pastry Entrees, Chapter 12
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Francatelli Recipes for Pastry Entrees — This page gives you the entire contents of the Twelfth Chapter: Entrees or First Course Side Dishes of Pastry, &c. from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
CHAPTER XII.
No. 518.—VOL-AU·VENT A LA FINANCIERE.
For this purpose one pound of puff-paste will be re queried ; and, when mixing it, the juice of a whole lemon must be added. The paste, see No. 323 must be kept perfectly square at the ends, and folded with great correctness, in order to insure the vol-au-vent rising straight and evenly all round, which cannot be expected if the puff-paste is rolled unevenly ; five turns and a half must be given to the paste, allowing five minutes to intervene between each turn—observing that, previously to folding up the last turn and a half the paste must be brushed over with lemon·juice. Attention must be paid while giving the last turn and a half, to keep the form of it to the size of the intended vol-au·vent, in order to give it all the thickness it requires. About two ounces of common paste, after being rolled out to the size of a plate, should be stuck on the upper surface of the paste, turned upside down on a wetted baking-sheet, and set on the ice for fvie minutes ; and at the expiration of this time, for the purpose of guiding the hand, a stewpan lid, or anyother circular flat, should be placed on the paste, and then with a sharp-pointed knife proceed to cut all round the extreme edge of the lid of the stewpan, casing the point of the knife to bear under the lid to the extent of the sixteenth of an inch. When the vol-au-vent is cut out, egg it over without touching the sides, and with the point of a knife, the point held on a slant inwardly to centre, make a slanting circular incision within an inch of the edge, and with the point of a knife press the disk away from the incision to prevent them from closing up again. The vol·au-vent should now be put in the oven (not too hot, as excess of heat, by too precipitately the edges, prevents it from rising); as soon as it begins to rise, let a trivet be quickly slipped under it, and the oven be closed. When the vol-au-vent has risen about two inches, and before it has acquired any colour, protect it from too much heat, by placing the hoop of an old sieve round it, and a piece of paper over it; and allow it to remain in the oven until done : this will take about three-quarters of an hour; it must then be removed, and the greasy centre carefully taken out without damaging the case.
When about to send to table, make the case hot ; place it on its dish ; garnish with a Financière ragout, No 104. 'The top may be finished by placing a larded sweetbread surrounded by decorated quenelles, or truffles and crayfish, as represented in the woodcut ; or the vol-au-vent may be served in a plainer style.
No. 519.—PATE CHAUD OF PIGEONS.
Make one and a half pound of paste, No. 755; take two-thirds of this; mould it into a ball; roll it out to the size and form of a dinner-plate; and with the bent knuckles of the right hand, indent the centre part to the extent of four inches in diameter, and with the fingers of both hands raise the sides of the paste up in a purse-like form, giving the wall consistency by pressing the sides of the paste together compactly, and by working the paste in this manner, raise the wall to the height of about eight inches ; place this shell on a buttered baking-sheet upon buttered paper ; with the thumb press out the base slantingly; fill the inside with flour or bran ; wet round the inner edge ; fasten on a circular piece of the same paste, press it all round securely, cut the edge evenly, pinch it decoratively with pastry-pincers (see Adamsʼ Illustrations); egg it over ; decorate it as shown in the woodcut ; bake it for three-quarters of an hour, of a light colour. When done make an incision all round the inner edge of the upper part, remove the lid and the bran ; brush the inside clean, and reserve the pie·shell for use.
When about to send the pâté chaud to table, make it hot ; garnish with very young pigeons which have been previously boned, forced, and raised for the purpose ; add truffles, button mushrooms, and cocks’ combs arranged as represented in the woodcut ; pour some poivrade sauce, No. 19, over all, and serve.
No. 520.—TIMBALE OF MACARONI.
A timbale case or shell is thus made: viz.,—make a pound of short paste, No. 756, and two ounces of nouilles paste, No. 759. Butter slightly and smoothly the inside of a plain round or oval mould; roll out the nouilles paste as thin as paper, and with fancy tin cutters stamp out leaves, lozenges, crescents, rings, &c., with which to form ornamental designs, which are to be angled and stuck on the bottom and sides of the interior of the mould, as shown in the woodcut. The decoration is then to be carefully moistened by applying the tip of a brush dipped in water to it, and is afterwards to be lined throughout with some of the short-paste rolled out for the purpose, leaving the paste rising an inch above the edge of the mould. Fill the inside with bran, or with flour mixed with two ounces of chopped suet; wet the edge, place a circular piece rolled-out paste on the timbale ; press both edges together with finger and thumb ; twist the upper ridge of the paste inwardly with a twirl of the fingers and thumb ; make a small hole in the centre for ventilation ; bake the timbale for about three-quarters of an hour, and when done, empty it with care; brush it out clean, and fill it with a Milanese ragout, No. 126 ; turn it out on its dish, glaze it over with thin light-coloured glaze ; pour some white sauce round the base, and serve.
No. 521.—BORDER OF RICE A LA REINE.
Wash thoroughly and drain a pound of Carolina rice, and put it in a stewpan with nearly thee pints of water, two ounces of butter, and a little salt ; put the lid on, and set the rice to simmer very slowly on a smothered fire for about an hour and a half ; by which time, if properly attended to, the rice will have absorbed the whole of the moisture, and will have become perfectly soft when a grain is pressed between the finger and thumb : the rice must now be handled with the back part of the bowl of a large wooden spoon, and by this means worked into a smooth compact paste; and after dipping your washed hands in cold water, it is to be rolled in a ball, gently pressed on a buttered baking sheet and finally shaped, by using a thick chisel-shaped wedge or tool (made with raw carrot), often dipped in water to prevent its sticking in the rice ; the border, when finished, should resemble the woodcut. About an hour before dinner-time the border of rice should be baked in a brisk oven, of a light-golden colour. When done, and when the rice from its centre is removed neatly and smoothly, it may be filled either with purée or mince of fowl or of game, and finished by placing a border of soft-boiled eggs, or plovers’ eggs, round the edge, and a small decorated fillet in between each egg, as represented n the woodcut. Pour a little white sauce over the purée, and round the base, and serve.
No. 522.—MAZARINE OF SALMON.
Make about a pound and a half of salmon into forcemeat,. No. 186, using less panada, and making up the deficiency with a gill of stiff Allemande sauce, No. 17. Slightly butter the inside of a very clean quartr-size jelly mould, and fill it carefully with the salmon forcemeat ; smooth the top over with a knife dipped in hot water, and about an hour and a half before dinner-time, set the Mazarine to steam as you would a pudding; and when done, turn it out on its dish ; garish with picked prawns, decorated quenelles, button mushrooms, &c., or, for economy sake, when turned out, it may be sauced with Cardinal ragout only, N o. 62.
No. 523.—CHARTREUSE OF PARTRIDGES.
Boil four red carrots, as many turnips, these not over-done, and have also ready some plain-boiled passed* and dry-pressed spinach : line a plain round, or oval mould with buttered paper ; cut out the carrots, turnips, and the pressed spinach in appropriate fancy ornamental shapes, calculated when put together to form the intended design on the bottom and sides of the mould, as represented in the woodcut. Fit in a wall composed of pressed braized cabbage, and fill the centre left hollow for the purpose with members of the partridge which which has been braised with the cabbage, and a very little salmis sauce ; steam the chartreuse to make it hot, turn it out on its dish, pour some salmis sauce round the base, and serve.
Note.Passed through a sieve.For the preparation of the partridge see Braied Pheasants, N o.482.
*Passed through a sieve.
No. 524.—CROUSTADE OF LARKS.
Take a square-shaped stale quartern-loaf, and use a sharp knife to carve it in the shape of the crôustade represented in the annexed woodcut ; and when ignited, stick a fork in the centre of it, and plunge it gently and entirely in some very hot lard, and fry it of a bright fawn colour; stick it on the centre of its dish, with a little white of egg and flour mixed into a paste, and set it aside until dinner-time. Bone eighteen larks, and stuff each with a little forcemeat and a small truffle, cut off the legs, and give them the form of round-balls; place them in rows with clarified butter in a sautapan; season with pepper and salt, cover them with a circular piece of buttered paper, and push them in a rather hot oven for a quarter of an hour, which will suicide to cook them. When about to send to table, make the crôustade hot by placing it for five minutes in the oven, drain the prepared larks, and pile them neatly in the emptied croustade; garnish with button mushrooms and cray fish; pour some périgueux sauce over and round it, and serve.
Note.—Any small birds prepared as indicated above may be used for the purpose, and the garnish may be varied with quenelles, cocks' combs, olives, &c.
No. 525.—TOURTE OF GODIVEAU.
Make a tourte shell or crust in manner following viz.,—first, make half a pound of puff-paste, and give it four turns in the usual manner ; make also half a pound of short-paste ; take half of this ; knead it into a round ball ; roll it to the size of a dinner-plate; ·put it on a round baking-sheet, and place a tampion of soft paper rolled in the form of a bun in the centre. The pull-paste must then be rolled out to the length of twenty inches, lightly wetted over with a paste-brush dipped in water, and folded lengthwise in three ; this must be rolled again in its width, just sufficient to make it about four inches wide ; the paste being again wetted, must now be again folded in three as before : by this time, it should form a band measuring twenty inches long, and two inches wide, and half an inch thick. The edges of the band of paste must now be pared away, with a small sharp knife held perpendicularly in the right hand, whilst the paste must be slightly pressed on the slab with the fore part of the fingers. Next, add the trimmings of the puff-paste to the remaining half of the short-paste ; knead both together ; roll this out to the size of a dinner-plate, and, after having first wetted round the edge of the foundation, place it over the tampion and press it down all round with the thumb ; wet the edge of the tourte round again and apply the band in the following manner: viz.,—take hold of the band at both endss, and begin by fastening that held in the right hand round the tourte, and continue fixing the band all round the edge as fast as it is dropped in its place from the hand ; press the first end down so as to thin it ; wet this part with the brush, and after paring away a little from the other end, so as to thin that also, fasten both together so as to join them. Press the band down all round with the thumb, and flute it round the edge by jagging it slightly with the back of a knife.
The tourte must now be egged over with a paste brush, so as to carefully avoid smearing the edges of the band. Place it in a moderately-heated oven, and bake it of a light colour; and when done, withdraw it; make an incision all round the inside of the band; lift off the cover; remove the tampion of paper ; place the tourte on its dish; garnish with a ragoût composed of brains, sweetbread, quenelles of godiveau, mushrooms, and truffles, and crayfish on the top; sauce with poivrade or Financière, and serve.
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
Francatelli's Chapter XII: Entrees or First Course Side Dishes of Pastry, &c.
CHAPTER XII.
ENTREES, OR FIRST COURSE SIDE DISHES OF PASTRY, &c.
For this purpose one pound of puff-paste will be re queried ; and, when mixing it, the juice of a whole lemon must be added. The paste, see No. 323 must be kept perfectly square at the ends, and folded with great correctness, in order to insure the vol-au-vent rising straight and evenly all round, which cannot be expected if the puff-paste is rolled unevenly ; five turns and a half must be given to the paste, allowing five minutes to intervene between each turn—observing that, previously to folding up the last turn and a half the paste must be brushed over with lemon·juice. Attention must be paid while giving the last turn and a half, to keep the form of it to the size of the intended vol-au·vent, in order to give it all the thickness it requires. About two ounces of common paste, after being rolled out to the size of a plate, should be stuck on the upper surface of the paste, turned upside down on a wetted baking-sheet, and set on the ice for fvie minutes ; and at the expiration of this time, for the purpose of guiding the hand, a stewpan lid, or anyother circular flat, should be placed on the paste, and then with a sharp-pointed knife proceed to cut all round the extreme edge of the lid of the stewpan, casing the point of the knife to bear under the lid to the extent of the sixteenth of an inch. When the vol-au-vent is cut out, egg it over without touching the sides, and with the point of a knife, the point held on a slant inwardly to centre, make a slanting circular incision within an inch of the edge, and with the point of a knife press the disk away from the incision to prevent them from closing up again. The vol·au-vent should now be put in the oven (not too hot, as excess of heat, by too precipitately the edges, prevents it from rising); as soon as it begins to rise, let a trivet be quickly slipped under it, and the oven be closed. When the vol-au-vent has risen about two inches, and before it has acquired any colour, protect it from too much heat, by placing the hoop of an old sieve round it, and a piece of paper over it; and allow it to remain in the oven until done : this will take about three-quarters of an hour; it must then be removed, and the greasy centre carefully taken out without damaging the case.
When about to send to table, make the case hot ; place it on its dish ; garnish with a Financière ragout, No 104. 'The top may be finished by placing a larded sweetbread surrounded by decorated quenelles, or truffles and crayfish, as represented in the woodcut ; or the vol-au-vent may be served in a plainer style.
Make one and a half pound of paste, No. 755; take two-thirds of this; mould it into a ball; roll it out to the size and form of a dinner-plate; and with the bent knuckles of the right hand, indent the centre part to the extent of four inches in diameter, and with the fingers of both hands raise the sides of the paste up in a purse-like form, giving the wall consistency by pressing the sides of the paste together compactly, and by working the paste in this manner, raise the wall to the height of about eight inches ; place this shell on a buttered baking-sheet upon buttered paper ; with the thumb press out the base slantingly; fill the inside with flour or bran ; wet round the inner edge ; fasten on a circular piece of the same paste, press it all round securely, cut the edge evenly, pinch it decoratively with pastry-pincers (see Adamsʼ Illustrations); egg it over ; decorate it as shown in the woodcut ; bake it for three-quarters of an hour, of a light colour. When done make an incision all round the inner edge of the upper part, remove the lid and the bran ; brush the inside clean, and reserve the pie·shell for use.
When about to send the pâté chaud to table, make it hot ; garnish with very young pigeons which have been previously boned, forced, and raised for the purpose ; add truffles, button mushrooms, and cocks’ combs arranged as represented in the woodcut ; pour some poivrade sauce, No. 19, over all, and serve.
A timbale case or shell is thus made: viz.,—make a pound of short paste, No. 756, and two ounces of nouilles paste, No. 759. Butter slightly and smoothly the inside of a plain round or oval mould; roll out the nouilles paste as thin as paper, and with fancy tin cutters stamp out leaves, lozenges, crescents, rings, &c., with which to form ornamental designs, which are to be angled and stuck on the bottom and sides of the interior of the mould, as shown in the woodcut. The decoration is then to be carefully moistened by applying the tip of a brush dipped in water to it, and is afterwards to be lined throughout with some of the short-paste rolled out for the purpose, leaving the paste rising an inch above the edge of the mould. Fill the inside with bran, or with flour mixed with two ounces of chopped suet; wet the edge, place a circular piece rolled-out paste on the timbale ; press both edges together with finger and thumb ; twist the upper ridge of the paste inwardly with a twirl of the fingers and thumb ; make a small hole in the centre for ventilation ; bake the timbale for about three-quarters of an hour, and when done, empty it with care; brush it out clean, and fill it with a Milanese ragout, No. 126 ; turn it out on its dish, glaze it over with thin light-coloured glaze ; pour some white sauce round the base, and serve.
Wash thoroughly and drain a pound of Carolina rice, and put it in a stewpan with nearly thee pints of water, two ounces of butter, and a little salt ; put the lid on, and set the rice to simmer very slowly on a smothered fire for about an hour and a half ; by which time, if properly attended to, the rice will have absorbed the whole of the moisture, and will have become perfectly soft when a grain is pressed between the finger and thumb : the rice must now be handled with the back part of the bowl of a large wooden spoon, and by this means worked into a smooth compact paste; and after dipping your washed hands in cold water, it is to be rolled in a ball, gently pressed on a buttered baking sheet and finally shaped, by using a thick chisel-shaped wedge or tool (made with raw carrot), often dipped in water to prevent its sticking in the rice ; the border, when finished, should resemble the woodcut. About an hour before dinner-time the border of rice should be baked in a brisk oven, of a light-golden colour. When done, and when the rice from its centre is removed neatly and smoothly, it may be filled either with purée or mince of fowl or of game, and finished by placing a border of soft-boiled eggs, or plovers’ eggs, round the edge, and a small decorated fillet in between each egg, as represented n the woodcut. Pour a little white sauce over the purée, and round the base, and serve.
Make about a pound and a half of salmon into forcemeat,. No. 186, using less panada, and making up the deficiency with a gill of stiff Allemande sauce, No. 17. Slightly butter the inside of a very clean quartr-size jelly mould, and fill it carefully with the salmon forcemeat ; smooth the top over with a knife dipped in hot water, and about an hour and a half before dinner-time, set the Mazarine to steam as you would a pudding; and when done, turn it out on its dish ; garish with picked prawns, decorated quenelles, button mushrooms, &c., or, for economy sake, when turned out, it may be sauced with Cardinal ragout only, N o. 62.
Boil four red carrots, as many turnips, these not over-done, and have also ready some plain-boiled passed* and dry-pressed spinach : line a plain round, or oval mould with buttered paper ; cut out the carrots, turnips, and the pressed spinach in appropriate fancy ornamental shapes, calculated when put together to form the intended design on the bottom and sides of the mould, as represented in the woodcut. Fit in a wall composed of pressed braized cabbage, and fill the centre left hollow for the purpose with members of the partridge which which has been braised with the cabbage, and a very little salmis sauce ; steam the chartreuse to make it hot, turn it out on its dish, pour some salmis sauce round the base, and serve.
Note.Passed through a sieve.For the preparation of the partridge see Braied Pheasants, N o.482.
Take a square-shaped stale quartern-loaf, and use a sharp knife to carve it in the shape of the crôustade represented in the annexed woodcut ; and when ignited, stick a fork in the centre of it, and plunge it gently and entirely in some very hot lard, and fry it of a bright fawn colour; stick it on the centre of its dish, with a little white of egg and flour mixed into a paste, and set it aside until dinner-time. Bone eighteen larks, and stuff each with a little forcemeat and a small truffle, cut off the legs, and give them the form of round-balls; place them in rows with clarified butter in a sautapan; season with pepper and salt, cover them with a circular piece of buttered paper, and push them in a rather hot oven for a quarter of an hour, which will suicide to cook them. When about to send to table, make the crôustade hot by placing it for five minutes in the oven, drain the prepared larks, and pile them neatly in the emptied croustade; garnish with button mushrooms and cray fish; pour some périgueux sauce over and round it, and serve.
Note.—Any small birds prepared as indicated above may be used for the purpose, and the garnish may be varied with quenelles, cocks' combs, olives, &c.
Make a tourte shell or crust in manner following viz.,—first, make half a pound of puff-paste, and give it four turns in the usual manner ; make also half a pound of short-paste ; take half of this ; knead it into a round ball ; roll it to the size of a dinner-plate; ·put it on a round baking-sheet, and place a tampion of soft paper rolled in the form of a bun in the centre. The pull-paste must then be rolled out to the length of twenty inches, lightly wetted over with a paste-brush dipped in water, and folded lengthwise in three ; this must be rolled again in its width, just sufficient to make it about four inches wide ; the paste being again wetted, must now be again folded in three as before : by this time, it should form a band measuring twenty inches long, and two inches wide, and half an inch thick. The edges of the band of paste must now be pared away, with a small sharp knife held perpendicularly in the right hand, whilst the paste must be slightly pressed on the slab with the fore part of the fingers. Next, add the trimmings of the puff-paste to the remaining half of the short-paste ; knead both together ; roll this out to the size of a dinner-plate, and, after having first wetted round the edge of the foundation, place it over the tampion and press it down all round with the thumb ; wet the edge of the tourte round again and apply the band in the following manner: viz.,—take hold of the band at both endss, and begin by fastening that held in the right hand round the tourte, and continue fixing the band all round the edge as fast as it is dropped in its place from the hand ; press the first end down so as to thin it ; wet this part with the brush, and after paring away a little from the other end, so as to thin that also, fasten both together so as to join them. Press the band down all round with the thumb, and flute it round the edge by jagging it slightly with the back of a knife.
The tourte must now be egged over with a paste brush, so as to carefully avoid smearing the edges of the band. Place it in a moderately-heated oven, and bake it of a light colour; and when done, withdraw it; make an incision all round the inside of the band; lift off the cover; remove the tampion of paper ; place the tourte on its dish; garnish with a ragoût composed of brains, sweetbread, quenelles of godiveau, mushrooms, and truffles, and crayfish on the top; sauce with poivrade or Financière, and serve.