Francatelli Recipes for Soups, Chapter 3
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Francatelli Recipes for Soups — This page gives you the entire contents of the Third Chapter: Soups on General from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
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CHAPTER III.
No. 132.—JULIENNE SOUP.
Take three red carrots, as many turnips, and the white parts of the same number of heads of celery, leeks, and onions; cut all these into thin shreds about an inch long, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little salt and sugar; and stirring lightly over a low fire, fry them of a very light colour; then pour them into a convenient-sized soup-pot, add sufficient clear stock for the quantity of soup requried; set it to boil, and then remove it to the side of the fire to throw up the scum and grease; remove these as they rise to the surface; add two cabbage-lettuces, a few leaves of sorrel, some tarragon and chervil, all shred fine, and four lumps of sugar; and, after allowing the juliènne to simmer until the vegetables are done, ascertain that the seasoning is palatable, and serve.
No. 133.—JARDINIERE SOUP.
Scrape, peel, and clean three carrots, and a little number of turnips; and with small-sized vegetable scoops, proceed to scoop them out into the form of peas, olives, &c., according to fancy or convenience. When this is done, place the said vegetables, with equal quantities of very small button onions, celery, cut the size of carrots, &c., some pulled leaves of lettuce, tarragon, and chervil, in a soup-pot; fill up with clear stock; add a bit of sugar : boil gently until the vegetables are done; taste to ascertain that the flavour is good, and serve hot.
No. 134.—BRUNOISE SOUP.
Clean, and cut up into very minute square pieces the following vegetables: viz., three carrots, and a like number of turnips, heads of celery, leeks, and onions; fry these with a bit of butter and a little sugar, and proceed in every particular in the same manner as indicated for juliènne soup : and when ready to send to table, add a few boiled Brussels sprouts when in season, and some very small round crusts from a French roll.
No. 134A.—SPRING SOUP.
This soup is prepared very much in the same manner as jardinière soup, excepting that, as indeed its very name sufficiently implies, it must be made with early summer vegetables only; and when about to be sent to table, some ready-boiled asparagus-peas and green peas should be added.
No. 135.—CHIFFONADE SOUP.
With a round tin cutter about the size of a florin, stamp out about four good-sized lettuces; and having put these into a soup-pot with the heads of a few spring-onions, a few leaves of tarragon, and some chervil, four leaves of green mint, and a pint of young green peas, fill up with clear consommé, season with a small pinch of mignionette pepper, and a good lump of sugar; boil gently until the peas, &c., are done, and serve.
No. 136.—CELERY AND BUTTON-ONIONS SOUP.
Having cleansed three heads of celery, cut them into inch lengths; boil them in water for five minutes, and when drained, place them in a soup-pot with half a pint of button onions, a little tarragon and chervil, a piece of sugar, a pinch of mignionette pepper; fill up with game stock; boil gently until the celery is thoroughly done, and serve.
No. 137.—D'ESCLIGNAC SOUP.
Break six fresh whole eggs into a basin, add thereto half a pint of cream, a gill of strong stock (game or poultry if possible), a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; beat this up with a fork until well mixed, and strain the mixture into a plain mould which has been previously lightly buttered round the sides and bottom to prevent this savory custard from sticking to the mould, while it is being gently steamed over a slow fire, in a covered stewpan containing a little hot water; and, when the custard has become firm to the touch—which will take about half an hour, allow it to become cold; and after having turned it out upon a plate, cut it into neat square pieces the size of a filbert; place these gently in a soup tureen; add some clear bright game or chicken consommé, and serve. A few asparagus-peas, green peas, or French beans cut small, may be added when in season.
No. 138.—CONSOMME WITH QUENELLES
This is prepared in the same manner as the foregoing, by substituting small teaspoon quenelles for the pieces of custard.
No. 139.—CARLTON-HOUSE SOUP.
To some bright consommé add a dozen small teaspoon quenelles, half the usual quantity of custard for D'Esclignac, No. 137, and some very small rolls the size of cobnuts, made of Spanish puff-paste, and previously baked in an oven. When about to serve this kind of soup, the quenelles and pieces of custard must be placed in the soup-tureen, the consommé poured gently over them, and the rolls above alluded to, placed the last thing on the surface of the soup.
No. 140.—MOCK-TURTLE SOUP, CLEAR
First bone, and then parboil the calf's head in plenty of water, and a small handful of salt, for about twenty minutes; and when the calf's head has become sufficiently cold, by steeping in cold water, proceed to trim away the rough parts, particularly the cuticle about the mouth. Having done this, next place the head in a large stewpan, with a good-sized knuckle of veal, about a pound of raw ham, two carrots, two onions—one stuck with twelve cloves—a head of celery, a bunch of basil, marjoram, lemon thyme, a sprig of common thyme, some parsley, winter savory, and spring onions, and two blades of mace; add a quart of good stock, set the stewpan over the fire to boil sharply until the liquid is reduced to a glaze—due care being given to this part of the process to prevent the soup becoming burnt. Next, fill up the stewpan either with stock or water; and when it boils again, skim it carefully, keeping it gently boiling by the side of the fire, until the calf's head is nearly done. The head must now be carefully lifted out of the stock with a skimmer, and after being washed in a large pan of cold water, and well drained upon a sieve or cloth, placed in a press, between two large dishes, in the larder to become cold. The calf's-head stock must now be strained through a sieve into a clean stewpan; the grease entirely removed from its surface, and then clarified by mixing into it three whites of eggs previously whipped with a pint of cold water; set the stock on the fire, and whisk it until it boils, and then lift it to the side of the stove, there to boil gently until it has become bright; this will take about twenty minutes. The stock must now be strained through a napkin into a soup-pot; the calf's head cut into pieces an inch square, and being placed in the mock-turtle stock, add half a pint of madeira, a pinch of cayenne, and allow the soup to boil gently by the side of the fire until the pieces of meat are thoroughly done. When about to send to the table, add some very small forcemeat quenelles, and a little lemon-juice.
Note.—Forcemeat, for the quenelles here alluded to, is prepared as follows: viz.,—to half a pound of lean veal, pounded and rubbed through a sieve, add two ounces of panda, No. 184, six hard yolks of eggs, an ounce of butter, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and three or four yolks of raw eggs; pound all this in a mortar, rub it through a wire sieve, and then, having rolled this preparation out (with some flour shaked over the table) into the form of toy-marbles, throw these into some water kept ready boiling in a stewpan for the purpose; they will be done in six minutes; after being drained, put them into the mock-turtle.
No. 140A.—MOCK-TURTLE
Prepare this in the first instance in the same manner as directed in the foregoing recipe for mock-turtle clear; and, when the heat is done, and placed in press, and the stock has been passed or strained into another stewpan, add about a pound and a quarter of thickening, No. 9, and stir it over the fire until the sauce boils; remove it to the side to remain gently simmering, in order to enable it to throw up all grease, &c., which remove, and then add half a pint of madeira or sherry, the juice of half a lemon, and a pinch of cayenne; put the pieces of the calf's head (cut into small squares) into a soup-pot, strain the sauce to these, and having allowed the soup to boil gently until the meat is done, skim it, and then add the small quenelles, as in the former case.
No. 141.—GIBLET SOUP, CLEAR
Take two sets of geese giblets thoroughly cleansed, and parboiled in hot water over the fire for ten minutes; drain, and immerse them in cold water for five minutes; and then place them in a stewpan with a bunch of basil, marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, and parsley, tied neatly together; carrot, celery, two onions stuck with a dozen cloves, two blades of mace, and six shalots; fill up with about a gallon of good stock, or water (in the latter case, add four pounds of knuckle of veal) : set the giblets thus far prepared to boil over the fire; skim them well, and allow them to boil very gently by the side of the fire, until they are nearly done; then strain off the stock, wash the giblets in cold water, drain and cut them up,—the wings and feet into inch and half lengths, and the livers, &c., into smaller pieces. Next, after the giblet stock has been strained into another stewpan, and freed from all grease, proceed to clarify it as directed for clear mock-turtle; and finish this soup in the same manner.
No. 141A.—GIBLET SOUP, THICK.
Prepare this as in the foregoing number, and then finish it as directed for thick mock-turtle, No. 140 A.
No. 142.—OX-TAIL SOUP.
Cut up an ox-tail through the joints; boil the pieces for ten minutes in water—drain and cool them; and then with a meat saw divide the larger pieces into four—by holding the saw between the chest and the edge of the table firmly, so that, by pressing the pieces of tail upon the edge of the saw, and then drawing them sharply to and fro, they will be easily divided. Next, place the pieces of ox-tail in a stewpan with carrot, onion, celery, garnished bunch of parsley and thyme, six cloves, a blade of mace and a dozen peppercorns; fill up with a gallon of good stock, or water (if the latter, three pounds of gravy beef nuts be added); set them on the fire to boil, skim well, and then set the stewpan to boil gently by the side of the fire until the pieces of tail are done : this will take about two hours. As soon as done, the stock must be strained from the tails, cleared from all grease, and after being clarified (see No. 6), must be strained into a soup-pot containing scooped carrots and turnips, button onions, and celery cut in the same manner as for jardinière soup, No. 133, and being finished in exactly the same way, pour it into the soup-tureen already containing the pieces of ox-tail, previously made hot.
No. 143.—OX-CHEEK SOUP.
Thoroughly wash the cheek in tepid water, and then parboil, or scald it over the fire with a handful of salt in the water; and having again washed the cheek, place it in a stewpan with carrots, turnips, celery, four onions—one stuck with twelve cloves—a blade of mace, twenty peppercorns, and a garnished bunch of parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme; fill up with stock or water; boil and skim well, and then set it to boil gently by the side of the fire for about four hours, when the cheek will be done sufficiently tender to enable you easily to remove the meat from the jaw-bone; and, having set the pieces in press between two dishes to become cold, proceed to clarify the stock as directed in No. 6, and having, with the clarified stock from the ox-cheek prepared a jardinière soup, No. 133, cut the cheek into inch-square pieces; put these in with the soup; boil together for a few minutes, and serve.
No. 144.—MULLIGATAWNEY SOUP.
Peel and slice up a dozen onions, and put these into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and fry them without colour over a slow fire ; when this is done, add six unpeeled apples and cut in slices ; and as soon as these have been dissolved over the fire, mix in six ounces of flour, two tablespoonfuls of curry paste (Crosse and Blackwell's is best), and a good spoonful of curry powder ; moisten with three quarts of good stock ; stir over the fire until the soup boils, and then set it to continue gently simmering by the side, to allow all grease &c., to rise to the surface ; remove this, rub the soup smoothly through a sieve or tammy ; and having poured it into a soup-pot, add poultry, game, veal, or pork, or any kind of fish, previously cooked, and cut into neat square pieces ; boil together for a few minutes, and serve with plain boiled rice in a separate dish.
Note.—When pieces of ox-tail, ox-cheek, tendons of veal, calf's brains, tails or feet, rabbit, &c., garnish the soup it is then designated ox-tail, &c., à l'Indiènne, or ox-tail soup in the Indian fashion.
No. 145—DUCHESS SOUP.
Mix two ounces of Bermuda arrowroot with half a tumbler of cold water, pour this into a stewpan containing a quart of good consommé, No. 4; stir this over the fire until it has boiled gently for about ten minutes, and then pour it into a soup-tureen containing small neatly-cut inch lengths of roasted or boiled poultry or game.
No. 146.—CALF'S TAILS SOUP.
Cut up two calves' tails into pieces about an inch and a half long; place these in a stewpan with a carrot, an onions stuck with four cloves, celery, a bunch of parsley, half a bay-leaf and thyme, a small bit of mace and four shalots; fill up with two quarts of stock; and boil very gently by the side of the fire for about an hour and a half, when the pieces of tail will be done. They must then be strained from the stock, washed in cold water, drained, and set aside; while their stock must be placed in a stewpan with six ounces of white thickening, No. 10, stirred over the fire, until it boils, allowed to throw up slowly by the side of the stove, to remove all grease, &c.; skimmed and strained into a soup-pot containing the pieces of calf's tails and a few small forcemeat quenelles. Five minutes before dinner-time, having first made the soup hot, stir gently into it a leason of four yolks of eggs, a gill of cream, a glass of sherry, a very little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese; and when the soup has been stirred over the fire for three minutes longer, serve.
No. 147.—CALF'S FEET SOUP.
This soup is made in exactly the same manner as the preceding, the only difference being that calf's feet must be substituted for calf's tails.
No. 148.—GROUSE SOUP
Roast off two grouse or black game, and while they are roasting, cut up small two carrots, a head of celery, two onions, two ounces of raw ham, a bay-leaf, thyme, and parsley, six cloves, a blade of mace, and four shalots; and fry these ingredients with a piece of butter, of a brown colour, in a stewpan. By this time, the grouse will be done; cut out the fillets and put them away in a plate; pound the carcases thoroughly in a mortar, and add them to the fried vegetables, and half a pound of brown thickening, No. 9; moisten with two quarts of good stock; stir over the fire until the soup boils; allow it to clear off the grease by the side of the fire for twenty minutes; remove this, and then rub the soup through a tammy in the usual way on a dish. The soup being passed and poured into a soup-pot, add the fillets of the grouse cut into thick shreds, a glass of wine and a small pinch of cayenne; make it hot by stirring it over the fire; skim it, and serve.
Note.—Pheasants, partridges, larks, woodcocks, snipes, rabbits, &c., prepared in the manner indicated for making grouse soup, will prove equally delicious.
No. 149.—HARE SOUP.
For the preparation of this most excellent soup, proceed as directed in No. 148, using for the purpose hare instead of grouse; and, indeed, where excessive economy is required, water may be used instead of stock, on account of the greater quantity of meat contained in a hare. Red wine is best adapted for finishing hare soup.
No. 150.—PEA SOUP.
Soak a quart of split-peas over night, and next day wash them in two waters, and put them in a stewpan with carrot, celery, onions, half a pound of raw ham or lean bacon; moisten with three quarts of broth, boil, skim, and set the peas by the side of the fire, to continue gently simmering for about two hours and a half, when the peas will probably be dissolved to a pulp; rub this through a tammy; pour the purée into a soup-pot; stir it over the fire until it boils; remove it to the side to throw up the skum; remove this as it rises; season with a little pepper, and salt if necessary; stir in a pat of butter, and send it to table with fried crusts, or toasted bread cut into small squares, and bruised dry mint separately.
Note.—Peas soup may be prepared more economically by putting a piece of salt-pork about two pounds weight in with the peas and vegetables, and following in all other respects the process indicated above; the pork, when done, may be served as part of the dinner.
No. 151.—GREEN PEA SOUP.
Prepare a quart of large peas, a good handful of parsley, the same of green onions, and two handfuls of green mint; boil these in three pints of water with a bit of butter and a little salt; and as soon as the peas are done, drain their liquor into a pan and reserve it; pound the peas in a mortar; mix them with the liquor the peas were boiled in; rub through the tammy or sieve, and pour the purée into a soup-pot. When about to send to table, make the soup hot by stirring it over the fire without allowing it to boil; add a pat of butter, a little pepper and salt, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and about two ounces of glaze; serve hot, with fried crusts on a plate, separately.
Note.—The fried crusts are prepared as follows: viz.,—take a piece of the crumb of a stale half-quartern loaf, say a fourth part, and cut this into slices less than a quarter of an inch thick, and again cut up these slices into very even small squares; these must be fried in a stewpan, with about an ounce of butter, over the fire—care being taken to toss them lightly and almost continuously while they are being fried; and when the assume a light golden-brown shade, drain off the butter, and place them upon clean paper to absorb the grease.
No. 152.—ASPARAGUS SOUP.
Break off all that is tender from a bundle of green sprue asparagus, and put this in a large pan with half a peck of fresh-gathered spinach, a large handful of parsley, the same of spring onions, and having washed these in two waters, and drained them in a sieve, proceed to boil them in nearly two quarts of water, with a bit of butter and a little salt; and, as soon as the asparagus are done, strain off the liquor, and be kept in reserve; bruise the asparagus, &c., in a mortar; add this to the liquor, and having rubbed the purée through a tammy, pour it into a soup-pot; and when about to send it to table, add three ounces of glaze, two ounces of flour kneaded with the same quantity of butter, a little pepper and salt, and a spoonful of white sugar; stir the soup over the fire until hot, without allowing it to boil; and serve with fried crusts, No. 151, separately.
No. 153. CARROT SOUP A LA CRESSY.
Shave off the red part of twelve large carrots, and put it in a stewpan with four onions, two heads of celery, four ounces of raw ham, and two ounces of butter, a few peppercorns, and a quart of water; put the lid on close, and set this to simmer gently for two hours over a slow fire. At the end of this time the carrots will be done quite soft; the stock must be drained from them, and kept in reserve, while the carrots, &c., are first bruised in a mortar, and being added to their liquor and a quart of stock, must be rubbed through a tammy, poured into a soup-pot, stirred over the fire to boil, and placed by the side to clear itself of all grease, &c., which must be removed with a spoon as it rises to the surface; and when the purée has gently boiled in this way for a quarter of an hour, add a bit of glaze, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and a little pepper and salt, if necessary, and serve with fried crusts, in a plate.
Note—In nearly all cases where glaze is recommended to be added when finishing a soup or a sauce, its use may be dispensed with when extreme economy is the order of the day; yet it must be admitted, that this omission will not tend to improve the soup, &c., unless indeed the stock is very good.
No. 154.—POTATO SOUP.
Peel and slice up a dozen good potatoes and six onions, and put them into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; add two quarts of white stock, or water, and allow the whole to boil gently over a slow fire, until the potatoes are done; then rub them through a tammy, pour the soup into a soup-pot, stir it over the fire until quite hot; add half a pint of cream, and serve with fried crusts, separately.
No. 155.—MUTTON BROTH.
Take three pounds of the scrag end of a neck of mutton, and chop it into eight pieces; put these in a stewpan with three turnips, two leeks, one head of celery, a handful of parsley and a sprig of thyme tied neatly together; fill up with a gallon of water; boil, skim well, set the stewpan by the side of the fire to boil gently for three hours;—and then having strained it through a sieve, pour it into a soup-pot containing four ounces of parboiled pearl barley, and three sound turnips cut into very small dice; set the broth to boil again very gently by the side of the fire for about an hour; remove all the grease; add some of the best pieces of the mutton, kept in reserve for that purpose; ascertain that the seasoning is delicate, and serve.
No. 156.—SCOTCH BROTH.
Prepare some mutton broth as indicated in No. 155, but let it be made with rather more meat, and while the broth is in course of preparation, cut into very small square dice-like forms the following vegetables: viz.,—two carrots, four turnips, four leeks, two heads of celery, and two onions; and having placed these in a soup-pot with either six ounces of parboiled Scotch barley or rice, add thereto the strained mutton broth; boil the while together gently by the side of the fire for about an hour; skim off the grease, &c.; ascertain that the seasoning is palatable and serve.
No. 157.—HODGE-PODGE.
Prepare the mutton broth as directed in the preceding recipes, and in addition to its contents, add a pint of green peas. Allow the soup to boil gently until the ingredients are thoroughly done, then mix in with them a pinch of purée of spinach and parsley; taste to ascertain that the seasoning be correct, and serve quite hot.
No. 158.—KNUCKLE OF VEAL AND RICE SOUP.
Take a good-sized knuckle of veal, cut it into six pieces, sawing the bones through neatly. Place the pieces in a small stock-pot; fill up with common broth or water; boil and skim well; add carrot, onion, turnip, and celery, a few peppercorns, and salt; and having allowed this to boil very gently for about three hours, remove the best pieces of the veal upon a plate to be kept in reserve; strain the broth into a smaller soup-pot, already containing three-quarters of a pound of par-boiled rice; boil together for half an hour; add the pieces of veal kept in reserve; skim off all grease from the soup, and serve hot.
No. 159.—COCKY-LEEKY.
Truss and boil a fowl in three pints of light-coloured stock, and when done, cut the fowl up into neat pieces and let these be kept in reserve between two plates to prevent them from becoming dried up. Next add the broth which the fowl has been boiled in, to a dozen white leeks cut into inch lengths, and half a pound of parboiled rice; season with a little mignionette pepper, and salt if necessary, boil together for half an hour and serve hot, with the pieces of fowl in the cocky-leeky.
Note.—This soup is an excellent stomachic, and is capable of curing a severe cold.
No. 160.—ONION PORRIDGE.
Take a Spanish onion as big as you can procure, peel and split it into quarters, and put these into a small stewpan with a pint of water, a pat of butter, and a little salt; boil gently for half an hour; add a pinch of pepper, and eat the porridge just before retiring to bed. This is also an excellent remedy for colds, and was imparted to me by a jolly, warm-hearted Yorkshire farmer.
No. 161.—BONNE FEMME SOUP.
Shred fine the following ingredients: viz.,—a cucumber, flour lettuces, one onion, and a handful of chervil; place these in a small soup-pot with two pats of butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; simmer over a sow fire for about ten minutes, then add a good spoonful of flour; moisten with three pints of good white veal stock, stir over the fire until the soup boils, and then set it by the side to boil very gently for a quarter of an hour. When about to send the soup to table, make it hot, and stir into it a leason of six yolks of eggs, half a pint of cream, and a dessert-spoonful of sugar.
No. 162.—PALESTINE SOUP.
First peel and then slice up a peck of Jerusalem artichokes, four onions, one head of celery; and having placed these in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and three pints of white veal stock, season with nutmeg, pepper, salt, and one ounce of sugar; boil gently for an hour, rub through the tammy or a sieve; remove the purée into a stewpan; stir it over the fire to make it hot; add a pint of cream, and serve with fried crusts, separately.
No. 163.—WHITE CELERY SOUP.
Slice up fine six heads of celery, four onions, and four ounces of raw ham; put these in a stewpan with four ounces of butter and a pint of white stock, or water; simmer very gently over a slow fire until the celery becomes quite soft; then add half a pound of flour, mix together, moisten with a quart of good veal stock, stir the soup over the fire for twenty minutes; rub the purée through a tammy into a dish, and having poured it into a soup-pot, make it hot; add half a pint of cream, and serve with fried crusts, separately.
No. 164.—TURNIP SOUP.
The process is the same as for making celery soup, No. 163, merely substituting turnips for celery.
No. 165.—MACARONI SOUP.
Cut some boiled macaroni into inch lengths, and put these into a soup-pot containing one or more quarts of good clear consommé; boil gently for five minutes, and serve hot, with two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese separately on a plate.
No. 166.—VERMICELLI SOUP.
Set a quart, or more, of good clear stock to boil, and then stir in, as it continues to boil gently by the side of the stove, about six ounces of vermicelli, lightly broken in order to prevent too long filaments hanging over the sides of the spoon as it is carried to the mouth, which is as unpleasant to the consumer as it is doubtless to the beholder. When the soup has boiled for ten minutes, serve hot, with grated Parmesan cheese separately.
No. 167.—ITALIAN PASTE SOUP.
Prepare this as in the foregoing recipe, using for this purpose any kind of Italian pastes, which are to be procured in great perfection at Crosse and Blackwell's warehouse, Soho-square.
Note.—When it happens that any portion of either of the foregoing soups, made of any kind of Italian pastes, —such as macaroni, vermicelli, lasagnes, &c., are left from a previous day's dinner, such may be easily converted into a white soup, by merely adding a leason of four yolks of eggs and half a pint of cream, and a spoonful of grated cheese.
No. 167A.—RAVIOLIS SOUP.
First, prepare the raviolis in manner following: viz.,—mix half a pound of flour with two raw eggs, a little salt, and a small pat of butter, an this done, roll out the paste as thin as a sheet of paper; and while the paste is being prepared, get ready the following mixture:—two ounces of roasted poultry or game, one ounce of ham, four cleaned anchovies, one ounce of cooked spinach, one shalot, three hard yolks of eggs, two raw yolks, four ounces of hard curd; season lightly with nutmeg and pepper, and one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese,—no salt. Next, with a paste-brush slightly moisten the rolled-out paste before you, and having placed mall round portions of the raviolis mixture at an inch and a half distance from each other, lift the edge of the paste left sufficiently wide for that purpose, upon theses; fasten each round the edge by pressing tightly with the edge of the thumb, and stamp the raviolis out with a small fluted tin cutter, and place them on a floured baking-sheet to dry. Having used up the paste and mixture in this manner, and when the raviolis have become dry over their surface, throw or drop them in boiling water, in order to parboil them for about six minutes; and having drained them upon a hair sieve, add to them some good strong game stock; season with a glass of madeira and a pinch of mignionette pepper, and serve hot : this is one of the very best soups it is possible to send to a good table.
No. 168.—LORD MARCUS HILL'S SOUP.
Grease the bottom of a four-quart sized stewpan with an ounce of butter, and place therein five pounds of knuckle of veal and half a pound of raw ham; to these add two carrots, two onions, and one head of celery; moisten with a quart of broth, and set the whole to boil down sharply until reduced to a glaze; then fill up with light broth or water; boil and skim,—and when the stock has boiled for about two hours, strain it off. While this is going on, shred four large lettuces, a handful of spring onions, two cucumbers peeled, and a handful of chervil; and having put these into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, pepper and salt; stir over the fire for ten minutes; add half a pound of flour, mix together, moisten with stock, boil gently on the corner of the fire for half an hour, remove the scum, add half an ounce of sugar and a pint of boiled green peas, and serve.
No. 169.—Lobster Soup.
First, cut up very small the following ingredients : viz.,—a carrot, onion, celery, four shalots, bay-leaf, and thyme, and some parsley; fry these in a stewpan with a piece of butter until they are lightly browned; then add six ounces of flour, mix well; moisten with three pints of good stock (or water if for meagre soup); stir over the fire, and when it boils, set it by the side to simmer gently for half an hour : while this part of the preparations is going on, break up a fresh cooked hen lobster; remove the meat from the tail and claws, and cut this into neat square pieces, to be kept in reserve; all the remainder of the lobster and shell, together with a little spawn, must be well bruised in a mortar, and stirred into the soup as it boils; and five minutes after let the whole be rubbed through a tammy, poured into a soup-pot, made hot, and skimmed; seasoned with a glass of sherry, a little Harvey, lemon-juice, anchovy, and cayenne; and poured into the soup-tureen already containing the cut-up lobster, and some small quenelles.
No. 170.—CRAB SOUP.
Boil half a pound of rice in a quart of white stock, water, or milk, with a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and an ounce of butter; and, while the rice is being very slowly simmered, break up a fresh-boiled crab, separating carefully all the white meat from the claws, &c., which must be kept in reserve; pound all the yellow pith from the body-shell with the boiled rice, and having mixed the whole with a quart of hot stock, rub it through a tammy; pour it into a soup-pot, add the white meat from the claws, season with a small pinch of cayenne, and a little anchovy, and a pint of cream; stir over the fire until quite hot, without allowing it to boil, and serve.
No. 171.—CRAYFISH SOUP.
Prepare the sauce for this soup in the same manner as for lobster soup, No. 169. Boil three dozen crayfish with a glass of sherry and a little stock; and when done, strain the liquor to the sauce; pick the tails from the shells, and keep them in reserve; clear all the pith from the body-shells without breaking them, and keep these also in reserve; pound the shells, pith and claws, add this to the sauce, and, having rubbed it through the tammy, pour the soup into a small soup-pot. Fill the body-shells with a little forcemeat seasoned with chopped parsley and shalot, and a little anchovy. and bake them on a baking-sheet in the oven for six minutes. All this being ready, make the soup hot by stirring it over the fire; skim it; season with lobster butter, No. 129, a little cayenne, lemon-juice, anchovy, and a glass of sherry, and pour it into the tureen containing the tails and bodies of the crayfish, and serve hot.
No. 172.—PRAWN SOUP.
This is made in the same manner as crayfish soup, No. 171, using fifty prawns for the purpose instead of crayfish.
No. 173.—VICTORIA SOUP
Wash and scald half a pound of Frankfort pearl barley, and put this into a stewpan with three pints of good white stock, and simmer it very gently over a slow fire for and hour and a half; remove a third of it into a small soup-pot; rub the remainder through a tammy or sieve, pour it to the whole barley; add half a pint of cream; season with a little salt, stir it over the fire until hot, and serve.
This soup may be prepared also with rice; they are, or at least were, the only soups eaten by the Queen when I had the honour of waiting on Her Majesty.
No. 174.—WHITE SOUP A LA REINE.
Truss a fowl; put it on the spit, and set it down before the fire to roast; and while the fowl is roasting, wash three-quarters of a pound of rice, and boil it very gently in three pints of white veal stock for about an hour. Remove all the meat from the fowl; chop and pound this in a mortar, with an ounce of butter and a gill of broth; and when it is thoroughly reduced to a smooth pulp, add the rice; pound all together; take this up into a stewpan, moisten with a quart of broth (made with the bones of the fowl and a pound of veal, with carrot, celery, and onion); rub the purée through a tammy, and when this is done, pour the soup into a small soup-pot; stir it over the fire until hot, season with a little pepper and salt, mix in half a pint of cream, and serve with fried crusts on the surface of the soup.
No. 175.—SPRING HERBS SOUP.
Take two lettuces, a little sorrel, a handful of purslain, dandelion, and chervil; shred all these; wash them clean, and having placed them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a little pepper and salt, stew the herbs over a slow fire for ten minutes; add a tablespoonful of flour, and a pint and a half of light veal stock; stir over the fire to boil gently for a quarter of an hour; and then mix in a leason of four yolks of eggs, half a pint of cream, and a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and serve hot.
Note.—This medicinal soup possesses great efficacy in cooling a heated state of the blood.
No. 176.—RUSSIAN SOUP, OR TSCHI.
First cut two large onions into small dice, and shred a small cabbage finely, and chop these shreds across to shorten the filaments; fry all this in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, until it assumes a light colour; then mix in two ounces of flour; moisten with three pints of good brown stock; season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and having stirred the soup over the fire till it boils, set it by the side to boil gently for about half an hour; then add a glass of French white wine, some roughly-chopped tarragon and chervil, and pour it into a soup-tureen containing about two ounces of lean ham cut into small shreds, and two dozen small sausages, made as follows: viz., to six ounces of lean beef add four ounces of suet, and having chopped and pounded these together, season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, chopped parsley, and thyme; add one whole egg; mix well together by pounding; roll out the sausage-meat into the form of small round balls, and fry these in a sautapan with a little butter.
No. 177.—SPANISH SOUP.
Spread a little butter over the bottom of a four-quart-sized stewpan; upon this lay four onions cut into slices, and then four pounds of gravy-beef cut into thick slices, half a pound of raw ham or lean bacon, an old partridge or pheasant; add two carrots, celery, and parsley roots, a bay-leaf, thyme, and a small clove of garlic, tied up tightly, six cloves and a bit of mace; moisten with a quart of stock, or water; boil, skim well, and when the stock has simmered gently by the side of the fire for two hours, strain it off. After removing all the grease, let it be poured into a soup-pot containing carrots and turnips, scooped in the form of olives, some celery and leeks shred thickly, a pint of garbanças (Spanish peas) previously soaked and boiled, and a dessert-spoonful of Spanish sweet red pepper; boil gently until the vegetables are done; then add the partridge or pheasant, cut into neat pieces, also the ham, and some small pork sausages which have been boiled in the stock.
Note.—This substantial soup, which in Spain is called "Olla Podrida," forms of itself an excellent dinner.
No. 178.—PROVENCAL SOUP, OR BOUILLABAISSE.
Divide two Portugal onions into quarters, and having shred these, fry them in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of salad-oil until the onions acquire a light colour; then add a dessert-spoonful of Spanish sweet red pepper, a little salt, and a quart of good stock, or water; boil together for three minutes, and then add some small slices of fillets of any kind of fish most agreeable or convenient; boil these for a few minutes, and serve the bouillabaisse with the crusts cut from a French roll fried in a little oil or butter.
Note.—For economy sake, or to suit the taste of those who prefer eating the fish separately from the soup, slices of any fish of larger size may be cooked in the soup, and served in a dish, with one of the numerous varieties of sauces contained in this work.
No. 179.—VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP
Split, peel and remove the seedy core from six vegetable-marrows, place them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and four lumps of sugar; moisten with a pint of white stock, or water; boil gently for half an hour, rub the purée through a hair sieve or tammy, pour it into a soup-pot, add a pint of good stock, and half a pint of cream, stir it over the fire until quite hot, and serve with fried crusts.
No. 180.—CHESTNUT SOUP
Scald, peel, and scrape fifty large chestnuts; put these into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, an onion, four lumps of sugar, and a little pepper and salt; and simmer the whole over a slow fire for three-quarters of an hour; then bruise the chestnuts in a mortar; remove the pulp into a stewpan; add a quart of good brown gravy, and having rubbed the purée through a tammy, pour it into a stewpan; make it hot, and serve with fried crusts.
No. 181.—GERMAN SOUP.
Take one carrot, a turnip, a head of celery, parsnip, and onion, or the white parts of spring onions, and either cut or scoop all these into very small squares or olive shapes; put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter, a spoonful of sugar, and a little pepper and salt, and dry them lightly over a slow fire; then add two lettuces and a little tarragon and chervil shred coarsely; stir these again over the fire for a few minutes, and mix in two ounces of flour; moisten with three pints of good white stock, boil gently for half an hour, incorporate a leason of four yolks, and half a pint of cream, without boiling; ascertain that the seasoning is correct, and serve.
No. 182.—ITALIAN SOUP.
Half roast either a fowl, pheasant, duck, partridge, or a rabbit; and put it into a stewpan with four ounces of raw ham, two onions, six ripe red tomatas, a head of celery, a carrot sliced up, four shalots, a bay-leaf and thyme, four cloves, a small bit of mace, and twelve peppercorns; moisten with a pint of stock and a glass of wine, boil down to a glaze; fill up with two quarts of stock, or water; boil gently on the corner of the fire for an hour; skim, and strain the stock into a pan; reserve the fowl, or whatever has been used to make the soup, on a plate; pound all the vegetables in a mortar; remove this pulp into a stewpan; moisten with the stock; rub it through a tammy; pour the purée into a soup-pot; stir it over the fire until it boils; let it throw up by the side for ten minutes; skim it well, and then stir into the soup a paste made of three anchovies, a few capers, and a pinch of cayenne pounded and rubbed through a sieve; and pour the soup into a tureen already containing the fowl cut into small neat pieces.
No. 183.—OYSTER SOUP.
Scald, drain, wash and beard four dozen oysters, reserving their liquor in a pan. Put four ounces of butter into a stewpan to barely dissolve over the fire; mix in four ounces of flour; moisten with a pint and a half of good white stock or milk; season with nutmeg and a pinch of cayenne, and a teaspoonful of anchovy; add half a pint of cream; stir over the fire for a quarter of an hour's gentle boiling; and then, having cut the oysters each into halves, pour the hot soup over them in the tureen.
Note—This favourite soup may also be prepared in like manner, and with equal chance of success, by using cockles, muscles, whelks, or collops for the purpose; but it must not be forgotten that great care and cleanliness must be observed in well washing them, in order effectually to remove all sand or grit.
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Francatelli's Chapter 3 — Soups
CHAPTER III.
Soups in General
Take three red carrots, as many turnips, and the white parts of the same number of heads of celery, leeks, and onions; cut all these into thin shreds about an inch long, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, a little salt and sugar; and stirring lightly over a low fire, fry them of a very light colour; then pour them into a convenient-sized soup-pot, add sufficient clear stock for the quantity of soup requried; set it to boil, and then remove it to the side of the fire to throw up the scum and grease; remove these as they rise to the surface; add two cabbage-lettuces, a few leaves of sorrel, some tarragon and chervil, all shred fine, and four lumps of sugar; and, after allowing the juliènne to simmer until the vegetables are done, ascertain that the seasoning is palatable, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Julienne Soup
Scrape, peel, and clean three carrots, and a little number of turnips; and with small-sized vegetable scoops, proceed to scoop them out into the form of peas, olives, &c., according to fancy or convenience. When this is done, place the said vegetables, with equal quantities of very small button onions, celery, cut the size of carrots, &c., some pulled leaves of lettuce, tarragon, and chervil, in a soup-pot; fill up with clear stock; add a bit of sugar : boil gently until the vegetables are done; taste to ascertain that the flavour is good, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Jardiniere Soup
Clean, and cut up into very minute square pieces the following vegetables: viz., three carrots, and a like number of turnips, heads of celery, leeks, and onions; fry these with a bit of butter and a little sugar, and proceed in every particular in the same manner as indicated for juliènne soup : and when ready to send to table, add a few boiled Brussels sprouts when in season, and some very small round crusts from a French roll.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Brunoise Soup
This soup is prepared very much in the same manner as jardinière soup, excepting that, as indeed its very name sufficiently implies, it must be made with early summer vegetables only; and when about to be sent to table, some ready-boiled asparagus-peas and green peas should be added.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Spring Soup
With a round tin cutter about the size of a florin, stamp out about four good-sized lettuces; and having put these into a soup-pot with the heads of a few spring-onions, a few leaves of tarragon, and some chervil, four leaves of green mint, and a pint of young green peas, fill up with clear consommé, season with a small pinch of mignionette pepper, and a good lump of sugar; boil gently until the peas, &c., are done, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Chiffonade Soup
Having cleansed three heads of celery, cut them into inch lengths; boil them in water for five minutes, and when drained, place them in a soup-pot with half a pint of button onions, a little tarragon and chervil, a piece of sugar, a pinch of mignionette pepper; fill up with game stock; boil gently until the celery is thoroughly done, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Celery and Button Onions Soup
Break six fresh whole eggs into a basin, add thereto half a pint of cream, a gill of strong stock (game or poultry if possible), a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; beat this up with a fork until well mixed, and strain the mixture into a plain mould which has been previously lightly buttered round the sides and bottom to prevent this savory custard from sticking to the mould, while it is being gently steamed over a slow fire, in a covered stewpan containing a little hot water; and, when the custard has become firm to the touch—which will take about half an hour, allow it to become cold; and after having turned it out upon a plate, cut it into neat square pieces the size of a filbert; place these gently in a soup tureen; add some clear bright game or chicken consommé, and serve. A few asparagus-peas, green peas, or French beans cut small, may be added when in season.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's D'Esclignac Soup
This is prepared in the same manner as the foregoing, by substituting small teaspoon quenelles for the pieces of custard.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Consommé with Quenelles
To some bright consommé add a dozen small teaspoon quenelles, half the usual quantity of custard for D'Esclignac, No. 137, and some very small rolls the size of cobnuts, made of Spanish puff-paste, and previously baked in an oven. When about to serve this kind of soup, the quenelles and pieces of custard must be placed in the soup-tureen, the consommé poured gently over them, and the rolls above alluded to, placed the last thing on the surface of the soup.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Carlton-house Soup
First bone, and then parboil the calf's head in plenty of water, and a small handful of salt, for about twenty minutes; and when the calf's head has become sufficiently cold, by steeping in cold water, proceed to trim away the rough parts, particularly the cuticle about the mouth. Having done this, next place the head in a large stewpan, with a good-sized knuckle of veal, about a pound of raw ham, two carrots, two onions—one stuck with twelve cloves—a head of celery, a bunch of basil, marjoram, lemon thyme, a sprig of common thyme, some parsley, winter savory, and spring onions, and two blades of mace; add a quart of good stock, set the stewpan over the fire to boil sharply until the liquid is reduced to a glaze—due care being given to this part of the process to prevent the soup becoming burnt. Next, fill up the stewpan either with stock or water; and when it boils again, skim it carefully, keeping it gently boiling by the side of the fire, until the calf's head is nearly done. The head must now be carefully lifted out of the stock with a skimmer, and after being washed in a large pan of cold water, and well drained upon a sieve or cloth, placed in a press, between two large dishes, in the larder to become cold. The calf's-head stock must now be strained through a sieve into a clean stewpan; the grease entirely removed from its surface, and then clarified by mixing into it three whites of eggs previously whipped with a pint of cold water; set the stock on the fire, and whisk it until it boils, and then lift it to the side of the stove, there to boil gently until it has become bright; this will take about twenty minutes. The stock must now be strained through a napkin into a soup-pot; the calf's head cut into pieces an inch square, and being placed in the mock-turtle stock, add half a pint of madeira, a pinch of cayenne, and allow the soup to boil gently by the side of the fire until the pieces of meat are thoroughly done. When about to send to the table, add some very small forcemeat quenelles, and a little lemon-juice.
Note.—Forcemeat, for the quenelles here alluded to, is prepared as follows: viz.,—to half a pound of lean veal, pounded and rubbed through a sieve, add two ounces of panda, No. 184, six hard yolks of eggs, an ounce of butter, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and three or four yolks of raw eggs; pound all this in a mortar, rub it through a wire sieve, and then, having rolled this preparation out (with some flour shaked over the table) into the form of toy-marbles, throw these into some water kept ready boiling in a stewpan for the purpose; they will be done in six minutes; after being drained, put them into the mock-turtle.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Clear Mock-turtle Soup
Prepare this in the first instance in the same manner as directed in the foregoing recipe for mock-turtle clear; and, when the heat is done, and placed in press, and the stock has been passed or strained into another stewpan, add about a pound and a quarter of thickening, No. 9, and stir it over the fire until the sauce boils; remove it to the side to remain gently simmering, in order to enable it to throw up all grease, &c., which remove, and then add half a pint of madeira or sherry, the juice of half a lemon, and a pinch of cayenne; put the pieces of the calf's head (cut into small squares) into a soup-pot, strain the sauce to these, and having allowed the soup to boil gently until the meat is done, skim it, and then add the small quenelles, as in the former case.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Thick Mock-turtle Soup
Take two sets of geese giblets thoroughly cleansed, and parboiled in hot water over the fire for ten minutes; drain, and immerse them in cold water for five minutes; and then place them in a stewpan with a bunch of basil, marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, and parsley, tied neatly together; carrot, celery, two onions stuck with a dozen cloves, two blades of mace, and six shalots; fill up with about a gallon of good stock, or water (in the latter case, add four pounds of knuckle of veal) : set the giblets thus far prepared to boil over the fire; skim them well, and allow them to boil very gently by the side of the fire, until they are nearly done; then strain off the stock, wash the giblets in cold water, drain and cut them up,—the wings and feet into inch and half lengths, and the livers, &c., into smaller pieces. Next, after the giblet stock has been strained into another stewpan, and freed from all grease, proceed to clarify it as directed for clear mock-turtle; and finish this soup in the same manner.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Clear Giblet Soup
Prepare this as in the foregoing number, and then finish it as directed for thick mock-turtle, No. 140 A.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Thick Giblet Soup
Cut up an ox-tail through the joints; boil the pieces for ten minutes in water—drain and cool them; and then with a meat saw divide the larger pieces into four—by holding the saw between the chest and the edge of the table firmly, so that, by pressing the pieces of tail upon the edge of the saw, and then drawing them sharply to and fro, they will be easily divided. Next, place the pieces of ox-tail in a stewpan with carrot, onion, celery, garnished bunch of parsley and thyme, six cloves, a blade of mace and a dozen peppercorns; fill up with a gallon of good stock, or water (if the latter, three pounds of gravy beef nuts be added); set them on the fire to boil, skim well, and then set the stewpan to boil gently by the side of the fire until the pieces of tail are done : this will take about two hours. As soon as done, the stock must be strained from the tails, cleared from all grease, and after being clarified (see No. 6), must be strained into a soup-pot containing scooped carrots and turnips, button onions, and celery cut in the same manner as for jardinière soup, No. 133, and being finished in exactly the same way, pour it into the soup-tureen already containing the pieces of ox-tail, previously made hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Ox-tail Soup
Thoroughly wash the cheek in tepid water, and then parboil, or scald it over the fire with a handful of salt in the water; and having again washed the cheek, place it in a stewpan with carrots, turnips, celery, four onions—one stuck with twelve cloves—a blade of mace, twenty peppercorns, and a garnished bunch of parsley, bay-leaf, and thyme; fill up with stock or water; boil and skim well, and then set it to boil gently by the side of the fire for about four hours, when the cheek will be done sufficiently tender to enable you easily to remove the meat from the jaw-bone; and, having set the pieces in press between two dishes to become cold, proceed to clarify the stock as directed in No. 6, and having, with the clarified stock from the ox-cheek prepared a jardinière soup, No. 133, cut the cheek into inch-square pieces; put these in with the soup; boil together for a few minutes, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Ox-cheek Soup
Peel and slice up a dozen onions, and put these into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and fry them without colour over a slow fire ; when this is done, add six unpeeled apples and cut in slices ; and as soon as these have been dissolved over the fire, mix in six ounces of flour, two tablespoonfuls of curry paste (Crosse and Blackwell's is best), and a good spoonful of curry powder ; moisten with three quarts of good stock ; stir over the fire until the soup boils, and then set it to continue gently simmering by the side, to allow all grease &c., to rise to the surface ; remove this, rub the soup smoothly through a sieve or tammy ; and having poured it into a soup-pot, add poultry, game, veal, or pork, or any kind of fish, previously cooked, and cut into neat square pieces ; boil together for a few minutes, and serve with plain boiled rice in a separate dish.
Note.—When pieces of ox-tail, ox-cheek, tendons of veal, calf's brains, tails or feet, rabbit, &c., garnish the soup it is then designated ox-tail, &c., à l'Indiènne, or ox-tail soup in the Indian fashion.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Mulligatawney Soup
Mix two ounces of Bermuda arrowroot with half a tumbler of cold water, pour this into a stewpan containing a quart of good consommé, No. 4; stir this over the fire until it has boiled gently for about ten minutes, and then pour it into a soup-tureen containing small neatly-cut inch lengths of roasted or boiled poultry or game.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Duchess Soup
Cut up two calves' tails into pieces about an inch and a half long; place these in a stewpan with a carrot, an onions stuck with four cloves, celery, a bunch of parsley, half a bay-leaf and thyme, a small bit of mace and four shalots; fill up with two quarts of stock; and boil very gently by the side of the fire for about an hour and a half, when the pieces of tail will be done. They must then be strained from the stock, washed in cold water, drained, and set aside; while their stock must be placed in a stewpan with six ounces of white thickening, No. 10, stirred over the fire, until it boils, allowed to throw up slowly by the side of the stove, to remove all grease, &c.; skimmed and strained into a soup-pot containing the pieces of calf's tails and a few small forcemeat quenelles. Five minutes before dinner-time, having first made the soup hot, stir gently into it a leason of four yolks of eggs, a gill of cream, a glass of sherry, a very little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese; and when the soup has been stirred over the fire for three minutes longer, serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Calf's Tails Soup
This soup is made in exactly the same manner as the preceding, the only difference being that calf's feet must be substituted for calf's tails.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Calf's Feet Soup
Roast off two grouse or black game, and while they are roasting, cut up small two carrots, a head of celery, two onions, two ounces of raw ham, a bay-leaf, thyme, and parsley, six cloves, a blade of mace, and four shalots; and fry these ingredients with a piece of butter, of a brown colour, in a stewpan. By this time, the grouse will be done; cut out the fillets and put them away in a plate; pound the carcases thoroughly in a mortar, and add them to the fried vegetables, and half a pound of brown thickening, No. 9; moisten with two quarts of good stock; stir over the fire until the soup boils; allow it to clear off the grease by the side of the fire for twenty minutes; remove this, and then rub the soup through a tammy in the usual way on a dish. The soup being passed and poured into a soup-pot, add the fillets of the grouse cut into thick shreds, a glass of wine and a small pinch of cayenne; make it hot by stirring it over the fire; skim it, and serve.
Note.—Pheasants, partridges, larks, woodcocks, snipes, rabbits, &c., prepared in the manner indicated for making grouse soup, will prove equally delicious.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Grouse Soup
For the preparation of this most excellent soup, proceed as directed in No. 148, using for the purpose hare instead of grouse; and, indeed, where excessive economy is required, water may be used instead of stock, on account of the greater quantity of meat contained in a hare. Red wine is best adapted for finishing hare soup.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Hare Soup
Soak a quart of split-peas over night, and next day wash them in two waters, and put them in a stewpan with carrot, celery, onions, half a pound of raw ham or lean bacon; moisten with three quarts of broth, boil, skim, and set the peas by the side of the fire, to continue gently simmering for about two hours and a half, when the peas will probably be dissolved to a pulp; rub this through a tammy; pour the purée into a soup-pot; stir it over the fire until it boils; remove it to the side to throw up the skum; remove this as it rises; season with a little pepper, and salt if necessary; stir in a pat of butter, and send it to table with fried crusts, or toasted bread cut into small squares, and bruised dry mint separately.
Note.—Peas soup may be prepared more economically by putting a piece of salt-pork about two pounds weight in with the peas and vegetables, and following in all other respects the process indicated above; the pork, when done, may be served as part of the dinner.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Pea Soup
Prepare a quart of large peas, a good handful of parsley, the same of green onions, and two handfuls of green mint; boil these in three pints of water with a bit of butter and a little salt; and as soon as the peas are done, drain their liquor into a pan and reserve it; pound the peas in a mortar; mix them with the liquor the peas were boiled in; rub through the tammy or sieve, and pour the purée into a soup-pot. When about to send to table, make the soup hot by stirring it over the fire without allowing it to boil; add a pat of butter, a little pepper and salt, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and about two ounces of glaze; serve hot, with fried crusts on a plate, separately.
Note.—The fried crusts are prepared as follows: viz.,—take a piece of the crumb of a stale half-quartern loaf, say a fourth part, and cut this into slices less than a quarter of an inch thick, and again cut up these slices into very even small squares; these must be fried in a stewpan, with about an ounce of butter, over the fire—care being taken to toss them lightly and almost continuously while they are being fried; and when the assume a light golden-brown shade, drain off the butter, and place them upon clean paper to absorb the grease.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Green Pea Soup
Break off all that is tender from a bundle of green sprue asparagus, and put this in a large pan with half a peck of fresh-gathered spinach, a large handful of parsley, the same of spring onions, and having washed these in two waters, and drained them in a sieve, proceed to boil them in nearly two quarts of water, with a bit of butter and a little salt; and, as soon as the asparagus are done, strain off the liquor, and be kept in reserve; bruise the asparagus, &c., in a mortar; add this to the liquor, and having rubbed the purée through a tammy, pour it into a soup-pot; and when about to send it to table, add three ounces of glaze, two ounces of flour kneaded with the same quantity of butter, a little pepper and salt, and a spoonful of white sugar; stir the soup over the fire until hot, without allowing it to boil; and serve with fried crusts, No. 151, separately.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Asparagus Soup
Shave off the red part of twelve large carrots, and put it in a stewpan with four onions, two heads of celery, four ounces of raw ham, and two ounces of butter, a few peppercorns, and a quart of water; put the lid on close, and set this to simmer gently for two hours over a slow fire. At the end of this time the carrots will be done quite soft; the stock must be drained from them, and kept in reserve, while the carrots, &c., are first bruised in a mortar, and being added to their liquor and a quart of stock, must be rubbed through a tammy, poured into a soup-pot, stirred over the fire to boil, and placed by the side to clear itself of all grease, &c., which must be removed with a spoon as it rises to the surface; and when the purée has gently boiled in this way for a quarter of an hour, add a bit of glaze, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and a little pepper and salt, if necessary, and serve with fried crusts, in a plate.
Note—In nearly all cases where glaze is recommended to be added when finishing a soup or a sauce, its use may be dispensed with when extreme economy is the order of the day; yet it must be admitted, that this omission will not tend to improve the soup, &c., unless indeed the stock is very good.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Carrot Soup à la Cressy
Peel and slice up a dozen good potatoes and six onions, and put them into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; add two quarts of white stock, or water, and allow the whole to boil gently over a slow fire, until the potatoes are done; then rub them through a tammy, pour the soup into a soup-pot, stir it over the fire until quite hot; add half a pint of cream, and serve with fried crusts, separately.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Potato Soup
Take three pounds of the scrag end of a neck of mutton, and chop it into eight pieces; put these in a stewpan with three turnips, two leeks, one head of celery, a handful of parsley and a sprig of thyme tied neatly together; fill up with a gallon of water; boil, skim well, set the stewpan by the side of the fire to boil gently for three hours;—and then having strained it through a sieve, pour it into a soup-pot containing four ounces of parboiled pearl barley, and three sound turnips cut into very small dice; set the broth to boil again very gently by the side of the fire for about an hour; remove all the grease; add some of the best pieces of the mutton, kept in reserve for that purpose; ascertain that the seasoning is delicate, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Mutton Broth
Prepare some mutton broth as indicated in No. 155, but let it be made with rather more meat, and while the broth is in course of preparation, cut into very small square dice-like forms the following vegetables: viz.,—two carrots, four turnips, four leeks, two heads of celery, and two onions; and having placed these in a soup-pot with either six ounces of parboiled Scotch barley or rice, add thereto the strained mutton broth; boil the while together gently by the side of the fire for about an hour; skim off the grease, &c.; ascertain that the seasoning is palatable and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Scotch Broth
Prepare the mutton broth as directed in the preceding recipes, and in addition to its contents, add a pint of green peas. Allow the soup to boil gently until the ingredients are thoroughly done, then mix in with them a pinch of purée of spinach and parsley; taste to ascertain that the seasoning be correct, and serve quite hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Hodge-Podge
Take a good-sized knuckle of veal, cut it into six pieces, sawing the bones through neatly. Place the pieces in a small stock-pot; fill up with common broth or water; boil and skim well; add carrot, onion, turnip, and celery, a few peppercorns, and salt; and having allowed this to boil very gently for about three hours, remove the best pieces of the veal upon a plate to be kept in reserve; strain the broth into a smaller soup-pot, already containing three-quarters of a pound of par-boiled rice; boil together for half an hour; add the pieces of veal kept in reserve; skim off all grease from the soup, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Knuckle of Veal and Rice Soup
Truss and boil a fowl in three pints of light-coloured stock, and when done, cut the fowl up into neat pieces and let these be kept in reserve between two plates to prevent them from becoming dried up. Next add the broth which the fowl has been boiled in, to a dozen white leeks cut into inch lengths, and half a pound of parboiled rice; season with a little mignionette pepper, and salt if necessary, boil together for half an hour and serve hot, with the pieces of fowl in the cocky-leeky.
Note.—This soup is an excellent stomachic, and is capable of curing a severe cold.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Cocky-Leeky
Take a Spanish onion as big as you can procure, peel and split it into quarters, and put these into a small stewpan with a pint of water, a pat of butter, and a little salt; boil gently for half an hour; add a pinch of pepper, and eat the porridge just before retiring to bed. This is also an excellent remedy for colds, and was imparted to me by a jolly, warm-hearted Yorkshire farmer.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Onion Porridge
Shred fine the following ingredients: viz.,—a cucumber, flour lettuces, one onion, and a handful of chervil; place these in a small soup-pot with two pats of butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; simmer over a sow fire for about ten minutes, then add a good spoonful of flour; moisten with three pints of good white veal stock, stir over the fire until the soup boils, and then set it by the side to boil very gently for a quarter of an hour. When about to send the soup to table, make it hot, and stir into it a leason of six yolks of eggs, half a pint of cream, and a dessert-spoonful of sugar.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Bonne Femme Soup
First peel and then slice up a peck of Jerusalem artichokes, four onions, one head of celery; and having placed these in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and three pints of white veal stock, season with nutmeg, pepper, salt, and one ounce of sugar; boil gently for an hour, rub through the tammy or a sieve; remove the purée into a stewpan; stir it over the fire to make it hot; add a pint of cream, and serve with fried crusts, separately.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Palestine Soup
Slice up fine six heads of celery, four onions, and four ounces of raw ham; put these in a stewpan with four ounces of butter and a pint of white stock, or water; simmer very gently over a slow fire until the celery becomes quite soft; then add half a pound of flour, mix together, moisten with a quart of good veal stock, stir the soup over the fire for twenty minutes; rub the purée through a tammy into a dish, and having poured it into a soup-pot, make it hot; add half a pint of cream, and serve with fried crusts, separately.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's White Celery Soup
The process is the same as for making celery soup, No. 163, merely substituting turnips for celery.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Turnip Soup
Cut some boiled macaroni into inch lengths, and put these into a soup-pot containing one or more quarts of good clear consommé; boil gently for five minutes, and serve hot, with two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese separately on a plate.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Macaroni Soup
Set a quart, or more, of good clear stock to boil, and then stir in, as it continues to boil gently by the side of the stove, about six ounces of vermicelli, lightly broken in order to prevent too long filaments hanging over the sides of the spoon as it is carried to the mouth, which is as unpleasant to the consumer as it is doubtless to the beholder. When the soup has boiled for ten minutes, serve hot, with grated Parmesan cheese separately.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Vermicelli Soup
Prepare this as in the foregoing recipe, using for this purpose any kind of Italian pastes, which are to be procured in great perfection at Crosse and Blackwell's warehouse, Soho-square.
Note.—When it happens that any portion of either of the foregoing soups, made of any kind of Italian pastes, —such as macaroni, vermicelli, lasagnes, &c., are left from a previous day's dinner, such may be easily converted into a white soup, by merely adding a leason of four yolks of eggs and half a pint of cream, and a spoonful of grated cheese.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Italian Paste Soup
First, prepare the raviolis in manner following: viz.,—mix half a pound of flour with two raw eggs, a little salt, and a small pat of butter, an this done, roll out the paste as thin as a sheet of paper; and while the paste is being prepared, get ready the following mixture:—two ounces of roasted poultry or game, one ounce of ham, four cleaned anchovies, one ounce of cooked spinach, one shalot, three hard yolks of eggs, two raw yolks, four ounces of hard curd; season lightly with nutmeg and pepper, and one ounce of grated Parmesan cheese,—no salt. Next, with a paste-brush slightly moisten the rolled-out paste before you, and having placed mall round portions of the raviolis mixture at an inch and a half distance from each other, lift the edge of the paste left sufficiently wide for that purpose, upon theses; fasten each round the edge by pressing tightly with the edge of the thumb, and stamp the raviolis out with a small fluted tin cutter, and place them on a floured baking-sheet to dry. Having used up the paste and mixture in this manner, and when the raviolis have become dry over their surface, throw or drop them in boiling water, in order to parboil them for about six minutes; and having drained them upon a hair sieve, add to them some good strong game stock; season with a glass of madeira and a pinch of mignionette pepper, and serve hot : this is one of the very best soups it is possible to send to a good table.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Raviolis Soup
Grease the bottom of a four-quart sized stewpan with an ounce of butter, and place therein five pounds of knuckle of veal and half a pound of raw ham; to these add two carrots, two onions, and one head of celery; moisten with a quart of broth, and set the whole to boil down sharply until reduced to a glaze; then fill up with light broth or water; boil and skim,—and when the stock has boiled for about two hours, strain it off. While this is going on, shred four large lettuces, a handful of spring onions, two cucumbers peeled, and a handful of chervil; and having put these into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, pepper and salt; stir over the fire for ten minutes; add half a pound of flour, mix together, moisten with stock, boil gently on the corner of the fire for half an hour, remove the scum, add half an ounce of sugar and a pint of boiled green peas, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Lord Marcus Hill's Soup
First, cut up very small the following ingredients : viz.,—a carrot, onion, celery, four shalots, bay-leaf, and thyme, and some parsley; fry these in a stewpan with a piece of butter until they are lightly browned; then add six ounces of flour, mix well; moisten with three pints of good stock (or water if for meagre soup); stir over the fire, and when it boils, set it by the side to simmer gently for half an hour : while this part of the preparations is going on, break up a fresh cooked hen lobster; remove the meat from the tail and claws, and cut this into neat square pieces, to be kept in reserve; all the remainder of the lobster and shell, together with a little spawn, must be well bruised in a mortar, and stirred into the soup as it boils; and five minutes after let the whole be rubbed through a tammy, poured into a soup-pot, made hot, and skimmed; seasoned with a glass of sherry, a little Harvey, lemon-juice, anchovy, and cayenne; and poured into the soup-tureen already containing the cut-up lobster, and some small quenelles.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Lobster Soup
Boil half a pound of rice in a quart of white stock, water, or milk, with a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and an ounce of butter; and, while the rice is being very slowly simmered, break up a fresh-boiled crab, separating carefully all the white meat from the claws, &c., which must be kept in reserve; pound all the yellow pith from the body-shell with the boiled rice, and having mixed the whole with a quart of hot stock, rub it through a tammy; pour it into a soup-pot, add the white meat from the claws, season with a small pinch of cayenne, and a little anchovy, and a pint of cream; stir over the fire until quite hot, without allowing it to boil, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Crab Soup
Prepare the sauce for this soup in the same manner as for lobster soup, No. 169. Boil three dozen crayfish with a glass of sherry and a little stock; and when done, strain the liquor to the sauce; pick the tails from the shells, and keep them in reserve; clear all the pith from the body-shells without breaking them, and keep these also in reserve; pound the shells, pith and claws, add this to the sauce, and, having rubbed it through the tammy, pour the soup into a small soup-pot. Fill the body-shells with a little forcemeat seasoned with chopped parsley and shalot, and a little anchovy. and bake them on a baking-sheet in the oven for six minutes. All this being ready, make the soup hot by stirring it over the fire; skim it; season with lobster butter, No. 129, a little cayenne, lemon-juice, anchovy, and a glass of sherry, and pour it into the tureen containing the tails and bodies of the crayfish, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Crayfish Soup
This is made in the same manner as crayfish soup, No. 171, using fifty prawns for the purpose instead of crayfish.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Prawn Soup
Wash and scald half a pound of Frankfort pearl barley, and put this into a stewpan with three pints of good white stock, and simmer it very gently over a slow fire for and hour and a half; remove a third of it into a small soup-pot; rub the remainder through a tammy or sieve, pour it to the whole barley; add half a pint of cream; season with a little salt, stir it over the fire until hot, and serve.
This soup may be prepared also with rice; they are, or at least were, the only soups eaten by the Queen when I had the honour of waiting on Her Majesty.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Victoria Soup
Truss a fowl; put it on the spit, and set it down before the fire to roast; and while the fowl is roasting, wash three-quarters of a pound of rice, and boil it very gently in three pints of white veal stock for about an hour. Remove all the meat from the fowl; chop and pound this in a mortar, with an ounce of butter and a gill of broth; and when it is thoroughly reduced to a smooth pulp, add the rice; pound all together; take this up into a stewpan, moisten with a quart of broth (made with the bones of the fowl and a pound of veal, with carrot, celery, and onion); rub the purée through a tammy, and when this is done, pour the soup into a small soup-pot; stir it over the fire until hot, season with a little pepper and salt, mix in half a pint of cream, and serve with fried crusts on the surface of the soup.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's White Soup à la Reine
Take two lettuces, a little sorrel, a handful of purslain, dandelion, and chervil; shred all these; wash them clean, and having placed them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a little pepper and salt, stew the herbs over a slow fire for ten minutes; add a tablespoonful of flour, and a pint and a half of light veal stock; stir over the fire to boil gently for a quarter of an hour; and then mix in a leason of four yolks of eggs, half a pint of cream, and a dessert-spoonful of sugar, and serve hot.
Note.—This medicinal soup possesses great efficacy in cooling a heated state of the blood.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Spring Herbs Soup
First cut two large onions into small dice, and shred a small cabbage finely, and chop these shreds across to shorten the filaments; fry all this in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, until it assumes a light colour; then mix in two ounces of flour; moisten with three pints of good brown stock; season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and having stirred the soup over the fire till it boils, set it by the side to boil gently for about half an hour; then add a glass of French white wine, some roughly-chopped tarragon and chervil, and pour it into a soup-tureen containing about two ounces of lean ham cut into small shreds, and two dozen small sausages, made as follows: viz., to six ounces of lean beef add four ounces of suet, and having chopped and pounded these together, season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, chopped parsley, and thyme; add one whole egg; mix well together by pounding; roll out the sausage-meat into the form of small round balls, and fry these in a sautapan with a little butter.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Russian Soup, or Tschi
Spread a little butter over the bottom of a four-quart-sized stewpan; upon this lay four onions cut into slices, and then four pounds of gravy-beef cut into thick slices, half a pound of raw ham or lean bacon, an old partridge or pheasant; add two carrots, celery, and parsley roots, a bay-leaf, thyme, and a small clove of garlic, tied up tightly, six cloves and a bit of mace; moisten with a quart of stock, or water; boil, skim well, and when the stock has simmered gently by the side of the fire for two hours, strain it off. After removing all the grease, let it be poured into a soup-pot containing carrots and turnips, scooped in the form of olives, some celery and leeks shred thickly, a pint of garbanças (Spanish peas) previously soaked and boiled, and a dessert-spoonful of Spanish sweet red pepper; boil gently until the vegetables are done; then add the partridge or pheasant, cut into neat pieces, also the ham, and some small pork sausages which have been boiled in the stock.
Note.—This substantial soup, which in Spain is called "Olla Podrida," forms of itself an excellent dinner.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Spanish Soup
Divide two Portugal onions into quarters, and having shred these, fry them in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of salad-oil until the onions acquire a light colour; then add a dessert-spoonful of Spanish sweet red pepper, a little salt, and a quart of good stock, or water; boil together for three minutes, and then add some small slices of fillets of any kind of fish most agreeable or convenient; boil these for a few minutes, and serve the bouillabaisse with the crusts cut from a French roll fried in a little oil or butter.
Note.—For economy sake, or to suit the taste of those who prefer eating the fish separately from the soup, slices of any fish of larger size may be cooked in the soup, and served in a dish, with one of the numerous varieties of sauces contained in this work.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Provençal Soup, or Bouillabaisse
Split, peel and remove the seedy core from six vegetable-marrows, place them in a stewpan with two ounces of butter, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and four lumps of sugar; moisten with a pint of white stock, or water; boil gently for half an hour, rub the purée through a hair sieve or tammy, pour it into a soup-pot, add a pint of good stock, and half a pint of cream, stir it over the fire until quite hot, and serve with fried crusts.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Vegetable Marrow Soup
Scald, peel, and scrape fifty large chestnuts; put these into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, an onion, four lumps of sugar, and a little pepper and salt; and simmer the whole over a slow fire for three-quarters of an hour; then bruise the chestnuts in a mortar; remove the pulp into a stewpan; add a quart of good brown gravy, and having rubbed the purée through a tammy, pour it into a stewpan; make it hot, and serve with fried crusts.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Chestnut Soup
Take one carrot, a turnip, a head of celery, parsnip, and onion, or the white parts of spring onions, and either cut or scoop all these into very small squares or olive shapes; put them into a stewpan with a piece of butter, a spoonful of sugar, and a little pepper and salt, and dry them lightly over a slow fire; then add two lettuces and a little tarragon and chervil shred coarsely; stir these again over the fire for a few minutes, and mix in two ounces of flour; moisten with three pints of good white stock, boil gently for half an hour, incorporate a leason of four yolks, and half a pint of cream, without boiling; ascertain that the seasoning is correct, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's German Soup
Half roast either a fowl, pheasant, duck, partridge, or a rabbit; and put it into a stewpan with four ounces of raw ham, two onions, six ripe red tomatas, a head of celery, a carrot sliced up, four shalots, a bay-leaf and thyme, four cloves, a small bit of mace, and twelve peppercorns; moisten with a pint of stock and a glass of wine, boil down to a glaze; fill up with two quarts of stock, or water; boil gently on the corner of the fire for an hour; skim, and strain the stock into a pan; reserve the fowl, or whatever has been used to make the soup, on a plate; pound all the vegetables in a mortar; remove this pulp into a stewpan; moisten with the stock; rub it through a tammy; pour the purée into a soup-pot; stir it over the fire until it boils; let it throw up by the side for ten minutes; skim it well, and then stir into the soup a paste made of three anchovies, a few capers, and a pinch of cayenne pounded and rubbed through a sieve; and pour the soup into a tureen already containing the fowl cut into small neat pieces.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Italian Soup
Scald, drain, wash and beard four dozen oysters, reserving their liquor in a pan. Put four ounces of butter into a stewpan to barely dissolve over the fire; mix in four ounces of flour; moisten with a pint and a half of good white stock or milk; season with nutmeg and a pinch of cayenne, and a teaspoonful of anchovy; add half a pint of cream; stir over the fire for a quarter of an hour's gentle boiling; and then, having cut the oysters each into halves, pour the hot soup over them in the tureen.
Note—This favourite soup may also be prepared in like manner, and with equal chance of success, by using cockles, muscles, whelks, or collops for the purpose; but it must not be forgotten that great care and cleanliness must be observed in well washing them, in order effectually to remove all sand or grit.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Oyster Soup