Francatelli Recipes for Superior Entrees, Chapter 14
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Francatelli Recipes for Superior Entrees — This page gives you the entire contents of the Fourteenth Chapter: Entrees of Superior Class. from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
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CHAPTER XIV.
No. 595.—OX-PALATES A LA FLORENTINE.
The ox-palates must be soaked in water with a good handful of salt for several hours, being frequently handled to extract the mucus ; they must next be par-boiled in water with salt until the horny cuticle or skin which covers the roof part is easily scraped off. When thoroughly cleansed, they are to be put in a stewpan with carrot, onion, celery, faggot of parsley, six cloves, mace and peppercorns, a clove of garlic, an ounce of salt, and three quarts of water or stock, and boiled very gently for about four hours : when done quite tender, they are to be put in press between two dishes until cold. The best part of the palates should then be stamped out with a circular tin cutter the size of a crown-piece, and put in a stewpan with some of their stock previously boiled down to glaze : the trimmings, together with ham, and the addition of any other meat most convenient, are to be made into Polpetti, No. 354, crumbed, and fried, and dished up alternately with the palates ; place some macaroni à la Milanaise, No. 126, in the centre; pour Italian, or any other brown sauce, round the base of the entrée, and serve.
No. 596.—OX-PALATES CURRIED.
Cleanse and braize the palates, as in the preceding case, and when done, pressed and cold, cut each in square or oblong pieces, and put them into a stewpan, with sufficient curry sauce, No, 85, for the purpose ; make it hot, and serve the curried ox-palates in a border of plain rice.
No. 597.—MUTTON OUTLETS A LA SOUBISE.
Trim a neck of mutton, and divide it into cutlets, according to directions given in No. 555 ; place the cutlets in neat order in a sautapan with an ounce of butter, pepper and salt : fry them brown on both sides alike ; shake an ounce of flour over and about the cutlets ; moisten with a wineglassful of catsup and half a pint of stock or water; stir or rather move the whole over the fire until it boils, and allow it to stew gently for about twenty minutes; the cutlets should then be dished up in a circle, some thick onion or Soubise sauce, No. 58, piled up in the centre, and after all grease and scum have been removed from the sauce, and it has been boiled down to a proper consistency, pour it round the outlets, and serve.
No. 598.—MUTTON CUTLETS A LA VICOMTESSE.
Trim, season, and fry the outlets as in the preceding number ; and when done on both sides, add chopped mushrooms, a little cooked ham, or lean of bacon, parsley and shallots ; season with nutmeg, pepper and salt, the juice of a lemon, and a good pinch of sugar; add a good tablespoonful of flour, moisten with half a pint of stock, and an ounce of glaze ; stir the sauce on the fire until it has boiled for twenty minutes, and has become reduced to a satisfactory consistency or thickness. About four raw yolks of eggs must then be added, and quickly stirred in with the sauce over the fire to bind it ; the cutlets and sauce should now be allowed to cool partially, and then each cutlet must be covered and smoothed over with some of the sauce, and placed flat on a dish to become cold and set firm, so as to enable you to egg and bread-crumb them ; place the cutlets flatly in order in a frying-basket (see Adams' Illustrations); immerse them in hot lard, and having fried them of a light-brown colour, dish them up with a small paper frill on the bone of each cutlet; garnish the centre with any kind of dressed vegetable; pour some sauce around the base, and serve.
No. 599.—MUTTON CUTLETS A LA REFORME.
Having trimmed the cutlets, let them be bread crumbed by first dipping them in beaten eggs, and then bread-crumbing them with equal parts of dried bread-crumbs and finely-chopped lean of cooked ham mixed together : the cutlets must then be fried on both sides, and when thoroughly done, are to be dished up in a circle, the centre garnished with reform chips, No. 103; pour some reform sauce, N o. 28, over the cutlets, and serve.
No. 600.—MUTTON OUTLETS A LA PROVENCALE.
First, chop about six large onions in and put them into a stew pan with a small piece of garlic, two ounces of butter, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and the juice of a lemon ; put the lid on the stewpan, and set it to simmer very gently over a very slow tire, until the onions are quite done, without being fried brown : four yolks of eggs must then be added to bind the onions into a thick kind of paste. Meanwhile your cutlets having been seasoned and fried, or rather sautéed, as it would be most properly termed, cover the one side of each cutlet about half an inch thick with the preparation of onions, &c. ; smooth the surface with a knife; egg it over with a brush; sprinkle fried bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, mixed in equal proportions all over the cutlets; place them in neat order on a buttered sautapan; add a spoonful of gravy by way of moisture under the cutlets ; push them in the oven for ten minutes, and when hot, dish them up in a circle ; garnish their centre with potatoes scooped out in the shape of small balls and fried; pour some good gravy round the base, and serve.
No. 601.—FILLETS OF MUTTON, ROEBUCK FASHION.
Remove the fillet or meaty part wholly from the spinal bones of a loin of mutton; and then, having pared away all the fat and sinew, divide it across in two equal parts ; again subdivide these lengthwise each into four fillets; if properly cut, they will not require trimming. The fillets must be closely larded, and pickled for some hours in a marinade, No. 299 ; and afterwards drained, and placed in rows on butter in a sautapan, with a gill of their clear pickle, and set in a sharp oven to bake for about a quarter of an hour ; when done, they must be salamandered over, (the larding quickly run down over thee fire to cause the fillets to absorb all their gravy,) glazed and dished up in a circle, garnished with French bans, green peas, or fried potatoes, sauced with chêvreuil sauce, No. 29, and served.
No. 602.—FILLETS OF MUTTON A LA JARDINIERE.
These are prepared as indicated in the preceding number, and when dished up, should be garnished with a Jardinière in the centre, and some brown sauce incorporated with the gravy in which the fillets have been braized (and freed from grease) should be poured round the fillets.
No. 603.—ESCALOPES OF MUTTON WITH FINE-HEBBS.
The chump-end of a loin of mutton may be turned to account for this purpose, by first cutting off all the meat in thin slices, and then dividing these into neatly trimmed collops, and placing them in rows in a sautapan containing an ounce of dissolved butter ; season with pepper and salt, fry them quickly over a brisk fire until browned on both sides, then add a tablespoonful of flour, some chopped mushrooms, parsley and shallot, thee juice of half a lemon, a spoonful of catsup, and a gill of stock or water; stir altogether over the fire for five minutes; pile up the escalopes in the centre of the dish; garnish round with potato croquets or sippets of toasted bread, and serve.
No. 604.—VEAL OUTLETS A LA FINANCIERE.
About six bones of the best end of a neck of veal will be required for this purpose ; the chine-bone must first be removed with a small saw, and also the upper part of the cutlet or rib-bones, leaving the bones intended to form the cutlets only about three inches long : the cutlets must then be divided, trimmed, and closely larded. Next, garnish the bottom of a fricandeau-pan (see Adams' Illustrations) with sliced carrot, onion, celery, a garnished faggot of parsley, and an onion stuck with six cloves ; place the larded cutlets on this bed of vegetables, with their bones all pointing to the centre of the pan; moisten with stock or water, just enough to reach up to the edge of the larding ; cover with a buttered round of paper ; set the pan on the fire to boil, and then push it in the oven to braise for about an hour and a half, basting the cutlets frequently with their own liquor; and when they are nearly done, salamander (see Adams’ Illustrations) the larding, glaze it, and dish up the cutlets in the reversed position—that is, with the bones under, thus showing the larded part uppermost: use the strained stock from the cutlets to make the sauce for the Financière, No. 104; garnish and sauce the entrée.
No. 605.—VEAL CUTLETS A LA MAINTENON.
These may be cut either from the neck, or from a pound or more of what is termed veal cutlet; the cutlets must be seasoned and fried brown on both sides, and finished with fine-herbs, &c., in exactly the same manner as cutlets a la Vicomtesse, No. 598, with this exception, that instead of bread-crumbing them, they are to be encased in papers, as follows: viz.,—take as many sheets of writing-paper as you have prepared outlets, and by cutting off the outer angles with scissors, give them something of a heart-shape, remembering that they must he sufficiently large to enfold the cutlets ; oil these papers on both sides; place a cutlet masked with a sufficiency of its sauce so as entirely to cover it all over inside the paper, overlapping it with the upper half, and then neatly and tightly fold or rather twist in the edges of the paper in order effectually to prevent the sauce from escaping while the cutlet is being broiled. About a quarter of an hour before sending to table, place the cutlets on a baking-sheet slightly oiled, push them in a rather sharp oven to remain there until their envelopes become lightly browned, and the cutlets are thoroughly warned ; dish them up with fried parsley in the centre, and serve. These cutlets may also be grilled.
No. 606.—VEAL OUTLETS A LA RUSSE.
These cutlets must first be fried on both sides, each cutlet is to be covered on one side only with a preparation made with horseradish, &c., see No. 92, made with three sticks of horseradish instead of one as therein stated, the preparation to be laid on half an inch thick, egged over and crumbed with a mixture of grated cheese and fried bread-crumbs : the cutlets are to be placed in a circular row on a buttered sautapan, with a couple of spoonfuls of gravy under them, pushed in a sharp oven for ten minutes to make them perfectly hot ; dish them up, garnish the centre with any kind of dressed vegetable ; pour some thin tomata sauce round the base of the entrée, and serve.
No. 607.—SWEETBREADS A LA TOULOUSE.
Soak the sweetbreads in water for a couple of hours to extract all the blood; parboil them for five minutes just to set them firm, and after being cooled in water, trim and lard them closely ; place them in a deep sautapan on a thin bed of sliced carrot, onion, celery ; moisten with just enough stock to reach up to the commencement of the larding, push them in a rather sharp oven to braize for about twenty-minutes, basting them frequently with their own liquor; and when done, salamandered, and glazed, dish them up against a pile of four quenelles, placed in an angular form by forming the angle with three, and placing the fourth in their centre; garish round the sweetbreads with Toulouse ragout, No. 125, and serve.
No. 608.—SWEETBBEADS A LA VILLEROI.
Parboil the sweetbreads for ten minutes, with a little salt in the water, and when done and cooled, cut them in slices a quarter of an inch thick; trim these neatly without waste; dip each with a fork in some stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce, No. 17, and place them in rows on a baking-sheet upon rough ice to become firmly set ; they must now be egged, crumbed, placed in order in a frying-basket, fried in hot lard, of a light-brown colour, dished up in a circular row, the centre garnished with any kind of dressed vegetable, some thin sauce poured round the base; then send to table.
No. 609.—TENDONS OF VEAL AND SPINACH.
That part of the calf which is called tendons, consists, in point of fact, of the gristly portion of the breast-bone which has not yet become hardened into bone; this is situated towards the thick edge of the breast of veal. After having first removed the meat from the tendons, cut them straight along the end of the rib-bones, leaving the flap of meat on to the ribs : next, slice off such portion of the breast-bone as may have become formed into bone, divide the tendon or gristle part into square pieces the size of a cutlet; place these in a stewpan on a bed of carrots, onions, turnips, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, six cloves, a few peppercorns, and a little salt; moisten with sufficient stock or water to let them swim ; put the lid on, and set them to braize very gently on a slow fire for about four hours. When the tendons are done through, which will be perceptible by ascertaining that their gristle has become almost transparent and comparatively soft to the probe of a fork, they must be carefully removed with a small skimmer, one by one, and being placed between two earthen dishes, set in the larder to become partially cold, in order that they may be neatly trimmed, placed in a sautapan with their own liquor (previously freed from grease, and boiled down to glaze). Make them hot, roll them in their glaze; dish them up in a circular row; garnish the centre with dressed spinach; pour the remainder of their glaze round the base, and serve.
Note.—Tendons of veal may also be served with stewed peas, or any other vegetable garnish.
No. 610.—CURRIED TENDONS OF VEAL.
Braize the tendons as directed in the preceding case, and use their stock to make some curry sauce, No. 85 ; put the tendons in this to simmer for awhile ; dish them up with fried bacon in between each tendon ; pour the sauce over the entrée, and serve plain boiled rice in a dish separately.
No. 611.—LAMB CUTLETS A LA PRINCESSE.
Trim and fry the outlets in the usual manner ; and when become partially cold, dip each cutlet up to the bone, in some stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce strongly flavoured with mushrooms ; each cutlet as it is dipped to be afterwards placed flat on a baking-sheet upon rough ice to set the sauce quite firm on the cutlets; they are then to be egged, crumbed, fried in hot lard, and being dished up, are to be garnished with a purée of green asparagus, or asparagus peas, and some suprême or any other white sauce poured round the base.
No. 612.—LAMB CUTLETS A LA DUCHESSE.
These are prepared in the first instance as in the preceding case, and are to be dipped in D’uxelles sauce, No. 75, and when this has become firmly set upon them, let them be egged, crumbed, fried, and dished up on a vegetable border as represented in the woodcut; the centre to be garnished with a purée of green peas, or a Jardinière, and some supreme sauce poured round the base.
No. 613.—LAMB'S SWEETBREADS LARDED.
These are prepared and served in the manner described in No. 607, bearing in mind that being smaller, ten minutes’ braizing will suffice to do them.
No. 614.—LAMBʼS SWEETBREADS SCOLLOPED.
First blanch—that is, parboil the lamb’s breads for five minutes to set them firm ; drain and put them on a plate until cold, slice them in small scollops, fry them with an ounce of butter in a sautapan, season with nutmeg and salt, the juice of half a lemon ; shake in a tablespoonful of flour, and some sliced button mushrooms, moisten with a gill of cream, move the whole gently over the fire to simmer for a few minutes, then add two raw yolks of eggs ; mix well and gently, and use this to fill a vol-au-vent, rice border, or else some small scollop-shells or paper cases ; the latter are to be covered over with fried bread-crumbs, and after being made hot in the oven, are to be salamandered unless already sufficiently coloured.
No. 615.—SUPREME OF FOWL A LA ROYALE.
Trim the fillets of two fowls—which, by making use of the reversed skins of the large fillets to envelope the minion or smaller ones, will produce eight fillets; these are to be placed in a sautapan in clarified butter, seasoned with a little salt, and covered with a round of buttered paper ; and about ten minutes before dinner-time, are to be placed on the fire just the time required to set them,—that is, as soon as the under part of the fillets begins to whiten, they must be removed from the fire, and being turned, and replaced on the ire again. must—as soon as they are also whitened on that side, be drained, trimmed and dished up on a border of vegetables, No. 523 (already turned out on its dish), a ring of truffle or tongue placed on each fillet, the centre of the entrée filled with a Macédoine of vegetables, No. 101, and some suprême poured round the base.
No. 616.—FILLETS OF FOWLS WITH ASPARAGUS PEAS.
Trim the fillets of fowls, and finish them as in the preceding case ; and when done, roll them in a little suprême sauce ; dish them up alternately with similar pieces of red tongue ; fill the centre of the entrée with dressed asparagus peas; pour some of the sauce round the base, and serve.
No. 617.—ESCALOPES OF FOWL AND CUCUMBER.
Remove the fillets from two fowls, simmer them in a little clarified butter and salt, until they become white and are done through ; they must then be drained, cut into collops, put into some ready-prepared cucumber ragoût, No. 109, made hot, and piled up in the centre of the dish, garnished round with fleurons or potato croquiets, and served.
No. 618.—CHICKEN OUTLETS A LA DAUPHINE.
These are made with the legs of fowls—the fillets of which have been used for preparing a suprême; and thus, that entrée becomes less expensive. The legs being cut from the carcasses of the fowls, must be freed from the thigh-bone, leaving the leg—or what is termed the drumstick-bone—in its place ; these legs of fowls must next be gently braized in some seasoned stock until quite tender, and then taken up, placed in a press between two dishes, and when quite cold, trimmed in the form of cutlets, dipped in some reduced Allemande sauce, and placed on a baking-sheet upon rough ice to become set firm ; they must then be egged, crumbed, fried in hot lard, and when drained and dished up, garnished with any description of dressed vegetable, sauced round with Béchamel , and served.
No. 619.—LEGS OF FOWL A LA WELLINGTON.
In this case also the legs of fowls whose fillets have already been used will serve the purpose : the legs, wings, and back-bones should be separated and neatly trimmed, placed in an deep sautapan with two table spoonfuls of salad oil, a sprig of thyme one bay-leaf, a clove of garlic, a little pepper and salt. Fry the members of fowls ever at sharp fire until they are dune of a light-brown colour, and then, after removing the bay-leaf and thyme, shake in twin tablespoonfuls of flour, one of Crosse and Blackwell's Indian Chutnee ; stir together, moisten with half a pint of good gravy, simmer the whole over the fire for ten minutes, and serve.
No.620.—FRICASSÉE OF CHICKENS A LA HAVELOCK.
A couple of chickens are required for this dish ; when they have been drawn and singed, remove the legs end wings, and then, with the point of a knife, slit the skin of the breast, spread it off the fillets, and remove these with the pinion-bone left on them. Each fillet must be trimmed, then closely larded, and placed in a small sautapan spread with butter, and moistened with a little good stock; the four minion fillets should be decorated with tongue, turned round in a ring, and set in clarified butter in another small saucepan :—the legs, wings, and the four halves of the back-bones must be put in a stewpan with sliced onion, carrot, celery, a garnished faggot of parsley, a bit of mace, peppercorns and salt. Moisten with a quart of good stock; boil gently for twenty minutes; strain this stock into a stew pan containing two ounces of butter and the same of flour well kneaded together, and a handful of peelings of clean mushrooms ; stir this sauce over the fire to boil for twenty minutes; then add a leason of four yolks of eggs and half a gill of cream, a little nutmeg and lemon juice, and a good pinch of sugar ; stir the sauce again over the fire merely to set the leason, without allowing it to boil ; and strain it through a pointed tin strainer (see Adams’ Illustrations), on to the trimmed legs, &c., of the chickens, already contained in a small stew pan ; add a few button mushrooms, truffles, and cocks’ combs. About twenty minutes before dinner-time, warm the fricassee without boiling; neatly arrange the members in a pile on the dish; dispose the larded fillets and also the small decorated fillets (previously braized and glazed) in symmetrical order on the top of the entrée, garnish with groups of the truffles, mushrooms, and cocks’ combs, as exemplified in the annexed woodcut, and serve.
No. 621.—CHICKENS A LA INKERMANN.
Cut up two chickens into members or joints,—that is, divide the legs, wings, and fillets with the pinion-bones left on, the breasts and back-bones having been divided each in two pieces ; let these be trimmed, removing the thigh-bones from the legs; fry the whole in a deep sautapan with half a gill of oil, a bay-leaf and thyme, a clove of garlic, a pinch of cayenne and salt; and when done of a light·brown colour, remove the bay-leaf and thyme, pour off the oil, add four ounces of Crosse and Blackwell’s conserve of tomatas, an ounce of glaze, a spoonful of Captain White’s curry paste, and two glasses of white wine ; simmer all together over the fire for ten minutes; dish up in a pile, garnish with fried eggs and small pieces of ham; pour the sauce over the entrée, and serve.
No. 622.—CHICKENS A LA TARTARE.
Draw, singe, trim, and split the chickens into halves ; season with pepper and salt, and fry them in a sautapan with butter until done on both sides ; they must be put in press between two dishes until half cold,—when they are to be egged and crumbed all over, sprinkled with clarified butter, and crumbed over again. About twenty minutes before dinner-time, broil the halves of chicken over a clear fire, of a light-golden brown, place them on a dish containing cold Tartar sauce, No. 38; garnish round with pickles, and serve.
Note.—Al1 kinds of meats or fish prepared as above are excellent when served as herein indicated.
No. 623.—GRILLED FOWL WITH PUREE OF MUSHROOMS.
Remove the legs, or rather the feet, from a fowl; force the drumsticks inside, and split it down the back : spread it open; season with pepper and salt; put it in a covered pan with two ounces of butter, and set it to fry slowly over a moderate heat ; and when done through, and of a light-brown colour, let it be glazed and placed on some purée of mushrooms, and served.
The purée of mushrooms is prepared as follows: viz.,—chop fine a good handful of clean mushrooms, and put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon ; stir this over the fire for five minutes, and then add the crumb of a French roll soaked in milk and a gill of cream; stir all together over the fire to boil for ten minutes and then rub the purée through a tammy or sieve, and put it in a small stewpan for use.
No. 624.—BOILED FOWLS A LA CARDINAL.
Remove all the breast-bone from two chickens; stuff them with chicken or veal forcemeat, No. 185 ; truss them as for boiling ; envelope them in buttered papers tied up with string; boil them for about twenty-five minutes, more or less, according to their size ; and when done, remove the strings, dish them up, garnish with decorated quenelles and truffles, pour some cardinal sauce, No. 62, over the chickens, and serve.
No. 625.—CHICKENS OR FOWLS A LA ROMAINE.
Truss two small chickens as for boiling, and put them in a stewpan with a clove of garlic, bay-leaf and thyme, half a gill of salad-oil, a pinch of cayenne and salt ; cover the stewpan, and set it over a slow fire to simmer gently, taking care to turn the chickens over frequently, so as to colour them equally of a light-brown all over alike; and when done, remove the bay-leaf and thyme ; pour off the oil ; add some conserve of tomatas, a piece of glaze, a glass of madeira, some truffles and the juice of a lemon; simmer altogether over the fire for ten minutes; dish up the chickens with the truffles and sauce, and serve dressed macaroni separately.
No. 626.—BOUDINS OF PHEASANT A LA RICHELIEU.
Pare off all the flesh from a pheasant, and use it to prepare some forcemeat as described in No. 185, and finish it by incorporating therewith about two tablespoonfuls of brown purée of onions ; use the carcass of the pheasant to prepare some Richelieu sauce as shown in No. 63. Roll out the forcemeat with flour on the table in the form of oval cutlets, measuring about two and a half inches long by one and a half wide and a quarter of an inch thick; and as you shape these boudins, drop them carefully into some nearly boiling water with salt,—remembering that they must not boil, as that would spoil them in a measure :—when done, drain the boudins on a cloth until cold, and then after egging them over, bread-crumb and fry them in clarified butter in a sautapan ; and when done, and dished up, sauce them with the Richelieu sauce prepared as indicated above.
No. 627.—BOUDINS OF FOWL A LA LUCULLUS.
With all the meaty part of a fowl, prepare some forcemeat as directed in No. 185; and when finished, incorporate therewith two spoonfuls of purée of mushrooms, and use this to form some quenelles with tablespoons, filling the centre of each quenelle with small pellets of purée of truffles ; the quenelles are to be poached in the usual way in boiling water, and when done, are to be drained, and dished up in a crôustade as represented in the annexed woodcut ; some Allemande sauce is to be poured over the quenelles, and a border of truffles placed Ronald the base.
628.—BOUDINS OF GROUSE A LA STANLEY.
Prepare some forcemeat with a couple of grouse as directed in No. 185, reserving the carcasses to make some salmis sauce, No. 68. Finish the forcemeat by incorporating therewith two spoonfuls of stiffly-reduced salmis sauce; form the boudins with two tablespoons introducing small pellets of croquet preparation, No. 315, composed of truffle, tongue, and mushrooms, seasoned with chopped chives ; and when the boudins have been poached, drained, and become cold, they are to be masked over with some reduced salmis sauce finished with three yolks of eggs, egged, crumbed, and fried in hot lard; they are then to be dished up with a ragoût composed of artichoke bottoms, and the remainder of the salmis sauce is to be poured round the base.
No. 629.—QUENELLES OF FOWL A LA SUPREME.
Prepare some chicken forcemeat with the flesh of a fowl, as indicated in No. 185, and finish it by incorporting therewith two spoonfuls of good Allemande sauce, No. 17 : with two tablespoons form this forcemeat into quenelles, and poach them in the ordinary way; when done, dish them up in a circle; pour some suprême sauce, No. 15, over and round them, and garnish the centre with green peas, or asparagus peas, Macédoine, truffles, mushrooms, &c.
No. 630.—PHEASANT A LA ST. GEORGE.
Divide a pheasant into members or joints, making two fillets with the pinion-bone left on ; the legs to be divided, making drumstick and thigh-joints; the back and breast to be cut each in two pieces. Fry these in a stewpan with a little oil, garlic, thyme, bay-leaf, chopped mushrooms, truffles, parsley, pepper and salt, over a sharp fire until half done; then add half a gill of any kind of thick sauce, and the juice of half a lemon boil the whole quickly over the fire for five minutes to reduce the sauce, tossing or moving the pan the whole time to prevent the pheasant from attaching and burning. You then remove the thyme and bay-leaf ; take up the joints of pheasant on to a flat dish; add three yolks of eggs to the sauce; stir this over the fire quickly so as to set the sauce smoothly, and use it to mask the joints evenly with a covering of it about the thickness of a penny-piece, and set them to become cold. A quarter of an hour before dinner-time, dip each joint of pheasant separately in some frying batter, No. 290, and fry them in very hot lard, of a light colour, and perfectly crisp ; dish them up ; garnish with tomatas au gratin; pour some truffle sauce round the base, and serve.
No. 631.—PHEASANT A LA GUDEWIFE.
Truss a pheasant as for boiling, and put it in a stewpan with half a pound of ham cut in square pieces; fry together over a moderate fire, and when the pheasant is browned all over, add four sliced Spanish onions, pepper and salt, and a spoonful of Chutnee; put the lid on, and set the whole to simmer gently for about three-quarters of an hour, by which time the pheasant will be done and the onions reduced to a pulp ; place the pheasant on its dish ; stir the onions on the fire to give the sauce some consistency by further reduction if needed, and then pour it over the pheasant, and serve.
No. 632.—SALMIS OF PHEASANT.
Roast off a pheasant, and when done, set it to become partially cold; it must then be cut up in members or joints, and divested of its skin, neatly trimmed, and dished up; having used the trimmings to make some salmis sauce, No. 68, add either mushrooms or truffles, and pour it hot over the joints of pheasants.
Note.—Salmis of all kinds of game are prepared alike, the trimmings being used for making the sauce.
No. 633.—PARTRIDGES A LA BEARNAISE.
Truss the partridges as for boiling; fry them in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, a clove of garlic, and a little salt ; and when browned, add enough conserve of tomatas (Crosse and Blackwellʼs) to furnish sufficient sauce for the dish, an ounce of glaze, two glasses of white wine, and a good teaspoonful of sweet red Spanish pepper ; simmer the whole together for ten minutes, and serve. Olives may he added.
Note.—All kinds of game are excellent when dressed as above.
No. 634.—STEWED PARTRIDGES, CELERY SAUCE.
Truss and boil the cartridges in some stock or water, seasoned with the usual complement of carrot, onion, &c., a little pepper and salt; use their liquor to prepare some celery sauce, No. 119 ; and when about to send to table, make the partridges hot in a little of their liquor reserved for the purpose ; dish them up with the purée of celery poured over them, and garnished round with potato croquets.
Note.—Stewed pheasants, grouse, or rabbits may also be served as indicated above; and Soubise or onion sauce would be equally suitable for the purpose.
No. 635.—GROUSE CUTLETS A LA GLENGARRY.
Young birds only are fit for this purpose ; they must be drawn, the legs cut off, the drumsticks tucked inside, singed, and split in halves : they must then be seasoned with pepper and salt, and fried in a saucepan with a piece of butter until browned on both sides ; shake in a little flour, add a piece of glaze, and a spoonful of Oude sauce ; simmer together over the fire for ten minutes, and serve.
Note.—All kinds of young game form a most delicious dish when cooked in this unpretending way.
No. 636.—FILLETS OF PARTRIDGES A LA THACKERAY
Take out the fillets of two partridges ; and, having moved the thin skin which covers them, let them be simmered in a sautapan with a little butter, pepper and salt, until they are become set firm without being quite done thorough ; they are then to be masked all over on both sides with DʼUxelles sauce, No 75, and as soon as the sauce has become set quite firm on the fillets, the should be egged and crumbed, and placed carefully in a wire frying-basket, to be fried in hot lard : as soon a they have acquired a light-brown colour, dish them up in a circle ; garnish with small quenelles made with the meat from the legs of the partridges, No. 185, and pour round the base of the entrée some salmis sauce, No 68 made from the carcasses.
Note.—The fillets of chickens, pigeons, or any kind of game may be advantageously dressed in the same way.
No. 637.—FRICASSEE OF RABBIT.
Skin, draw, wash and wipe thoroughly clean a young rabbit in good condition ; and, having cut it into joints, place these in a stewpan with two ounces of butter pepper and salt; set this on the fire to simmer, tossing it frequently to prevent the rabbit from acquiring any colour ; and as soon as the pieces are become set firm, shake in two ounces of flour, two dozen peeled button onions, and as many mushrooms; toss all together ; moisten with a glass of white wine, and a good half pint of stock or water ; stir the fricassee over the fire till it boils, and set it by the side to continue gently simmering for about half an hour; and then, after removing the skin and grease, boil down the sauce if necessary to give it consistency ; mix in a leason of three yolks of eggs and half a gill of cream ; season with a little nutmeg, a pinch of sugar, a few grains of cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon ; be careful while setting the lesson in the sauce over the fire that it does not boil, for that would cause it to curdle and decompose, and thus in a great measure spoil the dish.
No. 638.—RABBIT A LA TARTARE.
Having cleansed the rabbit, split the under part of the vent, run the knife through the sinews under the thighs, open the breast so as to lay the rabbit out flat, and use two small wooden skewers to secure its shape; it must then be lightly fried in a saucepan with butter, pepper and salt, until three parts done ; and as soon as become partially cold, it is to be egged and crumbed, sprinkled over with clarified butter, and crumbed again. Twenty minutes before sending to table push the rabbit in a sharp oven to colour it of a golden brown, and when done through, dish it up on some Tartare sauce, No. 38 garnish round with Piccalilla, and serve.
No. 639.—BOILED RABBIT AND BACON.
When rabbits are intended to be boiled, they should be first well washed, and then soaked in milk and water for a couple of hours ; indeed, hares, leverets, and rabbits when treated in this way for roasting are considerably improved by being thus rendered more juicy and tender. Truss the rabbit with two wooden skewers and string, so as to secure it in shape, boil it in just water enough to cover it; season with carrot, onion, garnished faggot of parsley, a bit of mace, a few peppercorns, and a little salt : about three-quarters to an hour will suffice to cook an ordinary-sized rabbit; and when done and dished up, pour either onion sauce or celery sauce, No. 119, over it ; garnish it round with small strippets of fried bacon, and serve.
No. 640.—RABBITS WITH FINE-HERBS.
Cut up the rabbit into joints by cutting off the legs and shoulders; divide the back into four or five equal parts, and split the head into halves ; fry all these in a sautapan with butter until they are browned all over ; shake in a good tablespoonful of flour, some chopped mushrooms, parsley, and shallots ; season with pepper and salt, the juice of half a lemon, a glass of sherry and a gill of good gravy : toss the whole together over the fire to simmer gently for ten minutes, and serve.
No 641.—RABBIT FRIED IN BATTER.
Cut up a rabbit into joints, and put them in a basin with a sliced onion, some sprigs of parsley, thyme and bay-leaf, a little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of oil, and a tablespoonful of Crosse and Blackwell’s ravigotte vinegar ; allow the pieces of rabbit to remain in this seasoning for three hours, tossing it over occasionally so as to admit of its becoming thoroughly impregnated with its aroma. A quarter of an hour before dinner-time, dip each piece or rabbit in some frying batter, No. 290, and drop each successively into some very hot lard, to be fried of a light colour; and when the pieces are become crisp, drain and dish them up with fried parsley, and serve maître-d'hôtel sauce, No. 32, separately.
No. 642.—CURRIED RABBIT AND RICE.
Cut a rabbit into joints, and fry them in a stew pan with half a pound of streaky bacon cut in square pieces ; the bacon should be fried first, then add the rabbit, and when all is browned, add six onions sliced very thin, and two sour apples peeled and sliced; season with a clove of garlic and salt, and a large tablespoonful of Captain Whiteʼs curry paste; put the lid on and set the whole to stew very gently over a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour : when the rabbit is done quite tender, remove the pieces into another stewpan ; shake in a little flour, add a piece of glaze and a gill of stock or water to the onions, &c., and stir the sauce over the fire for ten minutes; rub it through a tammy or hair sieve; pour it to the pieces of rabbits, warm altogether; dish up neatly, and serve separately.
No. 643.—WOODCOCKS A LA CHASSEUR.
Truss and roast the woodcocks before a brisk fire for about fifteen minutes, and then take them up on the dish ; cut the birds in the usual manner, by making two fillets with the pinions left on, two legs, the breast, and the back; the skin must be left on, and the members should be but slightly trimmed. Remove the gizzards from the trail (which consists of the whole of the inside of the woodcocks), and put it in a mortar with a small pat of butter, a small piece of shallot, pepper and salt; pound altogether; rub it through a sieve on to a plate, and use this to spread on the upper side only of some heart-shaped crôutons or pieces of fried bread, and set them aside for use. Put the trimmings in a stewpan with half a pint of wine, four chopped shalots, a small sprig of thyme, an ounce of glaze, a wineglassful of mushroom catsup, and the juice of half a lemon ; boil this for ten minutes ; strain it on to the pieces of woodcocks; warm them without boiling; dish up; place the crôutons round the entrée ; pour the sauce over it, and serve. The crôutons should of course be made hot, by pushing them in the oven for three minutes.
Note.—Snipes are dressed in the same way.
No. 644.—SNIPES A LA BONNE-BOUCHE.
Roast off four snipes under-done, and set them aside on a dish. Prepare a small quantity of forcemeat, No. 188, using about six ounces of fowls’ livers for the purpose ; and when ready, roll out one-half of the forcemeat with flour on the table in the form of a thick rope, and twirl this on the bottom of the dish in a complete circle ; flatten it all round slightly with the thumb to give it a level surface ; and then, after splitting the snipes, and covering the inside part of each with a coating of the forcemeat a quarter of an inch thick, dish them up in a row on the circular border of forcemeat ; cover the whole surface with a thin coating of the forcemeat ; smooth it over with a knife dipped in hot water ; place a round of buttered paper on the top ; push the entrée in a brisk oven for about twenty-five minutes to bake it and when done through, absorb any grease which may have oozed out with a napkin; pour some périgueux or truffle sauce over the snipes and nerve.
No. 645.—WlLD FGWL A LA CHASSEUR.
This dish in eaten in greatest perfection, when prepared—or rather finished—on the dinner-table. Let the wild fowl—of whichever kind it may consist—be roasted rather under-done before a brisk clear fire, be frequently basted with butter while roasting; and as soon as done, let it be sent to table with rich brown gravy : on the dinner-table—close to the carver—should be placed a deep silver dish on a spirit-of-wine-burner, containing two glasses of port wine, one of cavice sauce, the juice of lemon, a sprinkle of salt, and a pinch of cayenne ; cut up the wild fowl, place the slices and joints in this, add the gravy, stir altogether, and hand round for the guests to help themselves.
No. 646.—WILD FOWL, AMERICAN FASHION.
These are prepared and finished as directed in the foregoing case, with the addition of some black-currant jelly.
No. 647.—CIVET OF LEVERET.
Cut up a leveret into joints, and put them on a plate ; divide half a pound of streaky bacon (previously trimmed and soaked in water) into inch-square pieces, and having fried these in a stewpan, add the pieces of leveret and fry them brown; shake in four ounces of flour ; moisten with a battle of French red wine, at 14s. per dozen ; add half a pint of button onions, and an equal quantity of mushrooms, a garnished faggot of parsley, pepper, and salt ; stir the civet on the fire till it boils, and set it by the side to continue gently simmering until the pieces of leveret are tender ; remove the scum ; dish up the civet ; reduce the sauce if necessary ; pour it over the entrée, and serve.
No. 648.—JUGGED HARE.
Parboil a pound of streaky bacon for twenty minutes to extract the salt; cut it into inch squares ; fry these in a stewpan, then add a hare cut into joints; fry these brown, shake in six ounces of flour, moisten with a quart of stock or water, two glasses of port wine, and a like quantity of catsup; add eight rather small onions, a pound of the red part of carrots cut into pieces of about an inch square and neatly shaped, half a pound of mushrooms, a garnished faggot of parsley, pepper and salt ; stir altogether over the fire till it boils, and then set it by the side to simmer until the pieces of hare are tender ; remove the scum, pour off the sauce into another stewpan to be further reduced by boiling if needed, to give it sufficient consistency, and strain it back to the jugged hare. Just before sending to table, add a glass of port wine and four ounces of currant jelly ; make hot, and serve.
No. 649.—BARON OF HARE, GERMAN FASHION.
A baron of hare consists of the hind-quarters and loins, cut across just close to the shoulder-blades. This, after removing the thin pellicle or skin which covers the loins and the upper part of the thighs, should be closely larded, and placed in a deep sautapan with a pint of sour cream and a glass of vinegar, and seasoned with a little salt; it should then be put in the oven to bake for about three-quarters of an hour, taking care to baste it frequently with the cream, &c.; and when done tender, pass the red-hot salamander over the larding to render it crisp. Having dished up the baron of hare, pour two glasses of red French wine into the pan; add a large tablespoonful of red·currant jelly ; stir all together over the fire for five minutes; strain it over the hare, and serve.
No. 650.—WILD FOWL A LA BIGARRADE.
Peel two oranges with a sharp knife, so as to remove the thin peel without andy pith ; shred this very finely, and parboil it in a little water for two minutes: drain it dry and put it in a small bainmarie stewpan with the strained juice of the two oranges, an ounce of good glaze, or the equivalent in good brown gravy, and a pinch of cayenne ; boil together for two minutes, and serve this sauce in a sauce-boat with roast wild fowl or ducklings : a glass of port wine may be added for wild fowl.
No. 651.—CAPILOTADA OF FOWL, &c.
Any remains of dressed poultry, game, or wild fowl serve for this purpose. They should he cut neatly in members or joints without waste, seasoned with peeper and salt, with a tablespoon of flour shaken all over them, and put aside on a plate; chop fine about two tablespoonfuls of Piccalilla (Crosse and Blackwell's) and four shalots, and put these in a stewpan with a glass of mushroom catsup, and an equal quantity of the liquor from the Piccalilla ; boil down until reduced to half the original quantity, then add the pices of fowl. or whatever the meat may consist of, a glass of sherry, and a gill of gravy ; boil gently for a quarter of an hour, and serve. Olives, button mushrooms, or truffles, may be added.
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Francatelli's Chapter XIV: Entrees of Superior Class.
CHAPTER XIV.
ENTREES OF SUPERIOR CLASS.
The ox-palates must be soaked in water with a good handful of salt for several hours, being frequently handled to extract the mucus ; they must next be par-boiled in water with salt until the horny cuticle or skin which covers the roof part is easily scraped off. When thoroughly cleansed, they are to be put in a stewpan with carrot, onion, celery, faggot of parsley, six cloves, mace and peppercorns, a clove of garlic, an ounce of salt, and three quarts of water or stock, and boiled very gently for about four hours : when done quite tender, they are to be put in press between two dishes until cold. The best part of the palates should then be stamped out with a circular tin cutter the size of a crown-piece, and put in a stewpan with some of their stock previously boiled down to glaze : the trimmings, together with ham, and the addition of any other meat most convenient, are to be made into Polpetti, No. 354, crumbed, and fried, and dished up alternately with the palates ; place some macaroni à la Milanaise, No. 126, in the centre; pour Italian, or any other brown sauce, round the base of the entrée, and serve.
Cleanse and braize the palates, as in the preceding case, and when done, pressed and cold, cut each in square or oblong pieces, and put them into a stewpan, with sufficient curry sauce, No, 85, for the purpose ; make it hot, and serve the curried ox-palates in a border of plain rice.
Trim a neck of mutton, and divide it into cutlets, according to directions given in No. 555 ; place the cutlets in neat order in a sautapan with an ounce of butter, pepper and salt : fry them brown on both sides alike ; shake an ounce of flour over and about the cutlets ; moisten with a wineglassful of catsup and half a pint of stock or water; stir or rather move the whole over the fire until it boils, and allow it to stew gently for about twenty minutes; the cutlets should then be dished up in a circle, some thick onion or Soubise sauce, No. 58, piled up in the centre, and after all grease and scum have been removed from the sauce, and it has been boiled down to a proper consistency, pour it round the outlets, and serve.
Trim, season, and fry the outlets as in the preceding number ; and when done on both sides, add chopped mushrooms, a little cooked ham, or lean of bacon, parsley and shallots ; season with nutmeg, pepper and salt, the juice of a lemon, and a good pinch of sugar; add a good tablespoonful of flour, moisten with half a pint of stock, and an ounce of glaze ; stir the sauce on the fire until it has boiled for twenty minutes, and has become reduced to a satisfactory consistency or thickness. About four raw yolks of eggs must then be added, and quickly stirred in with the sauce over the fire to bind it ; the cutlets and sauce should now be allowed to cool partially, and then each cutlet must be covered and smoothed over with some of the sauce, and placed flat on a dish to become cold and set firm, so as to enable you to egg and bread-crumb them ; place the cutlets flatly in order in a frying-basket (see Adams' Illustrations); immerse them in hot lard, and having fried them of a light-brown colour, dish them up with a small paper frill on the bone of each cutlet; garnish the centre with any kind of dressed vegetable; pour some sauce around the base, and serve.
Having trimmed the cutlets, let them be bread crumbed by first dipping them in beaten eggs, and then bread-crumbing them with equal parts of dried bread-crumbs and finely-chopped lean of cooked ham mixed together : the cutlets must then be fried on both sides, and when thoroughly done, are to be dished up in a circle, the centre garnished with reform chips, No. 103; pour some reform sauce, N o. 28, over the cutlets, and serve.
First, chop about six large onions in and put them into a stew pan with a small piece of garlic, two ounces of butter, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and the juice of a lemon ; put the lid on the stewpan, and set it to simmer very gently over a very slow tire, until the onions are quite done, without being fried brown : four yolks of eggs must then be added to bind the onions into a thick kind of paste. Meanwhile your cutlets having been seasoned and fried, or rather sautéed, as it would be most properly termed, cover the one side of each cutlet about half an inch thick with the preparation of onions, &c. ; smooth the surface with a knife; egg it over with a brush; sprinkle fried bread-crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, mixed in equal proportions all over the cutlets; place them in neat order on a buttered sautapan; add a spoonful of gravy by way of moisture under the cutlets ; push them in the oven for ten minutes, and when hot, dish them up in a circle ; garnish their centre with potatoes scooped out in the shape of small balls and fried; pour some good gravy round the base, and serve.
Remove the fillet or meaty part wholly from the spinal bones of a loin of mutton; and then, having pared away all the fat and sinew, divide it across in two equal parts ; again subdivide these lengthwise each into four fillets; if properly cut, they will not require trimming. The fillets must be closely larded, and pickled for some hours in a marinade, No. 299 ; and afterwards drained, and placed in rows on butter in a sautapan, with a gill of their clear pickle, and set in a sharp oven to bake for about a quarter of an hour ; when done, they must be salamandered over, (the larding quickly run down over thee fire to cause the fillets to absorb all their gravy,) glazed and dished up in a circle, garnished with French bans, green peas, or fried potatoes, sauced with chêvreuil sauce, No. 29, and served.
These are prepared as indicated in the preceding number, and when dished up, should be garnished with a Jardinière in the centre, and some brown sauce incorporated with the gravy in which the fillets have been braized (and freed from grease) should be poured round the fillets.
The chump-end of a loin of mutton may be turned to account for this purpose, by first cutting off all the meat in thin slices, and then dividing these into neatly trimmed collops, and placing them in rows in a sautapan containing an ounce of dissolved butter ; season with pepper and salt, fry them quickly over a brisk fire until browned on both sides, then add a tablespoonful of flour, some chopped mushrooms, parsley and shallot, thee juice of half a lemon, a spoonful of catsup, and a gill of stock or water; stir altogether over the fire for five minutes; pile up the escalopes in the centre of the dish; garnish round with potato croquets or sippets of toasted bread, and serve.
About six bones of the best end of a neck of veal will be required for this purpose ; the chine-bone must first be removed with a small saw, and also the upper part of the cutlet or rib-bones, leaving the bones intended to form the cutlets only about three inches long : the cutlets must then be divided, trimmed, and closely larded. Next, garnish the bottom of a fricandeau-pan (see Adams' Illustrations) with sliced carrot, onion, celery, a garnished faggot of parsley, and an onion stuck with six cloves ; place the larded cutlets on this bed of vegetables, with their bones all pointing to the centre of the pan; moisten with stock or water, just enough to reach up to the edge of the larding ; cover with a buttered round of paper ; set the pan on the fire to boil, and then push it in the oven to braise for about an hour and a half, basting the cutlets frequently with their own liquor; and when they are nearly done, salamander (see Adams’ Illustrations) the larding, glaze it, and dish up the cutlets in the reversed position—that is, with the bones under, thus showing the larded part uppermost: use the strained stock from the cutlets to make the sauce for the Financière, No. 104; garnish and sauce the entrée.
These may be cut either from the neck, or from a pound or more of what is termed veal cutlet; the cutlets must be seasoned and fried brown on both sides, and finished with fine-herbs, &c., in exactly the same manner as cutlets a la Vicomtesse, No. 598, with this exception, that instead of bread-crumbing them, they are to be encased in papers, as follows: viz.,—take as many sheets of writing-paper as you have prepared outlets, and by cutting off the outer angles with scissors, give them something of a heart-shape, remembering that they must he sufficiently large to enfold the cutlets ; oil these papers on both sides; place a cutlet masked with a sufficiency of its sauce so as entirely to cover it all over inside the paper, overlapping it with the upper half, and then neatly and tightly fold or rather twist in the edges of the paper in order effectually to prevent the sauce from escaping while the cutlet is being broiled. About a quarter of an hour before sending to table, place the cutlets on a baking-sheet slightly oiled, push them in a rather sharp oven to remain there until their envelopes become lightly browned, and the cutlets are thoroughly warned ; dish them up with fried parsley in the centre, and serve. These cutlets may also be grilled.
These cutlets must first be fried on both sides, each cutlet is to be covered on one side only with a preparation made with horseradish, &c., see No. 92, made with three sticks of horseradish instead of one as therein stated, the preparation to be laid on half an inch thick, egged over and crumbed with a mixture of grated cheese and fried bread-crumbs : the cutlets are to be placed in a circular row on a buttered sautapan, with a couple of spoonfuls of gravy under them, pushed in a sharp oven for ten minutes to make them perfectly hot ; dish them up, garnish the centre with any kind of dressed vegetable ; pour some thin tomata sauce round the base of the entrée, and serve.
Soak the sweetbreads in water for a couple of hours to extract all the blood; parboil them for five minutes just to set them firm, and after being cooled in water, trim and lard them closely ; place them in a deep sautapan on a thin bed of sliced carrot, onion, celery ; moisten with just enough stock to reach up to the commencement of the larding, push them in a rather sharp oven to braize for about twenty-minutes, basting them frequently with their own liquor; and when done, salamandered, and glazed, dish them up against a pile of four quenelles, placed in an angular form by forming the angle with three, and placing the fourth in their centre; garish round the sweetbreads with Toulouse ragout, No. 125, and serve.
Parboil the sweetbreads for ten minutes, with a little salt in the water, and when done and cooled, cut them in slices a quarter of an inch thick; trim these neatly without waste; dip each with a fork in some stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce, No. 17, and place them in rows on a baking-sheet upon rough ice to become firmly set ; they must now be egged, crumbed, placed in order in a frying-basket, fried in hot lard, of a light-brown colour, dished up in a circular row, the centre garnished with any kind of dressed vegetable, some thin sauce poured round the base; then send to table.
That part of the calf which is called tendons, consists, in point of fact, of the gristly portion of the breast-bone which has not yet become hardened into bone; this is situated towards the thick edge of the breast of veal. After having first removed the meat from the tendons, cut them straight along the end of the rib-bones, leaving the flap of meat on to the ribs : next, slice off such portion of the breast-bone as may have become formed into bone, divide the tendon or gristle part into square pieces the size of a cutlet; place these in a stewpan on a bed of carrots, onions, turnips, celery, garnished faggot of parsley, six cloves, a few peppercorns, and a little salt; moisten with sufficient stock or water to let them swim ; put the lid on, and set them to braize very gently on a slow fire for about four hours. When the tendons are done through, which will be perceptible by ascertaining that their gristle has become almost transparent and comparatively soft to the probe of a fork, they must be carefully removed with a small skimmer, one by one, and being placed between two earthen dishes, set in the larder to become partially cold, in order that they may be neatly trimmed, placed in a sautapan with their own liquor (previously freed from grease, and boiled down to glaze). Make them hot, roll them in their glaze; dish them up in a circular row; garnish the centre with dressed spinach; pour the remainder of their glaze round the base, and serve.
Note.—Tendons of veal may also be served with stewed peas, or any other vegetable garnish.
Braize the tendons as directed in the preceding case, and use their stock to make some curry sauce, No. 85 ; put the tendons in this to simmer for awhile ; dish them up with fried bacon in between each tendon ; pour the sauce over the entrée, and serve plain boiled rice in a dish separately.
Trim and fry the outlets in the usual manner ; and when become partially cold, dip each cutlet up to the bone, in some stiffly-reduced Allemande sauce strongly flavoured with mushrooms ; each cutlet as it is dipped to be afterwards placed flat on a baking-sheet upon rough ice to set the sauce quite firm on the cutlets; they are then to be egged, crumbed, fried in hot lard, and being dished up, are to be garnished with a purée of green asparagus, or asparagus peas, and some suprême or any other white sauce poured round the base.
These are prepared in the first instance as in the preceding case, and are to be dipped in D’uxelles sauce, No. 75, and when this has become firmly set upon them, let them be egged, crumbed, fried, and dished up on a vegetable border as represented in the woodcut; the centre to be garnished with a purée of green peas, or a Jardinière, and some supreme sauce poured round the base.
These are prepared and served in the manner described in No. 607, bearing in mind that being smaller, ten minutes’ braizing will suffice to do them.
First blanch—that is, parboil the lamb’s breads for five minutes to set them firm ; drain and put them on a plate until cold, slice them in small scollops, fry them with an ounce of butter in a sautapan, season with nutmeg and salt, the juice of half a lemon ; shake in a tablespoonful of flour, and some sliced button mushrooms, moisten with a gill of cream, move the whole gently over the fire to simmer for a few minutes, then add two raw yolks of eggs ; mix well and gently, and use this to fill a vol-au-vent, rice border, or else some small scollop-shells or paper cases ; the latter are to be covered over with fried bread-crumbs, and after being made hot in the oven, are to be salamandered unless already sufficiently coloured.
Trim the fillets of two fowls—which, by making use of the reversed skins of the large fillets to envelope the minion or smaller ones, will produce eight fillets; these are to be placed in a sautapan in clarified butter, seasoned with a little salt, and covered with a round of buttered paper ; and about ten minutes before dinner-time, are to be placed on the fire just the time required to set them,—that is, as soon as the under part of the fillets begins to whiten, they must be removed from the fire, and being turned, and replaced on the ire again. must—as soon as they are also whitened on that side, be drained, trimmed and dished up on a border of vegetables, No. 523 (already turned out on its dish), a ring of truffle or tongue placed on each fillet, the centre of the entrée filled with a Macédoine of vegetables, No. 101, and some suprême poured round the base.
Trim the fillets of fowls, and finish them as in the preceding case ; and when done, roll them in a little suprême sauce ; dish them up alternately with similar pieces of red tongue ; fill the centre of the entrée with dressed asparagus peas; pour some of the sauce round the base, and serve.
Remove the fillets from two fowls, simmer them in a little clarified butter and salt, until they become white and are done through ; they must then be drained, cut into collops, put into some ready-prepared cucumber ragoût, No. 109, made hot, and piled up in the centre of the dish, garnished round with fleurons or potato croquiets, and served.
These are made with the legs of fowls—the fillets of which have been used for preparing a suprême; and thus, that entrée becomes less expensive. The legs being cut from the carcasses of the fowls, must be freed from the thigh-bone, leaving the leg—or what is termed the drumstick-bone—in its place ; these legs of fowls must next be gently braized in some seasoned stock until quite tender, and then taken up, placed in a press between two dishes, and when quite cold, trimmed in the form of cutlets, dipped in some reduced Allemande sauce, and placed on a baking-sheet upon rough ice to become set firm ; they must then be egged, crumbed, fried in hot lard, and when drained and dished up, garnished with any description of dressed vegetable, sauced round with Béchamel , and served.
In this case also the legs of fowls whose fillets have already been used will serve the purpose : the legs, wings, and back-bones should be separated and neatly trimmed, placed in an deep sautapan with two table spoonfuls of salad oil, a sprig of thyme one bay-leaf, a clove of garlic, a little pepper and salt. Fry the members of fowls ever at sharp fire until they are dune of a light-brown colour, and then, after removing the bay-leaf and thyme, shake in twin tablespoonfuls of flour, one of Crosse and Blackwell's Indian Chutnee ; stir together, moisten with half a pint of good gravy, simmer the whole over the fire for ten minutes, and serve.
A couple of chickens are required for this dish ; when they have been drawn and singed, remove the legs end wings, and then, with the point of a knife, slit the skin of the breast, spread it off the fillets, and remove these with the pinion-bone left on them. Each fillet must be trimmed, then closely larded, and placed in a small sautapan spread with butter, and moistened with a little good stock; the four minion fillets should be decorated with tongue, turned round in a ring, and set in clarified butter in another small saucepan :—the legs, wings, and the four halves of the back-bones must be put in a stewpan with sliced onion, carrot, celery, a garnished faggot of parsley, a bit of mace, peppercorns and salt. Moisten with a quart of good stock; boil gently for twenty minutes; strain this stock into a stew pan containing two ounces of butter and the same of flour well kneaded together, and a handful of peelings of clean mushrooms ; stir this sauce over the fire to boil for twenty minutes; then add a leason of four yolks of eggs and half a gill of cream, a little nutmeg and lemon juice, and a good pinch of sugar ; stir the sauce again over the fire merely to set the leason, without allowing it to boil ; and strain it through a pointed tin strainer (see Adams’ Illustrations), on to the trimmed legs, &c., of the chickens, already contained in a small stew pan ; add a few button mushrooms, truffles, and cocks’ combs. About twenty minutes before dinner-time, warm the fricassee without boiling; neatly arrange the members in a pile on the dish; dispose the larded fillets and also the small decorated fillets (previously braized and glazed) in symmetrical order on the top of the entrée, garnish with groups of the truffles, mushrooms, and cocks’ combs, as exemplified in the annexed woodcut, and serve.
Cut up two chickens into members or joints,—that is, divide the legs, wings, and fillets with the pinion-bones left on, the breasts and back-bones having been divided each in two pieces ; let these be trimmed, removing the thigh-bones from the legs; fry the whole in a deep sautapan with half a gill of oil, a bay-leaf and thyme, a clove of garlic, a pinch of cayenne and salt; and when done of a light·brown colour, remove the bay-leaf and thyme, pour off the oil, add four ounces of Crosse and Blackwell’s conserve of tomatas, an ounce of glaze, a spoonful of Captain White’s curry paste, and two glasses of white wine ; simmer all together over the fire for ten minutes; dish up in a pile, garnish with fried eggs and small pieces of ham; pour the sauce over the entrée, and serve.
Draw, singe, trim, and split the chickens into halves ; season with pepper and salt, and fry them in a sautapan with butter until done on both sides ; they must be put in press between two dishes until half cold,—when they are to be egged and crumbed all over, sprinkled with clarified butter, and crumbed over again. About twenty minutes before dinner-time, broil the halves of chicken over a clear fire, of a light-golden brown, place them on a dish containing cold Tartar sauce, No. 38; garnish round with pickles, and serve.
Note.—Al1 kinds of meats or fish prepared as above are excellent when served as herein indicated.
Remove the legs, or rather the feet, from a fowl; force the drumsticks inside, and split it down the back : spread it open; season with pepper and salt; put it in a covered pan with two ounces of butter, and set it to fry slowly over a moderate heat ; and when done through, and of a light-brown colour, let it be glazed and placed on some purée of mushrooms, and served.
The purée of mushrooms is prepared as follows: viz.,—chop fine a good handful of clean mushrooms, and put them in a stewpan with an ounce of butter, pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon ; stir this over the fire for five minutes, and then add the crumb of a French roll soaked in milk and a gill of cream; stir all together over the fire to boil for ten minutes and then rub the purée through a tammy or sieve, and put it in a small stewpan for use.
Remove all the breast-bone from two chickens; stuff them with chicken or veal forcemeat, No. 185 ; truss them as for boiling ; envelope them in buttered papers tied up with string; boil them for about twenty-five minutes, more or less, according to their size ; and when done, remove the strings, dish them up, garnish with decorated quenelles and truffles, pour some cardinal sauce, No. 62, over the chickens, and serve.
Truss two small chickens as for boiling, and put them in a stewpan with a clove of garlic, bay-leaf and thyme, half a gill of salad-oil, a pinch of cayenne and salt ; cover the stewpan, and set it over a slow fire to simmer gently, taking care to turn the chickens over frequently, so as to colour them equally of a light-brown all over alike; and when done, remove the bay-leaf and thyme ; pour off the oil ; add some conserve of tomatas, a piece of glaze, a glass of madeira, some truffles and the juice of a lemon; simmer altogether over the fire for ten minutes; dish up the chickens with the truffles and sauce, and serve dressed macaroni separately.
Pare off all the flesh from a pheasant, and use it to prepare some forcemeat as described in No. 185, and finish it by incorporating therewith about two tablespoonfuls of brown purée of onions ; use the carcass of the pheasant to prepare some Richelieu sauce as shown in No. 63. Roll out the forcemeat with flour on the table in the form of oval cutlets, measuring about two and a half inches long by one and a half wide and a quarter of an inch thick; and as you shape these boudins, drop them carefully into some nearly boiling water with salt,—remembering that they must not boil, as that would spoil them in a measure :—when done, drain the boudins on a cloth until cold, and then after egging them over, bread-crumb and fry them in clarified butter in a sautapan ; and when done, and dished up, sauce them with the Richelieu sauce prepared as indicated above.
With all the meaty part of a fowl, prepare some forcemeat as directed in No. 185; and when finished, incorporate therewith two spoonfuls of purée of mushrooms, and use this to form some quenelles with tablespoons, filling the centre of each quenelle with small pellets of purée of truffles ; the quenelles are to be poached in the usual way in boiling water, and when done, are to be drained, and dished up in a crôustade as represented in the annexed woodcut ; some Allemande sauce is to be poured over the quenelles, and a border of truffles placed Ronald the base.
Prepare some forcemeat with a couple of grouse as directed in No. 185, reserving the carcasses to make some salmis sauce, No. 68. Finish the forcemeat by incorporating therewith two spoonfuls of stiffly-reduced salmis sauce; form the boudins with two tablespoons introducing small pellets of croquet preparation, No. 315, composed of truffle, tongue, and mushrooms, seasoned with chopped chives ; and when the boudins have been poached, drained, and become cold, they are to be masked over with some reduced salmis sauce finished with three yolks of eggs, egged, crumbed, and fried in hot lard; they are then to be dished up with a ragoût composed of artichoke bottoms, and the remainder of the salmis sauce is to be poured round the base.
Prepare some chicken forcemeat with the flesh of a fowl, as indicated in No. 185, and finish it by incorporting therewith two spoonfuls of good Allemande sauce, No. 17 : with two tablespoons form this forcemeat into quenelles, and poach them in the ordinary way; when done, dish them up in a circle; pour some suprême sauce, No. 15, over and round them, and garnish the centre with green peas, or asparagus peas, Macédoine, truffles, mushrooms, &c.
Divide a pheasant into members or joints, making two fillets with the pinion-bone left on ; the legs to be divided, making drumstick and thigh-joints; the back and breast to be cut each in two pieces. Fry these in a stewpan with a little oil, garlic, thyme, bay-leaf, chopped mushrooms, truffles, parsley, pepper and salt, over a sharp fire until half done; then add half a gill of any kind of thick sauce, and the juice of half a lemon boil the whole quickly over the fire for five minutes to reduce the sauce, tossing or moving the pan the whole time to prevent the pheasant from attaching and burning. You then remove the thyme and bay-leaf ; take up the joints of pheasant on to a flat dish; add three yolks of eggs to the sauce; stir this over the fire quickly so as to set the sauce smoothly, and use it to mask the joints evenly with a covering of it about the thickness of a penny-piece, and set them to become cold. A quarter of an hour before dinner-time, dip each joint of pheasant separately in some frying batter, No. 290, and fry them in very hot lard, of a light colour, and perfectly crisp ; dish them up ; garnish with tomatas au gratin; pour some truffle sauce round the base, and serve.
Truss a pheasant as for boiling, and put it in a stewpan with half a pound of ham cut in square pieces; fry together over a moderate fire, and when the pheasant is browned all over, add four sliced Spanish onions, pepper and salt, and a spoonful of Chutnee; put the lid on, and set the whole to simmer gently for about three-quarters of an hour, by which time the pheasant will be done and the onions reduced to a pulp ; place the pheasant on its dish ; stir the onions on the fire to give the sauce some consistency by further reduction if needed, and then pour it over the pheasant, and serve.
Roast off a pheasant, and when done, set it to become partially cold; it must then be cut up in members or joints, and divested of its skin, neatly trimmed, and dished up; having used the trimmings to make some salmis sauce, No. 68, add either mushrooms or truffles, and pour it hot over the joints of pheasants.
Note.—Salmis of all kinds of game are prepared alike, the trimmings being used for making the sauce.
Truss the partridges as for boiling; fry them in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of oil, a clove of garlic, and a little salt ; and when browned, add enough conserve of tomatas (Crosse and Blackwellʼs) to furnish sufficient sauce for the dish, an ounce of glaze, two glasses of white wine, and a good teaspoonful of sweet red Spanish pepper ; simmer the whole together for ten minutes, and serve. Olives may he added.
Note.—All kinds of game are excellent when dressed as above.
Truss and boil the cartridges in some stock or water, seasoned with the usual complement of carrot, onion, &c., a little pepper and salt; use their liquor to prepare some celery sauce, No. 119 ; and when about to send to table, make the partridges hot in a little of their liquor reserved for the purpose ; dish them up with the purée of celery poured over them, and garnished round with potato croquets.
Note.—Stewed pheasants, grouse, or rabbits may also be served as indicated above; and Soubise or onion sauce would be equally suitable for the purpose.
Young birds only are fit for this purpose ; they must be drawn, the legs cut off, the drumsticks tucked inside, singed, and split in halves : they must then be seasoned with pepper and salt, and fried in a saucepan with a piece of butter until browned on both sides ; shake in a little flour, add a piece of glaze, and a spoonful of Oude sauce ; simmer together over the fire for ten minutes, and serve.
Note.—All kinds of young game form a most delicious dish when cooked in this unpretending way.
Take out the fillets of two partridges ; and, having moved the thin skin which covers them, let them be simmered in a sautapan with a little butter, pepper and salt, until they are become set firm without being quite done thorough ; they are then to be masked all over on both sides with DʼUxelles sauce, No 75, and as soon as the sauce has become set quite firm on the fillets, the should be egged and crumbed, and placed carefully in a wire frying-basket, to be fried in hot lard : as soon a they have acquired a light-brown colour, dish them up in a circle ; garnish with small quenelles made with the meat from the legs of the partridges, No. 185, and pour round the base of the entrée some salmis sauce, No 68 made from the carcasses.
Note.—The fillets of chickens, pigeons, or any kind of game may be advantageously dressed in the same way.
Skin, draw, wash and wipe thoroughly clean a young rabbit in good condition ; and, having cut it into joints, place these in a stewpan with two ounces of butter pepper and salt; set this on the fire to simmer, tossing it frequently to prevent the rabbit from acquiring any colour ; and as soon as the pieces are become set firm, shake in two ounces of flour, two dozen peeled button onions, and as many mushrooms; toss all together ; moisten with a glass of white wine, and a good half pint of stock or water ; stir the fricassee over the fire till it boils, and set it by the side to continue gently simmering for about half an hour; and then, after removing the skin and grease, boil down the sauce if necessary to give it consistency ; mix in a leason of three yolks of eggs and half a gill of cream ; season with a little nutmeg, a pinch of sugar, a few grains of cayenne, and the juice of half a lemon ; be careful while setting the lesson in the sauce over the fire that it does not boil, for that would cause it to curdle and decompose, and thus in a great measure spoil the dish.
Having cleansed the rabbit, split the under part of the vent, run the knife through the sinews under the thighs, open the breast so as to lay the rabbit out flat, and use two small wooden skewers to secure its shape; it must then be lightly fried in a saucepan with butter, pepper and salt, until three parts done ; and as soon as become partially cold, it is to be egged and crumbed, sprinkled over with clarified butter, and crumbed again. Twenty minutes before sending to table push the rabbit in a sharp oven to colour it of a golden brown, and when done through, dish it up on some Tartare sauce, No. 38 garnish round with Piccalilla, and serve.
When rabbits are intended to be boiled, they should be first well washed, and then soaked in milk and water for a couple of hours ; indeed, hares, leverets, and rabbits when treated in this way for roasting are considerably improved by being thus rendered more juicy and tender. Truss the rabbit with two wooden skewers and string, so as to secure it in shape, boil it in just water enough to cover it; season with carrot, onion, garnished faggot of parsley, a bit of mace, a few peppercorns, and a little salt : about three-quarters to an hour will suffice to cook an ordinary-sized rabbit; and when done and dished up, pour either onion sauce or celery sauce, No. 119, over it ; garnish it round with small strippets of fried bacon, and serve.
Cut up the rabbit into joints by cutting off the legs and shoulders; divide the back into four or five equal parts, and split the head into halves ; fry all these in a sautapan with butter until they are browned all over ; shake in a good tablespoonful of flour, some chopped mushrooms, parsley, and shallots ; season with pepper and salt, the juice of half a lemon, a glass of sherry and a gill of good gravy : toss the whole together over the fire to simmer gently for ten minutes, and serve.
Cut up a rabbit into joints, and put them in a basin with a sliced onion, some sprigs of parsley, thyme and bay-leaf, a little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of oil, and a tablespoonful of Crosse and Blackwell’s ravigotte vinegar ; allow the pieces of rabbit to remain in this seasoning for three hours, tossing it over occasionally so as to admit of its becoming thoroughly impregnated with its aroma. A quarter of an hour before dinner-time, dip each piece or rabbit in some frying batter, No. 290, and drop each successively into some very hot lard, to be fried of a light colour; and when the pieces are become crisp, drain and dish them up with fried parsley, and serve maître-d'hôtel sauce, No. 32, separately.
Cut a rabbit into joints, and fry them in a stew pan with half a pound of streaky bacon cut in square pieces ; the bacon should be fried first, then add the rabbit, and when all is browned, add six onions sliced very thin, and two sour apples peeled and sliced; season with a clove of garlic and salt, and a large tablespoonful of Captain Whiteʼs curry paste; put the lid on and set the whole to stew very gently over a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour : when the rabbit is done quite tender, remove the pieces into another stewpan ; shake in a little flour, add a piece of glaze and a gill of stock or water to the onions, &c., and stir the sauce over the fire for ten minutes; rub it through a tammy or hair sieve; pour it to the pieces of rabbits, warm altogether; dish up neatly, and serve separately.
Truss and roast the woodcocks before a brisk fire for about fifteen minutes, and then take them up on the dish ; cut the birds in the usual manner, by making two fillets with the pinions left on, two legs, the breast, and the back; the skin must be left on, and the members should be but slightly trimmed. Remove the gizzards from the trail (which consists of the whole of the inside of the woodcocks), and put it in a mortar with a small pat of butter, a small piece of shallot, pepper and salt; pound altogether; rub it through a sieve on to a plate, and use this to spread on the upper side only of some heart-shaped crôutons or pieces of fried bread, and set them aside for use. Put the trimmings in a stewpan with half a pint of wine, four chopped shalots, a small sprig of thyme, an ounce of glaze, a wineglassful of mushroom catsup, and the juice of half a lemon ; boil this for ten minutes ; strain it on to the pieces of woodcocks; warm them without boiling; dish up; place the crôutons round the entrée ; pour the sauce over it, and serve. The crôutons should of course be made hot, by pushing them in the oven for three minutes.
Note.—Snipes are dressed in the same way.
Roast off four snipes under-done, and set them aside on a dish. Prepare a small quantity of forcemeat, No. 188, using about six ounces of fowls’ livers for the purpose ; and when ready, roll out one-half of the forcemeat with flour on the table in the form of a thick rope, and twirl this on the bottom of the dish in a complete circle ; flatten it all round slightly with the thumb to give it a level surface ; and then, after splitting the snipes, and covering the inside part of each with a coating of the forcemeat a quarter of an inch thick, dish them up in a row on the circular border of forcemeat ; cover the whole surface with a thin coating of the forcemeat ; smooth it over with a knife dipped in hot water ; place a round of buttered paper on the top ; push the entrée in a brisk oven for about twenty-five minutes to bake it and when done through, absorb any grease which may have oozed out with a napkin; pour some périgueux or truffle sauce over the snipes and nerve.
This dish in eaten in greatest perfection, when prepared—or rather finished—on the dinner-table. Let the wild fowl—of whichever kind it may consist—be roasted rather under-done before a brisk clear fire, be frequently basted with butter while roasting; and as soon as done, let it be sent to table with rich brown gravy : on the dinner-table—close to the carver—should be placed a deep silver dish on a spirit-of-wine-burner, containing two glasses of port wine, one of cavice sauce, the juice of lemon, a sprinkle of salt, and a pinch of cayenne ; cut up the wild fowl, place the slices and joints in this, add the gravy, stir altogether, and hand round for the guests to help themselves.
These are prepared and finished as directed in the foregoing case, with the addition of some black-currant jelly.
Cut up a leveret into joints, and put them on a plate ; divide half a pound of streaky bacon (previously trimmed and soaked in water) into inch-square pieces, and having fried these in a stewpan, add the pieces of leveret and fry them brown; shake in four ounces of flour ; moisten with a battle of French red wine, at 14s. per dozen ; add half a pint of button onions, and an equal quantity of mushrooms, a garnished faggot of parsley, pepper, and salt ; stir the civet on the fire till it boils, and set it by the side to continue gently simmering until the pieces of leveret are tender ; remove the scum ; dish up the civet ; reduce the sauce if necessary ; pour it over the entrée, and serve.
Parboil a pound of streaky bacon for twenty minutes to extract the salt; cut it into inch squares ; fry these in a stewpan, then add a hare cut into joints; fry these brown, shake in six ounces of flour, moisten with a quart of stock or water, two glasses of port wine, and a like quantity of catsup; add eight rather small onions, a pound of the red part of carrots cut into pieces of about an inch square and neatly shaped, half a pound of mushrooms, a garnished faggot of parsley, pepper and salt ; stir altogether over the fire till it boils, and then set it by the side to simmer until the pieces of hare are tender ; remove the scum, pour off the sauce into another stewpan to be further reduced by boiling if needed, to give it sufficient consistency, and strain it back to the jugged hare. Just before sending to table, add a glass of port wine and four ounces of currant jelly ; make hot, and serve.
A baron of hare consists of the hind-quarters and loins, cut across just close to the shoulder-blades. This, after removing the thin pellicle or skin which covers the loins and the upper part of the thighs, should be closely larded, and placed in a deep sautapan with a pint of sour cream and a glass of vinegar, and seasoned with a little salt; it should then be put in the oven to bake for about three-quarters of an hour, taking care to baste it frequently with the cream, &c.; and when done tender, pass the red-hot salamander over the larding to render it crisp. Having dished up the baron of hare, pour two glasses of red French wine into the pan; add a large tablespoonful of red·currant jelly ; stir all together over the fire for five minutes; strain it over the hare, and serve.
Peel two oranges with a sharp knife, so as to remove the thin peel without andy pith ; shred this very finely, and parboil it in a little water for two minutes: drain it dry and put it in a small bainmarie stewpan with the strained juice of the two oranges, an ounce of good glaze, or the equivalent in good brown gravy, and a pinch of cayenne ; boil together for two minutes, and serve this sauce in a sauce-boat with roast wild fowl or ducklings : a glass of port wine may be added for wild fowl.
Any remains of dressed poultry, game, or wild fowl serve for this purpose. They should he cut neatly in members or joints without waste, seasoned with peeper and salt, with a tablespoon of flour shaken all over them, and put aside on a plate; chop fine about two tablespoonfuls of Piccalilla (Crosse and Blackwell's) and four shalots, and put these in a stewpan with a glass of mushroom catsup, and an equal quantity of the liquor from the Piccalilla ; boil down until reduced to half the original quantity, then add the pices of fowl. or whatever the meat may consist of, a glass of sherry, and a gill of gravy ; boil gently for a quarter of an hour, and serve. Olives, button mushrooms, or truffles, may be added.