Francatelli Recipes for Appetisers, Chapter 6
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Francatelli Recipes for Appetisers — This page gives you the entire contents of the Sixth Chapter: Appetisers for Breakfast or Light Suppers from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
CHAPTER VI.
No. 301.— CURRIED RICE.
Boil a pound of rice as indicated in No. 227 ; fry it in a stew pan or saucepan, with a little fresh butter and a spoonful of Captain White’s excellent curry paste; stir lightly together, and serve hot.
No. 302.—RICE, TURKISH FASHION.
Fry the boiled rice with a little butter, cayenne, and saffron powder; season with a little salt, and throw in a handful of cleaned Smyrna raisins; serve quite hot.
No. 303.—RICE, POLISH FASHION.
Cut an onion into very thin slices, and fry them in a saucepan with a pat of butter ; then add about two ounces of cooked ham cut into shreds, and also the boiled rice; season with a pinch of cayenne pepper, and a spoonful of grated cheese , stir altogether lightly over the fire, and serve hot.
No. 304.—RICE, PIEDMONTESE FASHION.
Chop a small onion very fine, and fry it in a saucepan with an ounce of butter ; then add half a pound of boiled rice dry, and the pulp of three baked potatoes ; season with an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, and a pinch of cayenne and salt; pile up the rice in a hot dish; strew over the surface some cleansed fillets of anchovies or sardines, and send to table quite hot.
No. 305.—RICE, MILANESE FASHION.
Fry the boiled rice in a saucepan with a piece of butter ; season with grated Parmesan or other cheese ; add any remains of dressed fowl, game, tongue, ham, or truffle, prawns, lobster, or any kind of meat or fish most convenient; any or several of these may be used together, and should be cut for the purpose into shreds or squares ; season with a little nutmeg, pepper and salt;serve hot.
No. 306.—RICE, FLORENTINE FASHION.
Chop and fry an onion with a spoonful of salad-oil or a pat of butter ; to this add half a pint of picked shrimps, crayfish, or prawns ; add a dessertspoonful of curry paste or powder ; fry altogether for a few minutes, then add the boiled rice and a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese; serve quite hot.
No. 307.—RICE, SPANISH FASHION.
Fry the boiled rice in saucepan, with a spoonful of salad-oil or an ounce of butter, until it assumes a very light golden colour ; then add either a large tablespoonful of Crosse and Blackwellʼs tomata sauce, or, if in season, a couple of ripe tomatas (previously squeezed to free them from seeds and watery juice) ; season with Spanish sweet pepper and a little grated cheese ; pile up lightly in a hot dish ; garnish it round with grilled Spanish choruses, or, if unable to procure these, use in their stead thin slices of ham, bacon, Bologna, German, or any kind of sausage; or thin strippets of smoked salmon, or Finnon Haddies, or herrings, or pilchards, &c.
No. 308.—RAVIOLIS A LA NAPOLITAINE.
First prepare the raviolis as shown in No. 167; and when drained, place them neatly arranged in a dish, with alternate layers of Parmesan cheese; sprinkle a little dissolved fresh butter over the surface; set the dish in the oven for a quarter of an hour; pour about a gill of rich brown game sauce or gravy to the raviolis, and serve quite hot.
No. 309.—ROMAN GNIOCCHI.
To half a pint of water add three ounces of fresh butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt ; set this to boil in a stewpan over the fire, and as soon as the ebullition rises, mix into it six ounces of flour; stir this paste briskly over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stew pan; then mix in two whole eggs and the yolks of two others, and also two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. Having vigorously worked this paste, proceed to roll it out in the shape of very small corks, with flour strewn upon the table; parboil these for ten minutes, and having drained them upon a sieve, finish the gnocchi as directed for raviolis, No. 308.
No. 3l0.—RICE A LA SŒUR NIGHTINGALE.
Fry the boiled dry rice with a little fresh butter, nutmeg, pepper and salt ; and when quite hot, add the whites of three hard-boiled eggs shred fine, and the white parts of a dried haddock ; pile all this up lightly in a hot dish ; strew over the cone the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs previously rubbed through a wire sieve, and mixed with a little grated Parmesan cheese; garnish the rice round the base with fried croutons of bread push in the oven far five minutes—just to slightly colour the surface of a golden hue, and serve immediately.
No. 311.—FRIED OYSTERS.
Parboil and beard two dozen oysters ; dip each separately in batter, No. 288; drop them into some hot frying fat, and when done crisp, and drained upon a cloth, dish them up with fried parsley on a folded napkin, and serve hot. Fried muscles are served in the same way.
No. 312.—SCOLLOPS OF MEAT, OR OF FISH.
Trim neatly into round or oval scollops any kind of cooked poultry, game, meat or fish; dip these in good Allemande sauce, No. 17; place them on a dish over the ice, and when set cold and firm, dip each piece in beaten egg ; roll them in bread-crumbs, and try them in hot frying fat ; dish them up on a folded napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve hot.
No. 3l3.—RIZZOLLETTI.
To half a pound of boiled rice add two spoonfuls of good white sauce, three yolks of raw eggs, nutmeg, pepper and salt; stir this over the fire for five minutes to set the eggs, then put it to cool ; and when cold, take a tablespoonful of the preparation, spread it out hollow with a teaspoon, and insert in the hollow a teaspoonful of any kind of croquet meat ; envelop it in the rice ; egg and bread-crumb the rizzolletti ; fry them in hot frying fat, of a light colour; dish them up neatly with fried parsley, and serve hot.
No. 314.—RISSOLES.
Take about half a pound of trimmings of puff paste ; give it three turns or folds ; roll it out to the thickness of a new penny piece; place small balls of croquet meat at distances of about two inches from each other; moisten the paste round these with a brush dipped in water; fold the flap of the front part of the paste over the balls; press all round them with the edge of the thumb; cut them out with a fluted round tin cutter, and, as you do so, place the rissoles upon a floured dish : thus having cut out a sufficient number for your purpose, fry them in hot fat; dish them up with fried parsley, on a napkin, and serve hot.
No. 315.—CROQUETS OF MEAT, OR FISH.
Either chop neatly, or else cut up into very small squares, poultry, game, beef, mutton, lamb, veal, or any kind of firm fish left from a previous day`s dinner. If the croquets are to be made of any kind of meat, tongue, ham, mushrooms, or trails may be added ; put whatever is intended to be used for the rissoles into a saucepan with a small proportion of white sauce, three yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a pinch of chopped chives or shalot; stir this over the fire for a few minutes to set the eggs in the croquet meat ; and then spread it out an inch thick upon a plate, and set it to get cold and firm in a cool place ; it must next be divided into parts resembling large walnuts, rolled in bread-crumbs to enable you to shape it in the form of corks, pears, or balls ; again dipped in beaten egg ; rolled smooth in bread·crumbs; placed in a wire frying basket, and fried in hot frying fat of a light colour, and dished on a napkin with fried parsley.
No. 316.—FRIED SALMON ROE.
Boil the hard roe of a salmon or of any other fish — such as cod, pike, &c., and when done, drain and set it to become cold. It must then be cut in slices with a sharp knife, egged and bread-crumbed, fried in butter in a saucepan, and dished up with fried parsley, and eaten with Tartar sauce, No. 38.
No. 3l7.—LOBSTER CROQUETS.
Break up a fresh lobster, take all the meat carefully out of the shells, and mince it small ; then put the bruised coral and spawn into a saucepan with two spoonfuls of white sauce and three yolks of eggs, a little nutmeg, cayenne, and anchovy ; stir all this over the fire with a wooden spoon to set the egg firm in the mixture, and when this is accomplished, turn the croquet meat out on a plate and set it to cool, and finish as directed in No. 315.
No. 318.—OYSTER CROQUETS.
Scald and beard two dozen oysters, cut each oyster into about four or six pieces, and set these aside on a plate. Next, with their liquor make some oyster sauce as in No. 43 ; reduce the sauce by boiling down over the fire—stirring it the while to give it consistency ; add a bit of glaze and three yolks of eggs, a little cayenne, lemon-juice, and anchovy ; and having stirred the sauce again over the fire to set the eggs, add the cut-up oysters; stir these in to mix them with the sauce, and make the oysters hot through, for unless this precaution is duly attended to, the composition is likely to decompose, which circumstance renders it difficult to handle while moulding the croquets; for finishing these, see No. 315.
Note.—Croquets may also be prepared with shrimps, prawns, sweetbreads, ox-palates, fat livers, &c.
No. 319.—MARROW TOAST A LA VICTORIA.
Procure a marrow-bone, or get the butcher to break the bone for you—as this is rather an awkward affair for ladies; cut the marrow into small pieces the size of a filbert, and just parboil them in boiling water with a little salt for one minute ; it must then be instantly drained upon a sieve, seasoned with a little chopped parsley, pepper and salt, lemon-juice, and a mere suspicion of shalot ; toss lightly altogether, spread it out upon squares of hot crisp dry toast, and serve immediately.
Note.—Marrow toast used to be eaten every day at diner by the Queen at the time when I had the honour of waiting on Her Majesty.
No. 320.—MARROW-BONES.
Marrow-bones worth dressing in this manner are those only which come out of the centre of a round of beef, or from any part of the legs or shins : they should be sawed into halves crosswise, the thick ends chopped into shape, so as to make them stand straight, the open end of each bone covered with flour-and-water paste : the bones, placed upright in a deep stewpan containing hot water reaching half way up the bones, are to be boiled covered with the stewpan lid for about half an hour ; when done, remove the paste, envelop each bone with a napkin or cut paper, and send to table accompanied by hot crisp dry toast.
No. 321.—MARROW PATTIES.
Prepare the marrow as shown in No. 319, fill the patties with this, having first added thereto some reduced fine herbs sauce, No. 74.
No. 322.—MARROW CROUSTADES.
Take a square-shaped crummy stale half-quartern loaf ; pare away all the crust ; cut the crumb into slices an inch and a half in thickness, and with a plain round tin cutter an inch and a half in diameter, cut out a dozen circular pieces; these must be cut all round one end by making an incision with the point of a root knife in a ring up to within a quarter of an inch of the edge; these prepared pieces of bread must be fried in hot frying fat, of a light colour, and when done, the incised disk will be easily removed, as also the crumb from the interior. The croustades are to be filled with the marrow as prepared in No. 321.
No. 323.—PUFF-PASTE PATTIES.
Ingredients :—One pound of flour, one pound of butter, the yolk of an egg, the juice of a lemon, a teaspoonful of salt, and about half a pint of water. Process :—Place the flour on the pastry slab, spread it out in the centre so as to form a well, in which place the salt, a small bit of butter, the yolk of egg, the lemon-juice, and two-thirds of the water required to mix the paste ; you now spread out the fingers of the right hand and mix the ingredients together gradually with the tips of the fingers, adding a little more water, if necessary ; when the whole is thoroughly incorporated together, sprinkle a few drops of water on it, and work the sponge to and fro on the slab for two minutes, after which the paste should be elastic—soft and smooth as satin—to the touch.
The paste thus far prepared must now be spread out with the bent knuckles of the right hand on the slab ; and having pressed the butter in a cloth to extract any milk it may contain, place it in the centre of the paste, and partially spread it by pressing on it with a cloth; the four sides should then be folded over so as entirely to cover the butter ; shake a little flour over and under it; shape the paste in a square form measuring about ten inches each way; place this on a baking-sheet on the ice, and a saucepan filled with rough ice set upon the paste to keep it cool and firm. About ten minutes after the paste has been thus far prepared, roll it out on the slab with a rolling-pin, and shaking some flour lightly and sparingly over and under the paste to prevent it from sticking either to the rolling-pin or slab, and having rolled the paste out to exactly thirty inches in length, fold it in three equal folds ; press these together by running the rolling-pin over the paste ; turn it round and roll it out again the reverse way, in the same manner and length as before; fold it in three equally ; fasten these folds by running the rolling-pin over them with pressure, and set the paste back on the ice to rest for eight or ten minutes ; at the end of this time give two other turns as just described, and having again rested for other ten minutes, it must receive two or three more turns previously to its being cut out for baking.
The next thing to be done is, when after the last turn has been given to the paste, and it has been rolled out to the thickness of the sixth of an inch, and has been allowed to rest upon the ice for about three minutes, with a plain or fluted round tin patty cutter, just dipped in hot water, stamp out as many patties as you require ; place these on a baking-sheet previously moistened over with a brush dipped in water; press each down in its place with the fingers, egg over their surfaces, and with another plain tin round cutter less in diameter than the one with which the patties have been stamped out—this also dipped in very hot water,—make a circular incision in the centre of the patty ; push the sheet in a rather brisk oven, and bake them for about twenty minutes; and when done, it will be an easy matter to remove the tops and the crumb from the interior with a small-pointed root knife.
Note.—The use of rough ice in making puff paste is absolutely necessary during the summer months only ; during cold weather it may be dispensed with.
The patties being made according to the foregoing directions, are to be filled just before going to table with any of the different kinds of minces of poultry, game, or other meats, as also with all sorts of shell and other fish, prepared as in Nos. 315, 317, 318, and 321.
No. 324.—MUTTON PIES A LA WINDSOR.
Cut the lean part of a pound of loin of mutton into very small squares, season this with chopped mush rooms, parsley, and shallot, pepper and salt, and a little brown sauce or gravy, of any kind most convenient; mix altogether in a basin. Next, line some tartlet or patty-pans with short paste made without sugar ; fill these with some of the prepared mince ; cover them over with a top, press and pinch them round the edge ; egg them over ; place a stamped ornament on the top of the attics ; make a very small hole in the centre for ventilation, to prevent their bursting while baking ; push them in the oven on a baking-sheet for about twenty minutes; and when done, dish them on a napkin and send to table.
Note.—Small patties made as directed above, either with chicken or veal and ham, any kind of game or meat; or filled with any of the great variety of preparations for making croquets, they form an agreeable change for the dinner-table, and are also calculated to become favourite accessories to picnics or race-course luncheons, as well as welcome additions to the sportsman’s basket of prog.
No. 325.—SAVOURY TRIFLES.
It is necessary for the preparation of these delicious morsels to practise making small, plaited, or square paper cases, about the size of a crown-piece ; these are easily enough made by paying attention to the following instructions : viz.,—cut pieces of note·paper into squares measuring three inches on all four sides; double this in two, equally, and fold each side into three reversed plaits; then turn back the outer leaves ; turn back the corners equally and correctly ; fold the ends ; pass the thumb with pressure on the edges ; open the centre ; pinch the corners, and the case will then stand up erect. The round plaited cases are made with circular pieces of paper of about the same dimensions as the former ; and after being plaited all round to the depth of an inch and a half, are pushed into a round wooden box, and being forced into it by means of a circular wedge of wood made to fit the hollow tightly, and the edge of the paper being twisted under with the back part of the blade of a small knife, the case will have received its accomplished form. The cases must be slightly oiled inside and out, and filled with any kinds of meat, shell fish, or other fish, minced or scolloped, and finished with sauce, &c., as directed for the preparation of croquet meats ; covered over with fried bread-crumbs, made hot in the oven for a few minutes, dished up on napkins, and sent to table quite hot.
Note.—These trilfles form a very fashionable addition to the first course of a dinner.
No. 326.—TURKISH PILAU.
Roast off a chicken, and when done, remove all the meat from the bones in large neatly-out slices, and set these aside on a plate with the chicken bones, a bit of ham, thyme, shallot, two cloves, a glass of sherry, and a pint of stock or water, boiled gently for half an hour ; make an essence, which after being strained must be further boiled down to the value of a gill, and kept in reserve. While the fore part of the preparation is going on, wash and parboil for five minutes a pound of rice, drain it free from water, and put it into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and stir this over a brisk fire until the rice acquires equally in every grain a light-fawn colour ; then add a pint and a half of stock or water, cayenne pepper, and the juice extracted from three pennyworth of saffron, by boiling it with a little water ; put the lid on the stew pan, and set the rice to boil, or rather simmer, very gently over a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour ; by the end of this time the rice being done, stir it lightly with a fork, to detach the grains from each other, adding a little curry powder ; pile the rice up in a dish ; place the pieces of fowl kept in reserve, and which have been warmed in the essence—also reserved for that purpose ; crown the whole with a group of stewed Sultana raisins, and serve hot.
No. 327.—INDIAN PILAU.
Peel and chop six large onions, and put them into a stewpan with four ounces of butter and two Indian mangoes cut into shreds; on the top of these ingredient place the cut members or joints of a chicken previously fried in butter for the purpose, and set the whole to stew very leisurely over a slow fire for about three quarters of an hour. When done, arrange the pieces of chicken on some rice (as in No. 326) lightly piled in a dish, stir the sauce to mix it, and pour it over the pilau, and serve hot.
No. 328.—INDIAN POOLOOT.
Wash a pound of rice and parboil it ; then place the rice in a stewpan with a fowl trussed; moisten with a quart of water or stock, and the juice of six onions extracted by pounding in a mortar, and then wringing the juice with great pressure through a napkin ; season with a little salt and the juice of green ginger ; in the absence of this, boil a tablespoonful of ground ginger in a gill of water and the juice of a lemon, and strain it through muslin to the fowl. While the fowl is boiling, cut four onions in slices and fry them of a light colour, and keep them warm on a plate ; fry also a dozen small rashers of streaky bacon, curled round into balls, and fastened in shape with tiny wooden pegs. By this time the fowl will be done; remove it from the stew pan, and set the rice to dry in its stew pan in the screen. Cut up the fowl into members or joints. fry these in the butter the onions were fried in, and then dish up the pooloot in manner following: viz.,—first, pile up the rice in the centre of the dish, then the joints of fowl, next strew the fried onions over the top, strew also some stewed cardamums and peppercorns over this ; garnish the dish round its base alternately with slices of hard-boiled eggs and the rolls of fried bacon, and serve hot.
No. 329.—YARMOUTH BLOATERS.
Cut off the head and tail, split the bloater down the back, spread it out flat, and broil it on both sides over a clear sharp fire ; send to table with a pat of fresh butter and a thick captainʼs biscuit made hot in the oven or before the fire.
No. 330.—GRILLED KIPPERED SALMON.
Broil the piece of dried salmon ; rub it over with a pat of fresh butter and a little cayenne and lemon-juice. and serve hot.
No. 331.—DRIED HADDOCKS
Dip these in scalding water to enable you to remove the skin ; then broil them over a brisk fire, rub them over with fresh butter or a little rich cream, lemon juice and cayenne, and serve hot.
No. 332.—PULLED CRISP BREAD.
Take a hot loaf, pull out the crumb, and divide it into rocky-looking pieces by pulling it to pieces lightly and quickly with the fingers of both hands ; place the pieces of bread on a baking-sheet lined with paper, and bake them over again of a very light brown or fawn colour. To be perfect, the pulled bread must be quite crisp ; it is eaten chiefly with butter and cheese.
No. 333.—TOASTED CHEESE.
Cheddar is allowed to be the richest cheese, and is therefore the best adapted for toasting, from the fact that it is not so liable as other cheeses to become tough and uneatable before it is cold. Cut the cheese in flakes ; put it in a small silver or tin dish, made for the purpose, and which may be procured at Adams’ Ironmongery showrooms, Haymarket; set the cheese either in the oven or before the fire to toast or melt, and as soon as it becomes thoroughly dissolved, stir it together with a pat of butter, mignonette pepper, and a little made mustard ; and let it be eaten instantly with dry toast, or pulled bread.
No. 334.—CHEESE CANAPEES.
Cut some slices of stale bread about the twelfth part of an inch in thickness, stamp these out with a plain tin cutter of round, oval, or heart shape, and, having fried these croutons in a little clarified butter, of a light colour, dispose some pieces of cheese upon each, with a little mustard spread under the cheese, and season it with pepper ; push the canapees in a brisk oven or before a clear fire, and as soon as the cheese is melted, serve quite hot.
Note.—Toasted cheese served in this fashion is preferable to any other mode, owing to the fact that no time is lost in seasoning and conveying it to the toast.
No. 335.—ANCHOVY CANAPEES.
Procure a number of farthing rolls (any baker will make them to order). Cut these rolls into equal halves, scope out all the crumb, and lace the crusts to dry in the screen. Meanwhile chop fine,—hard-boiled eggs in quantity sufficient for the number of canapés to be filled; chop also some tarragon, chervil, and chives ; and prepare some fillets or strippets of cleaned anchovies. Put the chopped eggs and herbs into a basin, season with salad-oil and tarragon vinegar, pepper and salt; mix together, and with this fill up the prepared crusts ; ornament them by placing the fillets of anchovies over their surface in the fashion of lattice-work ; dish up the canapés on a napkin.
No. 336.—THE PRINCE OF WALES’ CANAPEES.
Procure the picked tails of fifty fine prawns, the fillets of a dozen anchovies, two mountain gherkins, a cleaned head of white celery, and two good truffles : let all these be cut in small neat squares, put into a basin with enough Prince of Wales’ sauce, No. 81, to season the ingredients; mix together, and fill a number of crusts of rolls as shown in No. 335, with this preparation ; cover their surface with a thin circular piece of bright aspic jelly, and dish them up on a napkin.
Note.—It has just struck me that these delicious canapés which I consider so worthy of the epicureʼs notice, under the patronage of the illustrious individual hose name I have ventured to borrow for their designation, may be advantageously variedly using in their confection, instead of prawns,— lobster, crab, shrimps, oysters, poultry, game, tongue, ham, turbot, sole, salmon, &e. And instead of, or in addition to celery, use any other kind of salad : and further, instead of a covering of aspic jelly, the canapees might be smoothly masked over with white mayonaise, No. 37, and a decoration formed either with truffle, lobster coral, beetroot, or the leaves of tarragon or chervil traced thereon, which would tend materially to enhance their appetising appearance. These canapés are admirably adapted for ball-suppers, &c.
No. 337. DEVILLED BISCUITS.
Any kind of thin biscuit is best suited for the purpose; soak it in pure Lucca-oil, strew cayenne or black pepper and salt; over both sides, and toast the biscuits over the fire on a gridiron.
No. 338.—ANCHOVY TOAST.
Prepare some very thin dry toast, which must be cut into oblong or square pieces about two inches in lengths before the toast becomes brittle, and again placed in the oven to be baked thoroughly crisp : spread these over with anchovy butter, No. 128, and upon this place the fillets of anchovies in the form of lattice·work, and serve on a napkin.
No. 339.—DEVILLED SALMON, &c.
Prepare some biscuits as in No. 337, and upon these place very thin slices of kippered salmon previously rubbed over with some devil mixture, No. 131; salamander or place them either in the oven or before the fire, and serve quite hot. Note.—These devils may be greatly varied by using,
instead of salmon-anchovies, sardines, bloaters, haddocks, or tunny.
No. 340.—DEVILLED GAME, &c.
Any kind of meat intended to be devilled for a relish or appetiser, or for the purpose of increasing the enjoyment of an extra glass of wine, should first be scored all over by making deep incisions across the pieces of game, &c., and rubbing over these some devil’s mixture, No. 131, until well saturated ; the meat, &c., must then be broiled crisp without being burnt.
No. 341.—TUNNY.
This is a fish caught only in the Mediterranean, and comes to this country preserved in oil ; its flesh somewhat resembles veal, and possesses a full sweet savour—something between the flavour of game and salmon. Tunny is served cut in thin slices and dished up in rows, surrounded with chopped parsley and capers, and a little salad-oil.
No. 342.—SARDINES.
These are a small fish resembling pilchards, and are caught in large shoals off the western coast of France ; the largest quantities. are preserved with oil in small square tin boxes at a place called Nantes—a very large town near the coast—whence sardines are imported to this country. When the box containing the sardines has been opened with a knife—sold for that purpose by Adams of the Haymarket, St. J ames’s—-remove them carefully, and arrange them neatly on a plate; garnish round with capers or chopped parsley ; pour a little fresh salad-oil over them, and serve with thin bread and butter.
No. 343.—ANCHOVIES.
These are also Mediterranean fish ; they are preserved in salt brine, and are much esteemed for their delicious and relishing qualities. They must be washed, wiped with a cloth, the fillets divided dextrously by splitting them down the back with the fingers and thumbs of both hands; the fillets must then be placed in neatly-arranged rows on a plate, garnished round with chopped hard-boiled egg, and salad-oi poured over them. Anchovies served in this manner are ever appreciated at the breakfast-table, or luncheon time ; and are considered rather agreeable accessories at the tea-table.
No. 344.—PICKLED FISH.
Any kind of fish left from a previous dayʼs dinner, may be pickled for breakfast, &c., by placing the best pieces in a deep dish with a little of the water in which the fish has been boiled, and adding thereto an equal quantity of vinegar, a sliced onion, some green fennel, pepper and salt: the fish should be turned over frequently in the pickle, in order thoroughly to saturate it with the seasoning,
No. 345.—PICKLED SALMON.
Split the salmon down the backbone, and divide the halves into pieces about two hands in width ; place these in an earthen pan, sprinkle each piece with salt, and black peppercorns ; pour in vinegar sufficient to cover them ; put the lid on and set the pan in the oven to bake the salmon ; and when done, place a piece of board or a dish on the pieces of salmon with a weight to press them down in their liquor until cold. When required for use, dish up a piece of salmon with some of the liquor; garnish round with fennel and serve it for dinner, luncheon, or supper.
No. 346.—SOUSED MACKEREL.
These are pickled whole ; they should be drawn and wiped, and treated in all other respects as recommended for salmon.
Herrings, pilchards, or sprats are prepared in the same manner.
No. 347.—OYSTERS.
Oysters should be served in their deep shells with their own liquor, and eaten with a fork ; cayenne pepper, quarters of lemon, brown bread and butter, form their most proper accomplishments.
No. 348.—DEVILLED OYSTERS.
Open the oysters in their deep shell, season them with a small piece butter, a little cayenne, salt. and lemon-juice ; place them on a gridiron over a brisk fire, and broil them for about three minutes. Serve with bread and butter.
No. 349.—PRAWNS.
Cut one end of a lemon so as to enable it to stand firmly on its base upon a folded napkin ; then stick the proboscis or horn of the prawns into the lemon-in circular rows—commencing at the base of the lemon ; and between each row of prawns fill in the vacuum with picked fresh parsley. Prawns dished up in this manner form a very pretty dish, suitable either for second course, breakfast, or supper.
No. 350.—OLIVES.
Olives are imported to this country from Spain, Portugal, Italy, and France ; those grown in the Lucca country are esteemed the most palatable : being perfectly sweet, and free from any strong flavour, they are served for dessert in glasses, with a little of their own liquor in which they are preserved. Olives being first peeled carefully from the stone, are filled in with pounded anchovy, and served with a little oil as an appetiser at the commencement of dinner, or handed round after cheese, the better to relish a glass of old port.
No. 351.—RUSSIAN KROMESKYS.
Parboil half a pound of fat bacon for twenty minutes, and when quite cold, cut it in to very thin shavings an inch and a half square, and use these to envelop as many ordinary-sized cork-shaped croquets, No. 315, as may be required for the occasion ; and set them on a dish in a cold place until it is time to serve them: the kromeskys are then to be separately dipped in batter, No. 288, and fried in clean hot lard ; and when done crisp are to be drained on a wire sieve covered with paper, dished up with fried parsley and served immediately.
Note.—Kromeskys are made with all kinds of croquet preparations, whether of meat, fish or shell-fish.
No. 352.—DUTCH HERRINGS.
These are imported from Holland, and are salted in small flat tubs. On the tub being first opened, the herrings are apt to emit a rather unpleasant odour, but this does not effect the flavour of the fish ; and when they have been washed and soaked in milk for a couple of hours, all unpleasantness is removed. Cut off the heads and tails of the herrings, and divide each into slices about half an inch thick—cut slantwise ; place these in a small dish, in their natural position ; garnish round with slices of hard-boiled eggs; pour some vinegaret sauce over them, and serve with the cheese. The vinegaret here alluded to is prepared as follows : viz.,—to two tablespoonfuls of salad·oil add one of tarragon vinegar, chopped parsley and shallot, pepper and salt, and mix.
No. 353.—CROQUETS OF MACARONI.
Stir half a pint of any kind of good sauce over the fire until reduced to half its original quantity ; then add three yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper, and a pinch of chopped shallot, a pinch of sugar and the juice of half a lemon; stir this again over the re to set the eggs in the sauce, and then add the following ingredients minced small and neatly : viz.,—a handful of boiled Genoa macaroni, two ounces of roast game, one ounce of lean ham, truffles, mushrooms; incorporate these with the sauce, and when set cold and firm, divide the preparation into equal small portions; mould these in the form of eggs ; egg and bread·crumb, and fry them in hot lard; and being dished up with fried parsley, serve hot.
No. 354.—ITALIAN POLPETTI.
Chop any kind of meat, whether roast or boiled, in Sufficient quantity to serve your purpose—in ordinary cases half a pound would be enough; to this add trail, or mushrooms, tongue, or ham, and two ounces of grated Parmesan or other cheese ; season with shalot, nutmeg, and a dessert-spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell’s Oude sauce. While the above is in course of preparation, have ready the same sauce as indicated for No. 353; incorporate the before-named ingredients therewith; make it all hot together over the fire, and spread it out on a dish evenly and square, to the thickness of a quarter of an inch; and as soon as cold and firm, cut it out with a plain tin round cutter an inch and a half in diameter ; push the trimmings together to form other Polpetti ; and having egged and bread-crumbed them, fry them in hot lard, and dish them up round some macaroni prepared with cheese and a little cream.
No. 355.—GERMAN SCHPEISCHLITZ.
Put about three of milk to boil with four ounces of butter in a stewpan, and as the milk rises, stir quickly into it six ounces of maize-f1our ; continue stir ring the paste over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stew pan ; it must then be removed from the fire, and three whole eggs, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, a little sugar, and some chopped parsley are to be vigorously worked in with the paste.
Next, poach the schpeischlitz in boiling milk with a little salt, in the form of teaspoon quenelles ; they will be done in about ten minutes ; they must be drained Immediately, and tossed lightly in some fried bread crumbs, fried for the purpose of a light colour, and served quite hot, with either grated Gruÿere cheese, or else cinnamon-sugar, separately, to gratify different tastes. Different sorts of preserves are also fit accompaniments to this dish, which may thus be served either as a sweet in the second course, or as a savoury to be handed round between the courses of fish and entrées.
No. 356.—GERMAN QUENELLES.
Prepare the maize-flour batter as in the foregoing case, adding thereto two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and leaving out the parsley; form the quenelles in tablespoons, introducing small balls of any kind of croquet-meat in their centre, which must be covered in with some of the batter, and neatly and securely fastened down, by smoothing over the surface with a small knife frequently dipped in hot water : the milk or water in which the quenelles are poached must not be allowed to boil at all, as that would cause the quenelles to burst ; they must merely simmer gently for about ten minutes ; and having ascertained that they are done, drain and set them to cool upon a dish ; and when cold, dip each quenelle separately in some reduced Allemande sauce; replace them in order on a dish to be left on the ice until they are become firm on the surface; they are then to be egged and bread-crumbed, fried in hot lard, dished on a folded napkin with fried parsley, and served hot.
No. 357.—BONNES-BOUCHES.
Take about half a pound of any kind of game—say the flesh of a grouse, partridge, rabbit, woodcock. or snipes, larks, &c.; cut this up in small squares, and it with an ounce of butter, a little ham, chopped truffle, mushrooms, parsley, and shalot; season with nutmeg, pepper and salt; and when done brown, pound thoroughly in the mortar with a good spoonful of sauce ; rub it through a wire sieve, and place the game purée thus produced in a small stew pan; add the yolks of four eggs, and the four whites whisked into a substantial froth; mix lightly, and with this preparation fill a dozen or more paper cases, see No. 325; egg over the tops with a paste-brush dipped in beaten white of egg, push them in a moderately-heated oven to bake for about twelve minutes, and as soon as done, dish up the bonnes-boucbes on a napkin, and serve immediately, for this delicate preparation is materially deteriorated in its lightness by being kept waiting any length of tic before it is eaten.
No. 358.—ADELAIDE SANDWICHES.
Cut up chicken and cooked ham, in the form of small squares or dice, in the proportion of two-thirds of chicken or fowl to one-third of ham. Next, stir two good tablespoonfuls of sauce with one spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell’s curry paste in a stewpan, and when it boils, add the chicken and ham; mix, and with this preparation make the sandwiches in manner following : viz.,—cut some thin slices of stale crumb of bread, stamp out these with a plain round tin cutter the size of a crown-piece, and fry them in clarified butter of a light-golden colour; between two of these croutons place a thick layer of the preparation; and as this is done, place them in order on a baking-sheet; then put upon the tops a round ball—the size of a small walnut composed of grated Parmesan cheese and butter in equal parts, and kneaded into a paste; push in the oven (brisk heat) for five minutes, dish up on a napkin, and serve as a second·course savoury dish.
Note.—These veiy delicious appetisers may be also prepared with equal success by using any kind of cooked fish or shell-fish, instead of game, &c.
No. 359.—VICTORIA SANDWICHES.
Cut thin brown bread and butter, and between two slices place alternate layers of thinly-sliced hard-boiled eggs, small salad or American cress, and cleansed fillets of anchovies ; divide these slices into small squares or oblongs, and serve them on a napkin, either for breakfast, luncheon, or supper.
No. 360.—BRETBY SANDWICHES.
Cut slices of white bread and butter from French rolls, and between two slices place alternate layers of very thin slices of roast fowl, shred lettuce-leaves, and fillets of anchovies ; dish up on a napkin, and serve.
No. 361.—IRISH SANDWICHES.
Between slices of very thin crisp toast place alternate layers of very thin slices of roast game, shred celery, and Tartar sauce; dish up on a napkin.
No. 362.—FISH SANDWICHZES.
Between slices of brown or white bread and butter place thin scollops of cooked fish of any kind you may happen to have most handy ; spread a little Tartar sauce over the pieces of fish, and strew some shred lettuce-leaves over all ; press the other slice of bread and butter upon this ; cut up the sandwiches in squares ; dish up, and serve.
Note.—Thin slices of hard-boiled eggs, or sliced Indian or common gherkins may also be added to the other in gradients.
No. 363.—THE PRINCEʼS SANDWICH.
Roast a pheasant, partridge, or grouse, and when cold, cut all the meat off, and mince it into very small and neatly-cut squares ; to this add a third proportion of truffle and tongue cut in the same manner, and mix both in some salmis sauce in which there has been incorporated a piece of good glaze ; set this preparation to become cold and firm upon ice, and then let it be cut out in shapes to suit the slices of bread and butter cut from small milk rolls.
No. 364.—SANDWICHES FOB BALL-SUPPERS.
Cut a number of thin scollops of either roast fowl, game, or of any kind of cooked Irish, or of tunny, lobster, or the tails of picked prawns, or crayfish : let the scollops of fowl be masked over with white mayonaise sauce, those of game masked with salmis sauce in which has been mixed some aspic jelly ; the scollops of fish masked over with mayonaise sauce coloured with chopped tarragon, chervil, and chives; and the scollops of lobster or prawns or Crayfish·tails masked with mayonaise sauce coloured with pounded lobster coral. Let the scollops so far prepared be adjusted upon thin croutons of fried bread of corresponding size and shape ; decorate their surface with truffle, white of hard egg, Indian pickle, or the leaves of tarragon or chervil: the details of this sort of decoration are to be stamped out with fancy tin cutters (to be obtained only at Adams’ kitchen utensil warerooms in the Haymarket, St. James’s). These sandwiches must then be dished in circular rows ; some Italian salad, No. 372, to be placed in the centre, ornamented round the base with aspic jelly. They are then to be served to the ladies as a dainty worthy of their appreciation.
No. 365.—ORDINARY SANDWICHES.
Between thin slices of bread and butter cut—either from half-quartern brown or French loaves or from rolls, place thin slices of beef, veal and ham, or bacon, mutton, poultry, or game ; in any case, the meat should be seasoned with pepper and salt, and English or French mustard; sliced pickles are sometimes added. When the sandwiches have been pressed with the hand, to make all ingredients adhere together, cut them in squares, dish up on a napkin, and serve.
SALADS IN GENERAL.
No. 366.—ENGLISH SALAD.
Rinse and immediately wipe with a soft cloth the leaves of a ripe coss-lettuce; split them down the stalk, and divide each half leaf into four pieces; place these in a salad-bowl with a few fresh-gathered leaves of green mint; season with one tablespoonful of salad-oil, two of vinegar, a dessert-spoonful of moist sugar, pepper and salt; mix and serve.
No. 367.—ANOTHER ENGLISH SALAD.
Take equal parts of lettuce, shred celery, water-cress, small salad, beetroot, and spring radishes ; thoroughly wash them for a few minutes, and when drained in a cloth, gather up the four corners into the right hand, and shake out all the water. Next, put the salad in a bowl ; season with equal proportions of oil and vinegar, two or three chopped green onions, pepper and salt ; mix and serve.
No. 368.—ANOTHER ENGLISH SALAD.
Prepare a salad composed as follows: viz.,—a cabbage lettuce, a head of endive, shred celery, and slices. of beetroot ; season with a salad mixture composed as follows : viz.,—place the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs in a basin with a teaspoonful of salt, ditto of made mustard and a little pepper ; with the back part of the bowl of a wooden spoon, bruise the yolks and mix in gradually with them a good tablespoonful of double cream; after which further incorporate therewith half a gill of salad oil and a couple of spoonfuls of vinegar ; the sauce finished, use it as directed above.
No. 369.—CUCUMBER SALAD.
First peel and then cut the cucumber in thin slices ; season with equal parts of salad·oil and vinegar, and also equal parts of pepper and salt. The addition of a few very thin slices of raw onion renders raw cucumber less indigestible.
No. 370.—A FRENCH SALAD.
It is not customary in France to mix different kinds of salads in the same bowl. While I am bound to admit that this difference in custom is mainly the result of taste ; I humbly submit that, inasmuch as the admixture of small salad, or endive, or American cress, with either kinds of lettuce—independently of the fact that the one kills the flavour of the other—destroys the character of a French salad; it also interferes with the variety of salads.
Although a French salad should consist of one kind only, it must also be rigorously borne in mind that the salad must never be allowed to soak in water, but merely to be rinsed, and gently wiped or shaken in a cloth (in France they use very light wicker-baskets for this purpose). The lettuce should be split down the stalk, each piece divided in three or four, at most ; and the salad being completed, is to be seasoned in manner following: viz.,—to half a gill of salad-oil add a table spoonful of tarragon vinegar, a small teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper, some coarsely-chopped tarragon, chervil, and chives, or spring-onions. The seasoning should be mixed in a separate basin, poured to the salad first before using it, and lightly yet thoroughly mixed.
Note.—In order to relieve the apparent monotony of French salads, it may be well to observe, that monkʼs beard, or dandelion, or endives, or escaroles, are usually mixed with beetroot, also with corn-salad when in season.
No. 371.—BEETROOT AND SPANISH ONION SALAD.
Bake or boil a Spanish onion whole, and when cold, cut it in slices, and dish them ultimately with slices of boiled or baked beetroot ; pour over the salad a seasoning composed of two spoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, some chopped parsley, pepper and salt.
Note.—This kind of salad is specially adapted to be eaten with roast or braised meats.
No. 372.—ITALIAN SALAD.
Italian salads are composed of every variety of raw salads, added to all kinds of meat or fish, and cooked vegetables; and also of tunny, anchovies. olives capers, and pickles.
Cut two cold potatoes and half a beetroot in slices half an inch thick, punch these out with a long tin vegetable cutter, and put them into a basin with equal quantities of green peas, heads of asparagus, buds of cauliflower or brocoli, small Windsor beans, cut French beans, boiled celery, seakale, Brussels sprouts, cooked haricot beans or lentils. Let it be clearly understood that, although every kind of vegetable named above form component parts of an Italian salad, yet it is not intended that they should all be used for that purpose at one and the same time : due regard must be had to what is in season, without losing sight of the fact that, in all cases. it is essential to study economy and convenience :—thus, for instance, beetroot and potatoes being at all times easily obtained, let these and some kind of salad in season be mixed in equal proportions ; to these add any three or four sorts of cooked vegetables you may happen to have, a little shred ham, fowl or game, tunny, anchovies, pickles, or olives ; season with vinegar or Tartar sauce, mix lightly together, and serve in a salad-bowl.
Note.—These salads are also used for garnishing aspic borders, and cold entrées of fish.
No. 373.—SPANISH SALAD.
Cut two or three ripe tomatas in slices, and dish them up in a circular row in a salad·bowl or dish; fill the centre with either small Windsor beans, French beans, garbanças or Spanish peas, pickled button-onions, large green peas, or haricot beans: all, or any of these, to suit convenience and taste, should be gently mixed with some mayonaise sauce : the salad when finished is to be sauced over with vinegar,—the ordinary seasoning for French salads.
No. 374.—RUSSIAN SALAD.
This is composed of cooked carrots, beetroot, parsnips, either punched or scooped in shapes, or merely out in neatly-formed squares or oblongs ; to these add, common gherkins also cut, a few capers, some scraped horseradish, lobster or prawns, or ham, or any kind of meat cut up in small squares; season with mayonaise, vinegar, or Tartar sauce ; and when dished up either in a bowl, or in an aspic, or cold vegetable border, garnish the surface of the salad with very small round balls of Russian caviare, to be obtained at Crosse and Blackwel1’s, Soho-square.
No. 375.—FLEMISH SALAD.
Prepare two Dutch herrings as indicated in No. 352; and to these pieces of herrings add two apples peeled and shred, some beetroot and potatoes cut in squares, a few Brussels sprouts, a few green onions, and picked shrimps, and some curled celery; season with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt. The vegetables must be cooked.
Note.—Any kind of dried or pickled fish may be substituted for herrings, if preferred.
No. 376.—GERMAN SALAD.
Cut cold potatoes, Brussels sprouts, seakale, cauliflower, or brocoli, or any kind of boiled cabbage, in slices; season with oil and vinegar, pepper and salt, and chopped parsley. Beetroot and shred raw apples may also be added.
No. 377.—CAZANOVA SALAD.
Shred the white stalks of two heads of celery in inch lengths, and put these in a salad-bowl with the whites of three hard-boiled eggs, also shred ; season with white mayonaise sauce, and a little shallot; strew over the surface of the salad the yolks of hard eggs previously rubbed through a wire sieve for the purpose.
No. 378.—SALAD À LA RACHEL.
Prepare the shred celery and eggs as in the foregoing case ; season them with Prince of Wales’ sauce, No. 81, pile up lightly in the salad-bowl, garnish round the base of the salad with thin slices of German sausage or ham ; sprinkle over the surface, first, the powdered yolks of eggs, and next, some black truffles shred fine. This has a very charming effect, and is considered a wonderful stimulant.
No. 379.—VEGETABLE SALADS.
Any kind of cooked cold vegetables serves the purpose; either sort may be mixed together in the same salad, and for variety sake, or according to taste, any kind of salad, or meat, or fish, may be added ; season with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, with or without onion or shallot, to suit your fancy.
No. 380.—HAMBORO’ SALAD.
Prepare a salad composed of any kind of lettuce, endive, celery, &c. ; to this add a few slices of young potatoes, apple, smoked salmon, and anchovies ; season with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt ; and strew lightly over the surface some grated Hamboro' beef ; garnish round with slices of hard-boiled eggs.
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Francatelli's Chapter VI: Appetisers for Breakfast, or Light Suppers, &c.
CHAPTER VI.
APPETISERS FOR BREAKFAST, OR LIGHT SUPPERS, &c.
ON the continent of Europe these are generally denominated "hors-d'oeuvres," and are mostly eaten before dinner or breakfast, to stimulate the appetite ; hence it is that I have here applied to them the term "appetiser."
Boil a pound of rice as indicated in No. 227 ; fry it in a stew pan or saucepan, with a little fresh butter and a spoonful of Captain White’s excellent curry paste; stir lightly together, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Curried Rice.
Fry the boiled rice with a little butter, cayenne, and saffron powder; season with a little salt, and throw in a handful of cleaned Smyrna raisins; serve quite hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Rice, Turkish Fashion.
Cut an onion into very thin slices, and fry them in a saucepan with a pat of butter ; then add about two ounces of cooked ham cut into shreds, and also the boiled rice; season with a pinch of cayenne pepper, and a spoonful of grated cheese , stir altogether lightly over the fire, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Rice, Polish Fashion.
Chop a small onion very fine, and fry it in a saucepan with an ounce of butter ; then add half a pound of boiled rice dry, and the pulp of three baked potatoes ; season with an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, and a pinch of cayenne and salt; pile up the rice in a hot dish; strew over the surface some cleansed fillets of anchovies or sardines, and send to table quite hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Rice, Piedmontese Fashion.
Fry the boiled rice in a saucepan with a piece of butter ; season with grated Parmesan or other cheese ; add any remains of dressed fowl, game, tongue, ham, or truffle, prawns, lobster, or any kind of meat or fish most convenient; any or several of these may be used together, and should be cut for the purpose into shreds or squares ; season with a little nutmeg, pepper and salt;serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Rice, Milanese Fashion.
Chop and fry an onion with a spoonful of salad-oil or a pat of butter ; to this add half a pint of picked shrimps, crayfish, or prawns ; add a dessertspoonful of curry paste or powder ; fry altogether for a few minutes, then add the boiled rice and a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese; serve quite hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Rice, Florentine Fashion.
Fry the boiled rice in saucepan, with a spoonful of salad-oil or an ounce of butter, until it assumes a very light golden colour ; then add either a large tablespoonful of Crosse and Blackwellʼs tomata sauce, or, if in season, a couple of ripe tomatas (previously squeezed to free them from seeds and watery juice) ; season with Spanish sweet pepper and a little grated cheese ; pile up lightly in a hot dish ; garnish it round with grilled Spanish choruses, or, if unable to procure these, use in their stead thin slices of ham, bacon, Bologna, German, or any kind of sausage; or thin strippets of smoked salmon, or Finnon Haddies, or herrings, or pilchards, &c.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Rice, Spanish Fashion.
First prepare the raviolis as shown in No. 167; and when drained, place them neatly arranged in a dish, with alternate layers of Parmesan cheese; sprinkle a little dissolved fresh butter over the surface; set the dish in the oven for a quarter of an hour; pour about a gill of rich brown game sauce or gravy to the raviolis, and serve quite hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Raviolis à la Napolitaine.
To half a pint of water add three ounces of fresh butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt ; set this to boil in a stewpan over the fire, and as soon as the ebullition rises, mix into it six ounces of flour; stir this paste briskly over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stew pan; then mix in two whole eggs and the yolks of two others, and also two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese. Having vigorously worked this paste, proceed to roll it out in the shape of very small corks, with flour strewn upon the table; parboil these for ten minutes, and having drained them upon a sieve, finish the gnocchi as directed for raviolis, No. 308.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Roman Gnocci.
Fry the boiled dry rice with a little fresh butter, nutmeg, pepper and salt ; and when quite hot, add the whites of three hard-boiled eggs shred fine, and the white parts of a dried haddock ; pile all this up lightly in a hot dish ; strew over the cone the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs previously rubbed through a wire sieve, and mixed with a little grated Parmesan cheese; garnish the rice round the base with fried croutons of bread push in the oven far five minutes—just to slightly colour the surface of a golden hue, and serve immediately.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Rice à la Sœur Nightingale.
Parboil and beard two dozen oysters ; dip each separately in batter, No. 288; drop them into some hot frying fat, and when done crisp, and drained upon a cloth, dish them up with fried parsley on a folded napkin, and serve hot. Fried muscles are served in the same way.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Fried Oysters.
Trim neatly into round or oval scollops any kind of cooked poultry, game, meat or fish; dip these in good Allemande sauce, No. 17; place them on a dish over the ice, and when set cold and firm, dip each piece in beaten egg ; roll them in bread-crumbs, and try them in hot frying fat ; dish them up on a folded napkin, garnish with fried parsley, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Scollops of Meat or Fish.
To half a pound of boiled rice add two spoonfuls of good white sauce, three yolks of raw eggs, nutmeg, pepper and salt; stir this over the fire for five minutes to set the eggs, then put it to cool ; and when cold, take a tablespoonful of the preparation, spread it out hollow with a teaspoon, and insert in the hollow a teaspoonful of any kind of croquet meat ; envelop it in the rice ; egg and bread-crumb the rizzolletti ; fry them in hot frying fat, of a light colour; dish them up neatly with fried parsley, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Rizzolletti.
Take about half a pound of trimmings of puff paste ; give it three turns or folds ; roll it out to the thickness of a new penny piece; place small balls of croquet meat at distances of about two inches from each other; moisten the paste round these with a brush dipped in water; fold the flap of the front part of the paste over the balls; press all round them with the edge of the thumb; cut them out with a fluted round tin cutter, and, as you do so, place the rissoles upon a floured dish : thus having cut out a sufficient number for your purpose, fry them in hot fat; dish them up with fried parsley, on a napkin, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Rissoles.
Either chop neatly, or else cut up into very small squares, poultry, game, beef, mutton, lamb, veal, or any kind of firm fish left from a previous day`s dinner. If the croquets are to be made of any kind of meat, tongue, ham, mushrooms, or trails may be added ; put whatever is intended to be used for the rissoles into a saucepan with a small proportion of white sauce, three yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper and salt, and a pinch of chopped chives or shalot; stir this over the fire for a few minutes to set the eggs in the croquet meat ; and then spread it out an inch thick upon a plate, and set it to get cold and firm in a cool place ; it must next be divided into parts resembling large walnuts, rolled in bread-crumbs to enable you to shape it in the form of corks, pears, or balls ; again dipped in beaten egg ; rolled smooth in bread·crumbs; placed in a wire frying basket, and fried in hot frying fat of a light colour, and dished on a napkin with fried parsley.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Croquets of Meat or Fish.
Boil the hard roe of a salmon or of any other fish — such as cod, pike, &c., and when done, drain and set it to become cold. It must then be cut in slices with a sharp knife, egged and bread-crumbed, fried in butter in a saucepan, and dished up with fried parsley, and eaten with Tartar sauce, No. 38.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Fried Salmon Roe.
Break up a fresh lobster, take all the meat carefully out of the shells, and mince it small ; then put the bruised coral and spawn into a saucepan with two spoonfuls of white sauce and three yolks of eggs, a little nutmeg, cayenne, and anchovy ; stir all this over the fire with a wooden spoon to set the egg firm in the mixture, and when this is accomplished, turn the croquet meat out on a plate and set it to cool, and finish as directed in No. 315.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Lobster Croquets.
Scald and beard two dozen oysters, cut each oyster into about four or six pieces, and set these aside on a plate. Next, with their liquor make some oyster sauce as in No. 43 ; reduce the sauce by boiling down over the fire—stirring it the while to give it consistency ; add a bit of glaze and three yolks of eggs, a little cayenne, lemon-juice, and anchovy ; and having stirred the sauce again over the fire to set the eggs, add the cut-up oysters; stir these in to mix them with the sauce, and make the oysters hot through, for unless this precaution is duly attended to, the composition is likely to decompose, which circumstance renders it difficult to handle while moulding the croquets; for finishing these, see No. 315.
Note.—Croquets may also be prepared with shrimps, prawns, sweetbreads, ox-palates, fat livers, &c.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Oyster Croquets.
Procure a marrow-bone, or get the butcher to break the bone for you—as this is rather an awkward affair for ladies; cut the marrow into small pieces the size of a filbert, and just parboil them in boiling water with a little salt for one minute ; it must then be instantly drained upon a sieve, seasoned with a little chopped parsley, pepper and salt, lemon-juice, and a mere suspicion of shalot ; toss lightly altogether, spread it out upon squares of hot crisp dry toast, and serve immediately.
Note.—Marrow toast used to be eaten every day at diner by the Queen at the time when I had the honour of waiting on Her Majesty.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Marrow Toast à la Victoria.
Marrow-bones worth dressing in this manner are those only which come out of the centre of a round of beef, or from any part of the legs or shins : they should be sawed into halves crosswise, the thick ends chopped into shape, so as to make them stand straight, the open end of each bone covered with flour-and-water paste : the bones, placed upright in a deep stewpan containing hot water reaching half way up the bones, are to be boiled covered with the stewpan lid for about half an hour ; when done, remove the paste, envelop each bone with a napkin or cut paper, and send to table accompanied by hot crisp dry toast.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Marrow-Bones.
Prepare the marrow as shown in No. 319, fill the patties with this, having first added thereto some reduced fine herbs sauce, No. 74.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Marrow Patties.
Take a square-shaped crummy stale half-quartern loaf ; pare away all the crust ; cut the crumb into slices an inch and a half in thickness, and with a plain round tin cutter an inch and a half in diameter, cut out a dozen circular pieces; these must be cut all round one end by making an incision with the point of a root knife in a ring up to within a quarter of an inch of the edge; these prepared pieces of bread must be fried in hot frying fat, of a light colour, and when done, the incised disk will be easily removed, as also the crumb from the interior. The croustades are to be filled with the marrow as prepared in No. 321.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Marrow Croustades.
Ingredients :—One pound of flour, one pound of butter, the yolk of an egg, the juice of a lemon, a teaspoonful of salt, and about half a pint of water. Process :—Place the flour on the pastry slab, spread it out in the centre so as to form a well, in which place the salt, a small bit of butter, the yolk of egg, the lemon-juice, and two-thirds of the water required to mix the paste ; you now spread out the fingers of the right hand and mix the ingredients together gradually with the tips of the fingers, adding a little more water, if necessary ; when the whole is thoroughly incorporated together, sprinkle a few drops of water on it, and work the sponge to and fro on the slab for two minutes, after which the paste should be elastic—soft and smooth as satin—to the touch.
The paste thus far prepared must now be spread out with the bent knuckles of the right hand on the slab ; and having pressed the butter in a cloth to extract any milk it may contain, place it in the centre of the paste, and partially spread it by pressing on it with a cloth; the four sides should then be folded over so as entirely to cover the butter ; shake a little flour over and under it; shape the paste in a square form measuring about ten inches each way; place this on a baking-sheet on the ice, and a saucepan filled with rough ice set upon the paste to keep it cool and firm. About ten minutes after the paste has been thus far prepared, roll it out on the slab with a rolling-pin, and shaking some flour lightly and sparingly over and under the paste to prevent it from sticking either to the rolling-pin or slab, and having rolled the paste out to exactly thirty inches in length, fold it in three equal folds ; press these together by running the rolling-pin over the paste ; turn it round and roll it out again the reverse way, in the same manner and length as before; fold it in three equally ; fasten these folds by running the rolling-pin over them with pressure, and set the paste back on the ice to rest for eight or ten minutes ; at the end of this time give two other turns as just described, and having again rested for other ten minutes, it must receive two or three more turns previously to its being cut out for baking.
The next thing to be done is, when after the last turn has been given to the paste, and it has been rolled out to the thickness of the sixth of an inch, and has been allowed to rest upon the ice for about three minutes, with a plain or fluted round tin patty cutter, just dipped in hot water, stamp out as many patties as you require ; place these on a baking-sheet previously moistened over with a brush dipped in water; press each down in its place with the fingers, egg over their surfaces, and with another plain tin round cutter less in diameter than the one with which the patties have been stamped out—this also dipped in very hot water,—make a circular incision in the centre of the patty ; push the sheet in a rather brisk oven, and bake them for about twenty minutes; and when done, it will be an easy matter to remove the tops and the crumb from the interior with a small-pointed root knife.
Note.—The use of rough ice in making puff paste is absolutely necessary during the summer months only ; during cold weather it may be dispensed with.
The patties being made according to the foregoing directions, are to be filled just before going to table with any of the different kinds of minces of poultry, game, or other meats, as also with all sorts of shell and other fish, prepared as in Nos. 315, 317, 318, and 321.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Puff-paste Patties.
Cut the lean part of a pound of loin of mutton into very small squares, season this with chopped mush rooms, parsley, and shallot, pepper and salt, and a little brown sauce or gravy, of any kind most convenient; mix altogether in a basin. Next, line some tartlet or patty-pans with short paste made without sugar ; fill these with some of the prepared mince ; cover them over with a top, press and pinch them round the edge ; egg them over ; place a stamped ornament on the top of the attics ; make a very small hole in the centre for ventilation, to prevent their bursting while baking ; push them in the oven on a baking-sheet for about twenty minutes; and when done, dish them on a napkin and send to table.
Note.—Small patties made as directed above, either with chicken or veal and ham, any kind of game or meat; or filled with any of the great variety of preparations for making croquets, they form an agreeable change for the dinner-table, and are also calculated to become favourite accessories to picnics or race-course luncheons, as well as welcome additions to the sportsman’s basket of prog.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Mutton Pies à la Windsor.
It is necessary for the preparation of these delicious morsels to practise making small, plaited, or square paper cases, about the size of a crown-piece ; these are easily enough made by paying attention to the following instructions : viz.,—cut pieces of note·paper into squares measuring three inches on all four sides; double this in two, equally, and fold each side into three reversed plaits; then turn back the outer leaves ; turn back the corners equally and correctly ; fold the ends ; pass the thumb with pressure on the edges ; open the centre ; pinch the corners, and the case will then stand up erect. The round plaited cases are made with circular pieces of paper of about the same dimensions as the former ; and after being plaited all round to the depth of an inch and a half, are pushed into a round wooden box, and being forced into it by means of a circular wedge of wood made to fit the hollow tightly, and the edge of the paper being twisted under with the back part of the blade of a small knife, the case will have received its accomplished form. The cases must be slightly oiled inside and out, and filled with any kinds of meat, shell fish, or other fish, minced or scolloped, and finished with sauce, &c., as directed for the preparation of croquet meats ; covered over with fried bread-crumbs, made hot in the oven for a few minutes, dished up on napkins, and sent to table quite hot.
Note.—These trilfles form a very fashionable addition to the first course of a dinner.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Savoury Trifles.
Roast off a chicken, and when done, remove all the meat from the bones in large neatly-out slices, and set these aside on a plate with the chicken bones, a bit of ham, thyme, shallot, two cloves, a glass of sherry, and a pint of stock or water, boiled gently for half an hour ; make an essence, which after being strained must be further boiled down to the value of a gill, and kept in reserve. While the fore part of the preparation is going on, wash and parboil for five minutes a pound of rice, drain it free from water, and put it into a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and stir this over a brisk fire until the rice acquires equally in every grain a light-fawn colour ; then add a pint and a half of stock or water, cayenne pepper, and the juice extracted from three pennyworth of saffron, by boiling it with a little water ; put the lid on the stew pan, and set the rice to boil, or rather simmer, very gently over a slow fire for about three-quarters of an hour ; by the end of this time the rice being done, stir it lightly with a fork, to detach the grains from each other, adding a little curry powder ; pile the rice up in a dish ; place the pieces of fowl kept in reserve, and which have been warmed in the essence—also reserved for that purpose ; crown the whole with a group of stewed Sultana raisins, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Turkish Pilau.
Peel and chop six large onions, and put them into a stewpan with four ounces of butter and two Indian mangoes cut into shreds; on the top of these ingredient place the cut members or joints of a chicken previously fried in butter for the purpose, and set the whole to stew very leisurely over a slow fire for about three quarters of an hour. When done, arrange the pieces of chicken on some rice (as in No. 326) lightly piled in a dish, stir the sauce to mix it, and pour it over the pilau, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Indian Pilau.
Wash a pound of rice and parboil it ; then place the rice in a stewpan with a fowl trussed; moisten with a quart of water or stock, and the juice of six onions extracted by pounding in a mortar, and then wringing the juice with great pressure through a napkin ; season with a little salt and the juice of green ginger ; in the absence of this, boil a tablespoonful of ground ginger in a gill of water and the juice of a lemon, and strain it through muslin to the fowl. While the fowl is boiling, cut four onions in slices and fry them of a light colour, and keep them warm on a plate ; fry also a dozen small rashers of streaky bacon, curled round into balls, and fastened in shape with tiny wooden pegs. By this time the fowl will be done; remove it from the stew pan, and set the rice to dry in its stew pan in the screen. Cut up the fowl into members or joints. fry these in the butter the onions were fried in, and then dish up the pooloot in manner following: viz.,—first, pile up the rice in the centre of the dish, then the joints of fowl, next strew the fried onions over the top, strew also some stewed cardamums and peppercorns over this ; garnish the dish round its base alternately with slices of hard-boiled eggs and the rolls of fried bacon, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Indian Pooloot.
Cut off the head and tail, split the bloater down the back, spread it out flat, and broil it on both sides over a clear sharp fire ; send to table with a pat of fresh butter and a thick captainʼs biscuit made hot in the oven or before the fire.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Yarmouth Bloaters.
Broil the piece of dried salmon ; rub it over with a pat of fresh butter and a little cayenne and lemon-juice. and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Grilled Kippered Salmon.
Dip these in scalding water to enable you to remove the skin ; then broil them over a brisk fire, rub them over with fresh butter or a little rich cream, lemon juice and cayenne, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Dried Haddocks.
Take a hot loaf, pull out the crumb, and divide it into rocky-looking pieces by pulling it to pieces lightly and quickly with the fingers of both hands ; place the pieces of bread on a baking-sheet lined with paper, and bake them over again of a very light brown or fawn colour. To be perfect, the pulled bread must be quite crisp ; it is eaten chiefly with butter and cheese.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Pulled Crisp Bread.
Cheddar is allowed to be the richest cheese, and is therefore the best adapted for toasting, from the fact that it is not so liable as other cheeses to become tough and uneatable before it is cold. Cut the cheese in flakes ; put it in a small silver or tin dish, made for the purpose, and which may be procured at Adams’ Ironmongery showrooms, Haymarket; set the cheese either in the oven or before the fire to toast or melt, and as soon as it becomes thoroughly dissolved, stir it together with a pat of butter, mignonette pepper, and a little made mustard ; and let it be eaten instantly with dry toast, or pulled bread.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Toasted Cheese.
Cut some slices of stale bread about the twelfth part of an inch in thickness, stamp these out with a plain tin cutter of round, oval, or heart shape, and, having fried these croutons in a little clarified butter, of a light colour, dispose some pieces of cheese upon each, with a little mustard spread under the cheese, and season it with pepper ; push the canapees in a brisk oven or before a clear fire, and as soon as the cheese is melted, serve quite hot.
Note.—Toasted cheese served in this fashion is preferable to any other mode, owing to the fact that no time is lost in seasoning and conveying it to the toast.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Cheese Canapés.
Procure a number of farthing rolls (any baker will make them to order). Cut these rolls into equal halves, scope out all the crumb, and lace the crusts to dry in the screen. Meanwhile chop fine,—hard-boiled eggs in quantity sufficient for the number of canapés to be filled; chop also some tarragon, chervil, and chives ; and prepare some fillets or strippets of cleaned anchovies. Put the chopped eggs and herbs into a basin, season with salad-oil and tarragon vinegar, pepper and salt; mix together, and with this fill up the prepared crusts ; ornament them by placing the fillets of anchovies over their surface in the fashion of lattice-work ; dish up the canapés on a napkin.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Anchovy Canapés.
Procure the picked tails of fifty fine prawns, the fillets of a dozen anchovies, two mountain gherkins, a cleaned head of white celery, and two good truffles : let all these be cut in small neat squares, put into a basin with enough Prince of Wales’ sauce, No. 81, to season the ingredients; mix together, and fill a number of crusts of rolls as shown in No. 335, with this preparation ; cover their surface with a thin circular piece of bright aspic jelly, and dish them up on a napkin.
Note.—It has just struck me that these delicious canapés which I consider so worthy of the epicureʼs notice, under the patronage of the illustrious individual hose name I have ventured to borrow for their designation, may be advantageously variedly using in their confection, instead of prawns,— lobster, crab, shrimps, oysters, poultry, game, tongue, ham, turbot, sole, salmon, &e. And instead of, or in addition to celery, use any other kind of salad : and further, instead of a covering of aspic jelly, the canapees might be smoothly masked over with white mayonaise, No. 37, and a decoration formed either with truffle, lobster coral, beetroot, or the leaves of tarragon or chervil traced thereon, which would tend materially to enhance their appetising appearance. These canapés are admirably adapted for ball-suppers, &c.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Prince of Wales' Canapés.
Any kind of thin biscuit is best suited for the purpose; soak it in pure Lucca-oil, strew cayenne or black pepper and salt; over both sides, and toast the biscuits over the fire on a gridiron.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Devilled Biscuits.
Prepare some very thin dry toast, which must be cut into oblong or square pieces about two inches in lengths before the toast becomes brittle, and again placed in the oven to be baked thoroughly crisp : spread these over with anchovy butter, No. 128, and upon this place the fillets of anchovies in the form of lattice·work, and serve on a napkin.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Anchovy Toast.
Prepare some biscuits as in No. 337, and upon these place very thin slices of kippered salmon previously rubbed over with some devil mixture, No. 131; salamander or place them either in the oven or before the fire, and serve quite hot. Note.—These devils may be greatly varied by using,
instead of salmon-anchovies, sardines, bloaters, haddocks, or tunny.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Devilled Salmon.
Any kind of meat intended to be devilled for a relish or appetiser, or for the purpose of increasing the enjoyment of an extra glass of wine, should first be scored all over by making deep incisions across the pieces of game, &c., and rubbing over these some devil’s mixture, No. 131, until well saturated ; the meat, &c., must then be broiled crisp without being burnt.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Devilled Game.
This is a fish caught only in the Mediterranean, and comes to this country preserved in oil ; its flesh somewhat resembles veal, and possesses a full sweet savour—something between the flavour of game and salmon. Tunny is served cut in thin slices and dished up in rows, surrounded with chopped parsley and capers, and a little salad-oil.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Tunny.
These are a small fish resembling pilchards, and are caught in large shoals off the western coast of France ; the largest quantities. are preserved with oil in small square tin boxes at a place called Nantes—a very large town near the coast—whence sardines are imported to this country. When the box containing the sardines has been opened with a knife—sold for that purpose by Adams of the Haymarket, St. J ames’s—-remove them carefully, and arrange them neatly on a plate; garnish round with capers or chopped parsley ; pour a little fresh salad-oil over them, and serve with thin bread and butter.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Sardines.
These are also Mediterranean fish ; they are preserved in salt brine, and are much esteemed for their delicious and relishing qualities. They must be washed, wiped with a cloth, the fillets divided dextrously by splitting them down the back with the fingers and thumbs of both hands; the fillets must then be placed in neatly-arranged rows on a plate, garnished round with chopped hard-boiled egg, and salad-oi poured over them. Anchovies served in this manner are ever appreciated at the breakfast-table, or luncheon time ; and are considered rather agreeable accessories at the tea-table.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Anchovies.
Any kind of fish left from a previous dayʼs dinner, may be pickled for breakfast, &c., by placing the best pieces in a deep dish with a little of the water in which the fish has been boiled, and adding thereto an equal quantity of vinegar, a sliced onion, some green fennel, pepper and salt: the fish should be turned over frequently in the pickle, in order thoroughly to saturate it with the seasoning,
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Pickled Fish.
Split the salmon down the backbone, and divide the halves into pieces about two hands in width ; place these in an earthen pan, sprinkle each piece with salt, and black peppercorns ; pour in vinegar sufficient to cover them ; put the lid on and set the pan in the oven to bake the salmon ; and when done, place a piece of board or a dish on the pieces of salmon with a weight to press them down in their liquor until cold. When required for use, dish up a piece of salmon with some of the liquor; garnish round with fennel and serve it for dinner, luncheon, or supper.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Pickled Salmon.
These are pickled whole ; they should be drawn and wiped, and treated in all other respects as recommended for salmon.
Herrings, pilchards, or sprats are prepared in the same manner.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Soused Mackerel.
Oysters should be served in their deep shells with their own liquor, and eaten with a fork ; cayenne pepper, quarters of lemon, brown bread and butter, form their most proper accomplishments.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Oysters.
Open the oysters in their deep shell, season them with a small piece butter, a little cayenne, salt. and lemon-juice ; place them on a gridiron over a brisk fire, and broil them for about three minutes. Serve with bread and butter.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Devilled Oysters.
Cut one end of a lemon so as to enable it to stand firmly on its base upon a folded napkin ; then stick the proboscis or horn of the prawns into the lemon-in circular rows—commencing at the base of the lemon ; and between each row of prawns fill in the vacuum with picked fresh parsley. Prawns dished up in this manner form a very pretty dish, suitable either for second course, breakfast, or supper.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Prawns.
Olives are imported to this country from Spain, Portugal, Italy, and France ; those grown in the Lucca country are esteemed the most palatable : being perfectly sweet, and free from any strong flavour, they are served for dessert in glasses, with a little of their own liquor in which they are preserved. Olives being first peeled carefully from the stone, are filled in with pounded anchovy, and served with a little oil as an appetiser at the commencement of dinner, or handed round after cheese, the better to relish a glass of old port.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Olives.
Parboil half a pound of fat bacon for twenty minutes, and when quite cold, cut it in to very thin shavings an inch and a half square, and use these to envelop as many ordinary-sized cork-shaped croquets, No. 315, as may be required for the occasion ; and set them on a dish in a cold place until it is time to serve them: the kromeskys are then to be separately dipped in batter, No. 288, and fried in clean hot lard ; and when done crisp are to be drained on a wire sieve covered with paper, dished up with fried parsley and served immediately.
Note.—Kromeskys are made with all kinds of croquet preparations, whether of meat, fish or shell-fish.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Russian Kromeskys.
These are imported from Holland, and are salted in small flat tubs. On the tub being first opened, the herrings are apt to emit a rather unpleasant odour, but this does not effect the flavour of the fish ; and when they have been washed and soaked in milk for a couple of hours, all unpleasantness is removed. Cut off the heads and tails of the herrings, and divide each into slices about half an inch thick—cut slantwise ; place these in a small dish, in their natural position ; garnish round with slices of hard-boiled eggs; pour some vinegaret sauce over them, and serve with the cheese. The vinegaret here alluded to is prepared as follows : viz.,—to two tablespoonfuls of salad·oil add one of tarragon vinegar, chopped parsley and shallot, pepper and salt, and mix.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Dutch Herrings.
Stir half a pint of any kind of good sauce over the fire until reduced to half its original quantity ; then add three yolks of eggs, nutmeg, pepper, and a pinch of chopped shallot, a pinch of sugar and the juice of half a lemon; stir this again over the re to set the eggs in the sauce, and then add the following ingredients minced small and neatly : viz.,—a handful of boiled Genoa macaroni, two ounces of roast game, one ounce of lean ham, truffles, mushrooms; incorporate these with the sauce, and when set cold and firm, divide the preparation into equal small portions; mould these in the form of eggs ; egg and bread·crumb, and fry them in hot lard; and being dished up with fried parsley, serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Croquets of Macaroni.
Chop any kind of meat, whether roast or boiled, in Sufficient quantity to serve your purpose—in ordinary cases half a pound would be enough; to this add trail, or mushrooms, tongue, or ham, and two ounces of grated Parmesan or other cheese ; season with shalot, nutmeg, and a dessert-spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell’s Oude sauce. While the above is in course of preparation, have ready the same sauce as indicated for No. 353; incorporate the before-named ingredients therewith; make it all hot together over the fire, and spread it out on a dish evenly and square, to the thickness of a quarter of an inch; and as soon as cold and firm, cut it out with a plain tin round cutter an inch and a half in diameter ; push the trimmings together to form other Polpetti ; and having egged and bread-crumbed them, fry them in hot lard, and dish them up round some macaroni prepared with cheese and a little cream.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Italian Polpetti.
Put about three of milk to boil with four ounces of butter in a stewpan, and as the milk rises, stir quickly into it six ounces of maize-f1our ; continue stir ring the paste over the fire until it ceases to adhere to the sides of the stew pan ; it must then be removed from the fire, and three whole eggs, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, a little sugar, and some chopped parsley are to be vigorously worked in with the paste.
Next, poach the schpeischlitz in boiling milk with a little salt, in the form of teaspoon quenelles ; they will be done in about ten minutes ; they must be drained Immediately, and tossed lightly in some fried bread crumbs, fried for the purpose of a light colour, and served quite hot, with either grated Gruÿere cheese, or else cinnamon-sugar, separately, to gratify different tastes. Different sorts of preserves are also fit accompaniments to this dish, which may thus be served either as a sweet in the second course, or as a savoury to be handed round between the courses of fish and entrées.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's German Schpeischlitz.
Prepare the maize-flour batter as in the foregoing case, adding thereto two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and leaving out the parsley; form the quenelles in tablespoons, introducing small balls of any kind of croquet-meat in their centre, which must be covered in with some of the batter, and neatly and securely fastened down, by smoothing over the surface with a small knife frequently dipped in hot water : the milk or water in which the quenelles are poached must not be allowed to boil at all, as that would cause the quenelles to burst ; they must merely simmer gently for about ten minutes ; and having ascertained that they are done, drain and set them to cool upon a dish ; and when cold, dip each quenelle separately in some reduced Allemande sauce; replace them in order on a dish to be left on the ice until they are become firm on the surface; they are then to be egged and bread-crumbed, fried in hot lard, dished on a folded napkin with fried parsley, and served hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's German Quenelles.
Take about half a pound of any kind of game—say the flesh of a grouse, partridge, rabbit, woodcock. or snipes, larks, &c.; cut this up in small squares, and it with an ounce of butter, a little ham, chopped truffle, mushrooms, parsley, and shalot; season with nutmeg, pepper and salt; and when done brown, pound thoroughly in the mortar with a good spoonful of sauce ; rub it through a wire sieve, and place the game purée thus produced in a small stew pan; add the yolks of four eggs, and the four whites whisked into a substantial froth; mix lightly, and with this preparation fill a dozen or more paper cases, see No. 325; egg over the tops with a paste-brush dipped in beaten white of egg, push them in a moderately-heated oven to bake for about twelve minutes, and as soon as done, dish up the bonnes-boucbes on a napkin, and serve immediately, for this delicate preparation is materially deteriorated in its lightness by being kept waiting any length of tic before it is eaten.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Bonnes-bouches.
Cut up chicken and cooked ham, in the form of small squares or dice, in the proportion of two-thirds of chicken or fowl to one-third of ham. Next, stir two good tablespoonfuls of sauce with one spoonful of Crosse and Blackwell’s curry paste in a stewpan, and when it boils, add the chicken and ham; mix, and with this preparation make the sandwiches in manner following : viz.,—cut some thin slices of stale crumb of bread, stamp out these with a plain round tin cutter the size of a crown-piece, and fry them in clarified butter of a light-golden colour; between two of these croutons place a thick layer of the preparation; and as this is done, place them in order on a baking-sheet; then put upon the tops a round ball—the size of a small walnut composed of grated Parmesan cheese and butter in equal parts, and kneaded into a paste; push in the oven (brisk heat) for five minutes, dish up on a napkin, and serve as a second·course savoury dish.
Note.—These veiy delicious appetisers may be also prepared with equal success by using any kind of cooked fish or shell-fish, instead of game, &c.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Adelaide Sanwiches.
Cut thin brown bread and butter, and between two slices place alternate layers of thinly-sliced hard-boiled eggs, small salad or American cress, and cleansed fillets of anchovies ; divide these slices into small squares or oblongs, and serve them on a napkin, either for breakfast, luncheon, or supper.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Victoria Sandwiches.
Cut slices of white bread and butter from French rolls, and between two slices place alternate layers of very thin slices of roast fowl, shred lettuce-leaves, and fillets of anchovies ; dish up on a napkin, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Bretby Sandwiches.
Between slices of very thin crisp toast place alternate layers of very thin slices of roast game, shred celery, and Tartar sauce; dish up on a napkin.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Irish Sandwiches.
Between slices of brown or white bread and butter place thin scollops of cooked fish of any kind you may happen to have most handy ; spread a little Tartar sauce over the pieces of fish, and strew some shred lettuce-leaves over all ; press the other slice of bread and butter upon this ; cut up the sandwiches in squares ; dish up, and serve.
Note.—Thin slices of hard-boiled eggs, or sliced Indian or common gherkins may also be added to the other in gradients.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Fish Sandwiches.
Roast a pheasant, partridge, or grouse, and when cold, cut all the meat off, and mince it into very small and neatly-cut squares ; to this add a third proportion of truffle and tongue cut in the same manner, and mix both in some salmis sauce in which there has been incorporated a piece of good glaze ; set this preparation to become cold and firm upon ice, and then let it be cut out in shapes to suit the slices of bread and butter cut from small milk rolls.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's The Prince's Sandwiches.
Cut a number of thin scollops of either roast fowl, game, or of any kind of cooked Irish, or of tunny, lobster, or the tails of picked prawns, or crayfish : let the scollops of fowl be masked over with white mayonaise sauce, those of game masked with salmis sauce in which has been mixed some aspic jelly ; the scollops of fish masked over with mayonaise sauce coloured with chopped tarragon, chervil, and chives; and the scollops of lobster or prawns or Crayfish·tails masked with mayonaise sauce coloured with pounded lobster coral. Let the scollops so far prepared be adjusted upon thin croutons of fried bread of corresponding size and shape ; decorate their surface with truffle, white of hard egg, Indian pickle, or the leaves of tarragon or chervil: the details of this sort of decoration are to be stamped out with fancy tin cutters (to be obtained only at Adams’ kitchen utensil warerooms in the Haymarket, St. James’s). These sandwiches must then be dished in circular rows ; some Italian salad, No. 372, to be placed in the centre, ornamented round the base with aspic jelly. They are then to be served to the ladies as a dainty worthy of their appreciation.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Sandwiches for Ball-suppers.
Between thin slices of bread and butter cut—either from half-quartern brown or French loaves or from rolls, place thin slices of beef, veal and ham, or bacon, mutton, poultry, or game ; in any case, the meat should be seasoned with pepper and salt, and English or French mustard; sliced pickles are sometimes added. When the sandwiches have been pressed with the hand, to make all ingredients adhere together, cut them in squares, dish up on a napkin, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Ordinary Sandwiches.
Rinse and immediately wipe with a soft cloth the leaves of a ripe coss-lettuce; split them down the stalk, and divide each half leaf into four pieces; place these in a salad-bowl with a few fresh-gathered leaves of green mint; season with one tablespoonful of salad-oil, two of vinegar, a dessert-spoonful of moist sugar, pepper and salt; mix and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's English Salad.
Take equal parts of lettuce, shred celery, water-cress, small salad, beetroot, and spring radishes ; thoroughly wash them for a few minutes, and when drained in a cloth, gather up the four corners into the right hand, and shake out all the water. Next, put the salad in a bowl ; season with equal proportions of oil and vinegar, two or three chopped green onions, pepper and salt ; mix and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Another English Salad.
Prepare a salad composed as follows: viz.,—a cabbage lettuce, a head of endive, shred celery, and slices. of beetroot ; season with a salad mixture composed as follows : viz.,—place the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs in a basin with a teaspoonful of salt, ditto of made mustard and a little pepper ; with the back part of the bowl of a wooden spoon, bruise the yolks and mix in gradually with them a good tablespoonful of double cream; after which further incorporate therewith half a gill of salad oil and a couple of spoonfuls of vinegar ; the sauce finished, use it as directed above.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Another English Salad II.
First peel and then cut the cucumber in thin slices ; season with equal parts of salad·oil and vinegar, and also equal parts of pepper and salt. The addition of a few very thin slices of raw onion renders raw cucumber less indigestible.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Cucumber Salad.
It is not customary in France to mix different kinds of salads in the same bowl. While I am bound to admit that this difference in custom is mainly the result of taste ; I humbly submit that, inasmuch as the admixture of small salad, or endive, or American cress, with either kinds of lettuce—independently of the fact that the one kills the flavour of the other—destroys the character of a French salad; it also interferes with the variety of salads.
Although a French salad should consist of one kind only, it must also be rigorously borne in mind that the salad must never be allowed to soak in water, but merely to be rinsed, and gently wiped or shaken in a cloth (in France they use very light wicker-baskets for this purpose). The lettuce should be split down the stalk, each piece divided in three or four, at most ; and the salad being completed, is to be seasoned in manner following: viz.,—to half a gill of salad-oil add a table spoonful of tarragon vinegar, a small teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper, some coarsely-chopped tarragon, chervil, and chives, or spring-onions. The seasoning should be mixed in a separate basin, poured to the salad first before using it, and lightly yet thoroughly mixed.
Note.—In order to relieve the apparent monotony of French salads, it may be well to observe, that monkʼs beard, or dandelion, or endives, or escaroles, are usually mixed with beetroot, also with corn-salad when in season.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's French Salad.
Bake or boil a Spanish onion whole, and when cold, cut it in slices, and dish them ultimately with slices of boiled or baked beetroot ; pour over the salad a seasoning composed of two spoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, some chopped parsley, pepper and salt.
Note.—This kind of salad is specially adapted to be eaten with roast or braised meats.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Beetroot and Spanish Onion Salad.
Italian salads are composed of every variety of raw salads, added to all kinds of meat or fish, and cooked vegetables; and also of tunny, anchovies. olives capers, and pickles.
Cut two cold potatoes and half a beetroot in slices half an inch thick, punch these out with a long tin vegetable cutter, and put them into a basin with equal quantities of green peas, heads of asparagus, buds of cauliflower or brocoli, small Windsor beans, cut French beans, boiled celery, seakale, Brussels sprouts, cooked haricot beans or lentils. Let it be clearly understood that, although every kind of vegetable named above form component parts of an Italian salad, yet it is not intended that they should all be used for that purpose at one and the same time : due regard must be had to what is in season, without losing sight of the fact that, in all cases. it is essential to study economy and convenience :—thus, for instance, beetroot and potatoes being at all times easily obtained, let these and some kind of salad in season be mixed in equal proportions ; to these add any three or four sorts of cooked vegetables you may happen to have, a little shred ham, fowl or game, tunny, anchovies, pickles, or olives ; season with vinegar or Tartar sauce, mix lightly together, and serve in a salad-bowl.
Note.—These salads are also used for garnishing aspic borders, and cold entrées of fish.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Italian Salad.
Cut two or three ripe tomatas in slices, and dish them up in a circular row in a salad·bowl or dish; fill the centre with either small Windsor beans, French beans, garbanças or Spanish peas, pickled button-onions, large green peas, or haricot beans: all, or any of these, to suit convenience and taste, should be gently mixed with some mayonaise sauce : the salad when finished is to be sauced over with vinegar,—the ordinary seasoning for French salads.
This is composed of cooked carrots, beetroot, parsnips, either punched or scooped in shapes, or merely out in neatly-formed squares or oblongs ; to these add, common gherkins also cut, a few capers, some scraped horseradish, lobster or prawns, or ham, or any kind of meat cut up in small squares; season with mayonaise, vinegar, or Tartar sauce ; and when dished up either in a bowl, or in an aspic, or cold vegetable border, garnish the surface of the salad with very small round balls of Russian caviare, to be obtained at Crosse and Blackwel1’s, Soho-square.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Russian Salad.
Prepare two Dutch herrings as indicated in No. 352; and to these pieces of herrings add two apples peeled and shred, some beetroot and potatoes cut in squares, a few Brussels sprouts, a few green onions, and picked shrimps, and some curled celery; season with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt. The vegetables must be cooked.
Note.—Any kind of dried or pickled fish may be substituted for herrings, if preferred.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Flemish Salad.
Cut cold potatoes, Brussels sprouts, seakale, cauliflower, or brocoli, or any kind of boiled cabbage, in slices; season with oil and vinegar, pepper and salt, and chopped parsley. Beetroot and shred raw apples may also be added.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's German Salad.
Shred the white stalks of two heads of celery in inch lengths, and put these in a salad-bowl with the whites of three hard-boiled eggs, also shred ; season with white mayonaise sauce, and a little shallot; strew over the surface of the salad the yolks of hard eggs previously rubbed through a wire sieve for the purpose.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Cazanova Salad.
Prepare the shred celery and eggs as in the foregoing case ; season them with Prince of Wales’ sauce, No. 81, pile up lightly in the salad-bowl, garnish round the base of the salad with thin slices of German sausage or ham ; sprinkle over the surface, first, the powdered yolks of eggs, and next, some black truffles shred fine. This has a very charming effect, and is considered a wonderful stimulant.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Salad à la Rachel.
Any kind of cooked cold vegetables serves the purpose; either sort may be mixed together in the same salad, and for variety sake, or according to taste, any kind of salad, or meat, or fish, may be added ; season with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt, with or without onion or shallot, to suit your fancy.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Vegetable Salad.
Prepare a salad composed of any kind of lettuce, endive, celery, &c. ; to this add a few slices of young potatoes, apple, smoked salmon, and anchovies ; season with oil, vinegar, pepper and salt ; and strew lightly over the surface some grated Hamboro' beef ; garnish round with slices of hard-boiled eggs.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Hamboro' Salad.