Francatelli Recipes for Venison, Chapter 9
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Francatelli Recipes for Venison — This page gives you the entire contents of the Ninth Chapter: Removes of Venison, Red Deer and Roebuck from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
CHAPTER IX.
REMOVES OF VENISON, RED DEER, AND ROE.
No. 455.—ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON.
Saw off the shank-bone, remove the sinew, pare away the dark dry skin from the skirt, and also the dried surface of the under part. Then cover the haunch with a large sheet of well-greased paper, and over that place a covering of flour-and-water paste, about half an inch in thickness ; envelop the whole with two large sheets of greased paper securely tied on with string ; place the venison in a cradle-spit, and set it down before the fire, to roast for about four hours, more or less, the exact space of time depending upon the size and weight of the haunch. When about to take it up from the fire, the paste and paper should be removed; sprinkle a little salt over it, and after dredging the surface with flour, paste it with dissolved butter poured through a straining spoon, and froth it by means of the red-hot salamander. Dish up with brown gravy, and serve currant jelly, and French beans, separately.
Note.—The following sauce is appropriate for roast venison, or roast mutton: viz.,—to one pound of currant jelly add a gill of port wine, the thin rind of a lemon, and a small stick of cinnamon bruised ; stir the whole over the ire until dissolved, without boiling strain through a coarse tin strainer, and serve in a sauce-boat.
No.456—ROAST SHOULDER OF VENISON.
A shoulder of venison to be fit for roasting should be very ripe ; that is, it must have hung for something like a fortnight, in order to admit of the sinews and fibres of the meat becoming well mortfied by keeping it hung in a well-ventilated cool atmosphere. When about to roast a shoulder of venison, let it be enveloped in greased paper, and paste, similarly to the haunch ; it will take about one hour and three-quarters roasting, and must be frothed and served as recommended for the haunch.
Note.—It is essential to cover a shoulder of venison with mutton fat, previously to roasting it, as it has none of its own.
No. 457.—ROAST NECK OF VENISON.
Saw off the spine-bone, and remove the small flat bones which cover the fillet part of the neck; shorten the ribs by sawing them across without cutting through the fat, which, after the upper bones are removed, must be rolled over the ribs; wrap the neck thus trimmed in greased paper, then in a crust of flour-and-water paste ; and finally envelop it in greased paper securely tied on with string, and roast it in a cradle-spit before a moderate fire for about an hour and three-quarters; when done, sere as indicated for a haunch.
No. 458.—HAUNCH OF RED DEER.
The red deer is a noble animal, and affords good sport to the experienced marksman; its flesh is, I believe, much esteemed in Scotland, and more especially by sportsmen, who insist that its flavour ranks high with all connoisseurs. I cannot agree with their verdict; for I have the bad taste, perhaps, to consider red deer venison both coarse and strong, and admitting of no comparison with our well-fed buck venison : doe venison is unworthy the epicure’s notice.
Allow me, ladies and gentlemen, whenever you have occasion to purchase venison, to advise you to go straight to Thomas Grove, of Charing Cross; and pray don't take the trouble to select for yourself, but leave all responsibility to Mr. Grove, and then I will undertake to promise you that you will be satisfied.
When about to dress red-deer venison, bear in mind that it must have hung three weeks—if possible, that is, weather permitting: whichever the joint; it must be well covered with thick layers of mutton fat ; and must be prepared and pasted over in the usual way. An ordinary-sized haunch of red deer will take about five hours roasting : follow in all particulars the instructions for cooking a haunch of venison.
No. 459.—VENISON FRY.
What is termed a venison fry consists of the muzzle, the heart, liver, skirts, melt, and—what I must here designate the delicacies ; it forms altogether a dish which I, for one, should never have a desire to partake of ; but as most people’s taste in this case seems to differ from mine, I must give rules how to cook it. When it falls to your lot to have to dress a venison fry, cut the heart, melt, liver, kidneys, muzzle, and the etceteras in slices about half an inch thick; season with pepper and salt, flour them over, and fry them of a brown colour over a brisk fire ; and when done, dish up with fried parsley, and serve separately, in a sauce-boat some thick highly-seasoned brown gravy, or poivrade sauce. Currant jelly may be served separately.
No. 460.—VENISON CHOPS.
Venison chops are justly considered a great delicacy ; and when cut from quite ripe, well-fed venison well-cooked, full of their own inimitable gravy, and served with some plain stewed mushrooms, they certainly are worthy of their claims to the notice of epicures.
Let these chops be cut an inch thick, neither beaten nor trimmed of their fat, peppered and salted, and placed on a bright gridiron over a clear fire ; be careful to turn them over every two minutes ; about twenty to five and twenty minutes will suffice to cook them : dish them on a hot dish, with a small pat of fresh butter under each chop, and serve immediately with an Irish mealy potato.
Don’t forget the plain stewed mushrooms. These are prepared with a bit of butter, salt, and gravy.
No. 461.—ROEBUCK.
Plainly dressed roebuck is a very sorry kind of food ; it is really good only when it is larded, and pickled in a marinade, and served with a good sauce, or else made into a haricot, or jugged in the same way as it is customary to jug hares. At present I will instruct you how to dress a haunch of roebuck:—
First, saw off the shank-bone, and also the spine-bone; and then, having pared away the superficial skin from the outer part of the leg, and also along the loin, let these bare places be closely larded; and when this is completed, set the roebuck to steep in sufficient marinade, No. 299, to cover its surface; and allow it to remain in this pickle for a week; it will then be fit to dress; and when about to cook the roebuck, spit it, and roast it before a clear fire for about an hour and a half, basting it very frequently, as otherwise it would certainly eat dry ; and when it is done, glaze it, dish it up with fancy-shaped fried potatoes, or German quenelles, No. 356, and groups of stewed prunes, sauce over with poivrade, and serve hot.
Note.—Larded roebuck may also be braized and garnished with the same ragouts, &c., as recommended for larded joints of mutton.
No. 462.—HARICOT OF ROEBUCK.
For this purpose take a shoulder or a neck of roe buck, or both; and cut the meat off the shoulder in pieces about two inches square, and the neck in thick cutlets—say two bones to each ; fry these pieces with two ounces of butter in a stew pan over a brisk fire until they are browned ; then pour off all grease, shake in a good handful of flour, stir together, moisten with sufficient stock or water to cover the meat ; season with pepper and salt, and vegetables, and stir it over the fire until it boils; remove it to the corner of the stove, to allow it to throw up the scum, which remove with a spoon. When the meat is done, strain the sauce from ti into a stewpan to be further reduced with a glass of port wine, and two ounces of currant jelly; trim the pieces of meat, place them in a stewpan with the carrots, turnips, and onions ; add the sauce, and make the whole hot before dishing up the haricot.
Do not forget that the vegetables used for the haricot must be neatly shaped in pieces or forms not exceeding an inch in size.
No. 463.—CUTLETS OF ROEBUCK.
Saw off the upper bones of the ribs of a neck of roebuck leaving the cutlet-bones barely three inches in length ; saw off the spine-bone ; remove the flat bones which cover the meaty part of the neck, and then with a sharp knife separate the bones—cutting slantwise between each rib-bone ; thus, the cutlets being so far shaped, scrape away all meat from the small or upper end of the bone, to the extent of half an inch ; flatten the cutlet slightly with a cutlet-bat (see Adams' Illustrations &c.) ; trim the meaty part neatly round; season pepper and salt; dip each cutlet separately in clarified butter ; bread-crumb and broil them ; dish up, and serve piquante sauce round the base of the entrée.
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
Francatelli's Chapter 9: Removes of Venison, Red Deer and Roebuck
CHAPTER IX.
REMOVES OF VENISON, RED DEER, AND ROE.
Saw off the shank-bone, remove the sinew, pare away the dark dry skin from the skirt, and also the dried surface of the under part. Then cover the haunch with a large sheet of well-greased paper, and over that place a covering of flour-and-water paste, about half an inch in thickness ; envelop the whole with two large sheets of greased paper securely tied on with string ; place the venison in a cradle-spit, and set it down before the fire, to roast for about four hours, more or less, the exact space of time depending upon the size and weight of the haunch. When about to take it up from the fire, the paste and paper should be removed; sprinkle a little salt over it, and after dredging the surface with flour, paste it with dissolved butter poured through a straining spoon, and froth it by means of the red-hot salamander. Dish up with brown gravy, and serve currant jelly, and French beans, separately.
Note.—The following sauce is appropriate for roast venison, or roast mutton: viz.,—to one pound of currant jelly add a gill of port wine, the thin rind of a lemon, and a small stick of cinnamon bruised ; stir the whole over the ire until dissolved, without boiling strain through a coarse tin strainer, and serve in a sauce-boat.
A shoulder of venison to be fit for roasting should be very ripe ; that is, it must have hung for something like a fortnight, in order to admit of the sinews and fibres of the meat becoming well mortfied by keeping it hung in a well-ventilated cool atmosphere. When about to roast a shoulder of venison, let it be enveloped in greased paper, and paste, similarly to the haunch ; it will take about one hour and three-quarters roasting, and must be frothed and served as recommended for the haunch.
Note.—It is essential to cover a shoulder of venison with mutton fat, previously to roasting it, as it has none of its own.
Saw off the spine-bone, and remove the small flat bones which cover the fillet part of the neck; shorten the ribs by sawing them across without cutting through the fat, which, after the upper bones are removed, must be rolled over the ribs; wrap the neck thus trimmed in greased paper, then in a crust of flour-and-water paste ; and finally envelop it in greased paper securely tied on with string, and roast it in a cradle-spit before a moderate fire for about an hour and three-quarters; when done, sere as indicated for a haunch.
The red deer is a noble animal, and affords good sport to the experienced marksman; its flesh is, I believe, much esteemed in Scotland, and more especially by sportsmen, who insist that its flavour ranks high with all connoisseurs. I cannot agree with their verdict; for I have the bad taste, perhaps, to consider red deer venison both coarse and strong, and admitting of no comparison with our well-fed buck venison : doe venison is unworthy the epicure’s notice.
Allow me, ladies and gentlemen, whenever you have occasion to purchase venison, to advise you to go straight to Thomas Grove, of Charing Cross; and pray don't take the trouble to select for yourself, but leave all responsibility to Mr. Grove, and then I will undertake to promise you that you will be satisfied.
When about to dress red-deer venison, bear in mind that it must have hung three weeks—if possible, that is, weather permitting: whichever the joint; it must be well covered with thick layers of mutton fat ; and must be prepared and pasted over in the usual way. An ordinary-sized haunch of red deer will take about five hours roasting : follow in all particulars the instructions for cooking a haunch of venison.
What is termed a venison fry consists of the muzzle, the heart, liver, skirts, melt, and—what I must here designate the delicacies ; it forms altogether a dish which I, for one, should never have a desire to partake of ; but as most people’s taste in this case seems to differ from mine, I must give rules how to cook it. When it falls to your lot to have to dress a venison fry, cut the heart, melt, liver, kidneys, muzzle, and the etceteras in slices about half an inch thick; season with pepper and salt, flour them over, and fry them of a brown colour over a brisk fire ; and when done, dish up with fried parsley, and serve separately, in a sauce-boat some thick highly-seasoned brown gravy, or poivrade sauce. Currant jelly may be served separately.
Venison chops are justly considered a great delicacy ; and when cut from quite ripe, well-fed venison well-cooked, full of their own inimitable gravy, and served with some plain stewed mushrooms, they certainly are worthy of their claims to the notice of epicures.
Let these chops be cut an inch thick, neither beaten nor trimmed of their fat, peppered and salted, and placed on a bright gridiron over a clear fire ; be careful to turn them over every two minutes ; about twenty to five and twenty minutes will suffice to cook them : dish them on a hot dish, with a small pat of fresh butter under each chop, and serve immediately with an Irish mealy potato.
Don’t forget the plain stewed mushrooms. These are prepared with a bit of butter, salt, and gravy.
Plainly dressed roebuck is a very sorry kind of food ; it is really good only when it is larded, and pickled in a marinade, and served with a good sauce, or else made into a haricot, or jugged in the same way as it is customary to jug hares. At present I will instruct you how to dress a haunch of roebuck:—
First, saw off the shank-bone, and also the spine-bone; and then, having pared away the superficial skin from the outer part of the leg, and also along the loin, let these bare places be closely larded; and when this is completed, set the roebuck to steep in sufficient marinade, No. 299, to cover its surface; and allow it to remain in this pickle for a week; it will then be fit to dress; and when about to cook the roebuck, spit it, and roast it before a clear fire for about an hour and a half, basting it very frequently, as otherwise it would certainly eat dry ; and when it is done, glaze it, dish it up with fancy-shaped fried potatoes, or German quenelles, No. 356, and groups of stewed prunes, sauce over with poivrade, and serve hot.
Note.—Larded roebuck may also be braized and garnished with the same ragouts, &c., as recommended for larded joints of mutton.
For this purpose take a shoulder or a neck of roe buck, or both; and cut the meat off the shoulder in pieces about two inches square, and the neck in thick cutlets—say two bones to each ; fry these pieces with two ounces of butter in a stew pan over a brisk fire until they are browned ; then pour off all grease, shake in a good handful of flour, stir together, moisten with sufficient stock or water to cover the meat ; season with pepper and salt, and vegetables, and stir it over the fire until it boils; remove it to the corner of the stove, to allow it to throw up the scum, which remove with a spoon. When the meat is done, strain the sauce from ti into a stewpan to be further reduced with a glass of port wine, and two ounces of currant jelly; trim the pieces of meat, place them in a stewpan with the carrots, turnips, and onions ; add the sauce, and make the whole hot before dishing up the haricot.
Do not forget that the vegetables used for the haricot must be neatly shaped in pieces or forms not exceeding an inch in size.
Saw off the upper bones of the ribs of a neck of roebuck leaving the cutlet-bones barely three inches in length ; saw off the spine-bone ; remove the flat bones which cover the meaty part of the neck, and then with a sharp knife separate the bones—cutting slantwise between each rib-bone ; thus, the cutlets being so far shaped, scrape away all meat from the small or upper end of the bone, to the extent of half an inch ; flatten the cutlet slightly with a cutlet-bat (see Adams' Illustrations &c.) ; trim the meaty part neatly round; season pepper and salt; dip each cutlet separately in clarified butter ; bread-crumb and broil them ; dish up, and serve piquante sauce round the base of the entrée.