Francatelli Instructions for Wine Service
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Francatelli's Chapter: INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SERVICE OF WINES.
FRANCATELLI'S
INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE SERVICE OF WINES,
DENOT1NG THE ORDER IN WHICH THEY SHOULD BE
DRUNK AT THE DINNER-TABLE.
THE judicious service of wines at the dinner-table is essential to the complete success of a well-ordered and recherché dinner; for on the manner and order in which this service is conducted will chiefly depend on the more or less favourable judgement awarded (independently of their real claims to superiority) to the wines put before the guests.
First, let it be remembered that all possible care should be taken in removing the bottles from their bins, and afterwards also, in handling them for the purpose of drawing the corks, and decanting the wines, not to disturb any deposit that may exist in the bottles, for that deposit, if shaken, destroys not only the brilliancy of the wine, but also impairs its flavour and bouquet.
The different kinds of Sherries, Ports, Madeira, and all Spanish and Portuguese wines in general, are the better for having been decanted several hours before being drunk. During winter their aroma is improved by the temperature of the dining-room acting upon their volatile properties for an hour or so before dinner-time. By paying due attention to this part of the process, all the mellowness which good wines acquire by age, predominates to the delight of the epicure’s grateful palate. The lighter wines, such as Bordeaux, Burgundy, and most of the wines of Italy, should be most carefully handled, and decanted an hour only before dinner-time. In winter, the decanters should be either dipped in warm water or else placed near the fire, to warm them, for about ten minutes previously to their being used. In summer, use the decanters without warming them, as the genial warmth of the atmosphere will be all-sufficient, not only to prevent chilling the wines, but to develop their fragrant bouquet. Moreover, let these, and all delicate wines, be brought into the dining-room as late as may be consistent with convenience.
And now, as regards the order in which wines should be served during dinner : I would recommend all bon vivants desirous of testing and thoroughly enjoying a variety of wines, to bear in mind that they should be drunk in the following order: viz.
When it happens that oysters preface the dinner, a glass of Chablis or Sauterne is their most proper accompaniment: genuine old Madeira, or East India Sherry, or Amontillado, proves a welcome stomachic after soup of any kind, not excepting turtle, after eating which, as you value your health, avoid all kinds of punch especially Roman punch. During the service of fish, cause any of the following ot be handed round to your guests : Amontillado, Hock, Tisane Champagne, Pouilly, Meursault, Château-Grillé, Barsac, and generally all kinds of dry white wines.
With the entrees, any of the following wines may be introduced: viz.,—
| BORDEAUX | BURGUNDY, &c. |
| Saint Julien. | Macon. |
| Leoville. | Moulin-à-vent. |
| Laroze | Thorins. |
| Haut-Brion. | Beaune. |
| Château-Lafitte. | Chassagne. |
| Château-Margaux. | Pale and brown Sherry. |
| Mouton-Lafitte. | Amontillado. |
| Latour. | Bucellas. |
| Médoc. | Mancinillo. |
| Saint Emilion. | |
| Saint Estèphe. |
SECOND-COURSE WINES.
RED WINES.
| Pommard. | Rheinish wines (red). |
| Volnay. | Ermitage. |
| Nuits. | Hermirage. |
| Richebourg. | Tavel. |
| Clos-Vougeot. | Chassagne. |
| Romanée-Conti. | Roussillon. |
| Chambertin. | Châteauneuf du Pape. |
| Saint Georges. | Côte-rôtie. |
| Pouilly. | Jourançon. |
| Médoc. | Monté-Fiascone. |
| Mersault. | Monté-Pulciano. |
| Saint Perray. | Vino di Pasta. |
WHITE WINES.
| Vin de Grave. | Aï pétillant. |
| Sauterne. | Carbonneiux. |
| Barsac. | Champagnes. |
| Langon. |
Red Champagnes.
| Bouzy. | Champagne |
| Versy. | Sillery. |
| Volnay mousseux. | Sparkling Moselle. |
| Veuve Cliquot. |
DESSERT WINES.
| Muscat-Frontignan. | Maderia. |
| Muscat-Lunel. | Malmsey Madeira. |
| Muscat-Rivesalte. | Syracuse. |
| Grenache. | Tokay. |
| Vin de paille. | Constance. |
| Malaga. | Carcavallos. |
| Rota. | Picoli. |
| Alicante. | Schiras. |
A question of the highest importance, but into which I may but briefly enter, is to determine to which of all these wines a decided preference should be given, both with regard to taste, and also in respect to their influence on the health of different temperaments. It is easier to settle the latter part of the question than the former, inasmuch as it is difficult, not to say impossible, to lay down rules for the guidance of the palate. Thus there are somewhat delight in the perfumed yet austere bouquet of Bordeaux, while others prefer the delicate fragrance of Champagne; some give the palm to the generous and mirth-inspiring powers of Burgundy ; while the million deem that Madeira (when genuine), Port, and Sherry, from what are termed their generous natures, ignoring the plentiful admixture of alcohol, are the only wines worthy of notice. All these tastes are no doubt well enough founded on good and sufficent reasons, and may prove safe indicators for the preservation of health :—for instance, a person of sanguine temperament feels a necessity for a light sapid wine, such as genuine Champagnes and Rhenish wines ; while the phlegmatic seek those of a more spirituous, generous nature—Burgundy, Port, Madeira, or Sherry. Those who are a prey to spleen—lowness of spirits— melancholy—are prone to select, as a sure and pleasant remedy for their frightful ailments, the wines of Italy, Spain, Portugal, Roussillon, and Burgundy. The bilious, who generally are blessed with a good appetite, provided always that they do not smoke, require a generous wine, which, while capable of acting both as an astringent and a dissolvent of the bile, is of facile digestion; such are the properties of all first-class Bordeaux wines. Bordeaux is said to be a cold wine ; this false notion arises out of mere prejudice—nothing can be more contrary to truth : this health-restoring wine, as I have already stated, is of easy digestion, and possesses, moreover, the advantage of being very considerably less inebriating than any other first-class wine. In short, Burgundy is exciting, Champagne is captious, Roussillon restorative, and Bordeaux stomachic.
It now remains to show the order in which the several sorts of wines, enumerated above, should be served at table. Custom and fashion have ever had more to do with this practice than any real consideration for health or taste.
It is generally admitted by real gourmets, that red wines should precede the introduction of white wines, — those recommended as proper accompaniments to oysters and fish excepted. The custom most in vogue at the best tables in London and Paris is, to commence by introducing, simultaneously with the entrées, any of the following Burgundy wines :— Avallon, Coulanges, Tonnerre, Vermanton, Irrancy, Mercurey, Chasagne, and, generally, all those wines known under the specific names of Macon and Auxerre : these may be varied or replaced by other wines, denominated Saint Denis, Saint Ay, and Beaugency : these again lead to the further libations of Beaune, Pommard, Volley Richebourg, Chambertin, Saint Georges, Romanée. With the second course, roasts and dressed vegetables, and savoury entremets, honour your guests by graciously ushering to their notice sparkling Champagne and Moselle, the deliciously perfumed Cumièrs, the brilliant Silliery, the glorious Hermitage, Côte-rôtie, and Château-Grillé.
With the service of the entremets de douceur—or, as we have it, the sweets—let iced-creaming, sparkling Champagne or Moselle be handed round; but far superior to them, I would recommend a trial of Aï pétillant, Arbois, Condrieux, Rivesaltes, Malaga, Frontignan, Grenache, Malmsey Madeira, and East India Sherry.
So little wine is drunk at dessert in this country, that it would be superfluous to enter into particulars about the service further than to refer the reader to the list of wines appropriated to this part of a dinner. And what shall be said with respect to the class of wines best adapted to make their appearance on the table after dinner? Why simply this; if you have done reasonable honour to some of the good things which I will suppose your table to have been supplied with, pray let the wine alone for the present, and order up the coffee—hot, strong, and bright ! Let it be made with pure—picked overland Mocha,—fresh roasted pale—coarsely ground,—and pray do forbid your housekeeper to clarify it with egg; but tell her to use a bit of genuine Russian isinglas, not the spurious filth made from all sorts of abominations, and sold at most Italian warehouses under the name of isinglass. The Cafetière a la Dubelloy, or one of Adams’ Percolators, is best adapted for good coffee without the trouble or necessity for clarifying it. And as to liqueur·s ? Try Eau de vie d’Andaye, Eau de la Grande Chartreuse. or ten-year-old Cognac.
Before I take my leave of you, dear reader, let me here acknowledge how much I feel indebted to the press generally for the flattering notices of my “ Cook’s Guide," which in a great measure through such favourable introduction has, in, the short space of six months, gone through three large editions.
And as I now write at "the wee hour beyont the twal," as the Scots say, and we have entered on a new year, I will wish you all good fortune, and that you may possess the means of enjoying the delectable wines we have passed in review, and a dinner dressed by an Aberlin, a Brûnet-Montrose, a Jules Magdlin, a Georges Comte, a Sédille, or a Valentin :—and then, indeed, you will be of the most fortunate on this globe.
C. E FRANCATELLI
Boyne Terrace, Notting Hill.January, 1862.