Alexis Soyer's Part 5: Sauces
Welcome to Celtnet's Alexis Soyer's Part 5 (Sauces) Page — Here you will find the full text from the fifth section: Sauces of Alexis Soyer's Modern Housewife or Ménagère As well as the full text this page also provides links out to the overall index of the book and links to modern redactions of each and every recipe (where practicable). This site builds a complete library of Eliza Acton recipes, allowing the modern cook to make them at home today. Enjoy...
SAUCES.
Sauces in cookery are like the first rudiments of grammar, which consist of certain rules called Syntax, and the foundation of all languages: these fundamental rules are nine, so has cookery the same number of sauces, which are the foundation of all others; but these, like its prototype the grammar, have two—brown and white, which bear a resemblance to the noun and verb, as they are the first and most easily learnt, and most constantly in use; the others are the adjuncts, pronouns, adverbs, and interjections; upon the proper use of the two principal ones depends the quality of all others, and the proper making of which tends to the enjoyment of the dinner; for to my fancy they are to cookery what the gamut is in the composition of music, as it is by the arrangement of the notes that harmony is produced, so should the ingredients in the sauce be so nicely blended, and that delightful concord should exist, which would equally delight the palate, as a masterpiece of a Mozart or a Rossini should delight the ear; but which, if badly executed, tantalize those nervous organs, affect the whole system, and prove a nuisance instead of a pleasure. I will therefore be very precise in describing the two, in order that, when you prepare them, you will not cause your guests to make grimaces at each other, whilst partaking of them at your festive board, as the present age is a little more refined than at the time of Dr. Johnson, and we are often obliged to swallow that we do not like. It is reported of him, that being at a ceremonious dinner-party, and indulging in his usual flow of wit, he unconsciously partook of a spoonful of very hot soup, which he immediately returned to the plate he had taken it from; and observing the astonishment of some of his neighbours, he very coolly remarked, "A fool would have burnt his mouth."
When we are at home alone, I very seldom trouble myself by making white or brown sauce, which I can avoid by selecting simplified dishes, which easily produce their own sauce whilst cooking them. But when I expect a little company, the first order I give my cook is to make half of the quantity of the following receipts for white and brown sauces, which ought to be kept hot in a bain-marie pan, previous to the dinner. No doubt the word bain-marie is new to you, I will therefore tell you what it is. It consists of a pan containing water to the depth of about four inches, generally placed at the side of the stove, in which are placed the saucepans and stewpans, in order that their contents may be kept hot, without injuring the flavour by over heating, and no kitchen from which a good dinner is expected to be sent should be without it. 135. WHITE SAUCE.—Cut and chop a knuckle of veal, weighing about four pounds, into large dice; also half a pound of lean bacon; butter the bottom of a large stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, add two onions, a small carrot, a turnip, three cloves, half a blade of mace, a bouquet of a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and six of parsley, add a gill of water, place over a sharp fire, stirring round occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with whitish glaze, then fill up with three quarts of water, add a good teaspoonful of salt, and let simmer at the corner of the lire an hour and a half, keeping well skimmed; pass it through a hair sieve into a basin. In another stewpan put a quarter of a pound of butter, with which mix six ounces of flower, stirring over the fire about three minutes, take off, keep stirring until partly cold, when add the stock all at once; continually stirring and boiling for a quarter of an hour; add half a pint of boiling milk, stir a few minutes longer, add a little chopped mushrooms, if handy, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, until required for use, stirring it round occasionally until cold. The above being a simplified white sauce, will be referred to very often in the receipts.
136. BROWN SAUCE.—Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, rub it over the bottom, peel two or three large onions, cut them in thick slices, lay them on the bottom, cut into small pieces about two pounds of knuckle of veal,* all meat, or three pounds if with bone, a quarter of a pound of lean bacon, cut small, two cloves, a few peppercorns, a tablespoonful of salt, two bay leaves, a gill of water; set it on a brisk fire, let it remain ten minutes, when stir it well round, subdue the fire, let it remain twenty minutes longer, and stir now and then until it has a nice brown colour; fill your pan with three quarts of water; when boiling, set it on the corner of the stove, with the lid three parts on the saucepan; when boiling, skim fat and all; after one hour, or one hour and a half simmering, pass it through a sieve into a basin. To make the thickening or Roux for it, proceed as follows:—Roux. Put two ounces of butter into a pan, which melt on a slow fire, then add three ounces of flour, stir it with a wood spoon until getting a thin deep yellow colour; this in France is called Roux, being very useful in cookery, and will be often referred to in these receipts. This process will take ten minutes, when remove from the fire for two minutes to cool, then add at once three pints and a quarter of the above stock, very quickly set it on the fire to boil, remove to the corner to simmer, and skim. It ought to be entirely free from grease, and of a light chesnut colour.
137. DEMI-GLAZE—THIN BROWN SAUCE FOR MADE DISHES.—When I have a small dinner-party, I always, as I told you before, make small quantities of white and brown sauce as above, but this is a nice way of clarifying a brown sauce without much trouble, and makes it a beautiful transparent brown colour: but although I have made it quite a study, that each entree, or made dish for daily use, should make its own sauce, yet I must impress upon you that this sauce is the real key to cooking a good and ceremonious dinner. Put a pint of brown sauce, in a middle-sized stewpan, add to it half a pint of broth or consomme, put it on the stove, stir with wooden spoon, let it boil as fast as possible, take the scum off which will rise to the surface, reduce it until it adheres lightly to the spoon, pass it through a sieve or tammy into a basin, stir now and then until cold, to prevent a skin forming on the top, put it by until wanted for use. It will keep for a week in winter, by adding half a gill of white broth every other day, and giving it a boil; the addition of a tablespoonful of tomato sauce gives it a beautiful colour; use where indicated.
138. THIN BROWN SAUCE OF MUSHROOMS.—Put twelve tablespoonfuls of thin brown sauce in a small stewpan to boil, then have six or eight small mushrooms, well cleaned and washed, chop them fine, and place in sauce, and boil for five minutes; taste if it is to your liking; the addition of a little sugar is an improvement; a little cayenne, if liked, may be introduced. The sauce is good for cutlets, broiled fowl, and game, &c.
139. ESCHALOT SAUCE.—Chop fine about a good tablespoonful of eschalot, place it in the corner of a napkin, and pour water over; press until dry, and put in a small stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one clove, a little mace; boil two minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, boil a little longer, add a little sugar, and serve.
140. PIQUANT Or SHARP SAUCE.—Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, or eschalots, cleaned as above, into a stewpan; put also four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and a bay-leaf, and boil; then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, half a one of chopped parsley, ditto of green gherkins; boil five minutes, skim, add a little sugar, taste if well seasoned, take out bay-leaf and serve.
141. TARRAGON SAUCE.—Put eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four of broth, into a stewpan; boil for a few minutes, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, have ready picked twenty leaves of fresh tarragon, put in to simmer two minutes, and serve with any kind of poultry, but especially spring chickens.
142. BROWN CUCUMBER SAUCE.—Peel a small fresh cucumber, cut it in neat pieces, put in a stewpan with a little sugar, add half an ounce of butter, set it on a slow fire, stir it now and then, add twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and eight of broth; let it simmer till tender, skim the butter off, remove the cucumber into another stewpan, pass the sauce, reduce it a little, taste it, pour over, and serve. 144. MINCE HERB SAUCE.—Put two tablespoonsfuls of finely chopped onions in a stewpan, add a tablespoonful of oil, place it on the fire, stir a few minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four of broth or water; boil, skim; if too thick, and the scum should not rise, add half a gill of broth or water; boil, and reduce to a proper thickness, and add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley if at hand, one of mushrooms, and season with a little cayenne; the juice of a quarter of a lemon; serve. I often introduce a little garlic in this.
144. ITALIAN HERB SAUCE.—Proceed in the same way as the above, only add a little chopped thyme, and a small glass of sherry.
145. ROBERT SAUCE.—Peel and cut up two good0sized onions, put them in stewpan with an ounce of butter, till they are a nice yellow colour, then add eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and two of water or broth; skim, boil quickly; when of a proper thickness add a good tablespoonful of French mustard; season rather high; if no French mustard, use English, but it completely changes the flavour, though still very palatable.
146. RAVIGOTE SAUCE.—Put in a stewpan one middle-sized onion sliced, with a little carrot, a little thyme, bay-leaf, one clove, a little mace, a little scraped horseradish, a little butter, fry a few minutes, then add three teaspoonfuls of vinegar, ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, four of broth; when boiling, skim, add a tablespoonful of currant jelly; when melted, pass all through a tammy, and serve with any kind of meat or poultry: with hare or venison it is excellent.
147. BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE.—Clean and cut twelve small mushrooms in slices, place them in a stewpan with a little butter, salt, pepper, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, set it on a slow fire for a few minutes, then add ten spoonfuls of demi-glaze; boil till they are tender, and serve. A little mushroom catsup may be introduced.
148. ORANGE SAUCE FOR GAME.—Peel half an orange, removing all the pith; cut it into slices, and then in fillets; put them in a gill of water to boil for two minutes; drain them on a sieve, throwing the water away; place in the stewpan two spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or ten of broth; and, when boiling, add the orange, a little sugar, simmer ten minutes, skim, and serve. The juice of half an orange is an improvement. This is served with ducklings and water-fowl: those that like may add cayenne and mustard.
149. GARLIC SAUCE.—Though many dislike the flavour of this root, yet those that like it ought not to be deprived of it. Put in a stewpan ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, a little tomato sauce, if handy; boil it a few minutes, scrape half a clove of garlic, put it in with a little sugar, and serve.
150. MINT SAUCE FOR LAMB.—Take three tablespoonfuls of chopped leaves of green mint, three tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and put into a basin with half a pint of brown vinegar; stir it well up, add one saltspoonful of salt, and serve.
151. LIAISON OF EGGS.—Break the yolks of two eggs in a basin, with which mix six spoonfuls of milk, or eight of cream; pass it through a fine sieve, and use when directed.
152. ANCHOVY BUTTER SAUCE.—Put into a stewpan eight spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or three of broth; when boiling, add one ounce of anchovy butter; stir continually till melted; serve where directed.
153. SOYER'S SAUCE.—Put six spoonfuls of demi-glaze into a stewpan: when hot, add four spoonfuls of Soyer's Gentleman's Sauce; let boil, and serve with either chop, steak, outlet, poultry, or game.
154. PAPILLOTTE SAUCE.—Scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, put it in a pan with four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, stir over the fire for a few minutes, then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce and boil; then add a tablespoonful of mushrooms chopped, one ditto of parsley, a little nutmeg, a little pepper and sugar, a quarter of a clove of scraped garlic; reduce till rather thickish; put on dish till cold, and use it for anything you may put up "en Papillotte."
155. TOMATO SAUCE.—If fresh, put six in a stewpan; having removed the stalk, and squeezed them in the hand to remove pips, &c, add half an onion, sliced, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, half an ounce of celery, one ounce of ham or bacon, same of butter, teaspoonful of sugar, same of salt, a quarter one of pepper, set on fire to stew gently; when all tender, add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with half a pint of broth, boil five minutes, add a little cayenne, taste if highly seasoned, pass it through sieve or tammy, put it back in stewpan, until it adheres rather thick to the back of the spoon, and use it for any kind of meat or poultry. If preserved tomato, proceed as for poivrade sauce, respecting the vegetables, omitting the vinegar, and adding the tomato, instead of brown sauce, with a tablespoonful of flour and broth to bring it to a proper thickness; pass it through a sieve, and serve as above.
156. CURRY SAUCE.—This I generally keep ready-made in the larder, being very fond of what I consider such wholesome food as curry; but not liking to be troubled with making it often, I cause my cook to prepare a certain quantity at a time. Mr. B. is very partial to carry, but he likes it in winter; for my part, I prefer it in summer. After having partaken of some one very hot summer's day, I felt quite cold. Capt. White, who has been nearly twenty years in the East Indies, tells me that it will produce that refreshing effect; I can enjoy it in any season.
Put into a pan four good-sized onions, sliced, and two peeled apples, with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham, a blade of mace, four peppercorns, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme; stir them over a moderate fire until the onions become brown and tender, then add two tablespoonfuls of the best curry powder, one of vinegar, two of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar; moisten it with a quart of broth or milk, or even water, with the addition of a little glaze; boil till in a pulp, and adhering rather thickly to the back of the spoon; pass all through a fine sieve or tammy, give it another boil for a few minutes, put it in a basin, and use when required. Any kind of meat, poultry, and fish, or parts of game, is excellent warmed in this sauce, and served with well-boiled and dry rice. I have kept this sauce in a cool place in the winter for a month, boiling it now and then. The quantity of powder may be omitted, and a spoonful of curry paste used, or some mangoes. (See Curries.)
157. A VERY GOOD AND USEFUL WHITE SAUCE (quite new).—Put a quart of white sauce in a stewpan of a proper size on a fire; stir continually until reduced to one-third; put two yolks of eggs in a basin, stir them well up, add your sauce gradually, keep stirring, put back in stewpan, set it to boil for a few minutes longer, then add one pint of boiling milk, which will bring it to its proper thickness; that is, when it adheres transparently to the back of a spoon; pass through a tammy into a basin, stir now and then till cold. If not immediately required, and I have any stock left, I use half of it with half of milk. I also try this way, which is very convenient: when the yolks are in, and well boiled, I put it in a large gallipot, and when cold, cover with pieces of paper; it will keep good in winter for two or three weeks, and above a week in summer: when I want to use a little of it, I only take a spoonful or two and warm it on the fire, and add enough milk or white broth to bring it to a proper thickness, and use when required. This sauce is very smooth, and never turns greasy; it lies beautifully on fowl, or any white made dish; the addition of a drop of cream gives it a very fine white appearance.
158. ONION PURÉE SAUCE.—Peel and cut six onions in slices; put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, a half one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in a pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown, then add one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a proper thickness, which should be a little thicker than melted butter; pass through a tammy, warm again, and serve with mutton cutlets, chops, boiled rabbits, or fowl; by not passing it, it will do for roast mutton and boiled rabbit as onion sauce.
159. PURÉE OF CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.—Boil a cauliflower well in three pints of water, in which you have previously put one ounce of butter, one tablespoon of salt; when done, chop it up, having prepared and slowly cooked in a stewpan an onion sliced, a little celery, half a turnip, one ounce of ham, two of butter, a little bayleaf, mace, add then the cauliflower, stir round, add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten as above for onions, pass, and finish the same way.
160. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SAUCE.—Peel twelve, and well wash; boil till tender, and proceed as above.
161. TURNIP SAUCE PURÉE.—Boil six middle-sized ones, press all the water you can out of them, and proceed as the above.
162. WHITE CUCUMBER PURÉE.—Peel two, or one large one, cut in slices, put in the stewpan with the same vegetables, &c, as for the cauliflower; when tender, add a tablespoonful of flour, four gills of milk or broth, boil, finishing as the cauliflower.
163. SORREL SAUCE, or PURÉE.—Wash well six handfuls of sorrel, put it nearly dry into a middle-sized stewpan, with a little butter; let it melt, add a tablespoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, half one of pepper; moisten to a thick puree, with milk, or broth, or cream; pass it through a sieve, put it back in a stewpan, warm again, add two whole eggs, two ounces of butter, and stir well, and serve where directed.
164. SPINAGE PURÉE, (see Vegetables, 2nd Course.) —Endive Purée is often used in France, and called chicorée. This Puree may be made like the cauliflower, or only plain boiled, plainly chopped, put into a pan with two ounces of butter, a gill of white sauce, a little grated nutmeg, and a little salt, pepper, and sugar.
165. STEWED PEAS AND SPRUE GRASS.—For cutlets, sweetbreads, fowls, or any dishes, they are applicable, (see Vegetables, 2nd Course,) also French beans, only using one-third of the quantity that you would for a made dish, or for an entremet.
166. SCOOPED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.—Scoop with a round cutter twenty-four pieces of artichoke, of the size of half an inch in diameter, wash, and put them in a small stewpan with half an ounce of butter and a quarter of an ounce of sugar; put it on a slow fire for a few minutes, add four tablespoonfuls of white sauce, eight of white broth or milk, let them simmer till tender, skim, mix a yolk of an egg with two tablespoonfuls of milk, pour in stewpan, and move it round very quickly, and serve; it must not be too thick, and the artichokes must be well done; they must not be in purée; they are good with or served under any white meat.
167. SCOOPED TURNIPS.—Proceed exactly the same, only serve a little thinner; they will not do if stringy. Use brown sauce instead of white.
168. BUTTON ONIONS.—The same, only make the sauce thinner, and boil longer, according to their size.
169. YOUNG CARROTS.—Scrape and trim to shape twenty small and young carrots, pass in sugar and butter, add white or brown sauce, but keep it thinner, as it requires a longer time boiling; when tender, if for white sauce, add a tablespoonful of liaison, stir, and serve.
170. WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE.—Use small white ones; cut the dark part out and remove the tail, wash in several waters, put in a stewpan with a little butter, salt, pepper, juice of lemon, saute it for a few minutes on the fire, add a gill of white sauce, four tablespoonfuls of broth, milk, or water; boil, and serve under any white meat.
171. WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE. —Peel two cucumbers, divide each lengthwise into four, remove the pips, and cut into pieces one inch long; add, in stewpan, one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, half of salt, let it stew on the fire for fifteen minutes, then add a gill of white sauce, eight spoonfuls of milk, broth, or water, simmer gently and skim; add a tablespoonful of liaison, and serve where directed, but observe that all these garnitures ought to be served under the meat and over poultry.
172. RAGOUT OF QUENELLES.—Make twelve nice small quenelles, (see Quenelles,) warm half a pint of white sauce, in which you have put four tablespoonfuls of milk, and half a teaspoonful of eschalot; when well done, pour on them the liaison, with the juice of a lemon, and serve. A few English truffles or mushrooms may be added to this sauce, allowing them time to cook.
173. MAITRE-D'HOTEL SAUCE.—Put eight spoonfuls of white sauce in a stewpan, with four of white stock or milk; boil it five minutes, then stir in two ounces of maitre-d'hotel butter; stir it quickly over the fire until the butter is melted, but do not let the sauce boil after the butter is in: this sauce should only be made at the time of serving. Melted butter may be used.
174. GREEN PEAS STEWED.—Put a pint of young peas, boiled very green, into a stewpan, with three tablespoonfuls of white sauce, two ounces of butter, a little sugar and salt, and two button onions, with parsley, tied together; boil ten minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of liaison, stir it in quickly, and serve.
175. GREEN PEAS WITH BACON.—Put a pint of well-boiled peas into a stewpan, with five spoonfuls of brown sauce, four of brown gravy, a teaspoonful of sugar, two button onions, and a bunch of parsley; let it boil about ten minutes; have ready boiled about a quarter of a pound of lean bacon, cut it in dice about a quarter of an inch square, add it to the peas, take out the onions and parsley, season with an ounce of butter, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; mix well together, stew twenty minutes, and serve.
176. BLANCHED MUSHROOMS.—Get a pottle of fresh mushrooms, cut off the dirt, and likewise the heads, (reserving the stalk for chopping,) wash the heads in a basin of clean water, take them out and drain in a sieve; put into a stewpan two wine-glasses of cold water, one ounce of butter, the juice of half a good lemon, and a little salt; turn or peel each head neatly, and put them into the stewpan immediately, or they will turn black; set your stewpan on a brisk fire, let them boil quickly five minutes, put them into a basin ready for use; chop the stalks and peel very fine, put them into stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of the liquor the mushrooms have been boiled in; let them simmer three minutes, put them into a jar, and use where indicated.
Observe: Turning or peeling mushrooms is an art that practice alone can attain; if they are very fresh and white, wash them quickly, and wipe them on a cloth; throw them thus into the liquid above mentioned.
177. ONIONS STUFFED.—Peel twelve large onions, cut a piece off at the top and bottom to give them a flat appearance, and which causes a bitter flavour if left,blanch them in four quarts of boiling water twenty minutes, then lay them on a cloth to dry; take the middle out of each onion, and fill them with veal forcemeat, (with a little chopped eschalot, parsley, and mushroom, mixed in it,) and put them in a saute-pan well buttered, cover them with white broth, let them simmer over a slow fire until covered with a glaze, and tender; turn them over, and serve where required.
178. HOT TARTAR SAUCE.—Put four tablespoonfuls of white sauce in a small stewpan, four of broth or milk, boil a few minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of the tartar sauce (see Salads) in it, stir it very quick with a wooden spoon, make it quite hot, but not boiling; put it on a dish, and serve where described.
179. MEPHISTOPHELIAN SAUCE.—Do not be afraid of the title, for it has nothing diabolical about it; the first time I tried it was at Mr. B.'s birthday party, when some of his friends, having over and over again drank his health, till he had hardly any health left to carry him to the drawing-room, where the coffee was waiting, about eleven o'clock,— asked for some anchovy sandwiches, but, from a mistake in not having any in the house, I composed this ravigotante sauce, which partly brought them back to their senses.
I cut up the remains of the turkey, rubbed some mustard over it, sprinkled a little salt and plenty of cayenne, put it on the gridiron on the fire, and made the following sauce: I chopped six eschalots, washed and pressed them in the corner of a clean cloth, then put them into a stewpan with one and a half wine-glassful of Chili vinegar, a chopped clove, a piece of garlic, two bay-leaves, an ounce of glaze, and boiled all together for ten minutes; then added four tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, a little sugar, and ten of gravy or brown sauce; boiled it a few minutes longer, then added a pat of butter, stirring it well in, removed the bay-leaf, and poured over turkey, and served.
180. HORSERADISH SAUCE.—Take half a stick of scraped horseradish of the usual size, grate it well, add to it a teaspoonful of mustard, a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper; and one teaspoonful of sugar; when mixed, add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and two teaspoonfuls of cream, and moisten it, until a proper consistency, with a little milk.
181. WILD FOWL SAUCE.—The following is a good sauce; the quantities are given for one wild duck.
Walnut catsup one tablespoonful; the same of Harvey's or Worcestershire sauce, the same of lemon-juice, a wineglass of red wine, a good slice of lemon-peel, one eschalot, minced, half a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper, one blade of mace, and a wine-glassful of gravy; boil ten minutes, serve very hot, and pour over the bird when cut up.
182. FUMET DE GIBIER SAUCE.—Take the remains or bones of game, (the back-bones of grouse are best,) chop them up small, put them in a stewpan, with a glass of white wine, an onion, a small piece of carrot, and of turnip sliced, a leaf of celery, a sprig of thyme, the same of parsley, a bay-leaf, a clove, half a blade of mace; stir over the fire five minutes, then add a quart of brown sauce, if too thick add some water, boil for about twenty minutes, skim, strain, and serve; a little lemon-juice and cayenne pepper may be added if approved of.
183. CAPER SAUCE.—Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan, place it on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, add one ounce of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of capers; shake the stewpan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a little pepper and salt, and serve where directed.
Sauces.
Sauces in cookery are like the first rudiments of grammar, which consist of certain rules called Syntax, and the foundation of all languages: these fundamental rules are nine, so has cookery the same number of sauces, which are the foundation of all others; but these, like its prototype the grammar, have two—brown and white, which bear a resemblance to the noun and verb, as they are the first and most easily learnt, and most constantly in use; the others are the adjuncts, pronouns, adverbs, and interjections; upon the proper use of the two principal ones depends the quality of all others, and the proper making of which tends to the enjoyment of the dinner; for to my fancy they are to cookery what the gamut is in the composition of music, as it is by the arrangement of the notes that harmony is produced, so should the ingredients in the sauce be so nicely blended, and that delightful concord should exist, which would equally delight the palate, as a masterpiece of a Mozart or a Rossini should delight the ear; but which, if badly executed, tantalize those nervous organs, affect the whole system, and prove a nuisance instead of a pleasure. I will therefore be very precise in describing the two, in order that, when you prepare them, you will not cause your guests to make grimaces at each other, whilst partaking of them at your festive board, as the present age is a little more refined than at the time of Dr. Johnson, and we are often obliged to swallow that we do not like. It is reported of him, that being at a ceremonious dinner-party, and indulging in his usual flow of wit, he unconsciously partook of a spoonful of very hot soup, which he immediately returned to the plate he had taken it from; and observing the astonishment of some of his neighbours, he very coolly remarked, "A fool would have burnt his mouth."
When we are at home alone, I very seldom trouble myself by making white or brown sauce, which I can avoid by selecting simplified dishes, which easily produce their own sauce whilst cooking them. But when I expect a little company, the first order I give my cook is to make half of the quantity of the following receipts for white and brown sauces, which ought to be kept hot in a bain-marie pan, previous to the dinner. No doubt the word bain-marie is new to you, I will therefore tell you what it is. It consists of a pan containing water to the depth of about four inches, generally placed at the side of the stove, in which are placed the saucepans and stewpans, in order that their contents may be kept hot, without injuring the flavour by over heating, and no kitchen from which a good dinner is expected to be sent should be without it. 135. WHITE SAUCE.—Cut and chop a knuckle of veal, weighing about four pounds, into large dice; also half a pound of lean bacon; butter the bottom of a large stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, add two onions, a small carrot, a turnip, three cloves, half a blade of mace, a bouquet of a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and six of parsley, add a gill of water, place over a sharp fire, stirring round occasionally, until the bottom of the stewpan is covered with whitish glaze, then fill up with three quarts of water, add a good teaspoonful of salt, and let simmer at the corner of the lire an hour and a half, keeping well skimmed; pass it through a hair sieve into a basin. In another stewpan put a quarter of a pound of butter, with which mix six ounces of flower, stirring over the fire about three minutes, take off, keep stirring until partly cold, when add the stock all at once; continually stirring and boiling for a quarter of an hour; add half a pint of boiling milk, stir a few minutes longer, add a little chopped mushrooms, if handy, pass through a hair sieve into a basin, until required for use, stirring it round occasionally until cold. The above being a simplified white sauce, will be referred to very often in the receipts.
136. BROWN SAUCE.—Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, rub it over the bottom, peel two or three large onions, cut them in thick slices, lay them on the bottom, cut into small pieces about two pounds of knuckle of veal,* all meat, or three pounds if with bone, a quarter of a pound of lean bacon, cut small, two cloves, a few peppercorns, a tablespoonful of salt, two bay leaves, a gill of water; set it on a brisk fire, let it remain ten minutes, when stir it well round, subdue the fire, let it remain twenty minutes longer, and stir now and then until it has a nice brown colour; fill your pan with three quarts of water; when boiling, set it on the corner of the stove, with the lid three parts on the saucepan; when boiling, skim fat and all; after one hour, or one hour and a half simmering, pass it through a sieve into a basin. To make the thickening or Roux for it, proceed as follows:—Roux. Put two ounces of butter into a pan, which melt on a slow fire, then add three ounces of flour, stir it with a wood spoon until getting a thin deep yellow colour; this in France is called Roux, being very useful in cookery, and will be often referred to in these receipts. This process will take ten minutes, when remove from the fire for two minutes to cool, then add at once three pints and a quarter of the above stock, very quickly set it on the fire to boil, remove to the corner to simmer, and skim. It ought to be entirely free from grease, and of a light chesnut colour.
137. DEMI-GLAZE—THIN BROWN SAUCE FOR MADE DISHES.—When I have a small dinner-party, I always, as I told you before, make small quantities of white and brown sauce as above, but this is a nice way of clarifying a brown sauce without much trouble, and makes it a beautiful transparent brown colour: but although I have made it quite a study, that each entree, or made dish for daily use, should make its own sauce, yet I must impress upon you that this sauce is the real key to cooking a good and ceremonious dinner. Put a pint of brown sauce, in a middle-sized stewpan, add to it half a pint of broth or consomme, put it on the stove, stir with wooden spoon, let it boil as fast as possible, take the scum off which will rise to the surface, reduce it until it adheres lightly to the spoon, pass it through a sieve or tammy into a basin, stir now and then until cold, to prevent a skin forming on the top, put it by until wanted for use. It will keep for a week in winter, by adding half a gill of white broth every other day, and giving it a boil; the addition of a tablespoonful of tomato sauce gives it a beautiful colour; use where indicated.
138. THIN BROWN SAUCE OF MUSHROOMS.—Put twelve tablespoonfuls of thin brown sauce in a small stewpan to boil, then have six or eight small mushrooms, well cleaned and washed, chop them fine, and place in sauce, and boil for five minutes; taste if it is to your liking; the addition of a little sugar is an improvement; a little cayenne, if liked, may be introduced. The sauce is good for cutlets, broiled fowl, and game, &c.
139. ESCHALOT SAUCE.—Chop fine about a good tablespoonful of eschalot, place it in the corner of a napkin, and pour water over; press until dry, and put in a small stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one clove, a little mace; boil two minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, boil a little longer, add a little sugar, and serve.
140. PIQUANT Or SHARP SAUCE.—Put two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, or eschalots, cleaned as above, into a stewpan; put also four tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and a bay-leaf, and boil; then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, half a one of chopped parsley, ditto of green gherkins; boil five minutes, skim, add a little sugar, taste if well seasoned, take out bay-leaf and serve.
141. TARRAGON SAUCE.—Put eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four of broth, into a stewpan; boil for a few minutes, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, have ready picked twenty leaves of fresh tarragon, put in to simmer two minutes, and serve with any kind of poultry, but especially spring chickens.
142. BROWN CUCUMBER SAUCE.—Peel a small fresh cucumber, cut it in neat pieces, put in a stewpan with a little sugar, add half an ounce of butter, set it on a slow fire, stir it now and then, add twelve tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and eight of broth; let it simmer till tender, skim the butter off, remove the cucumber into another stewpan, pass the sauce, reduce it a little, taste it, pour over, and serve. 144. MINCE HERB SAUCE.—Put two tablespoonsfuls of finely chopped onions in a stewpan, add a tablespoonful of oil, place it on the fire, stir a few minutes, add ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and four of broth or water; boil, skim; if too thick, and the scum should not rise, add half a gill of broth or water; boil, and reduce to a proper thickness, and add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley if at hand, one of mushrooms, and season with a little cayenne; the juice of a quarter of a lemon; serve. I often introduce a little garlic in this.
144. ITALIAN HERB SAUCE.—Proceed in the same way as the above, only add a little chopped thyme, and a small glass of sherry.
145. ROBERT SAUCE.—Peel and cut up two good0sized onions, put them in stewpan with an ounce of butter, till they are a nice yellow colour, then add eight tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, and two of water or broth; skim, boil quickly; when of a proper thickness add a good tablespoonful of French mustard; season rather high; if no French mustard, use English, but it completely changes the flavour, though still very palatable.
146. RAVIGOTE SAUCE.—Put in a stewpan one middle-sized onion sliced, with a little carrot, a little thyme, bay-leaf, one clove, a little mace, a little scraped horseradish, a little butter, fry a few minutes, then add three teaspoonfuls of vinegar, ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, four of broth; when boiling, skim, add a tablespoonful of currant jelly; when melted, pass all through a tammy, and serve with any kind of meat or poultry: with hare or venison it is excellent.
147. BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE.—Clean and cut twelve small mushrooms in slices, place them in a stewpan with a little butter, salt, pepper, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, set it on a slow fire for a few minutes, then add ten spoonfuls of demi-glaze; boil till they are tender, and serve. A little mushroom catsup may be introduced.
148. ORANGE SAUCE FOR GAME.—Peel half an orange, removing all the pith; cut it into slices, and then in fillets; put them in a gill of water to boil for two minutes; drain them on a sieve, throwing the water away; place in the stewpan two spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or ten of broth; and, when boiling, add the orange, a little sugar, simmer ten minutes, skim, and serve. The juice of half an orange is an improvement. This is served with ducklings and water-fowl: those that like may add cayenne and mustard.
149. GARLIC SAUCE.—Though many dislike the flavour of this root, yet those that like it ought not to be deprived of it. Put in a stewpan ten tablespoonfuls of demi-glaze, a little tomato sauce, if handy; boil it a few minutes, scrape half a clove of garlic, put it in with a little sugar, and serve.
150. MINT SAUCE FOR LAMB.—Take three tablespoonfuls of chopped leaves of green mint, three tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and put into a basin with half a pint of brown vinegar; stir it well up, add one saltspoonful of salt, and serve.
151. LIAISON OF EGGS.—Break the yolks of two eggs in a basin, with which mix six spoonfuls of milk, or eight of cream; pass it through a fine sieve, and use when directed.
152. ANCHOVY BUTTER SAUCE.—Put into a stewpan eight spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or three of broth; when boiling, add one ounce of anchovy butter; stir continually till melted; serve where directed.
153. SOYER'S SAUCE.—Put six spoonfuls of demi-glaze into a stewpan: when hot, add four spoonfuls of Soyer's Gentleman's Sauce; let boil, and serve with either chop, steak, outlet, poultry, or game.
154. PAPILLOTTE SAUCE.—Scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, put it in a pan with four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, stir over the fire for a few minutes, then add ten tablespoonfuls of brown sauce and boil; then add a tablespoonful of mushrooms chopped, one ditto of parsley, a little nutmeg, a little pepper and sugar, a quarter of a clove of scraped garlic; reduce till rather thickish; put on dish till cold, and use it for anything you may put up "en Papillotte."
155. TOMATO SAUCE.—If fresh, put six in a stewpan; having removed the stalk, and squeezed them in the hand to remove pips, &c, add half an onion, sliced, a sprig of thyme, a bay-leaf, half an ounce of celery, one ounce of ham or bacon, same of butter, teaspoonful of sugar, same of salt, a quarter one of pepper, set on fire to stew gently; when all tender, add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten with half a pint of broth, boil five minutes, add a little cayenne, taste if highly seasoned, pass it through sieve or tammy, put it back in stewpan, until it adheres rather thick to the back of the spoon, and use it for any kind of meat or poultry. If preserved tomato, proceed as for poivrade sauce, respecting the vegetables, omitting the vinegar, and adding the tomato, instead of brown sauce, with a tablespoonful of flour and broth to bring it to a proper thickness; pass it through a sieve, and serve as above.
156. CURRY SAUCE.—This I generally keep ready-made in the larder, being very fond of what I consider such wholesome food as curry; but not liking to be troubled with making it often, I cause my cook to prepare a certain quantity at a time. Mr. B. is very partial to carry, but he likes it in winter; for my part, I prefer it in summer. After having partaken of some one very hot summer's day, I felt quite cold. Capt. White, who has been nearly twenty years in the East Indies, tells me that it will produce that refreshing effect; I can enjoy it in any season.
Put into a pan four good-sized onions, sliced, and two peeled apples, with a quarter of a pound of butter, the same of lean ham, a blade of mace, four peppercorns, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme; stir them over a moderate fire until the onions become brown and tender, then add two tablespoonfuls of the best curry powder, one of vinegar, two of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar; moisten it with a quart of broth or milk, or even water, with the addition of a little glaze; boil till in a pulp, and adhering rather thickly to the back of the spoon; pass all through a fine sieve or tammy, give it another boil for a few minutes, put it in a basin, and use when required. Any kind of meat, poultry, and fish, or parts of game, is excellent warmed in this sauce, and served with well-boiled and dry rice. I have kept this sauce in a cool place in the winter for a month, boiling it now and then. The quantity of powder may be omitted, and a spoonful of curry paste used, or some mangoes. (See Curries.)
157. A VERY GOOD AND USEFUL WHITE SAUCE (quite new).—Put a quart of white sauce in a stewpan of a proper size on a fire; stir continually until reduced to one-third; put two yolks of eggs in a basin, stir them well up, add your sauce gradually, keep stirring, put back in stewpan, set it to boil for a few minutes longer, then add one pint of boiling milk, which will bring it to its proper thickness; that is, when it adheres transparently to the back of a spoon; pass through a tammy into a basin, stir now and then till cold. If not immediately required, and I have any stock left, I use half of it with half of milk. I also try this way, which is very convenient: when the yolks are in, and well boiled, I put it in a large gallipot, and when cold, cover with pieces of paper; it will keep good in winter for two or three weeks, and above a week in summer: when I want to use a little of it, I only take a spoonful or two and warm it on the fire, and add enough milk or white broth to bring it to a proper thickness, and use when required. This sauce is very smooth, and never turns greasy; it lies beautifully on fowl, or any white made dish; the addition of a drop of cream gives it a very fine white appearance.
158. ONION PURÉE SAUCE.—Peel and cut six onions in slices; put in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, a half one of pepper; place on a slow fire to simmer till in a pulp, stirring them now and then to prevent them getting brown, then add one tablespoonful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till a proper thickness, which should be a little thicker than melted butter; pass through a tammy, warm again, and serve with mutton cutlets, chops, boiled rabbits, or fowl; by not passing it, it will do for roast mutton and boiled rabbit as onion sauce.
159. PURÉE OF CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.—Boil a cauliflower well in three pints of water, in which you have previously put one ounce of butter, one tablespoon of salt; when done, chop it up, having prepared and slowly cooked in a stewpan an onion sliced, a little celery, half a turnip, one ounce of ham, two of butter, a little bayleaf, mace, add then the cauliflower, stir round, add a tablespoonful of flour, moisten as above for onions, pass, and finish the same way.
160. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE SAUCE.—Peel twelve, and well wash; boil till tender, and proceed as above.
161. TURNIP SAUCE PURÉE.—Boil six middle-sized ones, press all the water you can out of them, and proceed as the above.
162. WHITE CUCUMBER PURÉE.—Peel two, or one large one, cut in slices, put in the stewpan with the same vegetables, &c, as for the cauliflower; when tender, add a tablespoonful of flour, four gills of milk or broth, boil, finishing as the cauliflower.
163. SORREL SAUCE, or PURÉE.—Wash well six handfuls of sorrel, put it nearly dry into a middle-sized stewpan, with a little butter; let it melt, add a tablespoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, half one of pepper; moisten to a thick puree, with milk, or broth, or cream; pass it through a sieve, put it back in a stewpan, warm again, add two whole eggs, two ounces of butter, and stir well, and serve where directed.
164. SPINAGE PURÉE, (see Vegetables, 2nd Course.) —Endive Purée is often used in France, and called chicorée. This Puree may be made like the cauliflower, or only plain boiled, plainly chopped, put into a pan with two ounces of butter, a gill of white sauce, a little grated nutmeg, and a little salt, pepper, and sugar.
165. STEWED PEAS AND SPRUE GRASS.—For cutlets, sweetbreads, fowls, or any dishes, they are applicable, (see Vegetables, 2nd Course,) also French beans, only using one-third of the quantity that you would for a made dish, or for an entremet.
166. SCOOPED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.—Scoop with a round cutter twenty-four pieces of artichoke, of the size of half an inch in diameter, wash, and put them in a small stewpan with half an ounce of butter and a quarter of an ounce of sugar; put it on a slow fire for a few minutes, add four tablespoonfuls of white sauce, eight of white broth or milk, let them simmer till tender, skim, mix a yolk of an egg with two tablespoonfuls of milk, pour in stewpan, and move it round very quickly, and serve; it must not be too thick, and the artichokes must be well done; they must not be in purée; they are good with or served under any white meat.
167. SCOOPED TURNIPS.—Proceed exactly the same, only serve a little thinner; they will not do if stringy. Use brown sauce instead of white.
168. BUTTON ONIONS.—The same, only make the sauce thinner, and boil longer, according to their size.
169. YOUNG CARROTS.—Scrape and trim to shape twenty small and young carrots, pass in sugar and butter, add white or brown sauce, but keep it thinner, as it requires a longer time boiling; when tender, if for white sauce, add a tablespoonful of liaison, stir, and serve.
170. WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE.—Use small white ones; cut the dark part out and remove the tail, wash in several waters, put in a stewpan with a little butter, salt, pepper, juice of lemon, saute it for a few minutes on the fire, add a gill of white sauce, four tablespoonfuls of broth, milk, or water; boil, and serve under any white meat.
171. WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE. —Peel two cucumbers, divide each lengthwise into four, remove the pips, and cut into pieces one inch long; add, in stewpan, one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of sugar, half of salt, let it stew on the fire for fifteen minutes, then add a gill of white sauce, eight spoonfuls of milk, broth, or water, simmer gently and skim; add a tablespoonful of liaison, and serve where directed, but observe that all these garnitures ought to be served under the meat and over poultry.
172. RAGOUT OF QUENELLES.—Make twelve nice small quenelles, (see Quenelles,) warm half a pint of white sauce, in which you have put four tablespoonfuls of milk, and half a teaspoonful of eschalot; when well done, pour on them the liaison, with the juice of a lemon, and serve. A few English truffles or mushrooms may be added to this sauce, allowing them time to cook.
173. MAITRE-D'HOTEL SAUCE.—Put eight spoonfuls of white sauce in a stewpan, with four of white stock or milk; boil it five minutes, then stir in two ounces of maitre-d'hotel butter; stir it quickly over the fire until the butter is melted, but do not let the sauce boil after the butter is in: this sauce should only be made at the time of serving. Melted butter may be used.
174. GREEN PEAS STEWED.—Put a pint of young peas, boiled very green, into a stewpan, with three tablespoonfuls of white sauce, two ounces of butter, a little sugar and salt, and two button onions, with parsley, tied together; boil ten minutes; add two tablespoonfuls of liaison, stir it in quickly, and serve.
175. GREEN PEAS WITH BACON.—Put a pint of well-boiled peas into a stewpan, with five spoonfuls of brown sauce, four of brown gravy, a teaspoonful of sugar, two button onions, and a bunch of parsley; let it boil about ten minutes; have ready boiled about a quarter of a pound of lean bacon, cut it in dice about a quarter of an inch square, add it to the peas, take out the onions and parsley, season with an ounce of butter, and half a teaspoonful of sugar; mix well together, stew twenty minutes, and serve.
176. BLANCHED MUSHROOMS.—Get a pottle of fresh mushrooms, cut off the dirt, and likewise the heads, (reserving the stalk for chopping,) wash the heads in a basin of clean water, take them out and drain in a sieve; put into a stewpan two wine-glasses of cold water, one ounce of butter, the juice of half a good lemon, and a little salt; turn or peel each head neatly, and put them into the stewpan immediately, or they will turn black; set your stewpan on a brisk fire, let them boil quickly five minutes, put them into a basin ready for use; chop the stalks and peel very fine, put them into stewpan with three tablespoonfuls of the liquor the mushrooms have been boiled in; let them simmer three minutes, put them into a jar, and use where indicated.
Observe: Turning or peeling mushrooms is an art that practice alone can attain; if they are very fresh and white, wash them quickly, and wipe them on a cloth; throw them thus into the liquid above mentioned.
177. ONIONS STUFFED.—Peel twelve large onions, cut a piece off at the top and bottom to give them a flat appearance, and which causes a bitter flavour if left,blanch them in four quarts of boiling water twenty minutes, then lay them on a cloth to dry; take the middle out of each onion, and fill them with veal forcemeat, (with a little chopped eschalot, parsley, and mushroom, mixed in it,) and put them in a saute-pan well buttered, cover them with white broth, let them simmer over a slow fire until covered with a glaze, and tender; turn them over, and serve where required.
178. HOT TARTAR SAUCE.—Put four tablespoonfuls of white sauce in a small stewpan, four of broth or milk, boil a few minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of the tartar sauce (see Salads) in it, stir it very quick with a wooden spoon, make it quite hot, but not boiling; put it on a dish, and serve where described.
179. MEPHISTOPHELIAN SAUCE.—Do not be afraid of the title, for it has nothing diabolical about it; the first time I tried it was at Mr. B.'s birthday party, when some of his friends, having over and over again drank his health, till he had hardly any health left to carry him to the drawing-room, where the coffee was waiting, about eleven o'clock,— asked for some anchovy sandwiches, but, from a mistake in not having any in the house, I composed this ravigotante sauce, which partly brought them back to their senses.
I cut up the remains of the turkey, rubbed some mustard over it, sprinkled a little salt and plenty of cayenne, put it on the gridiron on the fire, and made the following sauce: I chopped six eschalots, washed and pressed them in the corner of a clean cloth, then put them into a stewpan with one and a half wine-glassful of Chili vinegar, a chopped clove, a piece of garlic, two bay-leaves, an ounce of glaze, and boiled all together for ten minutes; then added four tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, a little sugar, and ten of gravy or brown sauce; boiled it a few minutes longer, then added a pat of butter, stirring it well in, removed the bay-leaf, and poured over turkey, and served.
180. HORSERADISH SAUCE.—Take half a stick of scraped horseradish of the usual size, grate it well, add to it a teaspoonful of mustard, a teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper; and one teaspoonful of sugar; when mixed, add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and two teaspoonfuls of cream, and moisten it, until a proper consistency, with a little milk.
181. WILD FOWL SAUCE.—The following is a good sauce; the quantities are given for one wild duck.
Walnut catsup one tablespoonful; the same of Harvey's or Worcestershire sauce, the same of lemon-juice, a wineglass of red wine, a good slice of lemon-peel, one eschalot, minced, half a salt-spoonful of cayenne pepper, one blade of mace, and a wine-glassful of gravy; boil ten minutes, serve very hot, and pour over the bird when cut up.
182. FUMET DE GIBIER SAUCE.—Take the remains or bones of game, (the back-bones of grouse are best,) chop them up small, put them in a stewpan, with a glass of white wine, an onion, a small piece of carrot, and of turnip sliced, a leaf of celery, a sprig of thyme, the same of parsley, a bay-leaf, a clove, half a blade of mace; stir over the fire five minutes, then add a quart of brown sauce, if too thick add some water, boil for about twenty minutes, skim, strain, and serve; a little lemon-juice and cayenne pepper may be added if approved of.
183. CAPER SAUCE.—Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted butter into a stewpan, place it on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, add one ounce of fresh butter and one tablespoonful of capers; shake the stewpan round over the fire until the butter is melted, add a little pepper and salt, and serve where directed.