Alexis Soyer's Frontispiece and Contents
Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Alexis Soyer Recipes and Modern Redaction Recipes Pages — This page gives you the Frontispiece and Full Contents from The Modern Housewife (Ménagère) 1849 volume, The Modern Housewife or Ménagère. Here you will be presented with the original frontispiece is as close a representation to the original as possible. Also included here is the full table of contents, with links through to original recipes and their modern redactions (where available). This is the first time that Eliza Acton's 'Shilling Cookery for the People' has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
The text presented here is based on that from the 1849 First Edition of Alexis Soyer's cookbook, with additions and amendments to separate out alternate version of recipes so that they can be linked cleanly via HTML.
The text presented here is based on that from the 1849 First Edition of Alexis Soyer's cookbook, with additions and amendments to separate out alternate version of recipes so that they can be linked cleanly via HTML.
Alexis Soyer's Frontispiece and Preface from The Modern Housewife or Ménagère
THE
Modern Housewife
OR
Illustrated with Engravings,
INCLDING THE
Eloise, ma chere amie,— Six months have now elapsed since the publication of our culinary and domestic correspondence. Hardly had I time to correct the numerous mistakes which were in the first edition, before 15,000 copies were issued from the press, and nearly all purchased by the public. I am confident you will agree with me, that we cannot feel and express too much gratitude for such extraordinary patronage. You reproach me for being silent so long; the reasons, you must be aware, have been serious illness, and other family troubles, which no human being can be free from; but, thanks to Providence, now all is well; and to prove to you that I have not been indolent, I herewith enclose a very novel, interesting, and useful subject: it is a correct resumé of every kind of condiment, its origin, country, nutritive quality, and its effect on the human frame. It has, I assure you, taken some hours of study to arrive at the conclusion of my researches, and I sincerely hope they may be the means of causing to be more frequently used those wholesome aromatic plants which nature has so bountifully spread over the globe, and lessen the false manipulations of inexperienced persons, so pernicious to humanity. Having now carefully revised and added new receipts to our culinary journal, I beg of you to call this morning upon the printer, Savill, of Chandos-street, and get composed, in good plain reading type, the enclosed; it will probably make forty more pages. Send me a proof as soon as possible, which I will immediately correct and return to you, as you say our publishers are now getting short of the work. I would not think of going to press this time with less than 5000. Kind remembrances of love and friendship to you and yours. Dear Eloise, HORTENSE. The extraordinary sale of this work, unparalleled in the history of the book trade, (for the short time from its publication, the 7th of Sept. 1849,) has caused many to doubt the fact. The author has therefore inserted the following letter, received from his publishers: Stationers' Hall Court, Feb. 15, 1850. Dear Sir, We beg to inform you, that the sale of your "Modern Housewife" is still in great demand, and we would therefore advise you to go to press immediately with 3000 or 4000, as they are certain of being wanted early in March. "We remain, your most obedient servants, Simpkin, Marshall, & Co. To M. Soyer, Reform Club. P.S.—The last number mentioned would be preferable, as completing the Twenty Thousandth copy of your last work. Let us know, also, when the 7th edition of your "Gastronomic Regenerator" can be delivered to us. Bifrons Villa, St. J____ W____ . September 29th, 1849. Eloise, Dearest,— Please in your name, and also in mine, return our sincere thanks to our friends, and especially to the fair daughters of Albion, for the flattering reception they have given to our culinary correspondence, or gastronomic journal, with which I beg of you especially to couple that powerful organ, the public press, which in a few days, like the commotion of an earthquake, has shaken the domesticated nerves of thousands of housewives throughout the United Kingdom, merely to inform them that I, "Mrs. B.," and you, "Mrs L.," humble but domesticated women, have had a friendly correspondence respecting housewifery in all its branches; the echo of which, believe me, Eloise, has done more in a few days, than half a century could ever have accomplished for us in our happy but obscure sphere; therefore you must not be too proud of our success, for be well convinced that it is more due to the iron tongue of the press than to the brain that has conceived it. A Second Edition is already wanted, say you—"I can hardly believe it,"—and that in less than a fortnight. At all events, the only novelty in this one must be confined to corrections, which I can assure you, thanks to you and the printer's carelessness^ are tolerably numerous; therefore, follow your publisher's advice, and cause the steam press to issue, as quickly as possible, 6000 copies, which will form the Second Edition. With the greatest esteem, I remain, ever yours, Hortense. P.S.—I have forwarded you one of the Magic Stoves, which I have just received from Gardner's. I had this morning one on our breakfast-table, and cooked in a very short time, at a trifling expense, two of Soyer's new mutton chops (No. 452), four sausages, and eight pieces of very thin bacon, and also in the fat fried two slices of bread; we were eight to breakfast, and all enjoyed this extraordinary novelty.You reproach me for not sending you one earlier; that which I intended for you has been taken by the Marquis of N. and party to Egypt, with the view of having a dinner cooked on the top of the Pyramids.
INTRODUCTION. DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B—— and MRS. L——, HER FRIEND AND VISITOR. Mrs. L. I have now, my dear Mrs. B., been nearly a fortnight at your delightful Villa, and I must say, with all truth, that I never fared better in my life, yet I am considered somewhat of an epicure, as is likewise my husband; but, of course, our means being rather limited, we are obliged to live accordingly. Mrs. B. Well, so must we; and I assure you that during the first few years of our marriage, our pecuniary resources were but small, but even then I managed my kitchen and housekeeping at so moderate an expense, compared with some of our neighbours, who lived more expensively, but not so well as we did, that, when any of them dined with us, they flattered me with the appellation of the ' Model Housekeeper,' and admired the comforts of our table, but would leave with the impression that I must be the most extravagant of wives. Now, believe me, I have always prided myself, whether having to provide for a ceremonious party, or dining by ourselves, upon having everthing properly done and served, that so, if any friends should come in by accident or on business, they were generally well pleased with our humble hospitality, and that without extravagance, as my husband is well convinced; for, when we dine with any acquaintance of ours, he is very eager to persuade them to adopt my system of management; though he is no great judge of what is called the highest style of cookery, yet he does not like to live badly at any time, as he very justly says, it matters not how simple the food,—a chop, steak, or a plain boiled or roast joint, but let it be of good quality and properly cooked, and every one who partakes of it will enjoy it. Mrs. L. Nothing more true! Mrs. B. But since you talk of limited income and economy, let me relate to you a conversation which occurred a few years ago between Mr. B. and a friend of his, who declared to him that his income would never allow him to live in such luxury, which he called a comfortable extravagance. "Extravagance," exclaimed Mr. B., "if you have a few minutes to spare, I will convince you of the contrary, and prove to you that such an expression is very unjust, if applied to my wife's management. Now, to begin, what sum should you suppose would cover our annual housekeeping expenditure, living as we do, in a style of which you so much approve, but consider so extravagant; there are ten of us in family—viz., myself and wife, three children, two female servants, and three young men employed in my business, and including our usual Christmas party, which of course you know of, (having participated in the last two,) also two separate birthday parties of twenty persons each, and three juvenile petits-soupers and dances for the children upon their natal anniversaries, besides a friend dropping in occasionally, which is never less than once or twice a week."—" Well, I do not know," answered our friend; "but having nearly the same number to provide for, and in a more humble way, my expenses for housekeeping are never less than £——— per annum."—"Less than what!" exclaimed Mr. B.; "why, my dear friend, you must be mistaken," at the same time ringing the bell. "I wish I were, with all my heart," was the reply, as the servant entered the room. "Jane," said Mr. B., " ask your mistress to step this way for a few minutes; I wish to look at her housekeeping book." But being busy at the time in the kitchen, I sent up a key for him to get it, which happened to be a wrong one; upon discovering the mistake, I sent up the right, with an apology for not coming myself, as I was superintending the cooking of some veal broth, which the doctor had ordered for our poor little Henry, who was ill at the time. "Well," said his friend, "there is a wife for you; I must confess mine can hardly find the way to the kitchen stairs." "Now!" said my husband, opening my desk, and, taking up my book, he showed him the last year's expenditure, which was £—— . "No! no! that is impossible," replied his friend. "But," said Mr. B., "there it is in black and white." "Why, good heavens!" exclaimed the other, "without giving so many parties, and also two less in family, my expenditure is certainly greater." To which Mr. B. replied, "Sol should imagine, from the style in which I saw your table provided the few days we were on a visit to your house; therefore I am not in the least astonished. Here, however, is the account for the closing year, just made up to the 28th December, 1848. Let us see what it amounts to, probably to £50 or £60 more." "So, so," replied the other, "that is an increase."—" Let it be so," said Mr. B., "but you must remember that we are twelvemonths older, and as our business increases, so do we increase our comforts; and this year Mrs. B. with the children had a pretty little house at Ramsgate for two months, which will account for the greater part of it." Mrs. L. But, my dear Mrs. B., I am as much astonished as your friend could possibly have been. I should, however, have liked you to explain the matter; but here comes your husband, who will probably initiate me in your culinary secrets. Good morning, my dear Mr. B., I hope I have the pleasure of seeing you well. Mr. B. Perfectly so, Madam. Mrs. L. I have been talking to Mrs. B. about her system of housekeeping, who was relating to me a conversation you had with a gentleman, astonished with its economy. I am also surprised, and should like to take a few leaves out of your most excellent book, if you will allow me. Mr. B. Certainly, my dear madam; in my wife, without flattering her too much, you see almost an accomplished woman, (in hearing such praise Mrs. B. retired, saying, "How foolishly you talk, Richard;") she speaks two or three different languages tolerably well, and, as an amateur, is rather proficient in music, but her parents, very wisely considering household knowledge to be of the greatest importance, made her first acquainted with the keys of the store-room before those of the piano; that is the only secret, dear madam; and this is the explanation that I gave to my friend, who thought it a good jest, and one of truth. I told him to do the same by his two daughters, which would not only make them more happy through life, but transmit that happiness to their posterity by setting an example worthy of being followed. I always say, give me a domesticated wife, and with my industry, I would not change my position for a kingdom; "Very true, very true," was my friend's answer, and we then parted. I have never seen him since nor his wife, who was probably offended at the economical propositions of her husband; for nothing, you are well aware, is more common that for people to be offended when told the truth respecting themselves; or perhaps she was too advanced in years to think of changing her ideas of housekeeping. I see, my dear Mrs. L., the Brougham is waiting at the gate to convey you to the railway; allow me to see you safe to the station; you will not have may minutes to spare, for the train will shortly be up. About an hour after the above conversation, Mrs. L. was seen entering her cottage at Oatlands, fully resolved to follow as closely as possible the economic management of Mrs. B.; but a little reflection soon made her perceive that she possessed only the theory, and was sadly deficient in the practice : she then determined to beg of her friend a few receipts in writing, and immediately dispatched the following letter :— Oatlands Cottage; Jan 1st 1849. ————My dear Hortense;—Upon my arrival at home, I am happy to say that I found all quite well, and delighted to see me, after (to them) so long an absence as a fortnight, which my husband was gallant enough to say appeared months; but to myself the time appeared to pass very swiftly; for, indeed, every day I felt so much more interested in watching closely how well you managed your household affairs, that, believe me, you have quite spoiled me, especially with your recherche style of cookery, which even now I cannot make out how you could do it at such moderate expense: and, apropos of cooking, Mr L., expecting me home to dinner, had, I have no doubt, a long interview and discussion with Cook respecting all the bill of fare. "Well sir," I will suppose she said, "what can be better than a fine fat goose, stuffed with sage and ingyons; we have a very fine 'un hanging in the larder." (You must observe, dear, that my cook is plain in every way.) "A very excellent notion that, Cook; nothing can be better than a good goose;" was no doubt, my husband's answer, who, although very fond of a good dinner, cannot endure the trouble of ordering it.Well, then, here I am in my little drawing room (the window slightly open), enjoying the fresh country air, which seems to have been amalgamated with a strong aroma from the aforesaid goose, especially the sage and onions; and I am almost certain that the inseparable apple-sauce is burnt or puset on the stove, from the brown smoke now ascending from the grating over the kitchen window. This style is now to me quite unbearable, and I mean to have quite a reform in my little establishment, and first of all to bring up my daughter in the way recommended by Mr. B. to his friend, to make her more domesticated than I am myself, as I begin to perceive that a knowledge of household affairs is as much required as intellectual education; and, for my part, I have come to determination of adopting your system of management as closely as possible; but first, you must know, that, without your scientific advice, it will be totally impossible; therefore I beg to propose (if you can afford the time) that you will in writing, give me the description how you lay out your breakfast-table, with the addition of a few receipts for the making of rolls and the other breakfast bread, which I so much enjoyed whilst with you; even how to make toast, and more especially how you make coffee, chocolate, cocoa (tea, of course, I know). And should this meet with your approbation, I will make a little journal, which may some day or other be useful to our families and friends. Until I hear from you, I shall be waiting with anxiety for your decision upon this important and domestic subject. Remaining, dear Hortense, Yours very sincerely, ELOISE. LETTER No. II. From Mrs. B—— , in reply. Bifrons Villa; Jan. 3rd, 1849. My dear Eloise,—In answer to yours, I agree, with the greatest pleasure, to contribute towards your domesticated idea, which, I must say, is very original, and may, as you observe, prove useful; but why should we confine our culinary journal to breakfasts only? why not go through the different meals of the day? that is, after breakfast, the luncheon; then the nursery dinner at one; and here it strikes me that in that series, we might introduce some receipts, to be called, Comforts for Invalids; even our servants' dinners and teas; then the early dinner at two or three, for people in business, the parlour dinner at six, the coffee after dinner, and even suppers for a small ball or evening party; but all on a moderate scale, leaving the aristocratic style entirely to its proper sphere.To show my approbation of your idea, I enclose herewith the first receipt, How to make Toast. |