Francatelli Recipes for Stocks and Sauces — Chapter 1
Welcome to Fabulous Fusion Food's Francatelli Recipes for Stocks and Sauces — This page gives you the entire contents of the First Chapter: Stocks and Sauces from Charles Elmé Francatelli's 1861 volume, The Cook's Guide and Housekeeper's & Butler's Assistant. Each recipe is given here in its original form, with a link underneath to the modern redaction, should you wish to replicate it. This is the first time that Francatelli's book has been made available in its entirety on the internet. Enjoy...
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book.
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book and redacted specifically for this website. Please do not copy or use the content of these pages without first gaining permission.
The text presented here is derived directly from Francatelli's book.
Francatelli's Frontispiece and Table of Contents
THE COOK'S GUIDE,
AND
HOUSEKEEPERS & BUTLER’S ASSISTANT
INTRODUCTION
It ought never to be lost sight of, that good stocks, broths, gravies, and essences of meats, &c., are essential to the basis of all culinary compositions, especially when it is desirable to attain any degree of perfection in the various preparations required for the production of a recherché dinner. On ordinary occasions, and when dining en famille, these may be in a great measure dispensed with ; yet, even then, a little good stock ready to hand will ever prove a great element towards success. And it is therefore that I consider it most useful to commence by giving easy instructions for what I may term "The very soul of all Cookery," namely—
The heat must then be slackened by placing ashes upon the fire in order to abate its fierceness, so as to allow the glaze to attain a light-brown colour, without its being burnt and carbonized: if this latter accident happen, it tends considerably to diminish the stomachic qualities and flavour of the stock or consommé. As soon as the consolidation of the glaze is effected, make up the fire, fill up the stock-pot, and when it boils, skim it thoroughly; after which garnish with six carrots, four onions, three turnips, four leeks, two heads of celery, and an onion in which twelve cloves have been stuck; season with three ounces of salt, and having allowed the stock to continue gently boiling for about five hours, remove the grease from its surface; and then proceed to strain it through a sieve into clean pans for use, as will be directed hereafter.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's The Stock-pot
Break up a knuckle of veal and place it in a five-gallon stewpan, with any trimmings of meat you hay have, a couple of rabbits from which you have removed the fillets for and entrée, and also an old hen — the fillets of which may serve for force-meat; to these add about a pound of lean bacon or ham; fill up with water, boil and skim the stock well, garnish with four carrots, two turnips, two heads of celery, and a handful of parsley tied up with a bay-leaf and a good sprig of thyme, a handful of mushrooms, a blade of mace, six cloves, twelve peppercorns, and two ounces of salt: allow your stock to boil very gently by the side of a slow fire for about four hours, skimming it occasionally; and then strain it off into clean pans for use as occasion requires.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's White Veal Stock
First, place some flattened pieces of beef-suet at the bottom of a stewpan capable of holding the intended quantity of gravy to be produced (calculating at the rate of one and a half pound of meat to a quart of water), cover the suet with thick slices of onions, and over all put thick slices of beef, or any trimmings of meat or bones you may happen to have by you; moisten with stock or water in sufficient quantity barely to cover the surface of the meat, and next set the stewpan thus prepared on a brisk fire, to boil sharply until the liquor is reduced to a glaze; when, after slackening the heat of the fire, it must be further allowed to consolidate by reduction, in order that it may become of a very brown colour without burning. The stewpan must now be filled up with cold water, allowed to boil, be well skimmed, garnished with three carrots, two heads of celery, a blade of mace, eight cloves stuck in an onion, twelve peppercorns, and two ounces of salt. The quantities of garnish and seasoning here named are intended for a three or four gallon sized stewpan. When the gravy has boiled gently for three or four hours, strain it off carefully for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Brown Gravy
Line the bottom of a stewpan of suitable size with slices of raw ham or lean bacon; place thereon carcasses of any kind of game you may happen to have; — I say carcasses because it will readily be understood that to use any kind of game for this purpose without having previously extracted the fillets for entrées, &c.. would be extravagant indeed: the remains of roasted game would serve in this case equally well. Thus, having placed the game in the stewpan, moisten with a quart of stock, boil it down sharply over a good fire until reduced to a glaze; fill up with stock or water; garnish with carrots, onions, celery, six cloves and a little salt; and, after being well skimmed, and allowed to boil gently until the meat is thoroughly done, strain it off for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Game Stock
Garnish the bottom of a large stewpan as directed in No. 3, and then, having broken up any bones from cold joints or otherwise, place them in the stewpan also, and proceed in all other respects according to instructions for the preparation of brown gravy. This economical stock may be further improved by clarifying it with one pound of fresh lean beef chopped fine, pounded and mixed with a quart of cold water, and two whites of eggs; the whole to be stirred into the broth, care being taken first to free it from every particle of grease; and after allowing this stock to boil for half and hour beside the fire, it may be strained through a cloth or napkin for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Economical Stock
When from some cause or other your stocks are not bright and clear, as they should be if properly attended to in boiling down to a glaze, or else through insufficient skimming, the evil so produced may be remedied thus:— Chop a pound of lean beef or veal, and then pound it to a very fine smooth pulp with three whites of eggs in a mortar; to this add a quart of cold water; mix the whole in the stewpan of broth to be clarified, due care having been previously taken to remove every particle of grease: let the mixture now be stirred over a brisk fire until it boils, then to be removed to the side, there to continue gently boiling for half an hour; when, if perfectly bright, it must be strained through a cloth or napkin into an earthen pan.
It happens sometimes, that from either the stock being very thick and dull, or more frequently through want of proper attention to the foregoing instructions, the first clarification provides insufficient to clear the stock in a satisfactory manner. This fault will be rectified by the addition of two more whites of egg well whipped in a pint of cold water, which being well mixed in the stock, and allowed to boil for a quarter of an hour longer, will then become bright enough.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's How to Clarify Stocks or Broths
Break up about ten pounds of knuckles of veal, and place them in a stock-pot together with four calf's feed, and an old hen; fill up with about four gallons of water, and having set it to boil on the fire, let it be thoroughly skimmed, and then garnished with four carrots, two heads of celery, four onions, a bunch of parsley tied up with two bay-leaves, some thyme and a little marjoram; season with two ounces of salt, eight cloves, and twenty peppercorns; and, after the stock has boiled very gently for about five hours, without having sensibly diminished in quantity, proceed to strain it off into pans to cool in the larder for the next days process; viz. that of clarification.
In order to accomplish this very essential operation with any chance of success, it is of the last importance to pay strict attention to the removal of every particle of grease from the surface of the pans containing the aspic stock. This is to be done by first scraping off all the fatty substance with a spoon, and then pouring a little hot water over the stock, which should be immediately drained off, and the surface dabbed over with a clean napkin, so as to absorb any remaining grease. This done, the aspic stock should be placed in a proper-sized stewpan, and set on the fire to dissolve; when, after having lightly drawn some pieces of paper over its surface in order to remove any remaining stray grease, you must now mix in six whole eggs, previously whipped together with a pint of water, half a pint of common French white wine, and a wineglassful of tarragon vinegar; this done, place the stock upon the fire, and continue whipping it with a wire whisk until it begins to boil; remove it to the side of the fire, there to continue gently simmering with the stewpan lid on, for about half an hour: it must then be passed through a jelly-bag: or, if very clear and bright, it may be passed through a napkin and poured into deep sautapans placed upon ice, ready for use, as will the directed hereafter.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Aspic Jelly
Put a quart of good stock broth in a stewpan; add six shallots, two bay-leaves, a good sprig of thyme, six cloves, a bit of mace, and four ounces of gelatine: place this upon the fire, and continue stirring it until the gelatine becomes thoroughly dissolved: it must then be removed from the fire to cool. Next, whip three whites of eggs with half a pint of cold water, and a table-spoonful of tarragon vinegar, and having well mixed this in the aspic, stir it over the fire until it boils; and then, after allowing it to boil for ten minutes longer pass it either through a jelly-bag or a napkin: it will then be fit for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Economical Aspic Jelly
Put a pound of butter into a stewpan upon a slow fire to dissolve an throw up the milk it contains in the form of skum; remove this with a spoon, and then pour off the pure oiled butter into another clean stewpan; add to this a pound of butter into another clean stewpan; add to this a pound of sifted flour, and, after having well mixed both together with a wooden spoon, continue stirring the thickening over a slow fire for about an hour, for the purpose of baking it of a very light brown or fawn colour; it must then be poured into an earthern pan to be kept ready for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Brown Thickening for Sauces
For this preparation it will only be necessary to follow the directions set forth in No. 9, with this exception, that the thickening must not be allowed to become at all coloured; and in order to prevent this accident, it will be essential to remember that it must be baked over a very slow fire.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's White Thickening for Sauces
Chop up the remains of game or bones thereof, and put them into a stewpan with a bit of butter, four shalots chopped, a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme, three cloves, and a few peppercorns; fry these over the fire until they become browned; then add a pint of stock or water; boil this for a quarter of an hour, and strain it through a sieve for use, as occasion requires.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Extract of Game for Gravy
Put about a gallon of stock, No. 1, or brown gravy, No. 3, into a stewpan on the fire; and when it is warm, stir into this three-quarters of a pound of brown thickening No. 9. Continue stirring the sauce on the fire until it begins to boil, and then remove it to the side, there to remain very gently simmering for an hour, with the lid on the stewpan; by that time all the butter of which the thickening is composed will have risen to the surface; this, together with the skum, must be removed; and after allowing the sauce to boil very gently by the side of the stove for another quarter of an hour, continuously removing the skum as it rises, strain the sauce into a basin for use, as will be hereafter directed.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Brown Sauce
This sauce is prepared in the same manner as brown sauce, No. 12 [see the Francatelli brown sauce recipe], excepting that, white veal stock, No. 2, and white thickening, No. 10, must be used for this purpose.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's White Sauce
Whenever any kind of soup or sauce-stock has been strained off, it is an important part of good management that the stock-pot or stewpan should be filled up a second time, with the addition of half the original quantity of vegetables and seasoning; and allowed to boil very gently for about six hours, and then strained off; and, after being freed from grease, boiled down to glaze over a brisk fire. The proper manner for finishing the latter part of this operation is to remove the glaze from the large stewpan when the broth is reduced to be further reduced by gently boiling on the corner of the stove until it presents the appearance of thin treacle; during the operation of boiling down, the stock must be frequently skimmed to remove all impurities as they naturally rise to the surface. When the glaze has attained its proper consistency, let it be strained into a pan and kept in a cool place for use, as will be hereafter indicated.
Note.—Glaze is also made with beef, veal, old hens, or any kinds of game-stocks prepared for that purpose; and it is easily understood that the cost would be compensated by the greater degree of perfection; yet as expense is to be avoided—on ordinary occasions at least—I have preferred giving details for the preparation of the most economical sort of glaze.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Economy of Second Stocks or Broths
Put four ounces of flour into a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter; knead these together smoothly by working them with a wooden spoon; next add an onion, a small carrot, half a head of celery, some parsley, a bayleaf, and thyme (the vegetables cut thin), a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt; moisten with a pint and a half of milk, stir the sauce over the fire while it boils sharply for twenty minutes; then strain it through a tammy cloth or pointed strainer into a basin—afterwards to be immediately removed into a convenient sized covered stewpan or bainmarie, for use.
Note.— allow me here to impress upon your minds how all-important it is that whenever you are stirring a sauce upon the fire, you must bear with some strength and a little tact on the edge of the bowl of the wooden spoon, so as to prevent the sauce from burning at the bottom of the stewpan while it is being reduced; for rest assured that whenever through negligence this occurs, the sauce is spoilt. These remarks apply more especially to such sauces as contain milk or cream.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's White Béchamel Sauce
Put a pint of white sauce, No. 13, into a stewpan, with a few sliced mushrooms or some mushroom juice, reduce this by stirring it over the fire for ten minutes, then add half a pint of cream; and, as soon as the sauce comes to a boil, strain it into a basin or stewpan for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Cream Béchamel Sauce
Proceed as directed in No. 16, and when the sauce is reduced, remove it from the fire for a few minutes in order to lessen the heat, and then stir into it a leason* of four yolks of eggs, half a pint of cream, a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt, a teaspoonful of pounded sugar, and the juice of half a lemon; now stir the sauce quickly over the fire again for five minutes, in order to set the leason, and then strain it for use.
*From the French liaison, used here to mean a thickening or binding.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Allemande Sauce
Mix well in a stewpan two ounces of flour, one ounce of butter, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, to these add a pint of milk; stir over the fire for ten minutes, and strain off for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Economical White Sauce
Cut up into very small square pieces an ounce of lean ham or bacon, the same quantities of carrot, celery, and onion, a bay-leaf and thyme, twenty peppercorns, and a bit of mace; fry these ingredients in a small stewpan, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, until the whole becomes well browned; add a wineglass of vinegar and half that quantity of mushroom catsup, and a teaspoonful of anchovy; and when this has boiled down to half its original quantity, then add about half a pint of brown sauce, a few spoonfuls of good stock, and a wineglassful of sherry; let the sauce boil gently by the side of the fire, and throw up the grease, &c., which having been removed, strain through a sieve or strainer into a small stewpan for use.
Note.—It frequently happens in small households that ready-made brown sauce is not to be had; in such cases, and in order to save time and expense, a little thickening can be easily made by using for that purpose equal portion of butter and flour kneaded together, and stirred quickly over a slow fire for three minutes, and moistened with good stock, or any kind of broth.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Poivrade Sauce
Is made by adding to a pint of brown sauce a glass of red wine, a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, a teaspoonful of anchovy, a lump of sugar, a little nutmeg, and some chopped parsley; boil well together for five minutes, and then work in a pat of butter.
Note.—This sauce is used for dressed fish.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Genoese Sauce
Ready preserved pulp of this powerfully anti-scorbutic vegetable is always to be had at Crosse and Blackwell's warehouse, Soho-square. Put into a small stewpan six sliced shalots, a bay-leaf and thyme, and a wineglass of vinegar; boil these gently for five minutes, then add about a quarter of a pound of tomato pulp, an ounce of glaze, No. 14, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and a lump of sugar; stir over the fire until the whole has boiled for five minutes, then pass it with pressure through a pointed tin strainer into a small stewpan for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Tomato Sauce
First prepare of gherkins, capers, and sholots, all chopped as fine as dust, a tablespoonful of each; place these in a small stewpan with a little pepper and a wineglassful of vinegar; set this to boil for about four minutes, then add rather better than half a pint of good stock, an ounce of brown thickening, No. 9, a small bit of glaze and a teaspoonful of anchovy; boil, skim and pour into a small stewpan for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Piquant Sauce
Place in a small stewpan a dessert-spoonful of very finely chopped shalots, an equal quantity of salad-oil, a bay-leaf and thyme; and stir this over the fire in order to fry the shalot without allowing it to acquire any colour whatever, as, in that case, the shalot would become bitter and spoil the sauce. When the shalot is fried in a satisfactory manner, add thereto a good tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, a glass of sherry, a glass of mushroom catsup, a teaspoonful of anchovy, half a pint of stock, and an ounce of thickening, No. 9; stir over the fire until the sauce boils, and then allow it to throw up by the side for ten minutes; skim it, and pour it into a stewpan for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Italian Sauce
Put a pint of good stock into a stewpan with an ounce and a half of thickening, No. 9; stir over the fire until it boils, and then add a glass of madeira or sherry, a glass of mushroom catsup, and a small pinch of cayenne; allow the sauce to remain gently boiling by the side of the fire to clear itself, for about a quarter of an hour; remove the skum, boil it down for five minutes longer, and then add a small piece of glaze, and when this is dissolved, strain the sauce into a small stewpan for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Financiere Sauce
Put four ounces of butter in a stewpan with one ounce of flour, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt; knead these well together with a wooden spoon, add rather less than half a pint of stock, or water, a teaspoonful of anchovy, a tablespoonful of Harvey, a little browning, and a good tablespoonful of capers; stir the sauce over the fire until it begins to boil, then add about one ounce of butter, mix well to make it smooth, and the sauce will be ready to serve with fried or broiled fish.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Brown Caper Sauce
Four ounces of butter, one and a half ounces of flour; nutmeg, pepper and salt, well kneaded together in a small stewpan; then add a small piece of glaze and nearly half a pint of water; stir over the fire until the sauce begins to boil, then mix in a bit more fresh butter to smooth it; add the capers, and serve with boiled mutton.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's White Caper Sauce
Four ounces of fresh butter, one and a half ounces of flour; nutmeg, pepper and salt, eight gherkins and a few capers chopped fine, a little browning and two tablespoonfuls of Harvey; knead well together in a small stewpan, add half a pint of water, stir over the fire until the sauce begins to boil, and then, after mixing in a bit of glaze the size of a walnut, serve with boiled beef, or boiled mutton.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Sharp Sauce
Prepare some poivrade sauce, No. 19; to this add a glass of port wine, half that quantity of Harvey, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and two good tablespoonfuls of red currant jelly; boil together for five minutes, and pour into a clean small stewpan for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Reform Sauce
The same as the foregoing, excepting that French red wine should be used instead of port, and also that eight small gherkins, sliced as thin as wafers, be added to the sauce.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Chevreuil Sauce
Mix in a basin a gill of salad-oil, half a gill of vinegar, two ounces of brown sugar, the juice and rind of an orange shred very fine, and a tablespoonful of mustard.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Cold Brawn Sauce
Mix in a basin a gill of salad-oil, a wineglassful of vinegar, half a pound of bruised red currant jelly, two ounces of pounded white sugar, the juice of two oranges, and the rind of one shred very fine, a large stick of horse-radish grated, and a tablespoonful of French mustard. This sauce must be served cold; it is equally good with brawn.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's German Sauce for Boar's Head
Take about a gill of bechamel sauce, No. 16, in a small stewpan, make it hot, stir in two ounces of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of chopped blanched parsley, a little pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Maître d'Hôtel Sauce
Knead two ounces of fresh butter with one ounce of flour; nutmeg, pepper and salt, chopped parsley, and half a lemon juice; place this mixture in a small stewpan, with either a gill of milk or cream; stir over the fire until it is near coming to a boil; add a bit more butter to smooth it, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Economical Maître d'Hôtel Sauce
This is prepared in the first instance exactly in the same manner as the two foregoing maître d'hôtel sauces; the difference being that a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, ditto of chili vinegar, ditto of Harvey, and a teaspoonful of anchovy (being first boiled in a separate small stewpan for five minutes) must be stirred into the sauce.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Ravigotte Sauce
Chop two onions very fine, and fry them with a bit of butter the size of a large walnut, in a small stewpan, until they assume a light-brown colour; then add a wineglassful of vinegar and a good pinch of pepper, and boil these together for four minutes; next add a good tablespoonful of flour, or an ounce of thickening, No. 9, and half a pint of stock or water, and a bit of glaze; stir the sauce over the fire for twenty minutes, then add a tablespoonful of French mustard, one of Harvey, and a teaspoonful of anchovy; mix well together over the fire, and serve quite hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Robert Sauce
Put a gill of white sauce, No. 13, into a stewpan; add thereto a leason of three yolks of eggs and a little cream, pepper and salt, half the juice of a lemon, and stir it over the fire until the leason is set; then add some chopped parsley and a few turned mushrooms, and serve as directed.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Poulette Sauce
Take a round-bottomed basin, place therein three yolks of eggs, a little pepper and salt, and with a wooden spoon proceed to work therein by turning the spoon round quickly, about half a pint of salad-oil and half a gill of tarragon vinegar; these must be incorporated by degrees; and in order to produce the sauce in perfection, it must present the appearance of a firm creamy substance. This cold sauce is especially adapted for chicken and lobster salads.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Mayonaise Sauce
Prepare some mayonaise, No. 37, and mix there with a tablespoonful of French mustard, a little chopped spring-onions, and some chopped tarragon and chervil; and a teaspoonful of anchovy.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Tartar Sauce
Knead two ounces of fresh butter with one ounce of flour in a small stewpan; add a gill of water; season with a little pepper and salt, and stir over the fire until the sauce thickens, but do not allow it to boil; finish by working into it a bit more butter, and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Melted Butter or Butter Sauce
Split a lobster, remove the pith, coral, and spawn to be pounded with an equal proportion of butter in a mortar, and afterwards rubbed through a hair-sieve on a plate; break the shell, and having removed all the meat, cut it into large or small square pieces, according to fancy. Next, prepare some melted butter, No. 39, to this add the spawn and the lobster, season with the juice of half a lemon, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and a pinch of cayenne pepper, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Lobster Sauce
Prepare butter sauce, No. 39; to this add a teaspoonful of anchovy, a small pinch of cayenne, a little lemon juice, and a bit of lobster butter to colour and flavour it; lastly, throw in the pickled shrimps, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Shrimp Sauce
Put a quart of washed muscles into a stewpan with a gill of water and a teaspoonful of salt; over all spread a wet cloth or napkin, and having placed the lid on, set the muscles upon a brisk fire to scald; this will be effected in a few minutes, and may be ascertained by the separation of the shells—showing the plump white muscles; these should be instantly taken off the fire, their liquor strained into a basin, and the muscles removed from their shells upon a plate. Next, put some allemande, No. 17, into a stewpan; add a little anchovy, lemon juice, cayenne, and the liquor boiled down to the value of a tablespoonful; throw in the muscles, stir gently together, and serve hot.
Note.—When inconvenient to prepare allemande, melted butter may be substituted; in this case, three yolks of eggs, a little cream, and nutmeg, should be added.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Mussel Sauce
First, scald, and beard the oysters, and save their liquor; next, knead two ounces of butter with one ounce of flour in a stewpan; add the liquor, a gill of cream or milk, a little nutmeg, cayenne, anchovy, and lemon juice; stir over the fire until the sauce boils, then add the oysters, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's White Oyster Sauce
Prepare the oysters as in the foregoing receipt, boil down their liquor, add half a pint of brown sauce, No. 12; season with a little anchovy, cayenne, and lemon-juice, add the oysters; boil together for a few minutes, and serve hot.
Note.—When no brown sauce is ready, use melted butter instead, adding a little browning, No. 76.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Brown Oyster Sauce
Boil two or more eggs hard, which will require six minutes; remove the shells, cut each egg into eight pieces, and put these into some well-made melted butter, No. 39.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Egg Sauce
To a glass of port wine add the juice of half a lemon, three shalots sliced, a pinch of cayenne, a tablespoonful of Harvey; boil for five minutes, and strain into a sauce-boat.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Port-wine Sauce for Wild Fowl
Two tablespoonfuls of port wine, a small stick of cinnamon bruised, the rind of a lemon, half a pound of red-currant jelly; boil for five minutes, and strain into a sauceboat.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Venison Sauce
Chop fine and parboil for three minutes a handful of parsley, drain free from water, and add this to some melted butter or any other white sauce: work in a pat of butter to smooth the sauce, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Parsley Sauce
To some melted butter add a dessert-spoonful of anchovy, a pinch of cayenne, and lemon-juice.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Anchovy Sauce
Peal, core, and slice up six apples, and put them into a small stewpan with one ounce of sugar and the rind of half a lemon; add a small piece of butter and a gill of water; stew over a slow fire until the apples are dissolved, then rub through a sieve, and serve hot.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Apple Sauce
Boil half a pint of green gooseberries, drain off the water; rub them through a hair sieve, put this pulp into a stewpan with a wineglassful of green raw sorrel or spinach juice; add a small piece of butter, a pinch of sugar, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; make hot, and serve with boiled or grilled mackerel.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Green Gooseberry Sauce
This is prepared in same manner as parsley sauce, by using fennel instead of parsley, see No. 48.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Fennel Sauce
Add to some melted butter a teaspoonful of French or English mustard, a dessert-spoonful of chilli vinegar, and a little anchovy; make hot, and serve with broiled or fried herrings. The soft roes may be added.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Mustard Sauce
Pour four ounces of fresh butter into a stewpan on the fire, and keep stirring it until it becomes browned by frying; then add a small wineglassful of tarragon vinegar, ditto of Harvey, a tablespoonful of chopped capers, a little anchovy, and either a gill of brown sauce or gravy; boil this together for five minutes, and serve over boiled skate or grilled mackerel.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Brown Butter Sauce
Peel, slice, and boil six large onions for ten minutes; drain them free from water, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of flour and two ounces of butter; mix these well, and then add a pint of milk; season with nutmeg, pepper, and salt; stir over the fire for ten minutes; add a little cream, and serve hot over boiled rabbits, or with roast mutton, &c.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Onion Sauce
Chop fine two large onions, fry them in a stewpan with a bit of butter, of a light-brown colour; then add one ounce of flour, half a pint of stock, or water, a spoonful of brown colouring, pepper, and salt; stir over the fire for ten minutes, and serve hot, as will be hereafter indicated.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Bretonne Sauce
Procure green tarragon, chervil, chives, and parsley, in equal quantities; parboil these in water with a little salt until tender; then drain off all the water, squeeze them in a cloth, and pound them in a mortar with two ounces of fresh butter; and having rubbed this through a hair sieve, proceed to incorporate it into some well-made Bechamel sauce, No. 16, or some melted butter: just before using this sauce, add a very little tarragon vinegar and anchovy.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Green Ravigotte Sauce
Peel and slice thin eight large onions; and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; place the lid on, and set this to stew very slowly over a slack fire, until the onions are nearly dissolved: they must not be allowed to acquire any colour. Next, add four ounces of flour, two fresh-boiled mealy potatoes, and a pint of milk, or good stock (in the latter case half-a-pint of cream must be added); stir over the fire for a quarter of an hour, and then rub through a tammy or hair sieve; keep hot in a covered stewpan until used according to directions.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Soubise Sauce
Put the following ingredients into a small stewpan, viz.,—a grated stick of horse-radish, four shalots, a bay-leaf and thyme, three cloves, a bit of mace, twenty peppercorns, one ounce of lean ham shaved thin, a glass of port wine, ditto of Harvey, four ounces of red-currant jelly, a little stock, and half a pint of brown sauce; boil these together for a quarter of an hour, add a bit of glaze, strain into a small stew-pan, and serve the sauce according to directions.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Neapolitan Sauce
Put into a small stewpan twenty-four fried button onions, twelve mushrooms, twelve small truffles; add a glass of red wine and half a pint of brown sauce; boil together for five minutes, and serve according to directions.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Bourguignotte Sauce
Chop an onion fine, and fry it with a bit of butter or dripping, in a small stewpan; then add a wineglassful of vinegar, pepper, and salt, and a little stock or water; boil these together for five minutes. The addition of mushroom catsup or Harvey would be an improvement.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Poor-man's Sauce
Put a gill of any good white sauce into a small stewpan, add a lump of lobster-spawn butter, No. 35, a little anchovy, and chilli vinegar.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Cardinal Sauce
Peel, slice, and fry four onions, add a few roast game bones chopped fine, and an ounce of flour; mix well together, moisten with a glass of sherry, and half a pint of good stock, a little pepper and salt, a bit of glaze; stir over the fire for a quarter of an hour, then rub through a tammy or hair sieve, and keep hot in a small stewpan for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Richlieu Sauce
Peel and slice six shalots, and put them in a small stewpan with a wineglassful of vinegar, pepper, and salt, and boil this for six minutes; then add a gill of brown gravy, and boil again for other six minutes; strain through a sieve, and use this gravy for broiled cutlets and other broiled meats.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Shallot Gravy
Slice four truffles and put them into a small stewpan with a glass of sherry and half a pint of brown sauce, No. 12, and then boil the sauce for ten minutes.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Truffle Sauce
Put a dozen button mushrooms into a small stewpan with a glass of mushroom castup and half-a-pint of brown sauce, No. 12; boil for ten minutes.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Mushroom Sauce
Chop four truffles very fine, put them into a small stewpan with half a pint of brown sauce, a glass of madeira, and as much garlic as will rest on the point of a knife; boil for ten minutes; add a piece of glaze and a pat of anchovy butter, or a little essence.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Perigeux Sauce
Chop up small some trimmings of the roast game intended for the salmis, and put these into a small stewpan with a bay-leaf and thyme, and a tablespoonful of salad-oil; fry the whole of a light-brown colour, and then add a glass of white wine and half a pint of brown sauce; boil gently on the corner of the stove for ten minutes; remove the grease and scum, and strain into a small stewpan for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Salmis Sauce
Put into a small stew-pan the following ingredients; viz.,— a spoonful of chopped capers, ditto of chopped raw mushrooms, ditto of chopped shalots, ditto of salad-oil, a clove of garlic, three cloves, a bit of mace, a bay-leaf and thyme, and twenty peppercorns; fry this over the fire for five minutes, stirring it the whole time; then add four ripe tomatas, a glass of sherry, and a piece of glaze the size of a walnut; stir again on the fire until the tomatas are quite dissolved, and after having rubbed the sauce through a tammy or sieve, pour it into a stewpan to be made hot for use. Add a piece of glaze.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Provençale Sauce
Make about two ounces of fine bread crumbs, and put them in a small stewpan with a shalot, pepper, and salt, half a pint of milk or cream, and a small pat of butter; stir this over the fire to boil for five minutes; remove the shalot, and serve hot in a sauceboat.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Bread Sauce
Put—say four ounces of bread crumbs into a stewpan or a frying pan over the fire with a wooden spoon until they assume a light-brown colour; then throw them on a sheet of paper to absorb the grease, and keep them in reserve to be served as directed.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Fried Breadcrumbs
Wash thoroughly half a peck of spinach, and put it dripping wet into a mortar; pound it into a pulp, and then place the pulp and juice in a strong cloth; twist the sides thereof tightly over, and then let two persons take a hold of each end and wring the juice out from the pulp in the same manner as you would wring out a sheet or any large cloth after washing it: a dish must be placed under the cloth to receive the juice as it is wrung out. Next, pour the extract or spinach-juice into a small stewpan and set it over the fire; and, as soon as it curdles, scrape it out with a spoon upon a sieve in order to separate the water from the finished pulp; and a few minutes after it has drained, place it in a covered basin in a very cool place, to be used as hereafter indicated.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Spinach Greening
For half a pint of Tomata sauce, No 21, add a tablespoonful of diluted and strained curry-paste, a bit of glaze, and a little anchovy; boil together and serve.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Indian Sauce
First chop very fine the following ingredients: viz, —a dozen mushrooms, four shalots, and a little parsley; put these into a small stewpan with a bit of butter, stir over the fire for five minutes, then add a gill of gravy), the juice of half a lemon, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and a pinch of sugar; boil for a few minutes, and serve as directed.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Fine-herbs Sauce
Chop fine the following ingredients in equal proportions, according to the quality of sauce required for present use: viz.—mushrooms, truffles, ham, parsley, and shalots; put these into a small stewpan with an ounce of scraped fat bacon, and stir the whole over the fire for six minutes; then add about half a pint of sauce, the juice of half a lemon, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, a good pinch of sugar, and four yolks of eggs; stir again over the fire to set the eggs, and use the D'Uxelles as herein directed.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's D'Uxelles Sauce
Put two ounces of common sugar in a stewpan with a spoonful of water, and set it to boil on the fire; as soon as the sugar begins to gain any colour, slacken the heat, and continue stirring with a wooden spoon so that it may bake slowly, and become nearly black by degrees without being calcined or burnt; when sufficiently baked, add a pint of water, boil and skim it for five minutes, and when cold, bottle it off for use as occasion requires.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Brown Colouring
Half a pint of poivrade, No. 19, four truffles chopped fine, two ounces of red-currant jelly, and a glass of red wine: boil together for five minutes.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Chateaubriand Sauce
Scrape clean and grate a stick of horse-radish, and put it into a basin; add thereto a gill of cream, a dessert-spoonful of made mustard, the same of pounded sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, a little pepper, and rather better than a tablespoonful of vinegar; mix well together and serve in a cold sauceboat, with roast beef.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Horseradish Sauce
Four yolks of raw eggs, two ounces of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, a very small quantity of nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and a teaspoonful of elder vinegar:— having put the foregoing ingredients into a small stewpan, place it with another stewpan of rather larger size, containing half a pint of hot water, and then, after placing the sauce in this bath over the fire, proceed to work it swiftly, either with a wire whisk or small wooden spoon, until it begins to thicken and present a rich, smooth, creamy appearance. Great care must be taken to prevent this sauce from curdling and becoming decomposed, which may be prevented by not stirring it over too fierce a fire. If, however, this accident should occur, by adding either two more yolks, or a spoonful of white sauce, it will be remedied.
Note.—Dutch sauce may also be flavoured with either of the following vinegars:—tarragon, chilli, shalot, ravigotte, anchovy, or fine herbs. These vinegars are to be obtained in perfection only at Crosse and Blackwell's, Soho-square.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Dutch Sauce
To a pint of good stock made from veal and poultry, add a small bunch of tarragon, the white of an egg whipped with a very little water, and a tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar; continue whisking this over the fire until it boils, then remove it to the side, there to remain boiling until the egg is thoroughly set hard, and the aspic is perfectly bright; then strain it through a napkin into a stewpan, and boil it down to the consistency of half glaze. This sauce or essence is used for quenelles, and boiled fowls or chickens.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Clear Tarragon Sauce
First, prepare the following ingredients, viz.: four hard yolks of eggs, four anchovies washed and wiped, a handful of tarragon, chervil, burnet, chives; these to be well parboiled, and afterwards pressed in a cloth to extract all the water: a tablespoonful of capers, the same of French mustard, and three raw yolks of eggs; place all these in a mortar, bruise them together with a pestle, and then proceed to work in nearly half a pint of salad-oil, and half a gill of tarragon vinegar by degrees. When this is done, rub the sauce thus produced through a hair sieve or tammy.
Note.—This sauce is used for broiled fish or meats à la Tartare; also for all kinds of salads of fish, poultry, or game.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's The Prince of Wales' Sauce
Take mayonaise sauce, No. 37, add four large truffles shred fine, and as much garlic or shalot as will rest on the point of a knife, the whites of three hard eggs shred also, and three yolks of hard eggs rubbed through a wire sieve; mix, and serve this with any kind of salad.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Cazanova Sauce
To a tablespoonful of Oude sauce, add a glassful of Harvey, six shalots sliced, a gill of brown gravy, and a tablespoonful of vinegar; boil together for five minutes, and strain it into a small stewpan.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Devil's Sauce
Shred fine two ounces of lean boiled ham, and put this into a small stewpan with three shalots, chopped, or a little quantity of chopped chives when in season, and a bit of butter; fry these over the fire without bruising the ham for four minutes; then add a gill of brown sauce, the juice of half a lemon, a little pepper, and some chopped parsley; boil the sauce for five minutes, and serve it with veal cutlets or any broiled meats.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Ham Sauce
Peel and slice six large onions, put them into a covered stewpan, with two ounces of butter, over a slow fire to stew, without acquiring any colour; then add three apples sliced, without peeling them; and having replaced the whole on the fire again, as soon as these are also dissolved, add a good tablespoonful of Captain White's curry paste; moisten with a point of good gravy, and having stirred the sauce over the fire for twenty minutes, rub it through a hair sieve or tammy, and put it into a small stewpan, to be used as will be hereafter indicated.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Curry Sauce
Put half a pint of brown sauce, No. 12, into a small stewpan, add a gill of French red wine, eighteen button mushrooms, and the same number of fried button onions; boil together for ten minutes, season with a little nutmeg, pepper, and a pinch of sugar, work in a pat of butter, a little anchovy, and serve according to directions.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Brown Matelotte Sauce
Scald, beard, and drain two dozen oysters, and put their liquor in a stewpan with a glassful of French white wine, some mushroom juice, and half a pint of white sauce of any kind; stir this over the fire to reduce by boiling for a quarter of an hour, and then add three yolks and half a gill of cream, a little anchovy, a pinch of sugar, the juice of half a lemon; stir again over the fire to set the leason, and strain the sauce into a small stewpan containing the oysters, and a little number of button mushrooms. This sauce is intended specially for what is termed Matelotte Normande; but it is also well adapted for many other kinds of dressed fish.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's White Matelotte Sauce
Put into a small stewpan half a pint of Allemande, No. 17, half a gill of Tamata, No. 21, add a teaspoonful of chilli vinegar, a tablespoonful of Harvey, a teaspoonful of anchovy, and a good pat of butter; stir over a fire until hot, and serve with fillets of fish of all kinds.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Aurora Sauce
Take an ounce of each of the following ingredients, viz.: raw ham, red part of a carrot, celery-root, parsley-roots, shalots, of raw game four ounces, one clove of garlic, twenty peppercorns, four cloves, a bit of mace;— the ham, &c., must be cut up into very small pieces,—put the whole of the before-mentioned ingredients into a stewpan with two tablespoonsful of salad-oil, a bay-leaf, and some thyme, and fry them brown; then add a gill of madeira or sherry, half a pint of Tomata pulp, half a pint of good stock, and four ounces of glaze; stir the Stragotto over the fire for twenty minutes, rub it through a sieve or tammy, and keep it in gallipots covered over with lard in a cool place, to be used as occasion requires, for Italian dishes only.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Stragotto Sauce
Peel and cut into thick shreds two Portugal onions, and fry them in a stewpan with a spoonful of oil, pepper, and salt, of a light-brown colour; they must be occasionally stirred with a fork in order not to bruise them, and when fried, add a gill of Tamata, No. 21, a piece of glaze, and the juice of half a lemon; boil gently for five minutes.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Lyonnaise Sauce
Thoroughly cleanse four heads of white celery and slice them very thin; put this into a stewpan with nutmeg, pepper, and salt, and four ounces of butter and an onion sliced; put the lid on the stewpan and set it over a slow fire to stew very gently until the celery is dissolved, without acquiring and colour. Then add four ounces of flour and a pint of milk; stir again over the fire until the sauce has boiled twenty minutes, and then, having rubbed it through a sieve or tammy, put it into a small stewpan; to be used for boiled poultry or game.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Celery Sauce
Put the following ingredients into a small stewpan, viz. : a stick of horseradish scraped, four sliced shallots, a bay-leaf and thyme, a little raw ham chopped, nutmeg, pepper, and salt, a dessert-spoonful of sugar, a small glass of vinegar, a like quantity of wine, and an ounce of butter; put the lid on, and set this to simmer over a very slow heat for about twenty minutes, in order thoroughly to extract the flavour. Next, add rather better than a gill of white sauce, four yolks of eggs, and a gill of cream; stir this over the fire until it begins to boil, and then strain it through a tammy into a stewpan for use.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Russian Sauce
Scald one ounce of Jordan almonds and six bitter almonds; and, having freed them from their hulls or skins, put them in a mortar with four ounces of sugar and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water: bruise them into a pulp, and then remove this into a small stewpan; add a gill of cream and two yolks of raw eggs, and with a wire whisk whip the sauce over a very slow heat until it becomes a substantial smooth froth. This sauce is for puddings.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Almond Cream Sauce
Remove the stones from a pint of Orleans plums, and put these into a stewpan with a gill of water, and four ounces of sugar; stir them over a sharp fire until the plums are dissolved, and then rub the sauce through a sieve or tammy, to be afterwards used to pour over steamed sweet puddings.
Note.—Similar kinds of pudding sauce may be prepared in the same manner, by using for such purposes either peaches, or nectarines, apricots, damsons, &c.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Plum Sauce
Pick the stalks from a pound of Kentish cherries, and bruise them in a mortar so as to crack the stones; remove this pulp into a sugar-boiler; add a handful of picked red currants, and six ounces of sugar; boil the whole over the fire for about ten minutes (stirring with a wooden spoon), and then rub the sauce through a sieve; afterwards to be used for puddings.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Cherry Sauce
This is prepared by placing raspberries and red currants—say four ounces of each—in a sugar-boiler with a wineglassful of water and four ounces of sugar, then proceed as indicated for cherry sauce.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Raspberry Sauce
To a tablespoonful of arrowroot add twice that quantity of sugar, a glass of wine, the juice of half a lemon, and nearly half a pint of milk or water; stir this quickly over the fire until it boils.
Note.—This sauce may also be prepared in an almost infinite variety of ways, by using instead of wine, milk or water as a liquid to mix with the arrowroot, the juices extracted from almost all kinds of fruits as well as all kinds of liqueurs; and they may also be flavoured with vanilla, lemon, orange, &c.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Arrowroot Sauce
To a gill of melted butter, add a glass of wine, rum, or brandy, a little grated lemon or orange-peel, and a spoonful of sugar.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Wine Sauce for Puddings
Put four yolks of eggs into a small deep stewpan; add two ounces of sifted sugar, a glass of sherry, a little lemon-juice and grated peel, and a grain of salt; whisk the sauce over a moderate heat, taking care to set the stewpan which contains the whip sauce in another of somewhat larger size already containing a little hot water,—say an inch—and as soon as it presents the appearance of a well-set creamy froth, pour it over a plum pudding, or any other kind of steamed pudding, such as cabinet, soufflé, semolina &c.
Note.—This sauce may also be flavoured with all kinds of liqueurs, essences, and syrups of various kinds of fruits. When an essence, or merely orange or lemon sugar, it used for the purpose of flavouring, instead of wine or any other liquid, a glass of milk must be added, to compensate for its absence.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Whip Sauce
Rub the rind of two oranges all over several lumps of sugar, and then scrape it off and put it into a small stewpan with the juice and pulp of four oranges—previously rubbed through a very clean sieve; to this add a spoonful of arrowroot or potato four, two ounces of sugar, and a liqueur-glassful of curaçoa; stir over the fire until the sauce thickens, and then pour it over the pudding.
Here you will find the modern redaction for Francatelli's Orange Sauce