To hash a calf's head is a traditional British recipe, based on Hannah Glasse's recipe of 1747, for a classic dish of a boiled calf's head (or substitute a breast of veal) where the meat is hashed in gravy with asparagus tips thickened with bread and egg yolks where the brains are made into meatballs to be served with the dish. The full recipe is presented here and I hope you enjoy this classic British version of: To hash a calf's head.
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To haſh a calf's head.
BOIL the head almoſt enough, then take the beſt half and with a ſharp knife take it nicely from the bone, with the two eyes. Lay it in a little deep diſh before a good fire, and take great care no aſhes fall into it, and then hack it with a knife croſs and croſs : grate ſme nutmeg all over, a very little pepper and ſalt, a few ſweet herbs, ſome crumbs of bread, and a little lemon-peel chopped fine, baſte it with a little butter, then baſte it again, and pour over it the yolks of two eggs ; keep the diſh turning that it may be all brown alike : cut the other half and tongue into little thin bits, and ſet on a pint of drawn gravy in a ſauce-pan, a little bundle of ſweet-herbs, an onion, a little pepper and ſalt, a glaſs of red wine, and two ſhalots ; boil all theſe together, a few minutes, then ſtrain it through a ſieve, and put it into a clean ſtew-pan with the haſh. Flour the meat before you put it in, and put in a few muſhrooms, a ſpoonful of the pickle, two ſpoonfuls of catchup, and a few truffles and morels ; ſtir all theſe together for a few minutes, then beat up half the brains, and ſtir into the ſtew-pan, and a little piece of butter rolled in flour. Take the other half of the brains and beat them up with a little lemon-peel cut fine, a little nutmeg grated, a little beaten mace, a litlte thyme ſhred ſmall, a little parſley, the yolk of an egg, and have ſome good dripping boiling in a ſtew-pan ; then fry the brains in little cakes, about as big as a crown-piece. Fry about twenty oyſters dipped in the yolk of an egg, toaſt ſome ſlices of bacon, fry a few force-meat balls, and have ready a hot diſh ; if pewter, over a few clear coals ; if china, over a pan of hot water. Pour in your haſh, then lay in your toaſted head, throw the forcemeat-balls over the haſh, and garniſh the diſh with fried oyſters, the fried brains and lemon ; throw the reſt over the haſh, lay the bacon round the diſh, and ſend it to table.
Modern Redaction
Ingredients
1 calf's head, hair removed (or substitute a breast of veal)
freshly-grated nutmeg, to taste
salt and freshly-ground black pepper, to taste
6 tbsp sweet herbs
200g breadcrumbs
4 tbsp finely-grated lemon zest
60g butter, melted
2 egg yolks
600ml drawn gravy
1 bunch of sweet herbs, securely tied
1 onion
90ml red wine
2 shallots
flour for dusting
8 preserved button mushrooms
1 tbsp mushroom pickle
30g wild mushrooms, chopped
2 tbsp ketchup
calf's brains (or 300g sausage meat)
1 tbsp butter mixed to a paste with 1 tsp plain flour
2 tbsp lemon zest
1/4 tsp ground mace
2 tsp thyme leaves, chopped
3 tbsp parsley, chopped
1 egg yolk
20 oysters
2 eggs, beaten
6 rashers of bacon, grilled until crisp
Method:
Bring a pan of water to a boil and add the calf's head or breast of veal. If using a head, simmer for about 2 hours, or until just tender. If using the breast, simmer for 1 hour.
Take the head and remove the eyes. Now take a sharp knife and remove the skin and meat from one half of the heat in a single piece (if using belly, cut off a piece that's a little more than half its size).
Use a sharp knife to cut a criss-cross pattern in the flesh side of the meat then season with nutmeg, salt and black pepper. Beat the egg yolks in a bowl, use to brush the meat then mix the herbs and breadcrumbs and use to coat the flesh. Brush with a little melted butter then place on a rack in a roasting tin, set in an oven pre-heated to 200°C and roast for about 30 minutes, or until nicely golden brown.
If using head, remove the tongue and the remaining meat and flesh. Cut these into small pieces and set aside (if using belly, cut the remaining belly piece into small pieces). Pour the gravy into a pan then add the herbs and onion. Season with salt and black pepper then add the red wine and shallots. Bring the mixture to a boil then strain the liquid through a sieve.
Return the strained liquid to the pan then flour the meat pieces and add these to the stock. Stir in the pickled mushrooms (and their pickle), the ketchup and fresh mushrooms. Stir to combine and bring to a simmer.
Extract the calf brains (or use sausage meat). Divide into two pieces. Beat one half up and mix this into the stock then whisk in the flour and butter roux, a small piece at a time. Take the remaining brains (or sausage meat) and beat in a bowl then work in the lemon zest, nutmeg, mace, thyme, parsley and egg yolk. Add oil to a pan, then shape the brain (or sausage meat) mixture into little cakes (about 2cm in diameter). Fry these in the oil until cooked through and golden brown all over. When done, remove and set aside to keep warm.
Dip the oysters in the beaten egg then fry these in the same frying pan (add more oil if needed) for about 2 minutes per side.
To serve, pour the chopped meat hash into a serving dish and lay the baked meat over the top. Garnish with the fried forcemeat and the fried oysters. Lay the crispy bacon around the dish and serve immediately.
