To hash a calf's head white is a traditional British recipe, based on Hannah Glasse's recipe of 1747, for a classic dish of a boiled calf's head (or substitute a breast of veal) where the meat is hashed in white gravy with asparagus tips thickened with bread and egg yolks where the brains are made into meatballs to be served with the dish with the whole being whitened with cream. The full recipe is presented here and I hope you enjoy this classic British version of: To hash a calf's head white.
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To haſh a calf's head white.
TAKE half a pint of gravy, a large wine-glaſs of white wine, a little beaten mace, a little nutmeg, and a little ſalt ; throw into your haſh a few muſhrooms, a few truffles and morels firſt parboiled, a few aritchoke bottoms, and aſparagus-tops, if you have them, a god piece of butter rolled in flour, the yolks of two eggs, half a pint of cream, and one ſpoonful of muſhroom catchup ; ſtir it all together very carefully till it is of a fine thickneſs ; then pour it into a diſh, and lay the other half of the head as before-mentioned, in the middle, and garniſh it as before directed, with fried oyſters, brains, lemon, and force-meat balls fried.
Modern Redaction
Ingredients
1 calf's head, hair removed (or substitute a breast of veal)
freshly-grated nutmeg, to taste
salt and freshly-ground black pepper, to taste
6 tbsp sweet herbs
200g breadcrumbs
4 tbsp finely-grated lemon zest
60g butter, melted
2 egg yolks
300ml white gravy (or any strong white stock)
150ml white wine
1/4 tsp ground mace
freshly-grated nutmeg, to taste
6 button mushrooms, sliced
50g wild mushrooms, sliced
6 artichoke bottoms, chopped
12 asparagus tips
2 tbsp butter mixed to a roux with 2 tsp plain flour
2 egg yolks
300ml cream
1 tbsp mushroom ketchup
calf's brains (or 300g sausage meat)
1 tbsp butter mixed to a paste with 1 tsp plain flour
2 tbsp lemon zest
1/4 tsp ground mace
2 tsp thyme leaves, chopped
3 tbsp parsley, chopped
1 egg yolk
20 oysters
2 eggs, beaten
6 rashers of bacon, grilled until crisp
Method:
Bring a pan of water to a boil and add the calf's head or calf belly. If using a head, simmer for about 2 hours, or until just tender. If using the belly, simmer for 1 hour.
Take the head and remove the eyes. Now take a sharp knife and remove the skin and meat from one half of the heat in a single piece (if using belly, cut off a piece that's a little more than half its size).
Use a sharp knife to cut a criss-cross pattern in the flesh side of the meat then season with nutmeg, salt and black pepper. Beat the egg yolks in a bowl, use to brush the meat then mix the herbs and breadcrumbs and use to coat the flesh. Brush with a little melted butter then place on a rack in a roasting tin, set in an oven pre-heated to 200°C and roast for about 30 minutes, or until nicely golden brown.
If using head, remove the tongue and the remaining meat and flesh. Cut these into small pieces and set aside (if using belly, cut the remaining belly piece into small pieces). Combine the gravy, white wine, mace, nutmeg and salt in a pan. Add the chopped meat along with the mushrooms, artichoke bottoms and asparagus tops. Bring to a simmer then work in the flour and butter roux, a small piece at a time.
When heated through add the mushroom ketchup. Whisk together the egg yolks and cream in a bowl. Add two ladlefuls of the stock to temper then pour the cream mix back into the hash. Stir to combine then heat gently (do not boil) until warmed through.
Extract the calf brains (or use sausage meat). Divide into two pieces. Beat one half up and mix this into the stock then whisk in the flour and butter roux, a small piece at a time. Take the remaining brains (or sausage meat) and beat in a bowl then work in the lemon zest, nutmeg, mace, thyme, parsley and egg yolk. Add oil to a pan, then shape the brain (or sausage meat) mixture into little cakes (about 2cm in diameter). Fry these in the oil until cooked through and golden brown all over. When done, remove and set aside to keep warm.
Dip the oysters in the beaten egg then fry these in the same frying pan (add more oil if needed) for about 2 minutes per side.
To serve, pour the white hash into a serving dish and lay the baked meat over the top. Garnish with the fried forcemeat and the fried oysters. Lay the crispy bacon around the dish and serve immediately.
