Celtnet 'Proper New Book of Cookery' Part 1, Intro, Meat Seasons, Courses

Brawn is best from a fortnight before Michaelmas* until lent : Beef and Bacon is good all times in the year. Mutton is good at all times, but from Easter to Midsummer it is worst. A fat pig is ever in season. A goose is worst in Midsummer month**, and best in stubble time***, but when they are young green geese, then they are best. Veal is best in January, and February, and all other times good. LAmb and young kid [goat] is best between Christmas and lent, and good from Easter to Whitsuntide. Kid is always good. Hens are good at all times, but best from November to lent, fat Capons are always in season. Peacocks are always good, but when they are young and of good stature, they are as good as pheasants, and so are young grouse. Cygnets are best between all Hallow's day and Lent. A Malard is good after a frost****, until candlemas*****, so is a Teal and other wild fowl that swim. A woodcock is best from October to Lent : and so are all other birds, such as Blackbirds and Thrushes, Robins and such other. Herons, Curlews, Cranes, Bitterns, Bustards are at all times good, but best in winter. Pheasants, Partridges and Landrail, are always good but best when they are taken with a hawk. Quail and Larks are always in season. Conies****** are always good, and so is a doe*******. A hare is always god, but best from October to Lent. A gelded deer whether he be fallow or red is always in season. A pollard******** is especially good in may, at Midsummer he is a Buck*********, and is very good until Holyrood day********** before Michaelmas, so likewise is a stag, but he is at his best in May. A barren doe is best in winter. A Pricket† and a sorrel sister‡ is always in season. Chickens are always good, and so are Pigeons if they are young.

 Here after foloweth the oꝛder of meates, howe they muſte be ſerued at the Table, with their ſauces foꝛ fleſhe dayes at dynner.

 The fyꝛſte courſe,
    Potage oꝛ ſtewed bꝛoath,
Bo[y]lde meate oꝛ ſtewed meate
Chekins and Bacon
Powdꝛed beyfe
Pyes
Gooſe
Pygge
Rooſted beyfe
Roosted veale
Cuſtarde

 The ſeconde courſe
    Rooſted Lambe
Rooſted Capons
Roosted Connies
Chekins
Pehennes
Baken veneſon
Tarte.

The fyꝛſte ſeruice at ſupper.
    Potage oꝛ ſewe
A ſallette
A pygges petytoe
Poudꝛed beyfe ſlyced
A Shoulder of Mutton oꝛ a Bꝛeſt
Veale
Lambe
Cuſtarde.

The ſeconde coorſe.
Capons rooſted
Connies rooſted
Chekins rooſted
Pigerons rooſted
Larckes rooſted
A pye of pygeons oꝛ Chekins
Baken veniſon.
Tarte

Here after follows the order of meats, how they must be served at the Table with their sauces for flesh days at dinner.

The first course,
    Pottage or stewed broth
Boiled meat or stewed meat
Chickens and Bacon
Salted beef
Pies
Goose
Pig
Roast beef
Roast veal
Custard

The first service at supper.
    Pottage or sewe*
A salad
A pig's pettitoes**
Salted beef, sliced
A Shoulder of Mutton or a Breast
Veal
Lamb
Custard

The second course.
Capons, roasted
Conies roasted
Chickens roasted
Larks roasted
A pie of pigeons or Chickens
Baked venison
Tart

 The ſeruyce at dyner.
Bꝛawne and muſtarde
Capons ſtewed oꝛ in whyte bꝛoath
A peſtle of veneſon vpon a bꝛowes.
A chyne of beyfe, and a bꝛeſte of mutton boylde.
Chuettes of pyes of fyne mutton
Thꝛe grene geſe in a dyſhe, ſoꝛel ſauce, foꝛ a ſtubble goſe, muſtarde, and vineger.
After all halowen daye, a ſwan.
Sauce chadel.
A pygge.
A dubble rybbe of beyf rooſted, ſauce, pepper and vyneger.
A loyne of veale oꝛ a bꝛeſt         Sauce
Halfe a lambe oꝛ a kyd            oꝛenges
Two capons rooſted,     Sauce wyne and ſalte, ale and ſalt, except it be vpon ſoppes.
Two paſties of falow dere in a dyſhe.
A cuſtarde
A dyſhe of Leches.

 The ſeconde courſe. Jellye,
Peacocke     Sauce, wyne, and ſalte.
Two connies oꝛ halfe a doſyn rabets
Sauce muſtarde and ſuger.
Halfe a doſyn chekyns vpon ſoꝛell ſoppes.
Halfe a doſyn pigeons
Mallarde
Teyle           (Sauce, muſtarde
Gulles          (and verges.
Stoꝛke          (
Heronſhewe
Crane           (
Curlew          (Sauce galentyne.
Bitture          (
Buſtarde
Feſande     Sauce water and salt with onyons ſlyced
Halfe a doſen woodcockes
Sauce muſtarde and ſuger.
Halfe a doſen partriches
Halfe a doſen tayles.
Sauced as the feſants.
A doſen of Quayles
A dyſhe of Larkes
Two paſties of redde deare in a dyſhe
Tarte
Genſbꝛead
Fritteris.

The service at dinner.
Brawn and mustard
Capons stewed or in white broth
A leg of venison in broth
A chine of beef, and a breast of mutton boiled.
Small pies of fine mutton
Three green geese in a dish, sorrel sauce, for as stubble goose* [a sauce with] mustard, and vinegar
After All Hallows Day, a swan [with] Chaudel sauce**
A pig.
A double rib of beef roasted [with] a vinegar an pepper sauce
A loin of veal or a breast     (Orange
Half a lamb or a kid              (Sauce
Two capons roasted,    Wine sauce and salt
ale and salt [to season] unless it be served upon sops.
Two pasties of fallow deer in a dish.
A custard
A dish of leches***

The second course. Jelly.
Peacock.     Salt and wine sauce.
Two conies or half a dozen rabbits
Mustard and sugar sauce.
Half a dozen chickens upon sorrel sops.
Half a dozen pigeons
Mallard
Teal          (Mustard and Verjuice
Gulls        (sauce
Storks       (
Heron
Crane        (
Curlew      (Galentine sauce[****]
Bittern      (
Bustard
Pheasnat    Sauce of water and salt with sliced onions
Half a dozen woodcocks [with] Mustard and sugar sauce
Half a dozen partridges
Half a dozen teals, sauced as for the pheasants
A dozen Quails
A dish of Larks
Two pasties of red deer in a dish
Tart
Gingerbread
Fritters

Seruice foꝛ fyſhe dayes:
    Butter
A ſallet with harde Egges.
Potage of Sande Eles and Lamperns
Reade hearynge , grene bꝛoyled ſtrawed vpon.
Whyte herynge       (
Lynge                  (Muſtarde.
Haburdyn             (
Salte Samon minced
Sauce, Muſtarde and Vergis and a lyttle Suger.
Powdꝛed Conger     (
Shadde                 (Sauce, vineger.
Makrell.                (
Whytinge     Sauce, wyth the lyuer and muſtarde.
Plyace,   Sauce, ſoꝛel, oꝛ wyne and ſalte oꝛ muſtarde oꝛ vergys.
Thoꝛnebacke   Sauce, lyuer and muſtard, peper, and ſalte ſtrawed vpon after it is bꝛuſed.
Freſhe codde.   Sauce, grene ſauce.
Baſe
Mullette
Eles vpon ſoppes
Roche vpon ſoppes
Perche
Pyke in pyke ſauce.
Troute vpon ſoppes
Tenche in gelly oꝛ in greſſell
Cuſtarde.

The ſeconde courſe Flownders oꝛ floex in pyke ſauce
Freſhe Salmon
Freſhe Conger     (
Bꝛette               (Sauce, vineger.
Turbutte           (
Holybutte.
Bꝛeme vpon ſoppes
Carpe vpon ſoppes
Soles oꝛ any other fyſhes fryed
Rooſted Eles     Sauce, the dꝛyp=
Rooſted Lamperns           pynge.
Rooſted purpos     Sauce, galentine
Freſhe Sturgeon
Creues             (
Crabbe             (Sauce, vineger.
Shrimpes          (
Baken Lampꝛey.
Tarte        Cheſe
Fygges       Rayſyns
Apples       Peares
Almondes blanched.

Service for fish days:
    Butter
A salad with hard Eggs.
Pottage of Sand Eels and Lampreys
Smoked herring, garnished with fried parsley
Fresh herring        (
Ling                        (Mustard
Spotted Cod          (
Salted salmon, minced [with] lightly-sugared Mustard and Verjuice sauce
Salted Conger      (
Shad                      (Vinegar sauce
Mackerel              (
Whiting    Liver and mustard Sauce
Place,    [with] Sorrel sauce or wine and salt [sauce] or mustard [sauce] or Verjuice
Thornback [ray]    [with] liver, mustard and pepper sauce and [with] salt strewed upon it after it is bruised.
Fresh cod.    [with] green sauce
Bass
Mullet
Eels upon sops
Roach upon sops
Perch
Pike in pike sauce.
Trout upon sops
Tench in jelly or soup
Custard.

The second course Flounders or floex[*] in pike sauce
Fresh Salmon
Fresh Conger      (
Brette[**]            (Vinegar Sauce
Turbot                  (
Halibut
Bream upon sops
Carp upon sops
Soles or any other fishes fried
Roasted Eels      [with] Sauce of the drip=
Roasted Lampreys                            pings
Roast portopise    [with] Galentine sauce
Fresh sturgeon
Crayfish                (
Crab                       (Vinegar sauce
Shrimps                 (
Baked Lambprey
Tart      Cheese
Figs      Raisins
Apples      Pears
Blanched Almonds

To dꝛeſſe a crabe. Fyrſte take awaye all the legges, and the heades, and then take all the fyſh out of the ſhelle, and make the ſhell as cleane as ye canne, and putte the meate into a dyſche, and butter it vppon a chafyng=dyſche of coles, and putte therto ſynamon and ſuger and a lytle vyneger, and when ye haue chafed it and ſeaſoned it, then putte the meate in the ſhelle agayne, and bꝛuſe the heades, and ſet them upon the dyſche ſyde and ſerue it.

To dress a crab. First take away all the legs, and the heads[*], and then take all the fish out of the shell, and make the shell as clean as you can, and put the meat into a dish, and add butter. Place it upon a chafing-dish of coals and put thereto cinnamon and sugar and a little vinegar, and when you have warmed warmed it and seasoned it, then put the meat back in the shell, and bruise the heads, and set them upon the dish. Send [it to table] and serve it.

 To make a ſtewed bꝛoath foꝛ Capons, mutton, beyfe oꝛ any other hoate meate, and alſo a bꝛoathe foꝛ al maner of freſhe fyſhe. TAke halfe a handefull of roſemary, and as muche of tyme, and bynde it on a bundel wyth thꝛede after it is waſhen, and put it in the potte, after that the potte is cleane ſkummed, and lette it boyle a whyle, then cutte ſoppes of white bꝛeade, and put them in a great charger, and put it on the ſame ſkaldynge bꝛoath, and whan it is ſoken ynoughe, ſtrayne it thꝛoughe a ſtrayner wyth a quantitye of wyne oꝛ good ale, ſo that it be not tarte and when it is ſtrayned pouꝛe it in a pot and than putte in youre rayſons and pꝛunes, and ſo lette them boyle tyll the meate be ynoughe. Yf the bꝛoathe be to ſwete, putte in the moꝛe wyne, oꝛ els a lyttle vyneger.

To make a stewed broth for Capons, mutton, beef of any other hot meat, and also a broth for all manner of fresh fish. Take half a handful of rosemary, and as much of thyme, and bind it into a bundle with thread after it is washed, and put it in the pot [with your stock]. [Bring to a simmer] and after skimming of the scum, let it boil for a while. Then cut up sops of white bread and put them in a large dish and pour over the same hot broth over them. When it [the bread] has soaked sufficiently strain it through a strainer with a quantity of wine or good ale, so that it it is not [too] tart. And when it is strained pour it in a pot and then put in your raisins and prunes and so let them boil until the meat until the meat [is done] sufficiently. If the broth is too sweet, put in more wine or else a little vinegar.

 To make Pyes.     Pyes of mutton oꝛ beif muſt be fyne mynced and ceaſoned wyth pepper and ſalte, and a lyttle ſaffron to coloure it, ſuet or marrow a good quantite, a lyttle vyneger, pꝛumes, greate rayſins, and dates, take the fatteſt of the bꝛoathe of powdꝛed beyfe, and yf you wyll haue paeſt royall, take butter and yolkes of egges, and to tempꝛe the flowꝛe to make the paeſte.

To make Pies. Pies of mutton or beef must be finely minced and seasoned with pepper and salt, and a little saffron to colour it. [Also add] a good quantity of suet or marrow, a little vinegar, prunes, large raisins, and dates, take the best of the broth of salt beef, and if you would have paste royal, take butter and egg yolks and temper the flour [with this broth] to make the pastry

 To bake Veneſon.     Take nothynge but pepper and ſalte, but lette it haue ynoughe, and yf the Veneſon be leane, larde it thꝛoughe wyth bacon.

To bake Venison. Take nothing but pepper and salt, but season it sufficiently, and if the Venison is lean, lard it through with bacon.

To rooſte Veneſon.     Rooſted Veneſon muſte haue vyneger, Suger, and Cinomome, and butter boyled vpon a chafing dyſhe with cooles, but the ſauce maye not bee to tarte, and then laye the Veneſon vpon the sauce.

To roast Venison. Roast Venison must have [a sauce of] vinegar, Sugar, and Cinnamon, and butter boiled upon a chafing dish with coals, but the sauce must not be too tart. Then lay the Venison upon the sauce.

Chekins vpon ſoppes.     Take ſoꝛel ſauce a good quantite, and put in cinomome and Suger, and let it boyle, and powꝛe it vpon the ſoppes, and then laye on the chekins.

Chickens upon sops. Take a generous quantity of sorrel sauce, and put in cinnamon and Sugar and let it boil, and pour it upon the sops, and then la on the chickens.

     A Pyke ſauce foꝛ a Pyke, Bꝛeme, Perche, Roche, Carpe, Eles, Floykes, and al maner of bꝛouke fyſhe.
   Take a poſye of Roſemary and time, and bynde then together, and put in alſo a quantitye of perſelye not bounde, and put into the caudꝛon of water, ſalte and yeſte, and the herbes, and lette them boyle a pꝛetye whyle, then putte in the fyſche, and a good quantitye of butter, and let them boyle a good ſeaſon, and you ſhall haue good Pyke ſauce.
    Foꝛ all theſe fyſches aboue wꝛytten, yf they muſte bee bꝛoyled, take ſauce foꝛ them, butter, pepper, and vyneger, and boyle it vpon a chafyngdyſhe , and then laye the bꝛoyled fyſche vppon the dyſche, but foꝛ Eeles and freſhe Salmon nothing but Pepper and vyneger ouer boyled. And alſo yf you wyll frye them, you muſte take a good quantitie of perſely, after the fyſhe is fryed, put in the perſely into the fryinge panne, and let it frye in the butter, and take it vp and put it on the fryed fyſhe, and frye place, whyttinge and ſuche other fyſhe, excepte Eles, freſhe Salmon, Conger, whiche be neuer fryed but baken, boyled, rooſted, oꝛ ſodden.

    A Pike sauce for a Pike, Bream, Perch, Roach, Carp, Eels, Flounders, and all manner of edible fish.
Take a posy of Rosemary and thyme, and bind them together, and a quantity of parsley (not bound). Add to a cauldron of water salt, yeast and the herbs and let them boil for a good period of time. Now add in the fish, and a generous quantity of butter, and let them boil a good while, and you shall have good Pike sauce.
    For all the fish written above, if they are grilled[**] take this sauce for them: butter, pepper, and vinegar boiled upon a chafing dish, then lay the broiled fish upon the dish. But for Eels and fresh salmon take nothing but Pepper and vinegar that is over-boiled[***]. And also, if you fry them you must take a good quantity of parsley and, after the fish is fried, put the parsley into the frying pan, and let it fry in the butter, and take it out and place it on the fried fish. And [in this manner] fry plaice, whiting and other similar fish, except Eels, fresh Salmon and Conger [eels], which should never be fried but baked, boiled, roasted or poached.

 To make a Cuſtarde.     A cuſtarde the cofyn muſte be fyꝛſte hardened in the ouen, and thē take a quart of creame and fyue oꝛ ſyxe yolkes of egges, and beate them well together, and put them into the creame, and put in Suger and ſmall Reyſyns and Dates ſliced, and put into the coffyn butter oꝛ els maꝛrowe, but on the fyſhe daies put in butter.

To make a Custard. The crust for a custard must first be hardened in the oven, and then take a quart of cream and five or six yolks of eggs, and beat them well together and put them into the cream, and put in Sugar and small Raisins and sliced Dates, and put them into the crust [with] butter or else marrow. But on fish days [just] put in butter.