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COOKERIE AND Houſwiferie
TAke a young Pigge being ſcalded, boile it in a faire water and white wine, put thereto ſome Baye leaues, ſome whole Ginger, and ſome Nutmegs quartered, a fewe whole cloues, boyle it thoroughly, and leaue it in the ſame broath it an earthen pot.
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1. To souse a young Pig.
Take a young Pig being scalded, boil it in fair water and white wine, put thereto some Bayleaves, some while Ginger, and some Nutmegs quartered, a few whole cloves, boil it thoroughly, and leave it in the same broth in an earthen pot.
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2. Aliter. ſhillings, & a noble, a pinte.
TAke a Pig being ſcalded, coller him vppe like brawne, and lap your collers in faire cloathes: when the fleſh is boyled tender, take it out, and put it in colde water and ſalt, and that wil make the skin white, make ſowſing drinke for it, with a quart of white wine, and a pottle of the ſame broth.
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2. Another Way.
Take a Pig that's been scalded, collar him up like brawn, and lap your collars in fair clothes: when the flesh is boiled tender, take it out, and put it in cold water and salt, and that will make the skin white, make sousing drink for it, with a quart of white wine, and a pottle of the same broth.
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3. To boyle a flounder or Pickerel, of the French faſhion.
TAke a pinte of white wine, the tops of young time and Roſemary, a little whole mace, a little whole pepper ſeaſoned with Veriuice, ſalt, and a peece of ſweete butter, and ſo ſerue it : this broth will ſerue to boyle Fiſh twiſe or thriſe in.
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3. To boil a flounder or Pickerel, of the French fashion.
Take a pint of white wine, the tops of young thyme and Rosemary, a little whole mace, a little whole pepper seasoned with Verjuice, salt, and a piece of sweet butter, and so serve it : this broth will serve to boil Fish twice or thrice in.
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4. To boile Sparrowes or Larks.
Take two ladles full of mutton broth, a little whole mace, put into it a peece of ſweet butter a handful of Parſly being picked, ſeaſon it with ſugar, veriuice, and a little pepper.
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4. To boil Sparrows or Larks.
Take two ladlesful of mutton broth, a little whole mace, put into it a piece of sweet butter a handful of Parsley being picked, season it with sugar, verjuice, and a little pepper.
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5. To boyle a Capon in white broth.
BOyle your Capon by it ſelfe in faire water, then take a ladlefull or two of mutton broth and a little white wine, a little whole mace, a bundle of ſweete hearbs, a little marrowe, thicken it with Almonds, ſeaſon it with ſugar, and a little veriuyce, boyle a fewe currants by themſelues, and a Date quartered, leaſt you diſcolor your broth, and put it on the breaſt of your Capon, Chicken or Rabbet: if you haue no Almonds, thicken it with Creame, or with yolkes of egges, garniſh your diſhes on the ſides with a Lemmon ſliced & ſugar.
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5. To boil a Capon in white broth.
Boil your Capon by itself in fair water, then take a ladleful or two of mutton broth and a little white wine, a little whole mace, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little marrow, thicken it with Almonds, season it with sugar, and a little verjuice, boil a few currants by themselves, and a Date quartered, least you discolour your broth, and put it on the breast of your Capon, Chicken or Rabbit: if you have no Almonds, thicken it with Cream, or with yolks of eggs, garnish your dishes on the sides with Lemon sliced and sugar.
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6. To boyle a Mallard, Teale, or Wigin.
TAke mutton broth, put it into a pipken, put into the belly of the foule a fevve ſweete hearbes and a little Mace, ſticke halfe a dozen of Cloues in his breaſt, thicken it with a toſte of bread ſtiepped in veriuice, ſeaſon it with a little pepper, and a little Sugar, alſo one Onion minced ſmall is very good in the broth of any water foule.
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6. To boil a Mallard, Teal, or Wigeon.
Take mutton broth, put it into a pikpin, put into the belly of the fowl a few sweet herbs and a little Mace, stick half a dozen cloves in his breast, thicken it with a toast of bread steeped in verjuice, season it with a little pepper, and a little Sugar, and also one Onion minced small is very good in the broth of any water fowl.
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7. To boyle a legge of Mutton after the French faſhion.
TAke al the fleſh out of your leg of mutton, or at the but end, preſeruing the skinne whole, and mince it ſmall with Oxe ſuet, and marrow, then take grated bread, ſweete Creame, and yolkes of egges, and a fewe ſweete hearbes, put vnto it Currans, and Raiſins of the ſunne, ſeaſon it with Nutmegs, Mace, Pepper, and a little ſugar, & ſo put it into the leg of Mutton againe where you tooke it out, and ſtew it in a pot with a marrowbone or two, ſerue in the marrowe bones with the ſtewed=broath and fruite, and ſeruēin your legge of mutton dry with carot rootes ſliced, & caſt groſſe pepper vpon the rootes.
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7. To boil a leg of Mutton after the French fashion.
Take all the flesh out of your leg of mutton, or at the butt end, preserving the skin whole, and mince it small with Ox suet, and marrow, then take grated bread, sweet Cream, and yolks of eggs, and a few sweet herbs, put unto it Currants and Sultanas, season it with Nutmegs, Mace, Pepper and a little sugar, and so put it into the leg of Mutton again where you too it out, and stew it in a pot with a marrowbone or two, serve-in the marrow bones with the stewed=broth and fruit, and serve-in your leg of mutton dry with carrot roots sliced, and cast gross pepper upon the roots.
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8. To boyle Pigs petitoes on the French faſhion.
BOyle them and ſlice them, being firſt rolled in a little batter, your batter being made with the yolke of an egge, two ſpoonefuls of ſweete creame, and one ſpoonfull of flower, make ſawce for it with Nutmeg, vinegar and ſugar.
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8. To boil Pigs' pettitoes in the French fashion.
Boil them and slice them, being first rolled in a little butter, your batter being made with the yolk of an egg, two spoonfuls of sweet cream, and one spoonful of flour, make sauce for it with Nutmeg, vinegar and sugar.
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9. To boyle Pigeons with rice.
BOyle them in mutton broath, putting ſweete hearbes in their bellies, then take a little Rice and boyle it in Creame, with a little whole mace, ſeason it with ſugar, lay it thick on their breaſts, wringing alſo the iuice of a Lemmon vpon them, and ſo ſerue them.
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9. To boil Pigeons with rice.
Boil them in mutton broth, putting sweet herbs in their bellies, then take a little Rice and boil it in cream, with a little whole mace, season it with sugar, lay it thick on their breasts, wringing also the juice of a Lemon upon them, and so serve them.
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10. To boyle a chine of veale, or a chicken in ſharpe broth with hearbes.
TAke a little muttō broth, white wine and veriuice, and a little whole mae, thē take lettuce, Spinage, and Parſley, and bruiſe it, & put it into your broth, ſeasoning it with veriuice, pepper and a little ſugar, and ſo ſerue it.
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10. To boil a chine of veal, or a chicken in sharp broth with herbs.
Take a little mutton broth, white wine and verjuice, and a little whole mace, then take lettuce, Spinach, and Parsley, and bruise it, and put it into your broth, seasoning it with verjuice, pepper and a little sugar, and so serve it.
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TAke the brawne of a Capon, toaſe it like wool, then boile it in ſweete Ceame with the whites of two egges, and beeing well boyled, hang it in a cloth, and let the whey run from it, then grinde it in an Alablaſter mortar with a woodden peſtell, then drawe it through a thinne Strayner with the yolks of two egges, and a little Roſewater, then ſet it on a chafing diſh with coales, mixing foure ounces of ſugar with it, and when it is cold diſh it vp like almond butter, and ſo ſerue it.
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11. To make Beaumanger.
Take the brawn of a Capon, tease it like wool, then boil it in sweet Cream with the whites of two eggs, and being well boiled, hang it in a cloth, and let the whey run from it, then grind it in an Alabaster mortar with a wooden pestle, then draw it through a thin Strainer with the yolks of two eggs, and a little Rosewater, then set it on a chafing dish with coals, mixing four ounces of sugar with it, and when it is cold dish it up like almond butter, and so serve it.
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18. To make a Polonian ſawſedge.
TAke the fillets of an hog, chop them verie ſmall with a handfull of red ſage, ſeaſon it hot with Ginger and pepper, and then put it in a great ſheepes gut, then let it lie three nights in brine, thē boyle it and hang it vp in a chimney where fire is vsually kept, and theſe ſawſedges will laſt one whole yeare. They are good for ſallades, or to garniſh boyled meates, or to make one reliſh a cup of wine.
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18. To make a Polonian sausage.
Take the fillets of a hog, chop them very small with a handful of red sage, season it hot with Ginger and pepper, and then put it in a great sheep's gut, then let it lie three nights in brine, then boil it and hang it up in a chimney where fire is usually kept, and these sausages will last one whole year. They are good for salads, or to garnish boiled meats, or to make one relish a cup of wine.
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13. To make tender and delicate Brawne.
PVt collars of brawne in kettles of water or other apt veſſels, into an ouen heated as you would for houſhold bread, couer the veſſels, & ſo leaue them as long in the ouen as you would doe a batch of bread. A late experience amongſt glentlewomen farre excelling the olde manner of boyling brawne in great & huge kettles. Quære if putting your liquor hot into the veſſels, and the brawne a little boiled firſt, if by this meanes you ſhal not giue greate expedition to your worke.
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13. To make tender and delicate Brawn.
Put collars of brawn in kettles of water or other apt vessels, into an oven heated as you would for household bread, cover the vessels and so leave them as long in the oven as you would do a batch of bread. A late experience amongst gentlewomen far excelling the old manner of boiling brawn in great and huge kettles. Quære if putting your liquor hot into the vessels, and the brawn a little boiled first, if by this means you shall not give great expedition to your work.
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INcorporate the bodie of ſaltfiſh, Stockfiſh, Ling, or any freſh fiſh that is not full of bones, with crums of bread, flower, Iſinglaſſe &c. and with proper ſpices agreeing with the nature of euerie ſeuerall fiſh, and of that paſte mole off the ſhapes & forms of little fiſhes: as of Roch, Dace, Perch, &c. and ſo by arte you may make many little fiſhes out of one great and naturall fiſh.
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14. Paste made of fish.
Incorporate the body of saltfish, Stockfish, Ling, or any fresh fish that is not full of bones, with crumbs of bread, flour, isinglass etc. and with proper spices agreeing with the nature of every several fish, and of that paste mould off the shapes and forms of little fishes: as of the Roach, Dace, Perch, etc, and so by art your may make many little fishes out of one great and natural fish.
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15. How to barrell ỽp Oyſters, ſo as they ſhall laſt for ſixe months ſweete and good, and in their naturall taste.
OPē your oiſters, take the licor of thē, and mixe a reaſonable proportion of the beſt white wine vinegar you can get, a little ſalt & ſome pepper, barrell the fiſh vp in ſmall caske, couering all the Oyſters in this pickle, and they will laſt a long time ; this is an excellent meanes to conuey Oyſters vnto drie townes, or to carie them in long voyages.
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15. How to barrel up Oysters, so as they shall last for six months sweet and good, and in their natural taste.
Open your oysters, take the liquor of them, and mix a reasonable proportion of the best white wine vinegar you can get, a little salt and some pepper, barrel the fish up in small cask, covering all the Oysters in this pickle, and they will last a long time; this is an excellent means to convey Oysters unto dry towns, or to carry them in long voyages.
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16. How to keepe freſh Salmon a whole month in his perfe taſte and delicacie.
FIrſt ſeeth your Salmon according to the vſuall manner, thē ſinke it in apt and cloſe veſſels in wine vinegar with a branch of Roſemarie therein. By this means Vintners and Cookes may make profit thereof when it is ſcarce in the markets, & Salmon thus prepared may be profitably brought out of Ireland and ſold in London or else where.
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16. How to keep fresh Salmon a whole month in his perfect taste and delicacy.
First seethe your Salmon according to the usual manner, then sink it in an apt and close vessel in wine vinegar with a branch of Rosemary therein. By this means Vintners and Cooks may make profit thereof when it is scarce in the markets, and Salmon thus prepared may be profitably brought out of Ireland and ſold in London or elsewhere.
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17. Fiſh kept long, and yet to eate ſhorte and delicately.
FRie your fiſh in oyle, ſome commend Rape Oyle, and ſome the ſweeteſt Sibill Oyle that you canne get, for the fiſh will not taſte at all of the Oyle becauſe it hath a watriſh bodie, & oyle and water make no true vnity, then put your fiſh in white wine vinegar, and ſo you may keepe it for the vſe of your Table any reaſonable time.
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17. Fish kept long, and yet to eat short and delicately.
Fry your fish in oil, some commend Rape Oil, and some the sweetest Sibill Oil that you can get, for the fish will not taste at all of the Oil because it has a watery body, and oil and water make no true unity, then put your fish in white wine vinegar, and so you may keep it for the use of your Table any reasonable time.
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18. How to keepe roaſted Beefe a long time ſweete and wholeſome.
THis is alſo done in wine vinegar, your peeces being not ouer great, & well and cloſe barrelled vp: this ſecret was fully proued in that honourable voyage vnto Cakes.
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18. How to keep roasted Beef a long time sweet and wholesome.
This is also done in wine vinegar, your pieces not over great, and well and close barrelled up: this secret was fully proved in that honourable voyage unto Cakes.
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19. How to keepe powdered beefe fiue or ſix weekes after it is ſodden, without any charge.
VVHen your beefe hath beene well & thorowly powdered by tenne or twelue dayes ſpace, then ſeeth it thoroughly, dry it with a cloth, and wrap it in dry clothes placing the ſame in cloſe veſſels and Cupboards, and it will keepe ſweete & ſound two or three moneths, as I am credibly informed from the experience of a kinde & louing friend.
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19. How to keep powdered beef five or six weeks after it is sodden, without any charge.
When your beef has been well and thoroughly powdered by ten or twelve days space, then seethe it thoroughly, dry it with a cloth, and wrap it in dry clothes placing the same in close vessels and Cupboards, and it will keep sweet and sound two or three months, as I am credibly informed from the experiences of a kind and loving friend.
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20. A conceipt of the Authors, how beefe may be carried at the ſea, with out that ſtrong and violent impreſſion of ſalt which is ỽſually purchaſed by long and extreme powdring.
HEre with good leaue & fauour of thoſe couteous gentlewomen, for whome I did principally if not only intend this litle treatiſe; I will make bold to lanch a little from the ſhoare, and trye what may bee done in the vaſte and wide Ocean, and in long and dangerous voyages, for the better preſeruation of ſuch vſuall viuals, as for want of this skill doe oftentimes meerely periſh, or elſe by the extreame pearcing of the ſalte, doe loſe euen their nutritiue length and vertue: & if any future experience doe happen to controll my preſent conceipt, let this excuſe a ſcholler, quoi in magnis eſt voluiſſe fatis. But now to our purpoſe, let all the boud bee firſt well gotten out of the beefe, by leauing the ſame ſome nine or tenne dayes in our vſuall brine, then barrell vp all the peeces in veſſels full of holes, faſtening them with ropes at the ſterne of the ſip; and ſo dragging them through the ſalte ſea water (which by his infinite change and ſucceſſion of water ſuffer no putrifaion, as I ſuppoſe) you may happily find your feefe both ſweete and ſauourie enough when you come to ſpend the ſame. And if this happē to fall out true vpon ſome triall thereof had, then either at my next impreſſion, or when I ſhall be vrged thereunto vpon any neceſsitie of ſeruice, I hope to diſcouer the meanes alſo whereby euerie Shippe may carry ſufficient ſtore of viuall for her ſelfe in more cloſe and conuenient cariages then thoſe looſe veſſels are able to performe. But if I may be allowed to carie eihther roaſted or ſodden fleſh to the ſea, then I dare aduenture my poore credit therein to preſerue for ſix whole moneths together, either Beefe, Mutton, Capons, Rabbets, &c. both in a cheape manner, and alſo as freſh as wee doe now vſually eate them at our Tables. And this I hold to be moſt ſingular & neceſſarie ſecret for all our Engliſh Nauie; which at all times vppon reaſonable termes I will be ready to diſcloſe for the good of my country.
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20. A concept of the Authors, how beef may be carried at the sea, without that strong and violent impression of salt which is usually purchased by long and extreme powdering.
Here with the good leave and favour of those courteous gentlewomen, for whom I did principally if not only intend this little treatise; I will make bold to launch a little from the shore, and try what may be done in the vast and wide Ocean, and in long and dangerous voyages, for the better preservation of such usual victuals, as for want of this skill do oftentimes merely perish, or else by the extreme piercing of the salt, do lose even their nutritive strength and virtue: and if any future experience does happen to control my present concept, let this excuse a scholar, quoi in magnis est voluisse fatis. But now to our purpose, let all the blood be first well gotten out of the beef, by leaving the same from nine or ten days in our usual brine, then barrel up the pieces in vessels full of holes, fastening them with ropes at the stern of the ship; and so dragging them through the salt sea water (which by his infinite change and succession of water will suffer no putrefaction, as I suppose) you may happily find your beef both sweet and savoury enough when you come to spend the same. And if this happens to fall out true upon some trial thereof had, then either at my next impression or when I shall be urged thereunto upon any necessity of service, I hope to discover the means also whereby every Ship may carry sufficient store of victuals for her self in more close and convenient carriages than those loose vessels are able to perform. But if I may be allowed to carry either roasted or sodden flesh to the sea, then I dare adventure my poor credit therein to preserve for six whole months together, either Beef, Mutton, Capons, Rabbits, etc, both in cheap manner, and also as fresh as we do not usually eat them at our Tables. And this I hold to be a most singular and necessary secret for all our English Navy; which at all times I will be ready to disclose for the good of my country.
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21. How to make ſundry ſorts of moſt daintie butter, hauing a liuely taſte of Sage, Cinamon, Nutmegs, Mace, &c.
THis is done by mixing a fewe drops of the extraed oyle of Sage, Cinamon, Nutmegs, Mace, &c, in the making vpo f your butter: for oyle and butter will incorporat and agree very kindely and naturallie together. And how to make the ſaid oyles, with all neceſarie veſſels, inſtruments & other circumſtances by a moſt plaine & familiar deſcription, See my Iewell houſe of Art and nature vnder the Title of diſtillation.
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21. How to make sundry sorts of most dainty butter, having a lively taste of Sage, Cinnamon, Nutmegs, Mace, &c.
This is done my mixing a few drops of the extracted oil of Sage, Cinnamon, Nutmegs, Mace, etc, in the making up of your butter: for oil and butter will incorporate and agree very kindly and naturally together. And how to make the said oils, with all necessary vessels, instruments and other circumstances by a most plain and familiar description, See my Jewell House of Art and nature under the Title of distillation.
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22. How to make a larger and daintier Cheeſe of the ſame proportion of milk then is commonly ỽſed or knowne by any of our best dairiewomen at this day.
HAuing brought your milke into curds by ordinarie rennet, either breake them with your handes according to the vſuall manner of other cheeſes, and after with a fleeting diſh, taking away as much of the whey as you can, or els put in the curds, without breaking, into your moate, let them ſo repoſe one houre, or two, or three; and then to a cheeſe of two gallons of milk, ad a waight of tenne or twelue pound, which waight muſt reſt vppon a couer, that is fit with the moate or caſe wherein it muſt truly deſcende by degrees as you increaſe your waight, or as the curdes doe ſink and ſettle. Let your curdes remaine ſo all that daye and night following vntil the next morning and then turne your cheeſe or curds, & place your waight again thereon, adding from time to time ſome more ſmall waight as you ſall ſee cauſe. Note that you muſt lay a cloath both vnder and ouer your curdes at the leaſt, if you will not wrap them all ouer as they do in other cheeſes, changing your cloth at euerie turning. Alſo if you will worke in any ordinary moat, you muſt place a round and broade hoope vpon the moat, being iuſt of the ſelfe ſame bigneſſe or circumference, or elſe you ſhall make a verie thinne cheeſe. Turne theſe cheeſes euerie morning and euening, or as often as you ſhall ſee cauſe, till the whey bee all run out, and then proceed as in ordinarie Cheeſes. Note that theſe moates would be full of holes, both in the ſides and bottome, that the whey may haue the ſpeedier paſſage. You may alſo make them in ſquare boxes full of holes, or elſe you may deuiſe moates or caſes either rounde or ſquare of fine wicker, which hauing wicket couers, may be by ſome ſlight be ſo ſtayed, as that you ſhall neede only morning and euening to turne the wrong ſide vpwarde, both the bottomes beeing made looſe and ſo cloſe, and fitting, as they make ſinke truely within the moate or molde, by reaſon of the waight that layeth thereon. Note that in other cheeſes the couer of the moat ſhutteth ouer the moat: but in theſe the couers deſcēd & fall within the moates. Alſo your ordinarie cheeſes are moe ſpongious and full of eyes then theſe, by reaſon of the voilent preſing of them, wheras theſe cheeſes ſetling gently and by degrees, do cut as cloſe and firme as marmalade. Alſo in thoſe cheeſes which are preſſed out after the vſuall māner the whey that cometh frō them, if it ſtande a while, will carrie a Creame vppon it, whereby the cheeſe muſt of neceſſitie be much leſſe, and as I gheſſe by a fourthe parte, whereas the wheye that commeth from theſe new kind of cheeſes is like faire water in color and caryeth no ſtrength with it. Note alſo that if you put in your curdes vnbroken, not taking away the whey that iſſueth in the breaking of thē, that ſo the cheeſes will yet bee ſo much the greater: but that is the more troubleſome way, becauſe the curds being tender will hardly endure the turning, vnleſſe you be verie carefull. I ſuppoſe that the Angelotes in Fraunce may bee made in this manner in ſmall baskets, and ſo likewiſe of the Parmeeſan; and if your whole cheeſe conſiſt of vnflatten milke, they will be full of butter and eate moſt daintily, being taken in their time, before they be too dry, for which purpoſe you may keepe them when they begin to growe dry, vpon greene rushses or nettles. I haue robbed my wifes Dairy of this ſecret, who hath hitherto refuſed all recompences that haue beene offered her by Gentlewomē for the ſame: & had I loued a cheeſe my ſelfe ſo well as I like the receipt, I thinke I ſhould not ſo eaſily haue inparted the ſame at this time. And yet I muſt needes confeſſe, that for the better gracing of the Title wherewith I haue fronted this pamphlet, I haue beene willing to publiſh this with ſome other ſecrets of worth, for the which I haue many times refuſed good ſtore both of Crownes and Angels: and therefore let no Gentlewoman think this booke too dear, at what price ſo euer it ſhall be valued vpon the ſale thereof, neither can I eſteeme the worke to be of leſſe then twentie yeeres gathering.
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22. How to make a larger and daintier Cheese of the same proportion of milk that is commonly used or known by any of our best dairywomen at this day.
Having brought your milk into curds by ordinary rennet, either break them with your hands according to the usual manner of cheeses, and after with a fleeting dish, taking away as much of the whey as you can, or else put in the curds, without breaking, into your moat, let them so repose one hour, or two, or three; and then to a cheese of two gallons of milk, add a weight of ten or twelve pounds, which weight must rest upon a cover, this is fit with the moat or case wherein it must truly descend by degrees as you increase your weight, os as the curds do sink and settle. Let your curds remain so all that day and night following until the next morning and then turn your cheese or curds, and place your weight again thereon, adding from time to time some more small weight as you shall see cause. Note that you must lay a cloth both under and over your curds at the least, if you will not wrap them all over as they do in other cheeses, changing your cloth at every turning. Also if you will work in any ordinary moat, you must place a round and broad hoop upon the moat, being just of the self-same bigness or circumference, or else you shall make a very thin cheese. Turn these cheeses every morning and evening, or as often as you shall see cause, till the whey be all run out, and then proceed as in ordinary Cheeses. Note that these moats would be full of holes, both in the sides and bottom, that the whey may have the speedier passage. You may also make them in square boxes full of holes, or else you may devise moats or cases wither round or square of fine wicker, which having wicker covers, may by some flight be so stayed, as that you shall need only morning and evening to turn the wrong side upwards, both the bottoms being made loose and so close, and fitting, as they amy sink truly within the moat or mould, by reason of the weight that lies thereon. Note that in other cheeses the cover of the moat shuts over the moat: but in these the covers descend and fall within the moats. Also your ordinary cheeses are more spongy and full of eyes than these, by reason of the violent pressing of them, whereas these cheeses settling gently and by degrees, do cut as close and firm as marmalade. Also in those cheeses which are pressed out after the usual manner, the whey that comes from them, if it stands a while, will carry a Cream upon it, whereby the cheese must of necessity be much less, and as I guess by a fourth part, whereas the whey that comes from these new kind of cheeses is like fair water in colour and carries no strength with it. Note also that if you put in your curds unbroken, not taking away the whey that issues in the breaking of them, that so the cheeses will yet be so much the greater: but that is the more troublesome way, because the curds being tender will hardly endure the turning, unless you be very careful. I suppose that the Angelotes in France may be made in this manner in small baskets, and so likewise the Parmesan; and if your whole cheese consists of unflatten milk, they will be full of butter and eat most daintily, being taken in their time, before they be too dry, for which purpose you may keep them when they begin to grow dry, upon green rushes or nettles. I have robbed my wife's Dairy of this secret, who has hitherto refused all recompenses that have been offered her by Gentlewomen for the same: and had I loved the cheese my self so well as I like this receipt, I think I should not so easily have imparted the same at this time. And yet I must need confess, that for the better gracing of the Title wherewith I have been willing to publish this with some other secrets of worth, for the which I have many times refused good store both of Crowns and Angels: and therefore let no Gentlewoman think this book too dear, at what price soever it shall be valued upon the sale thereof, neither can I esteem the work to be of less than twenty years gathering.
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TAke your milke beeing newe milked; and preſently ſet it vpon the fire from morning vntil the euening, but let it not ſeethe : and his is called my Lady Youngs clowted creame.
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23. Clotted cream.
Take your milk being newly milked; and presently set it upon the fire from morning until the evening, but let it not seethe : and this is called my Lady Young's clotted cream.
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24. Fleſh kept ſweet in ſummer.
YOu may keepe veale, mutton, or veniſon in the heat of ſummer 9. or ten dayes good, ſo as it be newly & faire killed, by hanging the ſame in a high and windie roome (And therefore a plate cupboard full of holes, ſo as the wind may haue a through paſſage would be placed in ſuch a roome, to auoide the offēce of fly-blowes) this is an approued ſecret, eaſie and cheap, and very neceſſary to be known and praiſed in hote & tainting weather. Veale may bee kept ten daies in bran.
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24. Flesh kept sweet in summer.
You may keep veal, mutton, or venison in the heat of summer nine or ten days good, so as it be newly and fair killed, by hanging the same in a high and windy room (and therefore a plate cupboard full of holes, so as the wind may have a through passage would be placed in such a room, to avoid the offence of fly-blows) this is an approved secret, easy and cheap, and very necessary to be known and practised in hot and tainting weather. Veal may be kept ten days in bran.
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IT is vſuall in Venice to ſell the meale of Muſtarde in their markets, as we do flower and meale in England : this meale by the addition of vinegar in two or three dayes becōmeth exceeding good muſtard, but it would bee much ſtronger and finer, if the husks or huls were firſt diuided by ſearce or boulter, which may eaſily bee don, if you drie your ſeeds againſt the fire before you grind thē. The Dutch iron handmills, or an ordinarie pepper mill may ſerue for this purpoſe. I thought it verie neceſarie to publiſh this manner of making of your ſauce, becauſe our muſtard which wee but from the Chandlers at this daye is manie times made vp with vile and filthy vinegar, ſuch as our ſtomak would abhorre if we ſhould ſee it before the mixing thereof with the ſeedes.
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25. Mustard meal.
It is usual in Venice to sell the meal of Mustard in their markets, as we do flour and meal in England : this meal by the addition of vinegar in two or three days becomes exceedingly good mustard, but it would be much stronger and finer, if the husks or hulls were first divided by searce or boulter, which may easily be done, if you dry your seeds against the fire before you grind them. The Dutch iron handmills, or an ordinary pepper mill may serve for this purpose. I thought it very necessary to publish this manner of making of your sauce, because our mustard which we buy from the Chandlers at this day is many times made up with vile and filthy vinegar, such as our stomach would abhor if we should see it before the mixing thereof with the seeds.
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26. How to auoid ſmoke, in broyling of Bacon, Carbonado, &c.
MAke little dripping pans of paper; paſting vp the corners with ſtarch or paſte, wet them a little in water, but Pope Pius Quintus his Cooker will haue them touched ouer with a feather firſt dipped in oyle or molten butter, lay them on your gridiron, & place therein your ſlices of bacon, turning thē as you ſee caſe. This is a cleanly way, and auoydeth all ſmoke. In the ſame manner you may alſo broile thin ſlices of Polonian ſawſedges, or great oyſters, for ſo were the Popes Oyſters dreſſed. You muſt be carefull that your fire vnder the gridiron flame not, leaſt your happen to burne your dripping pannes, and therefore all colebrands are here ſecluded.
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26. How to avoid smoke, in broiling of Bacon, Carbonado, &c.
Make little dripping pans of paper; pasting up the corners with starch or paste, wet them a little in water, but Pope Pius Quintus his Cook will have them touched over with a feather first dipped in oil or molten butter, lay them on your gridiron, and place therein your slices of bacon, turning them as you see cause. This is a cleanly way, and avoids all smoke, In the same manner, you may also broil thin slices of Polonian sausages, or great oysters, for so were the Pope's Oysters dressed. You must be careful that your fire under the gridiron flame not, least you happen to burn your dripping pans, and therefore all coalbrands are here secluded.
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27. The true bottling of beere.
WHen your Beere is tenne or twelue dayes old, whereby it is growne reaſonable cleare, then bottle it, making your corkes verie fitte for the bottles, and ſtop them cloſe, but drinke not of this beere till they beginne to worke againe and mantle, and then you ſhall finde the ſame moſt excellent and ſprightly drinke: and this is the reaſon why bottle ale is both ſo windie and muddy, thundring & ſmoaking vpon the opening of the bottle, becauſe it is commonly bottle the ſame day that it is laide into the Cellar, whereby this yeaſt being an exceeding windie ſubſtance, beeing alſo drawne with the Ale not yet fined, doth incorporate with the drinke, and maketh it alſo verie windie, and this is all the lime and gunpowder wherewith bottle Ale hath beene a long time ſo wrongfully charged.
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27. The true bottling of beer.
When your beer is ten or twelve days old, whereby it is gown reasonably clear, then bottle it, making your corks very fit for the bottles, and stop them close, but drink not of this beer till they begin to work again and mantle, and then you shall find the same most excellent and sprightly drink: and this is the reason why bottle ale is both so windy and muddy, thundering and smoking upon the opening of the bottle, because it is commonly bottled the same day that it is laid into the Cellar, whereby his yeast being and exceeding windy substance, being also drawn with the Ale not yet fined, does incorporate with the drink, and makes it also very windy, and this is all the lime and gunpowder wherewith bottle Ale has been a long time so wrongfully charged.
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28. How to helpe your bottles when they are mustie.
SO aſe put them in an ouen when the breade is newly drawen, cloſing vp the oven, and ſo let them reſt till morning. Others content themſelues with ſcalding them in hotte liquor onely till they bee ſweete.
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28. How to help your bottles when they are musty.
So as put them in an oven when the bread is newly drawn, closing up the oven, and so let them rest till morning. Others content themselves with scalding them in hot liquor only till they be sweet.
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29. How to breake whites of Egs ſpeedily.
A Figge or two ſhred in peeces, and then beaten amongſt the whites of egges will bringe them into an oyle ſpeedily: ſome breake them with a ſtubbed rod, & some by wringing them often through a ſpoonge.
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29. How to break whites of Eggs speedily.
A fig or two shred in pieces and then beaten amongst the whites of eggs will bring them into an oil speedily: some break them with a stubbed rod, and some by wringing them often through a sponge.
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30. How to keepe flies from oyle peeces.
A Line limed ouer and ſtrained about the creſt of oyle peeces or piures, will catch the Flyes, that would otherwiſe deface the Piures. But this Italian conceipt both for the rareneſſe and vſe thereof doth pleaſe me aboue all other: viz, Pricke a Cowcumber full of barley cornes with the ſmall ſpiring ends cutward, make little holes in the Cowcumber firſt with a wodden or bone bodkin, and after put in the graine, theſe being thicke placed will in time couer all the Cowcumber, ſo as no man can diſcerne what ſtrange plant the ſame ſhould bee. Such Cowcumbers are to bee hung vp in the middeſt of Summer roomes to drawe all the flies vnto thē, which otherwiſe would flie vpon the Piures or hangings.
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30. How to keep flies from oil pieces.
A Line limed over and strained about the crest of oil pieces or pictures, will catch the Flies, that would otherwise deface the Pictures. But this Italian concept both for the rareness and the use thereof doth please me above all other: viz. Prick a Cucumber full of barley corns with the small spring ends cutwards, make little holes in the Cucumber first with a wooden or bone bodkin, and after put in the grain, these being thick placed will in time cover all the Cucumber, so as no man can discern what strange plant the same should be. Such Cucumbers are to be hung up in the middle of Summer rooms to draw all the flies unto them, which otherwise would fly upon Pictures or hangings.
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31. To keepe Lobſters, Crofiſhes; &c. ſweet and good for ſome fewe dayes.
THeſe kinds of fiſh are noted to be of no durabilitie of laſting in warme weather, yet to prolong their dayes a little, though I feare I ſhall raiſe the price of them by this diſcouerie amongſt the fiſhmongers (who onely in reſpe of their ſpeedie decay doe now nad then afford a peniworth in them ) if you wrappe them in ſweete and courſe rags firſt moiſtened in brine, and then burie theſe cloathes in Callis ſand, that is alſo kept in ſome coole and moiſt place, I know by mine owne experience that you ſhall finde your labour well beſtowed, and the rather if you lay thē in ſeuerall clothes, ſo as one doe not touch the other.
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31. To keep Lobsters, Crayfish; etc. sweet and good for some few days.
These kinds of fish are noted to be of no durability of lasting in warm weather, yet to prolong their days a little, though I fear I shall raise the price of them by this discovery amongst the fishmongers (who only in respect of their speedy decay do now and then afford a pennyworth in them ) if you wrap them in sweet and course rags first moistened in brine, and then bruise these clothes in Callis sand, that is also kept in some cool and moist place, I know by my won experience that you shall find your labour well bestowed, and the rether if you lat them in several clothes, so as one does not touch the other.
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32. Diuers excellent kinds of bottle Ale.
I Cannot remember that euer I did drinke the like ſage ale at any time, as that which is made by mingling two or three droppes of the extraed oyle of ſage with a quart of Ale, the ſame beeing well brued out of one pot into another; and in this way a whole Stand of ſage ale is very ſpeedily made. The like is to bee done with the oyle of Mace or Nutmegs. But if you will make a right goſsips cup that ſhall farre exceed all the Ale that euer mother Bunch ande in her life time, then in the bottling vp of your best Ale, tunne half a pinte of white Ipocras that is newly made, and after the beſt receipt, with a pottle of Ale, ſtoppe your bottle cloſe, and drinke it when it is ſtale: Some commend the hanging of roaſted Orenges prickt full of Cloues in the veſſell of Ale till you find the taſte thereof ſufficiētly graced to your own liking.
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32. Diverse excellent kinds of bottle Ale.
I cannot remember that ever I did drink the like sage ale at any time, as that which is made by mingling two or three drops of the extracted oil of sage with a quart of Ale, the same being well brewed out of one pot into another; and this way a whole Stand of sage ale is very speedily made. The like is to be done with the oil of Mace or Nutmegs. but if you will make a right gossips cup that shall far exceed all the Ale that ever mother Bunch made in her lifetime, then in the bottling up of your best Ale, tun half a pint of white Ypocras that is newly made, and after the best receipt with a pottle of Ale, stop your bottle close, and drink it when it is stale: Some commend the hanging of roasted Oranges pricked full of Cloves in the vessel of Ale till you find the taste thereof sufficiently graced to your own liking.
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33. How to make wormewood wine verie ſpeedily and in great quantity.
TAke ſmall Rochell or Coniake wine, put a few drops of the extraed oile of wormwood therein, brewe it togither (as before is ſet down in bottle ale) out of one pot into an other, and you ſhall haue a more neate an dwholeſom wine for your body, thē that which is ſolde at the Stillyard for right wormwood wine.
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33. How to make wormwood wine very speedily and in great quantity.
Take a small Rochelle or Cognac wine, put a few drops of the extracted oil of wormwood therein, brew it together (as before is set down in bottle ale) out of one pot into another, and you shall have a more neat and wholesome wine for your body, than that which is sold at the Still-yard for right wormwood wine.
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34. Roſewater and Roſeuinegar of the colour of the Roſe, and of the Cowſlep, and violet vinegar.
IF you woulde make your Roſewater and Roſevinegar of a Rubie color, then make choiſe of the crimſon veluet coloured leaues, clipping away the whites with a paire of ſheeres, & being through dryed, put a good large handful of them into a pinte of Damaske or red roſewater, ſtop your glaſſe wel & set it in the ſun, til you ſee that the leaues have loſt their colour. Or for more expedition you may performe this worke in balneo in a few houres, and when you take out the old leaues, you may put in freſh till you finde the color to pleaſe you. Keep this Roſewater in glaſſes very well ſtopt, the fuller the better. What I haue ſaid of Roſewater, the ſame may alſo be intended of Roſe vinegar, violet, marigolde, and cowſlep vinegar, but the whiter vinegar you chuſe for this purpoſe, the colour thereof will be the brighter, and therefore diſtilled Vinegar is beſt for this purpoſe, ſo as the ſame bee warily diſtilled with a true diuiſion of parts, according to the maner expreſſed in this booke in the diſtillation of vinegar.
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34. Rose water and Rose vinegar of the colour of the Rose, and of the Cowslip, and violet vinegar.
If you would make your Rose water and Rose vinegar of a Ruby colour, then make choice of the crimson velvet coloured leaves, clipping away the whites with a pair of shears, and being through dried, put a good large handful of them into a pint of Damask or red rosewater, stop your glass well and set it in the sun, till you see that the leaves have lost their colour. Or for more expedition you may perform this work in balneo in a few hours, and when you take out the old leaves, you may put in fresh till you find the colour to please you. Keep this Rosewater in glasses very well stoppered, the fuller the better. What I have said of Rosewater, the same may also be intended of Rose vinegar, violet, marigold, and cowslip vinegar, but the whiter vinegar you choose for this purpose, the colour thereof will be the brighter, and therefore distilled Vinegar is best for this purpose, so as the same be warily distilled with a true division of parts, according ot the manner expressed in this book in the distillation of vinegar.
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35. To keepe the iuice of Oranges and Lemmons all the yeare for ſauce, Iuleps and other purpoſes.
EXpreſſe their iuice, and paſſe it through an Ipocraſſe bagge to clarifie it from his impurities, then fill your glaſſe almoſt to the top, couer it cloſely, nd let it ſtand ſo till it haue done boyling; then fill vp your glaſe with good ſalet oyle, and ſet it in a coole cloſet or butterie where no Sun commeth; the apteſt glaſſes for this purpoſe are ſtraight vpright ones, like to our loong beere glaſſes, which would bee made with little round holes within two inches of the bottome to receiue apt fawcets, & ſo the grounds or lees would ſettle to the bottome, and the oyle would ſinke downe with the iuice ſo cloſely that all putrefaion would be auoyded: or in ſteede of holes if there were glaſſe pipes it were the better & readyer way, becauſe you ſhall hardly faſten a fawcet well in the hole. You may alſo in this manner preſerue many iuyces of hearbes and flowers.
And becauſe that profite and skill vnited do grace each other if (curteous Ladies) you will lend eares and followe my direion; I will heere furniſh a great number of you (I woulde I coulde furniſh you all) with the iuice of the beſt ciuill Orenges at an eaſie price, About Alhallontide or ſoone after you may buy the inward pulpe of ciuill Orēges wherein the iuice reſteth, of the comfetmakers for a ſmall matter, who doe onely or principally reſpe their rindes to repſerue and make Orengeadoes withall, this iuice you may prepaire and reſerue as before.
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35. To keep the juice of Oranges and Lemons all the year for sauce, Juleps and other purposes.
Express their juice, and pass it through an Ypocras bag to clarify it from his impurities, then fill your glass almost to the top, cover it closely, and let it stand so till it has done boiling; then fill up your glass with good salad oil, and set it in a cool closet or buttery where no Sun comes; the aptest glasses for this purpose are straight upright ones, like to our long beer glasses, which would be made with little round holes within two inches of the bottom to receive apt faucets, and so the grounds or lees would settle to the bottom, and the oil would sink down with the juice so closely that all putrefaction would be avoided: or in stead of holes if there were glass pipes it were the better and readier way, because you shall hardly fasten a faucet well in the hole. You may also in this manner preserve many juices of herbs and flowers.
And because that profit and skill united do grace each other, if (courteous Ladies) you will lend ears and follow my direction; I will here follow my direction; I will here furnish a great number of you (I would I could furnish you all) with the juice of the best Seville Oranges at an easy price, About Allhallowtide or soon after you may buy the inward pulp of Seville Oranges wherein the juice rests, of the comfitmakers for a small matter, who do only or principally respect their rinds to preserve and make Orangeadoes therewith, this juice you may prepare and reserve as before.
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36. Howe to purifie and giue an excellent ſmell and taſte unto ſallet oyle.
PVt ſallet Oyle in a Veſſell of wood or earth, hauing a hole in the bottom, to euery 4 quartes of water adde one quarte of oyle, and with a woodden ſpoone or ſpattle beate them well togither for a quarter of an houre, then let out the water, preuenting the oyle from iſſuing by ſtopping of the hole, repeate this worke two or three times, and at the laſt you ſhall finde your oile wel clenſed or clarified. In this maner you may alſo clarifie capons greaſe, being firſt melted, and working with wamr vvater. All this is borrowed of M. Bartholomæus Scapius the Maiſter Cook of Pope Pius Quintus his piruie kitchen. I thinke if the laſt agitation were made in Roſewater, wherein alſo cloues or Nutmegs had been macerated, that ſo the oyle would bee yet more pleaſing.
Or if you ſet a Iar glasse, in blaneo full of ſweete oyle with ſome ſtore of bruiſed cloues, and rinds of ciuil Oranges or Lemmons alſo therein, and ſo continue your fire for tvvo or three houres, and then letting the Cloues & rindes remain in the oil til both the ſend & taſte do pleaſe you: I think many men which at this day do loath oile (as I myſelfe did not long ſince) woulde be eaſily drawen to a ſufficient liking thereof.
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36. How to purify and give an excellent smell and taste unto salad oil.
Put salad Oil in a Vessel of wood or earth, having a hole in the bottom, to every four quarts of water add one quart of oil, and with a wooden spoon or spatula beat them well together for a quarter of an hour, then let out the water, preventing the oil form issuing by stopping of the hole, repeat this work tow or three times, and at the last you shall find your oil well cleansed or clarified. In this manner you may also clarify capon's grease, being first melted, and working with warm water. All this is borrowed of M. Bartholomæus Scapius the Master Cook of Pope Pius Quintus his privy kitchen. I think if the last agtation were made in Rosewater, wherein also cloves or Nutmegs had been macerated, that so the oil would be yet more pleasing.
Or if you set a Jar glasse in balneo full of sweet oil with some store of bruised cloves, and rinds of Seville Oranges or Lemons also therein, and so continue your fire for two or three hours, and then letting the Cloves and rinds remain in the oil till both the scent and taste do pleas you: I think many men which at this day to loathe oil (as I myself did not long since) would be easily drawn to a sufficient liking thereof.
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37. How to clarifie without any diſtillation both white and & claret wine vinegar for gellies or ſauces.
TO euerie ſixe pintes of good wine vinegar, put the whites of tvvo new laid Egges well beatē, then put all into a nevve leaden pipkin, & cauſe the ſame to boyle a little ouer a gentle fire, then let it run through a courſe gelly bag twiſe or thriſe, and it vvill be very clear, and keep good one whole yeare.
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37. How to clarify without any distillation both white and claret wine vinegar for jellies or sauces.
To every six pints of good wine vinegar, put the whites of two new laid Eggs well beaten, then put all into a new leaden pipkin, and cause the same to boil a little over a gentle fire, then let it run through a course jelly bag twice or thrice, and it will be very clear, and keep good one whole year.
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38. To make a moſt delicate white ſalte for the table.
FIrſt calcine or burn your white ſalt, thē diſſolue it in cleare conduit water, let the water ſtād without ſtirring, fortie eight houres, then carefully drawe away all the cleare water only, filter it, & after euaporate the filtred liquor, reſeruing the ſalt. Some leaue out calcination.
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38. To make a most delicate white salt for the table.
First calcine or burn your white salt, then dissolve it in clear conduit water, let the water stand without stirring, forty-eight hours, then carefully draw away all the clear water only, filter it, and after evaporate the filtered liquor, reserving the salt. Some leave out calcination.
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39. A delicate Candle for a Ladies Table.
CAuſe your Dutch Candles to be dipped in Virgin wax, ſo as their laſt coate may be meerly waxe, and by this meanes, you may carrie them in your hande without melting, and the ſent of the tallow will not break through to giue offence, but if you would haue them to reſemble yellovve waxe candles, then firſt let the tallow be colored with Turmericke boyled therein, and ſtrayned, and after your Candles haue beene dipped therein to a ſufficient greatneſſe, let them take their laſt coat from yellow wax, this may be done in a great round Cane of tinne plate, hauing a bottome, & being ſomewhat deeper then the length of your candles: & as the wax ſpendeth, you may ſtill ſupply it with more.
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39. A delicate Candle for a Ladies Table.
Cause your Dutch Candles to be dipped in Virgin wax, so as their last coat may be merely wax, and by this means, you may carry them in your hand without melting, and the scent of the tallow will not break through to give offence, but if you would have them to resemble yellow wax candles, then first let the tallow be coloured with Turmeric boiled therein, and strained, and after your Candles have been dipped therein to a sufficient greatness, let them take their last coat from yellow wax, this may be done in a great round Cane of tin plate, having a bottom, and being somewhat deeper that the length of your candles: and as the wax spends, you may still supply it with more.
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40. How to hang your candles in the aire without candleſticke.
THis will make a ſtrange ſhewe to the beholders that knowe not the conceite, it is done in this manner: Let a fine Virginall wier be conueied, in the midſt of everie wecke and left of ſome length aboue the Candle to faſten the ſame to the poſtes in the roofe of your houſe, and if the room be any thing high roofed, it will be hardly diſcerned, and the flame though it conſume the tallow, yet it will not melt the wier.
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40. How to hang your candles in the air wiuthout candlesticks.
This will make a strange show to the beholders that know not the conceit, it is done in this manner: Let a fine Virginal wire be conveyed, in the midst of every wick and left of some length above the Candle to fasten the same to the posts in the roof of your house, and if the room be anything high roofed, it will be hardly discerned, an the flame though it consumes the tallow, yet it will not melt the wire.
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41. Roſe Vinegar made in a new manner.
MAcerate or ſteepe Roſēleaues in faire water, let them lye therein, til they wax ſoure in ſmell, and then diſtill the water.
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41. Rose Vinegar made in a new manner.
Macerate or steep Rose-leaves in fair water, let them lie therein, till they wax sour in smell, and then distill the water.
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