Closet For Ladies: Part 1 Preserving

Welcome to FabulousFusionFood's Closet for Ladies and Modern Redaction Recipes, section 1: Preserving — This is the first section of the 1608 volume, Closet for Ladies. Here you will find recipes for 'Preserving'. I have used a special font to present the recipes in as close a form to the original as possibleas well as side-by-side updates of the text to modern English orthography. I am also working on providing modern redactions for each and every recipe presented here. Enjoy...

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You will encounter many unfamiliar culinary terms and usages in this work. Where the recipe has been redacted into modern form, these are either defined in the redaction or a link to a definition is given. However, may of the terms can also be found by browsing or searching the glossary of cooking and food terms pages on this site.

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A Closet for Ladies: Section 1: Preserving

An especiall note of confectionary. To preſerue Pippyns red. TAke your beſt coloured Pippins and pare them, then take a percer and bore a hole through them, then make syrupe for them as much as wil couer them, and ſo let them boyle in a broad preſeruing pan: put into them a pece of Cynamon ſticke, and ſo let them boyle close couered verie leasurely, turning them very often, for if you turne them not very often, they will pot, and the one side will not bee like the other, and let them thus boyle, vntil they begin to gelly, then take them vp, and pot them, and you may keepe them all the yeare. 1. To preserve Pippins red. Take your best-coloured Pippins and pare then then take a piercer and core a hole through them, then make syrup a syrup for them (as much as will cover them), and sl let them boil in a broad preserving pan. Add to them a piece of Cinnamon scitk, and so let them boil, tightly covered, very leisurely, turning them very often (because, if you do not turn them frequently, they will pot and one side will be different from the other, and let them boil thus, until they begin to jelly, then extract them and pot them and you may keep them all year. To Preſerue Pippins white. TAke faire large Pippins, and after Candlemas pare them, and bore a hole through them, as you did for the red ones, then make a weake Syrope for them, and ſo let them boyle till they be tender, then take them vp, and boyle your ſyrope a little higher, then put them vp in a Gally pot, and let them stand all night, and the next morning the Syrope will be something weaker, then boyle the Syrope againe to his full thickeneſſe, and ſo pot them, and you may keepe them all the yeare. If you pleaſe to haue them taste a pleasant taste more then the naturall Pippin, put in one graine of muske, and one droppe of the Chymicall oyle of Cynnamon, and that will make them taste a more pleasant taste. 2. To preserve Pippins white. Take fair large pippins and after Candlemas pare tham and bore a hole through them, as you did for the red ones, then make a weak Syrup for them, and so let them boil until they are thender, then remove them and boil your syrup a little higher, then put them in a Gallipot and let them stand all night, and the next morning the Syrup will be a little weaker, then boil the Srup again to its full thickness, and so pot them, and you may keep them all the year. If you would like to have the taste of a pleasant taste more so than the natural Pippin, put in one grain of musk, and one drop of the Chemical oil of Cinnamon, and that will make them taste a more pleastant taste. To preſerue Pippins greene. TAke Pippins when they be ſmall and greene of the tree, and pare three or four of the worſt, and cut them all to pieces, then boyle them in a quart of faire water till they be pap, then let the liquor come from them as you do from your quodiniacke into a bason, then put into thē one poūd of sugar clarified, and put into this as many greene Pippins vnpared as that liquor will couer, and ſo let them boyle ſafely, and when you ſee they be boyled as tender as a quodling, then take them vp, and pill of the outtermoſt white skinne, and then your Pippins will be greene, then boyle them in your Syrope againe till the Syrope be thicke: and ſo you may keepe them all the yeare. 3. To preserve Pippins Green. Take pippins when they are small and green on the tree, and pare three or four of the worst, and cut them into [small] pieces, then boil them in a quart of fair water until they are pap, then let the liquor come from them as you do from a quodinack* into a basin, then put into them one pound of clarified sugar, and put into this as many green pippins, unpared, as the liquor will cover, and so let them boil safely, and when you see they are boiled as tender as a codling [apple], take them out and peel off the outermost white skin, and then your Pippins will be green, then boil them in your syrup again until the syrup is thick; and so you may keep them all the year. To preſerue Apricockes. TAke a pound of Apricockes, and a pound of ſugar, and claryfie your ſugar with a pint of water, and when your ſugar is made perfect, put it into a Preſeruing-pan, & put your Apricockes into it and ſo let them boyle gently, and when they bee boyled ynough and your Syrope thicke, pot them and ſo keepe them. In like maner may you preſerue a Pear-plum. 4. To preserve Apricots. Take a pound of apricots [pared and stoned]*, and a pound of white sugar, and clarify your sugar with a pint of water, and when your sugar is made perfect, put it into a preserving pan, and put your apricots into it and so let them boil gently, and when they are boiled sufficiently, and your syrup is thick, pot them and so store them, In the same maner you can preserve a pear-plum. To preſerue Mirabolans or Malacadonians. TAke your Malacadonians and ſtone them, and per boyle them in water, then pill of the outward skin of them, they will boyle as long as a peece of beefe, & therefore you need not feare the breaking of them, and when they be boyled tender make Syrope for them, and preſerue them as you doe any other thing, and ſo you may keepe them all the yeare. 5. To preserve Mirabolans or Malacadonians*. Take your melocotons and stone them, and parboil them in water, then peel off the outer skin from them, they will boil as long as a piece of beef, and therefore you need not fear they will break, and when they are boiled theder make syrup for them, and preserve them as you do any other thing, and so you may keep them all the year. To preſerue Pomcitrons. TAke your Pomcitrons one pound and a halfe, and cut them ſome in halfes, ſome in quarters and take the meate out of them, and boyle them tender in faire water, then take two pounds of ſugar being clarified, and make Syrope for them, and let them boyle in ſyrope a quarter of an houre very gently, then take them vp, and let your Syrope boyle til it be thicke, and then put in your Pomcitrons, and you may keepe them al they yere. If you please you may pare ſome of them, forsome delight the skin, and ſome pared. 6. To preserve Pomcitrons*. Take a pound and a half of Pomcitrons and cut some of them in half and some into quarters and take the meat from them, and boil them tender in fair water, then take two pounds of clarified sugar, and make Syrup from themm and let them boil very gently in syrup for a quarter of an hour, then take them out, and let your syrup boil until it is thick, and then put in your Pomcitrons, and you may keep them all the year. If you like, you may pare some of them, for some love the skin, and some [the pomcitrons] pared. To preſerue Cherries. TAke of the beſt and fayreſt Cherries ſome two pound, and with a paire of ſheeres clippe of the ſtalkes by the midſt, then waſh them cleane, and beware you bruise them not, then take of fine barbarie ſugar, and ſet it ouer the fire with a quart of faire water in the brodeſt veſſell you can get, and let it ſeeth til it be ſomewhat thicke, then put in your Cherries, and ſtirre them together with a ſiluer ſpoone and ſo let them boyle, alwayes ſcumming, and turning them very gently, that the one ſide may be like the other, vntill they be ynough, the which to know, you muſt take vp ſome of the ſyrope with one Cherrie, and ſo let it coole, and if it will ſcarce run out it is ynough, and thus being cold, you may put them vp, and keepe them all the yeare. 7. To preserve Cherries. Take two pounds of the best and fairest cherries, and with a pair of shears clip off the stalks in the centre, then wash them clean, and be careful you do not bruise them, then take some fine barbary sugar, and set it over the fire with a quart of fair water in the broadest vessel you can get, and let it boil until it is slightly thickened, then put in your cherries and stir them together with a silver spoon and so let them boil, always removing the scum, and turning them very gently, that the one side may be like the other, until they are sufficiently cooked. Which you will know by: you must take ouf some of the syrup with one cherry, and so let it cool, and if it hardly runs [from the spoon] then it has cooked sufficiently. And being cold, you may pot them and keep them all the year. To preſerue red Roſe leaues. TAke of the leaues of the faireſt buds halfe a pound, ſift them clean from ſeeds, then take a quart of faire water, and put it in a earthen pipkin, and ſet it ouer the fire vntill it bee ſcalding hot, and then take a good many of other red Roſe leaues, and put them into the ſcalding water, vntill they begin to looke white, and then ſtraine them, and thus do vntill the water looke very red: then take a pound of refined ſugar, and beat it fine, and put it into the liquor with halfe a pound of Roſe leaues, and let them ſeeth together till they bee ynough, the which to know is by taking ſome of them vp in a ſpoone, as you doe your Cherries, and ſo when as they be thorow cold, put them vp, and keepe them very cloſe. 8. To preserve red Rose petals. Take half a pound of petals from the fairest buds, sift them clean from any pollen and anthers then take a quart of fair water and put it into an earthern pipkin* and set it over the fire until it is scalding hot, and then take a good many other rose petals and put them into the scalding water until they begin to look white, and then strain them, and continue doing this until the water looks very red. Then take a pound of refined sugar, and beat it until fine, and put it into the liquor with half a pound of rose petals, and let them boil together until they are sufficiently cooked, which you know is by taking them up in a spoon, as you do your Cherries, and so, when they are completely cold, pot them up and keep them tightly covered. To preſerue Oranges and Lymonds. TAke your Oranges and Lymonds large and well coloured, and take a raſpe of ſteele, and raſpe the outward rind from them, then lay them in water three dayes and three nightes, then boyle them tender and ſhift them in the boyling to take away their bitterneſſe, and when they bee boyled tenderly, take two pound of sugar clarified with a pint of water, and when your ſyrope is made, and betwixt hot and cold, put in your Lymonds and Oranges, and there let them bee infuſed all night, the next morning let them boyle two or three walmes in your Syrope, let them not boyle too long in the ſugar, becauſe the rinds will be tough, take your Lymonds out and boyle your Syrope thicker, and ſo when it is colde, put them vp and keepe them all the yeare. 9. To preserve Oranges and Lemons. Take your oranges and lemons, being large and well coloured, and take a steel rasp and rasp the outward rind from them, then lay them in water for three days and three nights, then boil them until tender and shift them in the boiling to take away their bitterness, and when they are boiled until tender, take two pounds of clarified sugar with a pint of water, and when your syrup is made, and between hot and cold, put int your lemons and oranges and there let them be infused all night. The next morning, let them boil two or three fumings* in your syrup. Do not boil them too long in the sugar, because the rinds will be tough, take your lemons out and boil your syrup thicker, and when it is cold, pot them and keep them all the year. To preſerue Quinces. TAke your Quinces two pound, & core them, & then perboyle them, & pil off the outtermoſt white skin, and then weigh them, and put them into claryfied ſugar one pound, and then boyle them cloſly couered vpon a very gentle fire, putting vnto them a ſticke or two of good Cynnamon, cut into ſmall pieces, and ſo ſtirre them continually that they may be well coloured on euery side: and when the ſyrop is come to the height of a perfect gelly, take them off the fire, and ſo keepe them, for the higher your ſyrope is, the better will your Quinces keepe. 10. To preserve Qinces. Take two poounds of Quinces, and core them, and then parboyle them, and peel off the outermost white skin, and then weight them, and put them into one pound of clarified sugar, and then boil them closely covered upon a very gentle fire, putting to them a stick or two of good cinnamon, cut into small pieces, and so stir them continually that they may be well coloured on every side. And when the syrup is boiled to a perfect jelly, take them off the fire and so keep them, for the thicker your syrup is, the better will your Quinces keep. To preſerue Peaches. TAke a pound of your fayreſt and beſt coloured Peaches, and with a wet linnen cloth wipe of the white hoare of them, then perboyle them in halfe a pint of white wine, and a pint and a halfe of running water, and being perboyled, pill off the white skin of them, and then weigh them; take to your pound of Peaches, three quarters of a pound of refined ſugar, and diſſolue it in a quarter of a pint of white wine, and boyle it almoſt to the height of a Syrope, and then put in your Peaches, and let them boyle in the Syrope a quarter of an houre or more if neede ſhould require, and then put them vp, and keepe them all the yeare. 11. To preserve peaches. Take a pound of your fairest and best-coloured Peaches, and with a wet linnen cloth wipe off the white hoar from them, then parboil them in half a pint of white wine, and a pint and a half of running water, and being parboiled peel off their white skin and then weigh them. Take to your pound of peaches three quarters of a pound of refined sugar, and dissolve it in a quarter of a pint of white wine, and boil it almost to the height of a syrup, and then put in your peaches, and let them boil in the syrup a quarter of an hour or more if need should requre. And then pot them up and keep them all the year. To preſerue Eringus Rootes. TAke your Eringus Rootes fayre, and not knottie one pound, and waſh them cleane, and when they be waſhed, ſet them on the fire, and boyle them very tender, pill off the outermoſt skinne of them, but ſee you breake them not, and as you pare them put them into cold water, and let them remaine there till all be finiſhed, and then you muſt take to euery pound of Rootes, three quarters of a pound of clarified ſugar, and boyle it almoſt vnto the height of a ſyrope, and then put in your rootes, but looke that they boyle very gently together, with as little ſtirring as may bee for feare of breaking, vntill they be ynough: and when they bee cold, put them vp, and ſo keepe them. 12. To preserve Eringo* Roots. Take a pound of eringo roots, that are straight and not knotty and wash them clean, and when they are washed, set them on the fire, and boil them very tender. Peel off the outermost skin from them, but be sure that you do not break them, and as you pare them put them into cold water, and let them remain there until all are done, and then you must take to every pound of roots, three qarters of a pound of clarified sugar, and boil it almos unto the height of a syrup, and then put in your roots, but ensure that they boil very gently together, wit has little stirring as you can, for frar of breaking [them], until they are [done] enough. And when they are cold, pot them and so keep the. To preſerue Barberies. TAke your Barberies very faire and well coloured, and picke out euery ſtone of them, and then weigh them, and to euery ounce of Barberies, you muſt take three ounces of hard ſugar, and with halfe an ounce of the pulpe of Barberies, and one ounce of red Roſe water, you muſt diſolue your ſuger: and then boyle it to a ſyrope, being ſo boyled, put in your Barberies, and let them boyle a quarter of an houre, and then take them vp, and as ſoone as they begin to waxe coole, put them vp, and they will keepe their colour all the yeare. 13. To preserve Barberries. Take your barberries, very fair and well-coloured, and pick out every stone from them, and then weigh them, and to every ounce of Barberries, you must take three ounces of hard sugar, and with half an ounce of the pulp of Barberries, and one ounce of red rose water, you must dissolve your sugar; and then boil it to a syrup, being so boiled, put in your Barberries, and let them boil a quarter of an hour, and then take then pout, and as soon as they begin to wax cool, put them up, and they will keep their colour all the year. To preſerue Goos-berries. TAke of your large Berries, but not thoroughly ripe, and picke off all the ſtaulkes from them, and wash them cleane, take a pound of them, and ſet them on the fire, till they bee hot, and then take them off, and let the liquor run from them, then take ten ounces of hard ſugar, and foure ounces of ſuger Candie, and clarify it with a pint of water and the white of an egge, and boyle it to a thicke Syrope, and then put in your Goos-berries, and let them boyle one walme or two, and ſo betwixt hot and cold, put them vp, & keepe them all the yeare. 14. To preserve Gooseberries. Take large berries that are not thoroughly ripe, and pick off all the stalks from them, and wash then clean, take a pound of them, and set then on the fire until they are hot, and then take them off, and let the liquor run from them, then take ten ounces of hard sugar, and four ounces of sugar candy, and clarify it with a pint of water and the white of an egg, and boil it to a thick syrup, and then put in your gooseberries and let them boil one fuming or two, and so betwext hot and bold, pot them up, and keep them all the year. To preſerue Damſins. TAke of your Damſins large and well coloured, but not thorough ripe, for then they will breake, and picke them cleane and wipe them one by one, then weigh them, and to euery pound of damſins, you muſt take a pound of Barbery ſugar white & good, & diſſolued in halfe a pint or more of water, and boyle it almoſt to the height of a Syrope, and then put in your Damſins, keeping them with continuall ſcumming, and ſtirring, and that with a ſiluer ſpoone, and ſo let them boyle vntill they be ynough vpon a gentle fire, and when they be ynough, take them vp, & keepe them all the yeare. 15. To preserve Damsons. Take large and well-coloured Damsons that are not thoroughly ripe (for then they will break), and pick them clean and wipe them one by bone, then weigh them, and to every pound of damsons, you must take a pound of Barbary sugar, white and good, and dissolved in half a pint or more of water, and boil int almost to the height of a Syrup, and then put in your damsons, keeping them with continual scumming, and stirring, and that with a silver spoon, and so let them boil until they are done dufficiently upon a genle fire, and when they are done sufficiently, take then pout, and keep them all the year. To preserue Raſpiſes. TAke of your fayrest and well coloured Raſpiſes, and picke of their ſtaulkes very cleane, then wash them, but in any case ſee that you bruiſe them not: then weigh them, and to euery pound of Raſpiſes you must take ſixe ounces of hard ſugar, and ſixe ounces of Sugar-candy, & clarifie it with halfe a pint of faire water, and foure ounces of iuyce of Raſpiſes, being clarified, boyle it to a weake Syrope, and then put in your Raſpiſes, ſtirring them vp and down, and ſo let them boyle vntill they bee ynough: That is, vſing them as your Cherries, and ſo may you keep them all the yeare. 16. To preserve Raspberries. Take your fairest and [most] well-colured raspberries and pick off their stalks very cleanly, then wash them; but in any case see the you do not bruise them: then weight then, and to every pound of raspberries you must take six ounces of hard sugar, and six ounces of sugar-candy, and clarify it with half a pint of fair water, and four ounces of raspberry juice. Once clarified, boil it to a weak syrup, and then put in your raspberries, stirring them up and down, and so let them boil until they are sufficiently [done]. That is, preparing them as your cherries, and so you may keep them all the year. To preſerue Enula Campana rootes. TAke of your Enula Campana rootes, & waſh them, ſcrape them verie cleane, and cut them thin vnto the pith, the length of your little fingar, and as you cut them, put them into water, and let them lie in water thirtie dayes, ſhifting them twiſe euery day to take away their bitternes, weigh them, and to euery pound of rootes, you muſt take xij. ounces of clarified sugar, firſt boyling your rootes as tender as a Chickin, and then put them into your clarified ſugar, and let them boyle vpon a gentle fire, vntill they be ynough: and ſo let them ſtand off the fire a good while, and betwixt hot and cold put them vp to your vſe. 17. To preserve Elcampane roots. Take you Elcampane roots, and wash them, scrape them very clean, and cut them down to the pith, the length of your little finger, and as you cut them, put them into water, and let them lie in water thirty days, shifting them twice every day to take away their bitterness. Weight them, and to every pound of roots, you must take 12 ounces of clarified sugar, first boiling your roots as tender as chicken and then put them into your clarified sugar, and let them boil upon a gentle fire until they are sufficiently cooked. And so let them stand off the fire a good while, and [when they are] between hot and cold pot them up for your use. To preſerue Saterion Rootes. TAke your Saterion Rootes, and picke out the faire ones, & keepe them by themſelues, then wash them, and boyle them vpon a gentle fire, as tender as a quodling, then take them off, and pare off the blackest skinne of them, and put them as you pare them into faire water, and ſo let them remaine one night and then weigh them, and to euery pound of rootes, you muſt take xj. ounces of clarified ſugar, and boyle it almoſt to the height of a ſyrope, and then put in your rootes, but take heede they boile not too long, for then they will grow hard and tough, and therefore when they bee boyled ynough, take them off, and ſet them a cooling, and ſo keepe them according to the reſt. 18. To preserve Orchid* Roots. Take your saterion [orchid] roots and pick out the fair ones and keep them by themselves, then wash them and boil them upon a gentle fire, as tender as a codling, then take them off and pare off the blackest skin from then, and put them as you pare them into fair water, and so let them remain one night and then weight them, and to every pound of roots, you must take 11 ounces of clarified sugar, and boil it almost to the height of a syrup, and then put in your roots, but take heed they do not boil too long, for then they will grow hard and tough, and therefore when they are boiled sufficiently, take them off, and set them to cool, and so keep them according to the rest. Heere endeth the Preſeruatiues. Here ends [the section on] Preserves.

Notes:
[*] This is a quince paste, alos spelled quiddony, condiniak, it is the Portuguese anticedent of all marmalades.
[*] This is another of the recipes from this book that has made it into Martha Washington's cookbook. There ther is an addition to the recipe which notes that one should proceed after the apricots are first pared and stoned.
[*] These are peaches grafted onto a quince rootstock, also known as melocoton (Melum cotoneum).
[*] This is an apple grafted onto a citron or lemon tree.
[*] The original word here is walme which is derived from the Dutch walmen (to fume), which means, in this context, to boil until there is a thick cloud of steam.
[*] A pipkin is an earthenware cooking pot used for cooking over direct heat from coals or a wood fire. It has a handle and three feet. Late medieval and postmedieval pipkins had a hollow handle in order to insert a stick in it for manipulation. (for more information and picture see the Pipkin information page).
[*] Eringo roots, are the roots of the sea holly, Eryngium maritimum which was frequently candied as a sweetmeat and they were believed to be an aphrodisiac. This is becoming increasingly uncommon on our sea-shores, so I would not recommend that you use this recipe on any specimens you find. However, if you live on the sea-shore (or even inland in a sandy area) you can cultivate this pretty, if prickly, plant.
[*] The original word here is saterion (also known as satyrion) which is a general name given to serveral species of orchids with edible roots or tubers. Most orchids are far too rare to be harvested these days, and the only orchid that is typically sold commercially is Orchis mascula (early purple orchid) which gives us salep powder used in making drinks and ice-creams.

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