Kajmak is a traditional Serbian recipe for a modern method of making kajmak unripened cheese from a blend of whole milk and cream. The full recipe is presented here and I hope you enjoy this classic Serbian version of: Kajmak.
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Kajmak is a Serbian cheese traditionally made from freshly milked, raw cow’s milk. The milk is gently heated in a wide, shallow pan until it reaches a boil, then moved to the warm side of a wood stove where it rests at 80°C for about two hours. After that, it’s left to cool down slowly to room temperature.
As the milk heats, the fat begins to rise to the surface. The warmth causes the fat globules to float up, some water to evaporate, and parts of the fat to melt into creamy butterfat. During this time, some of the milk proteins coagulate and form a thin film, to which the fat clings.
After resting for 12 to 24 hours, a thick, creamy layer of clotted cream forms on top of the milk. This layer is then gently skimmed off and placed into a wooden bucket, with a bit of salt sprinkled between each layer to help preserve it.
The whole process can be repeated three to four times with the same batch of milk or with new batches over the following days; each time adding a fresh layer of kajmak to the bucket. The leftover milk doesn’t go to waste—it’s saved for drinking, making cottage cheese or used in cooking.
Once enough kajmak has been collected, it’s stored in a cool, dark place. Over the next few days or weeks, it slowly ripens in the wooden bucket, developing a more aromatic and deeper flavour with time.
Unfortunately, unless you’re on a farm unpasteurised milk (raw milk) is very hard to source. But you can still prepare kajmak at home using pasteurised (but unhomogenised) whole milk and pasteurised (but unhomogenised) double cream. The following recipe will yield about 400g of kajmak.
Ingredients:
1l whole milk
1l double cream
salt (between 1.5% and 2% of the total kajmak weight [so about 6g])
Method:
First round of kajmak making:
Combine the milk and double cream into a wide, shallow baking tin (or cocotte [a shallow cast iron casserole). Stir well to ensure the cream is fully blended with the milk.
Slowly heat the milk and cream mixture over low heat until it just starts to boil. Don’t stir — it’s important to let a layer form on top. You don’t want a full boil, just a gentle simmer with small bubbles forming under the surface. Once you see that, let it slowly simmer for a few minutes and then turn off the heat.
Let the pan sit in a warm spot on the side for about an hour. If you notice it starting to cool down too much, you can gently warm it up again, but don’t let it boil.
Cover the pan with a clean kitchen towel (make sure it doesn’t touch the surface of the milk) and let it cool down slowly to room temperature. Once it’s fully cooled, place it in the fridge overnight, or for at least a few hours (ideally at least 12 hours).
Gently skim off the layer of kajmak that has formed on top of the milk. I’ve found that it’s easier to handle if you cut it into smaller pieces before lifting it off.
Depending on how thick and firm you want your kajmak to be, you can strain each layer before transferring it to a bowl. I usually don’t strain it, since I prefer my kajmak to be softer and milder—and the salt helps pull out excess moisture over time.
When adding the first layer to a bowl or container (a wooden or earthenware pot is ideal, but a glass jar will do at a pinch), sprinkle a little salt over each layer before adding the next one. Each layer should be about as thick as the milk fat film that formed—don’t pack it on too thick.Also don’t be tempted to stir the layers together.
For the Second Round of Kajmak Making:
Once again, slowly heat the milk and cream, and gently bring it to a boil. Turn off the heat and repeat the whole process. You’ll notice this time the layer of kajmak on top might be a bit thinner, but still enough to collect. Just like before, keep adding the new layers to your container, sprinkling a little salt between each one. Again, don’t be tempted to mix the layers together.
Finally, the Third Round of Kajmak Making:
Repeat the whole process again, just like before. You can stop here, as you may be in the land of diminishing returns, but if you’re using good homemade milk (especially Jersey cow milk) and high-quality double cream, you can likely go for a fourth round. You’ll get a few more tablespoons of nice, creamy kajmak.
Fresh kajmak is soft and mild. Aged kajmak develops a stronger flavor and a firmer texture. Let it ripen in the fridge or a cold pantry for several days to weeks. The leftover milk can be chilled and served as a drink. It’s also good for baking and for using to cook liver in.
