To make very good wigs is a traditional British recipe, based on Hannah Glasse's recipe of 1747, for a classic light rich glazed bun made from a sweet yeasted flour, egg and milk dough with plenty of butter an spices that is the forerunner of modern teacakes. The full recipe is presented here and I hope you enjoy this classic British version of: To make very good wigs.
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To make very good wigs.
TAKE a quarter of a peck of fineſt flour, rub it into three quarters of a pound of freſh butter till it is like grated bread, ſomething more than half a pound of ſugar, half a nutmeg, half a race of ginger grated, three eggs, yolks and whites beat very well, and put to them half a pint of thick ale yeaſt, three or four ſpoonfuls of ſack, make a hole in the flour, and pour in your yeaſt and eggs, as much milk, juſt warm, as will make it into a light paſte. Let it ſtand before the fire to riſe half an hour, then make it into a dozen and a half wigs, waſh them over with egg juſt as they go into the oven. A quick oven and half an hour will bake them.
Modern Redaction
Wigs (also known as whigs) are rich, sweet, yeasted buns containing plenty of butter and represent some of the earliest versions of what we would call 'teacakes' (though they contain no fruit). Often they were served dusted with plenty of powdered sugar and thus had the appearance of powdered wigs. Or at least, this is what the Georgians thought. Wigs have a much more ancient history. They go back to the middle ages in fact, when the baker would take fine wheaten bread dough, slap it as a round onto the work surface before slicing it across and across again to form four wedges, the 'whigs'. By the seventeenth century, where light breakfasts served with coffee or tea became the fashion these light buns served warm and buttered were ideal early morning fare. These are richer than the more typical wigs as they contain eggs and they are spiced.
Pour the water into a small bowl. Add a pinch of sugar and the yeast then whisk to combine. Cover with a cloth and set aside in a warm place for about 15 minutes, or until thick and frothy.
Sift the flour into a bowl. Add the diced butter and rub this into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the sugar, nutmeg and ginger then stir to combine.
Beat the eggs in a bowl then work in the yeast mixture and the sack. Form a well in the centre of the flour mix and add the egg mixture then stir to combine. To this work in just enough lukewarm milk to bring the mixture together as a light dough.
Turn the dough onto a floured surface and knead for 10 minutes. Shape into a ball, place in a bowl, cover with a damp cloth and set aside in a warm place to rise for about 50 minutes, or until doubled in volume.
After this time, knock the dough back and divide into eighteen equal pieces. Shape these into buns and arrange them on greased baking trays. Brush the tops with egg wash then place in an oven pre-heated to 200°C and bake for about 25 minutes, or until well risen, cooked through and golden brown.
