Mushroom Catsup is a traditional British recipe, based on Eliza Acton's recipe of 1845, for a classic Victorian store sauce of a mushroom juice base that's thickened by boiling and flavoured with black pepper and mace. The full recipe is presented here and I hope you enjoy this classic British version of: Mushroom Catsup.
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This is a traditional British recipe redacted from Eliza Acton's 1845 volume Modern Cookery, the first classic Victorian cookbook.
Original Recipe
MUSHROOM CATSUP.
Receipt:—Break up small into a deep earthen pan, two gallons of large ripe mushroom-flaps, and strew amongst them three quarters of a pound of salt, reserving the larger portion of it for the top. Let them remain two days, and stir them gently with a wooden spoon often during the time ; then turn them into a large stewpan or enamelled saucepan, heat them slowly, and simmer them for fifteen or twenty minutes. Strain the liquor closely from them without pressure ; strain and measure it ; put it into a very clean stewpan, and boil it quickly until it is reduced nearly half. For every quart allow half an ounce of black peppercorns and a drachm of mace ; or, instead of the pepper, a quarter of a teaspoonful (ten grains) of good cayenne; pour the catsup into a clean jug or jar, lay a folded cloth over it, and keep it in a cool place until the following day; pour it gently from the sediment, put into small bottles, cork them well, and resin them down. A tablespoonful of salad oil may be poured into each bottle before it is corked, the better to exclude the air from the catsup.
Mushrooms, 2 gallons; salt, 3/4 lb.; to macerate three or four days. To each quart of liquor, 1/2 oz. black pepper, or quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne ; and 1 drachm of mace : to be reduced nearly half.
Obs. 1.—Catsup made thus will not be too salt, nor will the flavour of the mushrooms be overpowered by that of the spices ; or which a larger quantity, and a greater variety, can be used at will.
We can, however, answer for the excellence of the present receipt from long experience of it. When the catsup is boiled down quite early in the day, it may be bottled in the same night : it is necessary only, that it should be perfectly cold before it is done.
Obs. 2.—When the mushrooms are crushed, or mashed, as some authors direct, the liquor will necessarily be very thick ; it is better to proceed as above, and then to boil the liquor which may afterwards be extracted from the mushrooms by pressure, with the sediment of the catsup, and sufficient cloves, pepper, allspice and ginger, to flavour it highly : this second catsup will be found very useful to mix with common thickened sauces, hashes, and stews.
Modern Redaction
Ingredients:
9l mature mushroom caps
340g sea salt
For each 1l of Mushroom Liquor:
15g freshly-ground black pepper (or 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper)
4g ground mace
Method:
Remove any stalks from the mushrooms and wipe them clean. Break the mushroom caps up into small pieces then arrange them in a glass or earthenware bowl of vessel, strewing the salt between each layer as you add them (ensure that you reserve the greater portion of the salt to strew over the top).
Cover with a cloth or a sheet of clingfilm (plastic wrap) and set aside to brine for two days. During this time stir the mixture frequently with a wooden spoon. After this time, turn the mixture into a large stockpot or stewpan and gently bring to a simmer. Continue simmering for 15 minutes then take off the heat and pour into a fine-meshed sieve to allow the liquid to strain off (do not press down on the mushroom pieces during this time).
When all the liquid has been strained off measure the volume then pour into a clean saucepan, bring to a boil and cook until the volume has reduced by half. For every litre of the liquid add 15g black pepper (or 1/4 tsp cayenne pepper) and 4g ground mace. Boil again for a few minutes then take off the heat.
Pour into a lipped jar, allow to cool, cover with clingfilm (plastic wrap) and set aside for 24 hours. After this time, pour the catsup into bottles (be sure to leave the sediment behind in the jug). Stopper securely then process in a boiling water bath for 40 minutes before storing.
